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1 ...

THE

LAST OF THE ARCTIC VOYAGES.

THE

LAST OF THE AHCTIC VOYAGES

BEING A NARRATIVE OF

THE EXPEDITION IN H.M.S. ASSISTANCE,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF

CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B.,

IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, DURING THE
TEARS 1852-53-54.

NOTES ON THE NATURAL HISTORY,

SIR JOHN RICHARDSON, PROFESSOR OWEN, THOMAS BELL,
J. W. SALTER, AND LOVELL REEVE.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

unficr tijt Suttjoriig of Hjc ILorts Commissioners of tt)c 'Sltniraltj).

LONDON :

LOVELL REEVE, 5, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN.

1855.

TOIIN EmVAHD TATLOH, ITINTKB,
LITTLE QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN IIELDS,

TO

REAR-ADMIRAL SIR FRANCIS BEAUFORT, K.C.B.

F.R.S., F.G.S., F.R.A.S., ETC.,
THE HYDROGRAPHER OF THE ADMIRALTY,

UNDEE WHOSE

GENEBOUS SYMPATHY AND UNFLINCHING PATRIOTISM
THE VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS ENGAGED IN SEARCH OF

SIR JOHN FRANKLIN AND HIS GALLANT ASSOCIATES

HAVE BEEN CHIEFLY' PLANNED AND EXECUTED,

jig Narratiije

OP

THE LAST OF THE AECTIC VOYAGES

is (BY PERMISSION)

WITH FEELINGS OF RESPECT AND GRATITUDE

DEDICATED
BY HIS VERY' FAITHFUL FRIEND AND ADMIRER,

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

THE details of Arctic Exploration, including wintering
and sledge-travelling, having been so fully described by
preceding voyagers, my object in presenting to the public
the following narrative has been rather to place on re-
cord an account of the Expedition of H.M.S. Assistance,
as being ' The Last of the Arctic Voyages' undertaken
by this country in search of the lost Franklin, and as
being that which penetrated up Wellington Channel to
the extreme limits of navigation. The Title of the work
may appear open to objection, but taking into account
the dates of original Orders, and those in force in April,
1854, it will be apparent that the final command of the
British Naval Expedition within the Arctic Seas was
vested in me. That I conceived aright the intent of
my Instructions, the probabilities attending the safety
of other branches not acting immediately under my con-
trol, has been sufficiently verified by the safe return of
all engaged, to this country.

Recent accounts affording the satisfactory intelligence

VI PREFACE.

of the release of the American Expedition adds anothet
proof of the uncertainty of the navigation even of the
mouth of Lancaster Sound, which was found late in
August to be completely barred by ice; and consequently
Captain Hartstein was unable to place the monument to
Captain Franklin on Beechey Island. With such facts
before us, we cannot but rejoice that no vessels and
crews were left, to distract the feelings of relatives nor
uselessly to exhaust the revenues of the country.

The system of Arctic travel by sledges over vast dis-
tances, and the powers of men in carrying out labours
under which the quadruped, taking man- against horse-
power, would succumb, present a new feature as com-
pared with the labours of the lamented Parry and his
associates. True it is that the qualities of the professed
seaman find but small scope in this narrative; but the
exertions of those who did venture upon travel offers
matter for reflection on the powers of men in every stage
of action where their services may be required, be the
enemy frost, fire, patient endurance of monotonous la-
bour, or battle.

The value of the seaman I mean the disciplined man
in carrying out the service here recorded, entailing
questions even of existence if they faltered or failed in
strength, has not, I fear, been sufficiently estimated by
those who merely read of the exploits of the sledge tra-
vellers ; nor can my pen do justice to their labours, to
the passive endurance, the high discipline, which cha-
racterized their performance, only to be sustained on the

PREFACE. Vll

homeward route under the conviction that failure would
entail the most cruel death.

Unwittingly we allot the credit to the officers; but, as
one of those travellers who entered most fully into the
feelings of the men, their habits and prejudices, and
free from the killing labour of the drag-rope, my duty
compelling me to stop labour when I perhaps felt quite
able to endure more, I do conscientiously assert that the
greatest credit is due to the fine moral crew which it
was my good fortune to command, and to return to this
country without even the threat of the lash. What has
been their reward ? The excitement of war possibly has
blinded their countrymen to their deserts ; or Arctic
service, now that search has terminated, is eclipsed by
labour in the trenches.

Thus much then for Arctic service. Next will be
found matters connected with science, which, although
treated of in the early history which broke ground
through Lancaster Sound in 1818-19-20, still left us
in doubt as to the general laws which prevailed over a
series of years, indeed did not afford any decided data
on which argument could be founded, as to the mean
temperatures of months or seasons, nor of the ratio in
which the freezing of the winter ice covering those seas
proceeds. Nor do I pretend to have determined these
questions ; but merely in producing possibly the most
perfect collection of such records, and, as an observer on
the spot, furnishing such ideas as forced themselves on
my mind, afford to those more deeply versed in meteoro-

Vlll PREFACE.

logical questions data on which they may build more
reliable theories than prevailed previous to this Expe-
dition.

Another question, and one not unattended by oppor-
tunity for cavil, may be found in the measures which
were adopted by me for the preservation of the health of
my crew, as well as the comfort between decks ; but on
all these matters I think that figures and facts must
drown all cavil, and that in any future fittings the sys-
tem advocated and proved by me must have force in
a sanitary point of view. The deaths which occurred
were clearly those which might have been avoided by a
more strict attention to the selection of the individuals ;
none could be classed as the result of Arctic travel or
exposure.

Other matters, embracing periodic returns of gales,
bad weather, and unaccountable disruption of the ice
after winter had apparently set its seal on the season,
offer subjects for interesting discussion. The effect of
contrary tides, meeting as they do in this country about
Dover, point out unmistakably the reason that Welling-
ton Channel remains sealed at the very moment that
nature appears to promise its free navigation.

One only question remains in mystery, that is the final
report as to the fate of the gallant Sir John Franklin and
his companions. I have treated that with the same con-
fidence which induced me to assert, in August, 1852,
" that he never passed northerly or westerly of Beechey
Island ;" and, until positive intelligence to the contrary

PREFACE. IX

reaches us, must yet believe that his parties divided as I
have imagined.

Although I have not in these pages asserted any claim
to the participation in the solution of the Northern
Passage to the Pacific, still any geographer will readily
understand that the continuous frozen sea, traced by the
officers under my command, in 1853, proves a water
communication through Wellington Channel, round
Parry Islands, to the position attained by Captain
M'Clure; and that in 1854 our sledge-parties had pe-
netrated to the southern extreme of Prince of Wales
Strait, perfecting the labours of Dease and Simpson.

I am indebted to Sir John Richardson, Professor
Owen, Professor Bell, Mr. Salter, Mr. Glaisher, and Mr.
Reeve, for their valuable contributions to the Natural
History portion of the second volume. Each statement
offered is supported by documents, accessible to any
who may be desirous of further evidence.

To those who have seconded and supported me in my
duties, whether named or otherwise, my thanks are due ;
and I thus express myself because I know it will be
acceptable to those who honestly performed their duty :
" Palrnam qui meruit ferat."

EDWARD BELCHER.

London, November 1, 1855.

CONTENTS

OF VOL. I.

PEELIMINAET.

PAGE

\dmiralty Instructions. List of Officers. The 'North Star.'
Boat Department. Supplies. Instruments. Azimuth Tables.
Library and Printing Press. Ships Unclocked. Leave Wool-
wich. Visited by the Admiralty. Quit the Noro .... 1

CHAPTEE I.

At Sea. Reach the Orkneys. Stromness. Scarcity of Stock.
Departure of the 'Basilisk' and 'Desperate.' Enter Baffin's
Bay. Whalefish Islands. Reception by Esquimaux. Licvely.
Disasters. Moored at Lievely. Survey of the Port. Quit
Lievely. Search for Coal. Quit the Waigat 25

CHAPTER II.

Anchor at Upernavik. The Squadron adrift. Dangers nume-
rous. Prospects of the Voyage. Browne Islands. Prepara-
tion for Flitting. The ' Resolute' nipped. Docking. Blast-
ing Ice. Wreck of the ' Regalia.' Meet a Whaler. Irregu-
larities of the Crew. Melville Bay. Floe Law. Capture a
Bear. Cape York ... 42

CHAPTER III.

Native Dogs. Red Snow. Cape Dudley Digges. Game. Cape
\Varrender. Beechey Island. Rejoined by Captain Kellett.
Cape Riley. Find Pieces of Whale. Parting Ceremonies.
Wellington Channel. Queen's Channel. Count Percy.
Winter Quarters .... 65

Xll CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE IV.

I'A'.F

Frozen in. Sledge Travelling. -Walrus Shot. Habits of the
Walrus. Village Point. Esquimaux Hut. Deceived by Mi-
rage. Tent Equipage. The Sentinel. Ice Accumulations.
An Intruder. Exinouth Island. Eejoining of the Party. Nip
and Piling Ice.- Quit Exmouth Island. North Cornwall . 90

CHAPTER V.

Retreat. Land's End of North Cornwall. Pell Point. Table
Island. Chased by a Walrus. Sledge breaks in. Danger
from the Ice. Observatory erected. Second Autumnal Expe-
dition. Traces of Gold. Gale and Disruption of Ice. Oomiak
constructed. Walrus food. The ' Eider-duck.' Gain the
Land-ice. Reach Point Repose. Return to the Ship . . .113

CHAPTER VI.

The 'Assistance.' Winter Fittings. Moisture between Decks.
Meteorological Investigations. Tide Gauge. Anatomical
Shrimps. Washhouse. Thoughts on Arctic Fittings. Ter-
raced Levels. Effects of Tidal Action. Tidal Fissures. Ex-
periments on Ice. Last View of the Sun. Her Majesty's
Arctic Theatre. A Gale. The Observatory. A Snow-storm 137

CHAPTER VII.

Transit Telescope. Extremes of Cold. Effects of the Gale.
Remarks on Equipment. Sensations of Cold.- Paraselena.
Schools Established. Society of Loyal Arctic Engineers.
Deflections of the Magnetometer. Experiments on Freezing.
Ice Crystals. The Aurora 159

CHAPTER VIII.

Short Days. Minimum Temperatures. Warmth of Vessels. A
She-Bear. Preparations for Travel. Theatricals. Shortest
Day. Christmas Ode. Christmas Fare. Depth of Winter.
The New Year. -Comparison of Thermometers. Freezing
Mercury. Range of Extreme Cold. Freezing Ale. Alcohol
at a low Temperature 181

CONTENTS. Xlii

CHAPTEE IX.

PAGE

Rise of Temperature. A Bear shot. Termination of Darkness.
Ke-appearance of the Sun. Death of a Marine. Cold Period
of March. Table of Temperatures. A She-Bear and her Cubs.

Sledges inspected. Feet Wrappers. Departure of the
Sledges. Beacons. Cairns. Parhelia. Inland Excursion.
Wavy lee. Cooking Apparatus. Lamps. Return of Depot
Division .... 211

CHAPTER X.

The Cairn. Anticipations. South-west Expedition. Tidal Mo-
tions. Return of Mr. Loney. Dog Killed. Letters from
Pulleii. North-east Expedition . Tent Arrangements . A
Cold Bath. The First Depot. A Wolf. Princess Royal Is-
land. Tidal Rents. Snow Blindness. Mount Parker. A
Whale. Hamilton Depot . 240

CHAPTER XI.

Inconvenient elevation. Cape Disraeli. Imbedded Whale.
Departure of Mr. Allard. Determination of speed. Strait
discovered. Progress arrested by the Pack. Snow Crystals.
Discover open water. Overland march. Progress barred.
Fossil Station. Deep Soundings. Pack Ice. A hollow Cairn.

Cape Disappointment. Wellington Channel. Apparent
Graves. Pitch Mount. Bears 264

CHAPTER XII.

Hamilton Depot. Mount Parker. Patches of Water. Musk-
oxen. Dr. Lyall and Mr. Allard rejoin. Preparations for
-carcli Northwards. Lost Dog. Freaks of Refraction. West-
rrii Island. Ett'ect of Sun's Heat. Buckingham Island. Seal-
holes. Bear-hunt. Recovery of Sledge. Watercourses.
Rounded Pebbles. Surface Disturbances. Cape Ogle.
Water-fowl. Lemmings. Star Bluff. Return to the Ship . 297

CHAPTER XIII.

( >|irii Water. Despatch from Richards. Notice left by M'Clure.
Stores covered with Snow. Brewing. Mustard and Cress.

XIV CONTENTS.

TAGE

Return of Richards. Movements of Western Division.
Game killed. Canal completed. Cairn on Barrow Island.
Osborn rejoins. Mount Acland. Assistance Spit. Visit of
Pullen. Port Refuge . . .... 329

CHAPTER XIV.

First symptom of Winter. Alarming Discovery. Suspicions
awakened. Escape from a Nip. Recent fragment of a Ship.
Drift-wood. Party for Beechey Island. Despatch of Lieu-
tenant Osborn. W r ant of Steam-power. Unsafe position.
Aid sent to Lieutenant Osborn. Inland Lakes. Pishing. A
Spar found. Trunk of a Tree. Disturbance of the Ice.
Fragments of a Ship 367

XV

(GLOSSARY OF ARCTIC TERMS.

r, Ice, i\ round bar of iron twice bent like a pot-hook : the end
to which thf rope is bent is cut short off and bent suddenly back :
l lie other is tapered after the bend, which is at an angle of 60 to
the body or shank. A hole being- cut in the ice by an axe fashioned
for this purpose, similar to half a pickaxe, this hook serves to se-
cure the vessel to the in-.
.l.re. Ice, as above described.

Barber is properly the condensation of vapour rising from ice, the re-
sult of freezing ; also breath condensed.

Bay Ice, that which freezes continuously on the surface, and derives its
name probably from its forming more rapidly in bays, or spots
sheltered from the breeze.

Beset, the approach of floating ice on all sides, leaving no opening for
advance or retreat, and leaving the vessel unmanageable.

Bight, any hollow, bay of ice, land, etc.

Berg. See Iceberg.

Blasting: this operation is generally performed by cutting a hole
through the ice of sufficient bore to admit of a canister of six
inches diameter, containing powder, being passed through; a
flexible fuse of sufficient length to burn three minutes being
lighted, affords time to permit the men to recede from danger.

Bore .- to bore through the pack ; the forcing a vessel through loose,
movable pack under canvas or steam, with the chances of taking
advantage of cracks or openings.

Brash, comminuted ice.

Buckle, bending or arching of the ice upwards, preceding a nip.

XVI GLOSSARY OF ARCTIC TERMS.

Calf, a huge splinter splitting off from a berg, or the berg detaching
itself from the main mass on which it formed ; sometimes misre-
presented by a shelf, or loose piece, which is driven from under
the floe, and rises suddenly to the surface, damaging ship or boat.

Clear Water, no ice obstructing navigation.

Crow's-nest, a watch-box constructed at the topgallantniast-head, to
protect the man looking out for whales or ice from the inclemency
of the weather ; sitting comfortably ensconced in the Crow's-nest,
the Ice-master pilots the vessel through the best lanes or open
places in the ice.

Curl, the bending over or disruption of the ice at the point of resist-
ance, causing it to pile slab over slab, or throw over the commi-
nuted bits.

Cutting, out or in, performed by sawiug cauals, out of which the ice is
lifted above, or passed beneath, the floe, enabling the ship to ad-
vance towards open water.

Dock : this is simply an opening cut out of the floe into which the ship
is warped for security against threatened pressure, from extensive
floes coming into opposition. It is, as reason will point out, at
right angles to any extensive crack or open water. A " natural
dock" is frequently afforded by some deep gap, out of which, at
some of these convulsions, the ice has floated. Any extensive
floe falling across the mouth of such an opening would naturally
close it, expending its force on the projecting irregularities.

Field Ice, any great extent of smooth ice, the result of water frozen in
a quiescent condition, and of equal thickness throughout.

Floe may be any portion of a field of ice disconnected, as floe pieces.
Bay floe, or Land floe, would be that attached to the laud. Say
floe is also considered as bay ice of the last season, now become
floe of the present.

Hummocks, lumps of ice, generally bits of pack frozen together, and
snow covered during winter.

Ice. See Bay Ice, Field Ice, Floe, Pack, Pancake Ice.
Ice Anclior. See Anchor.
Ice Axe. See Axe.

Iceberg : this term is frequently misapplied ; properly it belongs onl\
to huge mountains of ice entirely of freshwater formation, which

GLOSSARY OF ARCTIC TERMS. XV11

by constant increase from the summer thaws become at length
too heavy to be supported by cohesion to the land mass, and then
cttlre, or split off from the glacier. They are termed by the
GreeiJand authorities (vide Graah, p. 24) Ice Blinks.
lee Blink : this term, as understood by our Greenland whalers, does
not bear the same meaning as that given by the Danes. With us
"blink" indicates the reflection in the atmosphere over the object.
The term in the English dictionary defines it, " to glisten, show
white," etc. If the atmosphere immediately over the object be
charged with vapour, its image may be perfectly reflected or re-
presented, or, when very distant, a whitish auroral divergence of
rays constitutes the blink, seen long before the object itself can be
distinguished ; it is comparative with our " loom of land."
Ice Chisels, large socket chisels, into which poles are inserted, used
to cut holes in the ice.

Ice Hooks, or Claics, similar to timber claws ; a double hook, with
rectangular pointed claws to hold on by abrupt ice or cracks.

Ice Master, or Ice Quartermaster, a whaling captain or mate, selected
for his experience in the whale-fishery, to afford advice to the offi-
cers commanding. He usually pilots the vessel either from the
Crow's-nest, or spike plank, when amongst the ice.

Ice Plak, or Spike Plank, a platform projecting across the vessel
seven or eight feet above deck and beyond the sides, to enable
the pilot to run from side to side, to pilot the vessel clear of ice.

Ice Sates, huge saws made from half-inch plates of iron, and varying
in length from ten to twenty-four feet.

Ice Sludge, smaller comminuted ice, or bay ice broken up by the
wind.

Lane, any open cracks, or separations of floe, offering navigation.
Lead, similar to Lane.

Nip : when two floes are in motion and approaching each other, the
residt generally is a grinding action in passing or until their im-
petus is expended, which destroys the opposed surfaces, raising
long ridges of curled or thrown-up ice. When a vessel unhappily
has not time to dock, or becomes entrapped between the opposed
bodies, she becomes nipped, or, in many rases, the Hoc, which is
weakest, rises over and overwhelms her entirely, to use the
whaler's term, "walks clean over her."

VOL. I. b

XV111 GLOSSARY OF ARCTIC TERMS.

Old fee, that of previous seasons.

Pack is that collection of broken floe which, huddled together under
pressure, is constantly varying in its position ; it cannot be dealt
with nor can it be travelled over until cemented together by freez-
ing ; it has no limit, it may cover a mile or hundreds of miles, as
in Baffin's Bay. Simply it is any loose ice packed into a space
before vacant.

Pancake Ice, that which results from snow falling into the sea with-
out thawing, and by the action of the waves driven into pancake
forms, which offer no solid obstruction, but nevertheless hamper
a vessel more than small ice.

Reeving, following up various labyrinthine or angular channels until
the vessel reaches open water; as, "reeve the pack."

Run, when the ice is suddenly impelled by an unaccountable, fitful,
rushing motion.

Sailing, loose ice relieved from pressure, which admits of picking a
way through the weakest parts.

Sliearinij, or Lappiiig : this applies more peculiarly to young or thin
ice with boats, one plate overlapping another where a boat has
made an extensive crack. Where boats have teen thus destroyed
the crews have rarely escaped, the ice being too weak to bear, and
the plates overlapping those attempting to swim.

Shelf, or Tongue frequently, on the meeting of adverse floes, a smaller
interposing floe-piece is forced under, and, cohering or freezing to
that above, presents, below water, a tongue or shelf, which annoys
the keel of a vessel, or, breaking off, comes up as a "calf" with
great violence.

Sludge, comminuted ice.

Smoke, or Vapour, a peculiar kind of vapour, the natural result of
the conversion of water into ice, which is constantly supposed to
indicate lakes or open water in an unfrozen state.

FFater Sky : this evidently is connected with smoke or vapour, and is
the reflected colour of the blue sea in the atmosphere or vapour
arising from the wanner sea ; it generally exhibits a dark, dull,
neutral tint, which is never seen to the eye, at least of an intelli-
gent ice-master, unless ictttcr be under it. This is peculiarly the
case in Melville Bay.

id/i in/ fcf, that immediately formed, or of the present season.

LIST

CHARTS, PLATES, AND WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

s 1. Discoveries in the Arctic Sea, 181954

ix2. Plan of the Port of Lievely

-3. Plan of Northumberland Sound

4. Plan of the Fossiliferous Oval

Pates.

1. Arctic Squadron quitting the Nore

ix" 2. Extraordinary Dyke, Point Hogarth

ix 3. Novel Ferry

.- 4. Exmouth Island

5. The ' Hamilton' under canvas

6. Duck-shooting in Oomiak sledge .

7. Snow wreath, Northumberland Sound
,/ 8. Paraselena . ...

9. Alarum Tide-gauge

10. Departure of Sledges .

1 1 . Entrance of Cardigan Strait .

12. Blown out of Winter Quarters

13. Crystal Palace Winter Quarters

14. Upper Deck Fittings

15. Cenotaph at Beechey Island .
^16. Direction Signals

1 7 . Thermometer buried in snow

^-18. Plan of Oomiak sledge

Vol. I. In pocket.

ib.

Page 90
Vol. II. 391

Vol. I., Frontispiece.
Page 85

>i 93
105
119
133
155
169
141
243
271

Vol. II., Frontispiece.

Page 67

291

231

Vol. I. 350

Vol. II. 173

Vol. I. 131

XX LIST OF CHARTS, ETC.

19 to 22. Illustrations of Snow Crystals . Vol. II. Appendix.

23 to 30. Illustrations of Fish ...

31. Bones of Ichthyosaurus . . .
' 32 and 33. Illustrations of Shells

34 and 35. Illustrations of Crustacea . .

36. Illustrations of Carboniferous Fossils .

EJEocto lEngtafomfls.

Esquimaux huts . . . . Vol. I. Page 95

Wooden flaying-knife . . ,,97

Ice cracks .... ,,109

Effects of tidal motion . . . . 149

Aneroid iucrusted with snow . ,,157

Effects of gale on snow pillars . . 162

Hard-lined clouds ... ,,169

Mercurio-spirit thermometer ,, 207

Thermometer vane ...... 212

Feet- wrappers 221

Thennometer block .... ,, ,, 223

Parhelia . . 227

Rig of sledges .... 229

Upsetting of sledges and old ice . . ,,231

Princess Royal Island . . ,,258

Hamilton Depot . 263

Fossil station . . . 272

Hollow cairn ..... 280

Graves . .... ,,285

Peculiar Cairn . ,, ,,291

Freaks of Refraction . . . . 303

Star Bluff, Cape Ekins 325

Driven aground Run of ice . Vol.11. ,, 57

Coast-line fissures . . 73

Prismatic Cross ... ,,92

THE

LAST OF THE ARCTIC VOYAGES,

"UNDER THE COMMAND OF

CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B.

PRELIMINARY.

Admiralty Instructions. List of Officers. The ' North Star.' Boat
Department . Supplies. Instruments. Azimuth Tables. Library
and Printing Press. Ships Undocked. Leave Woolwich. Visited
by the Admiralty. Quit the Nore.

HER Majesty's Government having deemed it necessary
to prosecute the further search for the 'Erebus' and
' Terror,' which left England in the month of May, 1845,
as well as for any traces of Sir John Franklin or his fol-
lowers, my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty were
pleased to entrust me with the command of the Expedi-
tion, the entire objects of which w r ill be nearly apparent
from the following Instructions :

ORDERS. No. I.

By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Ad-
miral of tfie United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
etc. etc.

1. Having appointed you to the command of the Expedition (to
consist of the ships named in the margin*) preparing for the further

* Assistance, Resolute, Pioneer, Intrepid, North Star.
VOL. I. B

2 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. [1852.

search for Sir John Franklin, you are, whenever such ships shal] be in
all respects ready to put to sea and proceeding down Channel or " north
about," make the best of your way to Barrow Strait, calling at Disco
(if in your way) for such replenishments as the place affords, and for
a supply of dogs for sledging purposes.

2. We have entrusted you with this command in the full persuasion
of your thorough acquaintance with its obligations, and of your judg-
ment and ability to meet them.

3. We do not therefore consider it necessary to encumber you with
minute instructions for your guidance at each step of your proceedings ;
but furnishing you with papers which point out the views of the Ad-
miralty, as successive expeditions have been despatched from this coun-
try, and those also relative to the difficulties occurring to oppose those
views, we leave it to you to decide as the case shall present itself.

4. We deem it right, however, that a certain course of proceedings
should be pointed out to you; and adopting the recommendation of the
Committee appointed in October, ]S51, to inquire and report upon a
previous expedition, the plan of future operations there proposed is to
be considered as the basis of your proceedings. By that plan, Beechey
Island is the point indicated as the basis of your operations, and you
are to consider it as the grand rendezvous to which you are to push
forward, there to establish the 'North Star' as a general depot.

5. Arrived at this point, two great objects will engage your atten-
tion :

1st. The endeavouring to pass up Wellington Channel with one

sailing-vessel and one steamer.
2nd. The advance of a similar force towards Melville Island.

6. The object of the first of these expeditions will be, the endeavour
to recover those traces of Sir John Franklin which ceased at Cape
Bowden, to the north of Beechey Island ; and to follow up such traces
if they should be found. The object of the other expedition will be, to
deposit, if possible, at Winter Harbour, Melville Island, or failing that,
at Byam Martin Island, a supply of provisions, fuel, and clothing, for
any parties that might reach such positions from Captain Collinson's
or Commander M'Clure's ships.

7. As regards the first-named Expedition, and the possible con-
tingency of coming upon Sir John Franklin's track, we cannot too
strongly impress upon you the necessity of your establishing along your
line of route cacketfes of provisions sufficient to supply your crews
and those of the missing ships, should any accident happen to your own

185.2.] ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 3

vessels, and render it necessary for you to return without them to the
general rendezvous at Beechey Island ; and you will be most careful
along the line of such route, as well as in every other direction you may
have to take, to avail yourself of every remarkable promontory, point
of land, or other distinctive locality, to deposit exact notices of your
condition and intended proceedings ; and you are to give positive orders
that these notices or records are to be deposited ten feet true, north of
the cairn or staff, and likewise beneath or in the cairn itself.

8. With regard to the Expedition to be despatched towards Melville
Island, it is scarcely to be contemplated that, under the most favour-
able circumstances, more coidd be done in the first season than to reach
that point ; and the officer in charge of that service will of course have
to take into account the having to winter in that quarter.

9. His earliest attention in that case, in the ensuing Spring, will be,
1st, the depositing such supplies at Melville Island as he can spare,

or endeavouring to convey them thither by sledges if he should not
reach the island with his ships ; and 2nd, the detaching travelling par-
ties in a westerly direction for the combined purpose of a search for
traces of Sir John Franklin, and of depositing notices in conspicuous
situations as to where the supplies are left, but being at the same time
strictly enjoined to return to their ships before the usual period of the
breaking up of the ice, in order that such ships may return to their ren-
dezvous at Beechey Island, or otherwise prepare for quitting Lancaster
Sound to return to England, according as the supplies on board of his
ships and the length of time consumed in the above service shall re-
quire.

10. And here we think it necessary more particularly to call your
attention to the instructions to be given by you to the officer charged
with this branch of the Expedition ; for whilst there is a possibility of
your calculating on an early return of such officer from Melville Island
in the summer of 1853, and of his being able to afford you support in
any particular direction, it is, on the other hand, not improbable, that
from a prolonged detention to the westward, it may be his bounden duty
not to hazard a further stay in those seas, but to make the best of his
way home ; in which ease he must endeavour to communicate with the
rendezvous at Beechey Island before finally quitting Barrow's Strait,
in order to obtain information of the other ships, and to deposit re-
cords of his proceedings.

11. He should therefore be made to understand the nature of the
responsibility that devolves upon him, both as to the execution of his

4 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. [1852.

orders in the first instance, and determining the point at which the
power of compliance with those orders ceases.

12. It is of course possible that seasons siich as were experienced
by the Expedition in 1850-51 may again occur to prevent a passage by
ships up Wellington Channel or to the west of Griffith Island ; and,
under such circumstances it will be for you to consider how far it might
serve any useful pui*pose to undertake an examination by travelling par-
ties from Baring Bay or Prince Alfred Bay, in the direction of Jones's
Sound ; in addition to those which it will be your duty to send out to
the north and north-west, for traces of Sir John Franklin, in the direc-
tion of Queen's Channel.

13. Our instructions therefore are without reference to the possible
circumstance of records still being found at Beechey Island or elsewhere
(and for which it will be your duty to search), at a certain distance
from the respective cairns, where it has been stated it was Sir John
Franklin's custom to deposit them ;* and if by such records it shoidd
prove that Sir John Franklin proceeded to the eastward out of Lan-
caster Sound, after he wintered at Beechey Island in 1845-46, you will
still continue to push forward two of your ships towards Melville Island,
as already directed by us, and with the other two you are to act as cir-
cumstances may render necessary, depending on the information which
those records may convey. And adverting to the report of two ships
having been seen on the ice in the North Atlantic in the spring of
1851, we think it expedient to draw your attention to this subject, that
you may adopt such steps on your way from Baffin Bay, with reference
to search and inquiry on the shores of Davis Straits, as you may con-
sider most advisable under the circumstances above stated, and the
information the records may convey.

14. You are aware of the deposit of stores and provisions at Port
Leopold, and of the steam-launch left there by Sir James Ross : you
are at liberty to employ that vessel in any way that her services may be
made available ; but with reference to the store of provisions at Port
Leopold, and also those for one hundred men which were landed by Mr.
Saunders on an island in Navy Board Inlet, it is our directions that
such provisions and stores shall on no account be touched by any of
the vessels under your orders, unless compelled to do so bv absolute
necessity.

* The piece of tin or copper, said by Adam Beck to have been
dropped from a staff, should also be looked for. See Evidence before
the Arctic Committee.

1852.] ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 5

15. We have furnished you with copies of these instructions, which
you are to deliver to the Captain and Officers in command of vessels
under your orders. And we deem it necessary that you should be
directed to communicate freely anA unreservedly with your second in
command and the officers in charge of the other ships, on all points
connected with the Expedition, keeping them acquainted with your
views and intentions, that, in case of an accident happening to your-
self, or a separation of the ships, these officers may be fully aware of
the course of proceedings intended to be adopted by you ; and when
the ships are separated from you for the purpose of carrying out our
orders, the same unreserved intercourse and communication is to be
maintained between the officers in command of the respective ships.

16. You are no doubt aware of the ' Prince Albert,' private vessel,
being engaged in a like search in the Arctic Seas ; you are to afford
that vessel every aid and assistance, in the event of falling in with her,
but you are in no way to interfere with her orders or take her under
your charge.

17. The various logs and private journals, with drawings, plans, etc.,
are to be sent to this office on the return of the Expedition. And you
are to be careful that, from the date of your parting company with the
ships sent to assist in towing you, your own letters to our Secretary,
together with those of the officers addressing you, are duly numbered
as well as dated ; and you are invariably, should any opportunity offer,
to leave letters for us at such places as Cape Warrender, Ponds Bay,
etc., provided no delay be incurred thereby.

18. Your ships have been fully equipped for the service they are
going upon, and it has been our desire that you should be provided with
even- means and resource that might be made available. We have an
entire reliance on the best use and application of those means on your
part, and we have equal confidence in the care to be exercised by you
for those employed under your orders ; but there is one object which in
the exercise of that care will naturally engage your constant attention,
and that is, the safe return of your party to this country.

19. We are sensible however that notwithstanding a wish to keep
this part of your duty prominently in mind, yet that an ardent desire
to accomplish the object of your mission, added to a generous sympathy
for your missing countrymen, may prevail in some degree to carry you
beyond the limits of a cautious prudence.

20. You are therefore distinctly to understand our directions to be,
that the several ships under your orders shall each be on its way home,

6 ADMIEALTY INSTRUCTIONS. [1852.

and to the eastward of Barrow Strait, whenever their stock of provision
shall have been reduced to twelve months' full allowance ; and com-
mending you, and those employed under you, to the providence of God,
we trust that success may crown your efforts, and that you may be the
means of affording succour to those of our countrymen whose absence
we have so long deplored.

Given under our hands this 16th day of April, 1852,

NORTHUMBERLAND.
HYDE PARKER.
PHIPPS HORNBY.
THOS. HERBERT.

To SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B., ALEX. MILNE.

Captain of Her Majesty's Skip Assistance,
at Greenhitke.

By Command of their Lordships,

W. A. B. HAMILTON.

No. II.
By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral

of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, etc.
We have to inform you that we have despatched her Majesty's steam-
vessel ' Phoenix,' under the command of Commander Inglefield, with
the ' Breadalbane' transport, to Beechey Island, for the purpose of re-
plenishing the ships under your command with stores and provisions,
in case your supplies may have been so far reduced by the depot
formed at Melville Island and the various cachettes on the coast as to
prevent you from continuing further search for Sir John Franklin
during this season and the winter of 1853-54, if the information you
may have gained determine you to continue such further search.

2. In communicating with you on the subject of your former orders
and the service on which you are employed, we are aware how im-
possible it is for us to send out any definite instructions with reference
to your future proceedings, when we are ignorant of the position in
which you may now be placed, or whether any traces of Sir John
Franklin's Expedition may have been found during last Autumn or the
Spring of this year, and what steps you may have considered it most
expedient to adopt. But if no trace of the missing ships have been
found beyond the Wellington Channel, and if it should appear that by

1852.] ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 7

the extended search you may have been enabled to make in that
quarter, that the missing ships did not proceed in that direction, and
if Captain Kellett should have reached Melville Island, as directed by
his instructions, and his land expeditious should also have failed in
finding any such trace, it does not appear to us that there is any other
direction in which a prospect of their discovery can be expected.
Every accessible part of the shores of the Polar Seas west of Lancaster
Sound will have been visited without finding a trace of the missing
ships, except their former station at Beechey Island in 1845 and 18-16.
In such a contingency as this, and if such should likewise be your
opinion after mature consideration with the senior officers under your
command, there appears no other course left but to abandon all further
search.

3. But in case you should have found any trace of the Expedition,
it will be your duty to follow up that trace. In doing this you must
exercise extreme caution, so as not to lose your means of communi-
cation with Beechey Island ; nor are you to incur any hopeless risk by
proceeding beyond reasonable limits, for the safety of your own cre\\ s
must be your first care. We place every confidence in your zeal and
intelligence, and feel assured that you will act with sound judgment in
whatever situation you may be placed ; we therefore leave it to you
either to abandon the Expedition altogether, if you are of opinion that
no further steps can be practicably taken, or to send such of the ships
to England as you may not require ; transmitting by them to our
Secretary not only a full account of all your proceedings, but charts
of all your discoveries, and keeping us informed of your views and
intentions, so that, if it should be necessaiy, every requisite aid may be
given you in the Summer of 1854.

4. Before your final departure from the Polar Seas, should you
think proper to adopt that course, there appears one very important
subject which will require your serious consideration ; and that is the
present position of the ships under the command of Captain Collinson
and Commander M'Clure, which entered the ice to the north-east of
Point Barrow (Behring Straits), the latter in August, 1850, and the
former in July, 1851. These officers with their respective crews may
have been compelled by circumstances to abandon their ships. If such
should be the case, they may probably attempt to reach Melville Island ;
and having had this in view when you left England, we directed in
your instructions that a depot of provisions and other stores should
be formed at that island. From this position they will no doubt

8 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. [1852.

endeavour to make their way to Beeckey Island or Port Leopold. It
will therefore be your duty, before returning to England, to be fully
satisfied that a proper depot of coals, provisions, etc. had been formed
at Melville Island by Captain Kellett, and that clear information had
also been left there that similar supplies would be found at Beechey
Island.

5. This depot on Beechey Island is to consist of a full store of coal,
provisions, clothes, and other stores, and you will take care to have
it most carefully secured against the depredations of bears or other
animals ; you are also to leave one of your ships there, with or without
a crew, as you may deem most advisable, so that Captain Collinson or
Commander M'Clure's parties may find every possible assistance which
they may require, and have the means at their command of returning
to England ; but should you find it to be practicable to place the ship,
or a depot of stores, in a more advanced position, between Melville
and Beechey Islands, it might be expedient to do so. This is a point
on which you can form a better judgment than we can. Our most
anxious wish is to establish the best possible arrangement with the
view of giving succour and support to the crews of those ships, should
they be compelled to seek refuge in the direction we have pointed out.

6. Having expressed these general views, which will require your
careful consideration, we leave it to you to take such steps as you may
consider most expedient for meeting the circumstances of the case.

7. On the arrival of the transport at Beechey Island, you are im-
mediately to hasten her discharge, and despatch her to England with
the least possible delay ; and you are not to detain the ' Phoenix '
longer than may be necessary, or to risk her being frozen in, but to
send her also to England with intelligence of your proceedings, ex-
changing any of her men, and sending invalids, etc.

Given under our hands this llth day of May, 1853,

(Signed) J. E. G. GRAHAM.

HYDE PARKER.
M. F. F. BERKELEY.
E. S. DTJNDAS.

To SIR E. BELCHEK, C.B., ALES. MILNE.

Captain of Her Majesty's Ship Assistance,

Arctic Seas.
By Command of their Lordships,

(Signed) E. OSBORNE.

1852.] ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. <J

No. III.

Instructions to Captain Sir Eilicard Belcker, C.B., or the Senior
Officer of Hi-r Majesty's S/iijm at Beecltey hlnml.

Admiralty, April 28, 1854.
SIR,

My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty have directed Her
Majesty's ships Phoenix and Talbot, under the orders of Captain Ingle-
field, to proceed with provisions and stores to Beeehey Island, for the
purpose of replenishing the ships and depots under your orders ; and
I am commanded by their Lordships to acquaint you that on the return
of the ' Phoenix ' from Beeehey Island last year, they had the satisfac-
tion of hearing of the safe arrival of Her Majesty's ship Investigator,
under the command of Captain M'Clure, at Banks Land, having com-
pleted the discovery of the North- West Passage, though unhappily,
without discovering traces of Sir John Franklin, and that part of the
crew had been enabled to reach Captain Kellett's station at Melville
Island. By despatches which they received from Behring Straits they
have information that in August, 1851, Captain Collinsou, in Her
Majesty's ship Enterprise passed the entrance of the Colville River;
and their Lordships trust by the reports he may have obtained from the
natives of Prince Albert's Land, as well as from the records deposited
by Captain M'Clure on his passage along that shore, that he may also
have been enabled to reach some harbour on Banks Land, from whence
he has made known his position either to Captain M'Clure or Captain
Kellett.

Their Lordships have desired me to direct your special attention to
the measures they now require to be adopted for at once withdrawing,
if possible, the whole of the force now employed in the search of Sir
J. Franklin from the Polar Seas; for effecting this object they refrain
from issuing any positive instructions how you are to act, or what
steps you are to take, as they ai'e aware you must be entirely guided
by the position of the ships, and those varying circumstances which in
that region must influence your operations ; but their Lordships' view
may be stated generally as follows :

] . If the crews of the ' Enterprise' and ' Investigator' are at Banks
Land, they must abandon their ships, and every endeavour should be
made to get them to Beeehey Island, that they may return to Euo-land.
If this has already been effected, and Captain Kellett with his ships
has returned from Melville Island, yon are immediately to proceed to
with the whole, of the ships and their crews, abandoning all

10 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. [1852.

further search for the missing Expedition, unless any circumstances
(on consultation with the senior officers of Her Majesty's ships) should
induce you to believe that your remaining out another year would tend
to clear up the fate of our missing countrymen. But if Captain Kellett
has been unable to move from his position at Melville Island, it may
be necessary to give orders to him to abandon the ' Resolute' and
' Intrepid,' and secure his retreat to Beechey Island ; but as this can-
not be accomplished this year, you need not detain any officers or men
who may have already reached Beechey Island, but send them to
England forthwith.

2. Should no tidings have been heard of Captain Collinson in her
Majesty's ship Enterprise, it becomes absolutely necessary to provide
for his safety. For this purpose the Melville Island depot must be
replenished with provisions and stores ; and it will be necessary for
a ship and steam-tender to remain there, also the ' North Star ' or
' Talbot,' with a tender, at Beechey Island, and at those stations every-
thing which can add to the health and comfort of the crews shoidd be
deposited ; and having done this, it does not appear to their Lordships
to be necessary that any of the other ships shoidd remain another year
in the Polar Sea, unless, as before stated, you consider further search
to be prudent and necessary.

These are the views of their Lordships : their great object being to
recall, with the least possible delay, the whole of the ships or crews
named in the margin,* if it can be done ; if not possible to do so, they
leave it to your judgment and discretion to send home such of them
as may not be required, and to adopt those measures which you con-
sider most necessary to ensure the safety of Captain Collinson and his
crew, and their speedy return to England. This, their Lordships are
aware, must depend on the information you may have received from
Melville Island, the position of the respective ships under your orders,
the state of the depots, etc. ; all their Lordships can do is to confide
in your judgment, and they authorize you to take such steps and
give such orders, and to make such exchanges of officers and men, as
you may deem necessary for carrying their wishes into effect.

They trust however Captain Collinson is safe ; and if so, it will be
a source of much satisfaction to them, if during the approaching
Autumn the whole of your ships and crews shall arrive in England.

* Assistance, Pioneer, Resolute, Intrepid, Enterprise, Investigator,
North Star, Phoenix, and Talbot.

1852.] ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 11

On the return of any of the ships to England from Beechey Island,
it is desirable that the coast to the southward of Ponds Bay, namely,
from the River Clyde towards l'apr Y\ alsinghiim, should be examined;
and you are therefore to endeavour, in your instruction to the ships
proceeding to England, to meet this contingency.

In the event of your health rendering it necessary for you to return
to England, and the necessity of a part of the squadron remaining out
another winter, you are to make known to the officer whom you may
appoint to succeed you in command, all your views and arrangements
respecting further proceedings.

Although this country is now at war with Russia, you are clearly to
understand that you are not to commit any hostile act whatever, the
ships under your command having been fitted out for the sole purpose
of aiding those engaged in scientific discoveries ; and it being the esta-
blished practice of all civilized nations te consider vessels so employed
as exempt from the operations of war.

I am, Sir,

Your most humble servant,

R. OSBORNE.

I have used the expression " nearly apparent," but at
the sixth paragraph of these first Instructions it will at
once occur to my readers that my mission was not quite
single. Independent of the leading feature of this search
for Sir John Franklin, two others of Her Majesty's ships,
under the command of Captain Collinson, C.B., and
Commander M'Clure, the 'Enterprise' and 'Investiga-
tor,' were yet to occupy my attention, and that too of
a nature not contemplated, but, to my perception, to in-
crease in interest, as well as importance, with each suc-
ceeding season of my absence from this country ; and
unless recalled by intelligence of their safety, still de-
manding my presence in those regions until every secu-
rity for their comfort and final relief was provided for
by depots of provisions, as well by leaving behind some

12 LIST OF OFFICERS. \Felruary,

vessel of the squadron to await either their arrival or re-
call from England.

Other objects, not enumerated, but clearly understood
by my previous employment, will find their customary
notice, simply observing that, so far as science was con-
cerned, this Expedition was not, when not otherwise
engaged, to neglect its interests.

Fortunately, at the moment that I received my ap-
pointment, on the 10th of February, 1852, my old com-
panions, Captain H. Kellett, C.B., and Commander
Richards, volunteered to support me, the former taking
command of the ' Resolute,' and the latter (third in com-
mand) of my own ship, the ' Assistance.' Commander
M'Clintock, Mr. Loney and Mr. M'Dougall, Masters, had
also served under me, the two latter in the ' Samarang.'
The other officers were appointed, as having volunteered,
and having served in the former Expedition, under my
predecessor, Captain Austin.

It has been customary to annex the names of the
officers engaged in such Expeditions, and I shall there-
fore follow the example, which is simply an extract from
the official ' Navy List :'

ASSISTANCE. RESOLUTE. NORTH STAR.

Captain . . Sir E. Belcher, C.B. H. Kellett, C.B.

Commander G. H. Richards . . F. L. M'Clintockf . W. J. J. Pullen.

Lieutenant. Sherard Osborn* . G. F. Mecham

Walter W. May . B. C. T. Pirn

J. P. Cheyne . . E. V. Hamilton

Master . . J. F. Loney . . . G. F. M'Dougall . T. C. Pullen.

T. Alhml* . . . F. T. Knibbef . . W. ShellabeerJ

Surgeon . David Lyall, M.D. . W.T.Domvilk-,M.D. R. M'Cormick.

* Additional for 'Pioneer' tender. f For 'Intrepid' tender.

\ Second Master.

IS 52.] THE NORTH STAR. 13

ASSISTANCE. KESOLUTE. NORTH STAR.

Mates . . F. B. Herbert . . E. Roche . . . A. H. Alston.
T. B. Grove . . . G. S. Nares
F. W. I'yni (act.) . lions. De Bray.
diit.Sury. J. B. Rii-ards* . . R. C. Scottf . . F.Y.Toms (lent)

F. Y. Toms

Boatswain . Mr. Taylor
Carpenter . Mr. Kerr Deans

Officers and Crews 91 91 40

Includes Ice Quarter-masters, Marines, etc. : Total, 222 ; of
which, each Tender took 30 individuals.

The ' North Star' was added to the Squadron, in con-
sequence of the great difficulty, indeed impossibility, of
the other vessels embarking stores from a transport at
Disco, and the further probability of my not touching at
all on the eastern side of Baffin's Bay. Beyond these
questions she was imperatively necessary as a depot to
fall back upon, should either the northern or western
division meet with accident. Commander Pullen, havino-

O

just returned from his excursion along the northern coast
of America, between Point Barrow and the Mackenzie,
was selected for this command, with a reduced crew,
so as to derive the utmost possible stowage. Having
been already strengthened for former Arctic service, she
was peculiarly adapted for this special depot. But two
clear months, and those at .the most unfavourable season,
intervened for every preparation (the 15th April being
originally determined on as the day of departure).

In as far as the vessels were concerned, they were
supposed, having been superintended by Captain Aus-
tin, to be complete. Indeed, there was no time to make
alteration, if required.

In the Boat department Captain Austin had left me

14 BOAT DEPARTMENT. [February,

little to add, but that little was clue principally to the
kind suggestions of Captain Hamilton, from whom I
obtained a very beautiful model of a flat yawl, which,
under the hands of the famed builder, Mr. Searle, and
the inventor of a light shaving plank one-eighth of an
inch in thickness (Mr. Eorster), produced four very beau-
tiful ice-boats, two of sixteen and two of twenty feet,
the heaviest weighing but 300 Ibs. The heavy lifeboats,
unmanageable in ice, were left behind, the other boats
being more than sufficient to take care of the crews.

In all such expeditions the numberless schemes pro-
posed, and correspondence to be answered, are enough to
occupy the attention most seriously, to the detriment of
public duty, and the inconvenience of being either drawn
into interminable discussion, or the charge of want of
courtesy to those unanswered. To all, who may feel so
offended, I can only plead, " not want of courtesy," but
inability by my own hand. They were answered gene-
rally by dictation.

The provisions, clothing, as well as the selection of the
crews, remained as principal features, to which unremit-
ting attention was necessary.

Every possible facility was afforded by their Lordships'
" special orders," as well as by all their leading officers
in the several departments, so that, if anything went
wrong, I alone must take upon myself the discredit to a
very great extent. Upon the first and vital point, the
provisions, I was immediately in communication with
Captain Milne, and the Comptroller of Victualling, Mr.
Grant ; and after recent exposures on preserved meats,
it became a matter of very serious consideration.

1855.] SUPPLIES. 15

The beef and pork were cured at our naval establish-
ments at Deptford, Haslar, and Plymouth. The prime
pieces alone, free from bone, were selected, and as recent
as the time permitted. At Haslar, under the especial
superintendence of Sir Edward Parry and Sir John
Richardson, our store of pemmican was prepared.

Our other supplies were principally from the firms of
Hogarth, Fortnum and Mason, Gamble, Moir, Moore,
Allsop, Edwards, Masson, Chollet and Co., Fadeuille ;
and to the result of my public reports I must refer these
parties for the general good opinion entertained of their
supplies.

I do not imagine that the reading public will feel any
interest in the account of the general amount of provi-
sions, comforts, etc. embarked; but as I have myself
frequently been disappointed at not finding the list of
extras, and the value assigned to them, I have inserted
such a list in the Appendix, with the collective opinion
thereon.

Among the leading schemes proposed were the bal-
loons used by my predecessor, and blasting by aid of
galvanic agency. In the latter I took peculiar interest,
owing chiefly to the success which attended that mode of
simultaneous explosion on heavy charges at Round Down
Cliff, near Dover, in 1843 (displacing 400,000 cubic
yards by 18,500 Ibs. of powder !). But chamber-practice
and ice-practice are yet to be tested, on which refer to
separate article on Ice-Blasting : Appendix. On this
mode alone we were not dependent, and were also fully
provided with Bickford's match.

From the Ordnance every possible attention was

16 TENDER OF THANKS. [February,

shown by Sir Thomas Hastings ; and at the Royal
Arsenal every portion of our equipment was complete
within the ability of the Storekeeper. But to Colonel
Colquhoun, my old friend and sometime companion, I
feel under great obligation, for his unremitting, untiring
perseverance and ingenuity in suggesting, as a practical
iceman, many little articles of equipment which have
proved eminently valuable. Our cylinders, of copper,
containing twenty pounds of powder, and fitted with
screw stuffing-boxes and galvanized india-rubber packing
for the fuses, were most perfect. Our whale rockets and
tubes, harpoon-guns, etc. all belong to his fertile mind.

To numerous other individuals not filling public situa-
tions our thanks are also due. But as this has been
deemed a scientific expedition in connection with the
great search, and in which I am happy to associate the
names of Kellett, Richards, Pullen, Loney, and M'Dou-
gall, I am sure that they all feel with me, that I do well
to reserve for our especial debt of gratitude that which
is so eminently due to the Hydrographer, Rear-Admiral
Sir Francis Beaufort, for his watchful care over every
public as well as private convenience that might lessen
our difficulties and tend to oiir comfort.

Associated with him, Colonel Sabine, Captain E. John-
son, and Mr. Glaisher, have each rendered their time and
service to the cause. That the great and primary object
of our Expedition could not allow of any delay or de-
viation from our route, it is needless to observe. But
the mind cannot tamely follow the sledge-track, and con-
stantly pore over the weary desert of the floe : it requires
occupation, relaxation, and amusement. Such, science

1852.] INSTRUMENTS. 17

offers. And in the gloom of winter, independent of well-
organized registers of the customary requirements of our
present improved profession, many scraps will be found
worthy of note, and possibly of deeper interest than our
scale of knowledge may possibly at the time deem im-
portant. The record of nonsense can be obliterated, but
the failure to record undeniable facts, only to be witnessed
once in a life, is unpardonable.

The instruments from the Hydrographic Office rested
on my selection from those in store. Several were made
expressly for me, but the deficiency in reliable light alti-
tude and azimuth circles could not be made up. Of
these, at least of two more, I felt the want, even of good
theodolites. Of the artificial black horizons I must say
they were useless untrue : but the entire blame, if any,
rests with me. The five-inch azimuth and altitude, by
Gary, was perfect, and saved many a position. It was
my companion for fifty-two days over very rough ground,
and to the summits of many mountains, without fault or
damage.

In the compass department, the Hydrographer and
Captain Johnson were unremitting in their endeavours
to produce the best travelling instruments, and which
shoidd at the same time occupy the smallest space. In
all this they acted with their customary forethought and
ability; and if the magnetic needle ever was called in
aid, the instruments were good.

But in the Arctic travelling season very seldom was it
used. The sun, the great umpire in all matters of truth,
was not often so long veiled, night or day, but we had his
advice. And here, indeed, the labour and forethought

VOL. i. c

18 AZIMUTH TABLES.

of the Hyclrographer furnished the doubtful traveller,
dubious of his variation, an unerring Mentor. This was
a portable tabular compilation of azimuthal bearings of
the sun, at intervals of twenty minutes, between the lati-
tudes of 70 and 81 north, embracing the travelling
period between March and September inclusive.

I should make but a feeble attempt to explain these
matters to the general reader. Professional men need
none. The words of our Hydrographer are too perfect,
and they will speak for themselves.

" In the neighbourhood of the magnetic poles the com-
pass becomes so sluggish as to be of little use, either to
the mariner in his boat or to the traveller on his sledge,
and both are therefore obliged to depend, for the direction
of their course, on the bearing of the sun. But in high
latitudes the path of the sun is inclined at so small an
angle to the horizon, and its rise or fall is therefore so
slow, that it is difficult to determine its azimuth or bear-
ing by a rough altitude measured from an horizon en-
cumbered with ice ; and a more careful observation, by
reflection, would not only consume much valuable time,
but would be impracticable in the earlier months, from
the severity of the weather, which would render it dan-
gerous to expose the hands.

" Assuming, therefore, that at every station where the
boat is moored, or the sledge party is encamped, the
apparent time has been correctly ascertained, and the
pocket watches duly set ; then will the following tables,
by showing the true bearing of the sun, enable the leader
to adopt what course he pleases, and moreover to adhere
to it, by repeatedly looking at his watch and estimating

1852.] LIBRARY AND PRINTING PRESS. 19

the angle between the sun and his track, which opera-
tions require no unnecessary exposure.

" The tables are computed for the zone comprised by
the parallels of 70 and 81 north, and extend from the
beginning of March to the end of September the sea-
son most likely for exploring expeditions ; but should
their use be required before or after those periods, the
intelligent traveller can readily estimate the allowance
he should make, by comparing the differences in the
preceding and subsequent columns, and by observing
the changes produced by the varying latitudes ; though
the reader will perceive, that even a material error in the
assumed latitude would be scarcely appreciable in taking
up a line of march." F. S.

This merely evinces the scientific interest in the matter.
The compasses themselves were enclosed in neat leathern
cases, suspended by a belt (spare pins and needles in-
cluded), and the magnetic needle itself so adapted to the
card that at noon the compass could be set by the sun to
tell the true meridian; and thus, until a fresh opportu-
nity was afforded of obtaining further proof of the time
by that cheering luminary, the traveller was relieved of
the perplexities attending the correction for variations '
amounting to almost half the circle in extent, 142 to 156.

The libraries furnished to each vessel contained all
that was asked, which, aided by private collections, left
nothing to be wished for in that department. A very
excellent printing press, with full type, was supplied to
the leading commands, and was found useful.

In the comforts and extras for the sick, and for the
complete equipment for the collection and preservation

c 2

20 SHIPS UNDOCKED. \_March,

of rare objects, and all matters connected with natural
history, our acknowledgments are specially due to Sir
William Burnett, the Director- General of the Medical
Department of the Navy.

The tents, sledges, and general equipments, as on the
last expedition, were furnished by the Dockyard at Wool-
wich. Gutta-percha cases of all descriptions were pro-
vided, but none succeeded : they will not stand intense
or moderate cold ; but some adaptation of this, or Jeffries'
marine glue, would, I am satisfied, under judicious ar-
rangement, prove highly important.

On the 19th of March the ship left the dry dock, ma-
king a most ominous lurch, and was secured alongside
the Dockyard. On the 25th, hauled off to the ' Charger'
hulk, and nothing appeared likely to detain us beyond
the contemplated day, April 15.

On the 10th of April all the vessels were in the stream,
and constantly crowded by inquiring and interested vi-
sitors. On the Monday the magnetic instruments were
embarked, and a series of very valuable thermometers,
specially prepared, from Greenwich and Kew Obser-
vatories. Tuesday and Wednesday were exciting days :
the presentation of twenty-five silken wrought banners
for the sledges, by ladies deeply interested in our suc-
cess, and our leave-taking from these warmly esteemed
friends and their relatives, will never be effaced from
our memories.

To the Lords of the Admiralty generally, to Captain
Hamilton, Captain Milne, and Mr. Grant, I personally
owe my acknowledgments, for the kindness and facilities
afforded me throughout the equipment of this Expedition.

1852.] THE SHIPS LEAVE WOOLWICH. 21

To Mr. Barrow all are deeply indebted for his un-
deviating kindness, anticipating wants which in our ex-
cited preparation we had but little leisure to dream of,
and for promises fully realized during our absence.

Under such conditions, like spoiled children, with
everything our own way with even the weather favour-
ing every motion of our equipment behold the Expedi-
tion ready, if need be, at the appointed hour !

I have an almost superstitious dread of indecision, and
do not consider men liable to it fit for any species of
trust. And under such feelings, on the 15th of April,
much to my relief, the Squadron slipped their fasts to
the hulks to which they had been secured, and, towed by
the steam-tugs, proceeded down the river.

It was a deeply interesting scene in every sense.
Groups might be noticed on the Dockyard walls, scanning
with eager interest for the last signal. Now a white
handkerchief rose and fell with an almost passionate ac-
tion. On board frequently a laced-cap individual might
be noticed intently gazing through a telescope, and sud-
denly holding up the badge of recognition. Often the
wave of the blunt seaman's hand told where his heart
was, "without leave." Fortunately the steam-tug dis-
pensed with any but the sacred duties of the last farewell.
In addition to these interesting matters, the Dockyard
authorities had summoned the workmen to line the walls,
the band striking up ' Should auld laiig syne' and other
appropriate tunes, between the peals of cheers which
kept our crews incessantly engaged, and which were re-
sponded to with equal vigour. This friendly fire was
again taken up by our warm-hearted friends, the True

22 VISITED BY THE ADMIRALTY. [April,

Blues of the Arsenal, and finally by a very unexpected
sally from the Minie Rifle division at the Marshes, who
had advanced to the river-side.

And now all was silent. Deep thought prevailed, and
the fidgety, short walk clearly indicated that some weight
had been removed, and that duty was sought for change.

Shortly after noon the first stage of our eventful
journey was accomplished, and the vessels secured to
their mooring-buoys at Greenhithe.

On the 1 6th the vessels were swung for local attraction
due to the iron on the compasses. My duties carried me
to London. Captain Johnson performed this duty, Cap-
tain Kellett attending to his own ship. The stowage and
iron fittings of the tenders remaining nearly the same,
the tables for those vessels remained unchanged.

The 'North Star,' having been detained by provision still
unstowed, dropped down and joined company. The pow-
der was embarked in rather large quantity for blasting
purposes, and nothing now prevented our proceeding but
final instructions, and the customary visit of the Lords of
the Admiralty, which had already been duly notified.

On Monday, the 19th, the Board, comprising His
Grace the Duke of Northumberland, Rear-Admiral Sir
P. Hornby, Captain Sir T. Herbert, Captain Milne, the
Private Secretary, and Sir B. W. Walker, the Surveyor of
the Navy, inspected the ships, officers, and crews. Privy
Council duties requiring the attendance of the Duke in
town, the Board left rather in haste, leaving me to re-
ceive and entertain Prince D'Aguila, from the Neapo-
litan Court, for which purpose the state barge had been
sent down with Mr. Gore, flag-lieutenant, from Woolwich.

1852.] QUIT GREENHITHE. 23

After His Royal Highness had inspected the vessels, he
returned to London.

On the 20th Commodore Eden arrived with the pay-
clerks, paid the crew up to this date, at which they com-
mence their double pay, and six months' ordinary pay in
advance (two months' being customary). Under ordinary
circumstances, the payment, with such facility to escape,
many having no men-of-war's time, would have been con-
sidered hazardous. We had no such feeling on the whole,
nor were we deceived. A finer body of men never trod
the decks of any of Her Majesty's ships of war. Our
North Sea pilots being embarked the same who took
out Sir John Franklin having been allotted to us I went
to London to receive my final instructions, returning by
eleven o'clock that night, accompanied by a warm-hearted
friend, who had volunteered to see me to the Orkneys,
and be the bearer of our last adieus. Such friends are
not butterflies. My detention to this date was by su-
perior will.

Shortly after four A.M. on the morning of the 21st
we slipped our moorings. The Squadron, towed by
the ' Lightning,' 'African,' and ' Monkey,' and tenders
under steam, quitted Greenhithe before the good people
had time to open their eyes, or think of anything like
cheering. About eight o'clock we sighted the ships at
Sheerness, the ' Ocean' bearing the broad pendant of
Commodore Hope, Admiral the Honourable Josceline
Percy being absent on leave.

About nine o'clock, casting off the steamers, we an-
chored at the Nore, in order to complete the stowage
of the ' North Star,' and to make good certain defects

24 QUIT THE NORE. \April.

caused by the ' Pioneer' running into us. Here we were
joined by the 'Basilisk' and 'Desperate/ reserve war-
steamers, commanded by Commander Gardiner and
Lieutenant Stevens, ordered to accompany us as far as
the 20th meridian west ; the ' African ' to tow for six
days from the Nore.

Commodore Hope came off in the steam-tender
' Sprightly,' and, in order to expedite our supplies, I
accompanied him to the Dockyard, the ' Monkey' and
' African' also running in to coal.

Having paid my respects to the Admiral's lady and
family, and invited them to visit the ship during our de-
tention, her daughters, as well as those of my old friend
Sir Charles and Lady Colville, availed themselves, with
other visitors, of the opportunity.

At three o'clock, our defects having been made good,
we took leave of our friends, the Commodore passing
under the stern of each vessel, giving and receiving in
return our three last and most exciting cheers ; for here
we felt that the final knot was cut which connected us
with civilized England.

Our anchors were tripped, and, towed by our respec-
tive tugs through the lowering mists which hung over
the embouchure of the Thames, we took our last look
at the shores of Kent, and dived to our cabins, to me-
ditate on the great work we had undertaken ; not
in pride of command, but in the feeling that we were
merely following up the clue which others had barely
left us enough to hold on by hardly enough to warp
ahead with.

CHAPTER I.

At Sea. Reach the Orkneys. Stromness. Scarcity of Stock. De-
parture of the 'Basilisk' and ' Desperate. 'Enter Baffin's Bay.
Whalefish Islands. Eeception by Esquimaux. Lievely. Disasters.
Moored at Lievely. Survey of the Port. Quit Lievely. Search
for Coal. Quit the Waigat.

UP to this moment all has gone well. The sun has shed
his cheering ray on all our movements, and not a day's
rain interfered either with our rigging or embarkation
of stores. One cannot but be grateful for all these bene-
fits, and deem them but a prelude, under God's blessing,
to a fortunate termination to our efforts.

In tow of the steam-tugs ' Monkey' and 'African/ and
accompanied by the ' Desperate,' ' Basilisk,' ' Lightning,'
and our steam-tenders ' Pioneer' and ' Intrepid,' we
formed rather an imposing than warlike squadron. The
tide being in our favour, we moved rapidly through the
shoals of the Thames-mouth, and entering the North Sea
soon began to feel the old sensations of being again on
the ocean. The breeze freshening fast, and my instruc-
tions directing the return of the ' Lightning' and ' Monkey'
from the Sunk Light off Harwich, the ' Intrepid' also
having signalled defects in machinery, I determined on

26 REACH THE ORKNEYS. [April,

anchoring for the night, complete ' Desperate' with coal
from ' Monkey,' and despatch the latter vessel to Wool-
wich.

Before daylight, the ' Intrepid' having made good de-
fects, we again moved forward ; the 'Assistance' towed
by the 'Basilisk;' the ' Resolute' by the 'Desperate;'
' North Star' by ' African ;' and ' Lightning,' ' Intrepid,'
and ' Pioneer' under steam ; but the breeze soon render-
ing towing inconvenient, sail was made, and each vessel
moved independently. As the sea rapidly increased, and
would soon render communication unsafe, I despatched
my last communication by the ' Lightning,' directing
her return to Woolwich ; and as the breeze very soon
increased and separated the Squadron, and 'African' did
not rejoin, I imagine that she followed the ' Lightning.'

April 23. About one A.M. we rounded the Dudgeon
Light and steered for Buchanness, where the consorts,
' North Star' excepted, rejoined.

April 25. About three A.M. on the morning of the
25th, the breeze failing, the steamer resumed tow, and
about seven A.M. the ' North Star' was seen under the
high land of Caithness. About seven we took on board
an Orkney pilot, and shortly before noon, under a most
brilliant and cheering sun, not a breeze moving and sea
glassy smooth, we threaded the Orkneys, passing Long
Hope, where I had at first purposed anchoring, and by
noon were safely anchored off the town of Stronmess.
The ' Basilisk' was then sent to aid the ' North Star.'
The remainder of the Squadron gradually dropped in,
and before sunset all were in security, the tenders and
steamers within the inner harbour.

1852.] STROMNESS. 27

This being Sunday, and the inhabitants at church at
the time of our arrival, we were not visited until the
afternoon, when the Custom-house authorities and Dr.
Hamilton came on board, tendering their services.

Understanding from these gentlemen that a vessel
laden with coal on sale was within the harbour, I was
enabled, before the arrival of the steamers, to make
arrangements for their entering at once, to transfer it
more conveniently without further delay or expenditure
of fuel. This, probably, was the first time that the inner
harbour of Stromness bore on its waters four steamers of
war of such length and tonnage.

Unfortunately the Post-office at Kirkwall did not for-
ward our letters, not withstanding that the official envelopes
were addressed to Stromness, possibly, in the expec-
tation that the seekers for them would find their way
thither. In this they were not mistaken, as our younger
men were rather anxious to commence their explorations
and breathe a little pure air, an example which Captain
Kellett and myself soon followed a pied, on the rising
ground in the immediate vicinity. The observations on
the town and scenery are hardly expected in these days,
and amount to nil. Our attention was chiefly directed
to the points and facilities for watering, obtaining the
necessary supplies, and other trivial duties.

Nor was time idly expended on board. We had as
yet had but our first shaking, and it was not long before
niy indefatigable aid, Commander Richards, found stow-
holes for many objects which doubtless puzzled him, and
which probably never before lumbered the quarter-deck
of any vessel bearing a pendant. These comprised heavy

28 SEA-STOCK SCARCE. \April,

cases of concentrated sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), gal-
vanic batteries, balloon gear, mm mult is aliis, which
would probably involve more queries than I would care
to answer. At every step these were really obstructions,
and some were subjects not to be ill-treated with impunity,
even thus far out of Scotland. In the midst of all these
duties, involving almost a restowage of the ship, watering,
coaling, etc., we began to discover that our private stock
of animals and other requisites, involving the comfort of
both inner and outer man, had been most peculiarly over-
looked. The natives, too, had discovered our weakness,
from a certain furor displayed by one or two leading
purchasers, and did not even, while thus patriotically and
philanthropically engaged, fail in forming just estimates
of the contents of our purses, probably understanding
from previous visitors that men-of-war's men are fair
game.

Independent of any such feeling, and setting aside any
presumption that stock here is cheap and easy to be pro-
cured, I would strongly advise my brother officers not to
trust to any such fallacy beyond eggs, milk, and butter.
Animals, ducks, fowls, etc., are not fit to kill, do not live,
and turn out eventually very dear bargains. But this
applies in most minor ports. It is only the practised
stockman who will supply objects fit to eat, or which
will endure the caging on board ships.

Our rambles exhibited to us, or rather to myself, no
improvement since my visit to the Orkneys in 1821, a
private individual, and most warmly and hospitably enter-
tained by some good friends at Kirkwall, whose names
have escaped my memory, but their kindness has not

1852.] SAIL FROM STROMNESS. 29

been forgotten. Possibly they recollect me at the Manse
only as the inquisitive " stone-breaker." I rode over to
Stromncss and back the same evening. To expect hos-
pitality or attention under present circumstances would
be unfair : who could entertain such an army of locusts ?

One of our deserters, or rather an imfortunate middy
whose dreams were more powerful than the cheers at
parting, had now given himself up, having posted and
railed, express, through two parts at least of Great Bri-
tain to overtake us, and crossed by gig from Kirkwall.
As there was no " cheque without leave," no further
questions were asked ; I was only too glad to see him.
By him we received information that the steamer which
brought him to Kirkwall would depart on the next day
evening for Aberdeen.

I had now to lose my kind companion Mr. E. Ray.
We took leave of him on the evening of the 27th, seeing
him off by the mail-cart ; and to his kindness, and in-
terference with the Post-office, I feel that we in a great
measure owe the reception of our letters by our return
officers. He carried with him our final despatches,
with which he would sail at dawn on the morning fol-
lowing for Aberdeen.

April 28. Fortunately we obtained the sun for our
chronometers at two P.M., just as the weather began to
exhibit a suspicious, murky appearance, when the Squa-
dron weighed, cleared the islands, and was once more
on its forward progress. The absence of the 'African'
we now felt seriously ; her services might have proved
important to tow out the ' North Star,' as in this thick
weather one more tug would have kept us securely con-

30 THE BASILISK AND DESPERATE DEPART. \_M(tl/,

nected. We were compelled to lie to and that is, under
tow, a most tedious operation until one of the steamers
could extricate the ' North Star ;' much valuable calm
and offing in this variable climate was thus lost.

Having fairly gained an offing, the ' Basilisk' was al-
lotted to the 'Assistance' and tenders, and the 'Despe-
rate' to the ' Resolute' and ' North Star.' About four
A.M. on the 29th, we passed Cape Wrath lights, and
before nightfall had cleared the northern end of Lewis
Island.

We were now truly at sea. My instructions were ex-
plicitly limited to taking the two steam aids as far as the
longitude of 20 west. It was my intention, on reach-
ing that meridian, to complete the tenders with coal, and
then release them. That the orders were worded so im-
peratively was unfortunate. Had it been simply, not to
carry them beyond their safe means of return, I might
easily have taken the supplies out at an earlier date,
or, at reduced coal, worked a day or more longer, until
smoother water prevailed

Unfortunately this distance was not made good until
Sunday, the 2nd of May, when the labour did not ap-
pear sufficiently imperative to disturb that day of rest ;
but, the breeze suddenly freshening at nightfall, and
towiug-hawsers parting, it became necessary to make
sail independently.

Bad weather continued until the 8th of May, when,
taking advantage of a lull, we communicated with the
steamers, exchanging a marine and taking their to wing-
hawsers. Our despatches were sent by the ' Desperate,'
Lieutenant Stevens, as being more likely, by steam and

1852.] ENTER BAFFIN'S BAY. 31

canvas combined, to reach Plymouth, and, by rail, Lon-
don, earlier than the ' Basilisk,' bound to Portsmouth
with paddles and canvas. Much pleased with the dili-
gence and handling of these vessels by their respective
commanders, we cheered and parted company, thus se-
vering the last link on this side of Greenland.

Shortly after parting with the steamers, we fell in with
a dead whale, and began to experience the customary
visitation of the fish-hunting birds, mollymoks, gulls,
etc., of Greenland. On the 15th of May, being in lati-
tude 57 56' north and longitude 38 26' west, we were
visited by a snow-bunting, and on the 20th noticed the
first iceberg ; but, although we passed between several
small pieces of ice, neither the air nor sea exhibited any
change of temperature.

On the 1st of May we passed Cape Farewell, and on
the 24th were becalmed off Godhavu. The dredge was
sent down and some few shells obtained, but the cod-
fish and halibut, notwithstanding the most enticing baits
were tried, could not be induced to bite. Suddenly a
long rolling swell came in from the south-west, causing
the vessels to pitch very heavily, and, as they rose to the
summit of the wave, exhibiting the land-ice, not before
noticed, as lining the coast-line. The effect was curious,
and not pleasing.

The customary routine of such tedious navigation con-
tinued until the 29th, when we got a fair wind and ran
up to the Whalefish Islands.

As customary in these cases, reference was made to
"the voyages," and to persons on board who had been
here before ; but no one could afford any information

32 WHALEFISH ISLANDS. \May,

calculated to be of use. We were therefore compelled
to grope our way, aided by our dead reckoning.

To the seaman seeking Whalefish Islands nothing
can be more deceitful than the first sight of the group,
when distant about ten miles, and more particularly if
the wind should be light and the sea very smooth, when
probably it would prove glassy calm at the islands. They
would then appear merely like a scattered reef on the
surface of the ocean ; but the mystery is easily dispelled.
If they display a wide extent, you are to the south-west ;
and if you bring them to bear nearly true north, you
must be in the fair way for the entrance, which is by
the south-east end of the southern island. E.N.E. by
compass, they show in the centre of Disco and as one
island.

The two main islands are high, about six hundred
feet, and will exhibit a deep gap between them. It is
in this gap, about half a cable wide, that vessels anchor.
The Danish Establishment is on the southern island,
termed Kron-Prins Island. If the breeze be steady, shave
it on the east, as a rock lies off about a cable's length
north-north-east true, and run for the gap until Boat
Isle is seen midway in the channel ; drop anchor in the
mouth, and veer to secure to either or both shores. Five
of Her Majesty's ships were safely berthed well within
the mouth.

The latitude of Boat Island was determined to be
latitude 68 58' 42" N., longitude 53 13' W., variation
70 46' 39" W.

In Captain Mangles' account I notice that Sir John
Franklin was much in the same dilemma as ourselves ;

1852.] DIRECTIONS FOR WHALEFISH ISLANDS. 33

indeed when I was first informed that they were truly
the Whalefish Islands, I could scarcely credit it. They
did not appear to afford the slightest chance of shelter.

On the other hand, no seaman who has once visited
them, and used his eyes, can for one instant be in doubt.
There are no others to mislead him, if he approaches
them on the proper bearing. Disco may also be in
sight, and the very remarkable mountain over Lievely
Mill, bearing north (true), be an infallible aid. If these
islands should be sought from the northward, bring the
easternmost point of the high eastern island to bear south
true, and run down until you perceive the channel, with
a rock in the centre, between the two highest islands.
Round all rocks easterly, at a good berth, and enter this
channel boldly ; steer for the starboard channel ; pass
Boat Island ; after which run for the port side, to avoid
a rock, close in shore, on the starboard hand ; anchor as
you open the narrows. Bergs sometimes plant them-
selves at the southern mouth of this gully ; it is therefore
safer to be well within, as they ground and may break
your anchor, if you should be just outside the opening.

The moment any vessel is noticed steering for these
islands, the Esquimaux, or " Huskies,"* as the Danes
customarily term them, come off in sufficient numbers
to satisfy yon that you are near the haunts of uncivilized
men, and will afford sufficient information to guide any
stranger to his anchorage. They are all in the pay of,
or dependent on, the Danish Resident there or at Lievely,
and carry on the seal-fishery for the Company's interest.

* " Husky" is their own term. I recollect the chorus to a song at
Kamtchatka was " Husky, Husky."

VOL. I. D

34 RECEPTION BY ESQUIMAUX. \Jltne,

The establishment at the Whalefish Islands must have
degenerated in a most extraordinary degree of late years,
if it ever deserved the reputation of having one decent
house in it within the memory of man. Never did I wit-
ness such utter filth and degradation in any Esquimaux
western tribe in my life ; but visits to Lievely, Uper-
navik, and Cape York, satisfy me that the tribes here
are more filthy. Upon the occasion of our visit, nine
kaiacks formed in line ahead, awaiting our arrival, with
lances poised, as if we had been some mighty monster
of the deep they intended to attack. These kaiacks
probably were manned by their select men, and in-
tended to exhibit a visit of courtesy, as they were better
clad than we afterwards noticed. They kept up with the
ship, throwing then 1 spears at objects which offered, re-
covering them with great agility as they came up with
them, buoyed by their light fish-bladder. One unfortu-
nate linume was struck, probably gazing in astonishment
at us, but pursuit was overbalanced by the chance of
the nice things they might pick up from us, particu-
larly as it was our dinner hour, and Jack is generous
in his way. They probably had seen the ship before,
but no whaler ever could be mistaken for her. Many
of them have some pretension to head and stern, and
are even gilded ; but why our predecessors deemed it
expedient to make our vessels so unlike anything before
created, not a little perplexes me, for in truth we have
less of the heavy ice to encounter. The day will yet
arrive when whalers, or those intending to amuse them-
selves in " northern researches," will prefer clipper-
moulded vessels, instead of tea-chests.

1852.] QUIT FOR LIEVELY. 35

Our time here, whilst refitting, watering, and restowing
our holds, was employed examining the islands and
shooting ducks, chiefly the eider (Anas moUissima}. As
to any communication with the so-called Governor, or
oil-cooper to the settlement, only distinguishable by a
white face and reddish hair from the as filthy Esqui-
maux, there was no inducement. Taking our departure
by the northern route, on the 5th of June, we passed up
the eastern side of the group, in search of Lievely.

The same remarks apply to information about Lievely.
It must be sought by latitude and longitude, being situ-
ated in latitude 69 13' 56" N., longitude 53 42' W.

The surest and unerring mark is a flat-crowned
beetling cliff, about one-third from the western point
of Disco, where indeed they appear to terminate. On
nearing the land, which is " safe to," the rocks which
form the port of Lievely will be seen to project well to
the southward, and fine gravelly beaches commence im-
mediately to the eastward of the rocks which, externally,
form this very close port. It is indeed the port of the
island of Lievely. At about two miles westerly from
these fine dark gravelly beaches, the jutting angular
headland will exhibit the great red beacon, which at
once sets further doubt at' rest.

This beacon is on the outer south-west head, and has
a deep bay within, which at first sight might be mistaken
for the port. Steer past this bay on the outer side of
the islet, which lies off, and round the next inner point,
within which a deep strait will open, and pilots will meet
the vessel. The port lies at the eastern extremity of tin's
strait, and is a most perfect, land-locked, safe anchorage.

D 2

36 DISASTERS. \.Iune,

The town cannot be seen until you reach the eastern
bight of this strait.

In our case, the tenders having been directed to look
out, the beacon was signalled by ' Pioneer ;' and running
in with the ship to a safe distance, I left in iny gig, to
ascertain where the port lay. I was much puzzled by
the outer bay ; but immediately on rounding the inner
point, the warping-rings let into the rocks, and num-
bered, clearly indicated where to proceed. I was not a
little surprised to find that no pilots were coming out,
and, until I reached the Resident's house, that none were
ordered ; but they immediately accompanied me in their
own whale-boat, and on opening the point I made the
signal to the ship ' to steer for my position,' advancing
in the course which she was to maintain. This was im-
mediately complied with by Commander Richards, and
rejoining off False Bay, we stood in, prepared to beat up
to the harbour. I had hoped that the ship would have
beat in to the anchorage in decent style ; but fate seemed
to decree unusual disasters, and either flurries of wind or
counter-currents acted to the annoyance of each. The
'Assistance,' always weatherly outside, would not keep to
the wind, and lost ground in tacking. The pilots (too
many) were all uttering unintelligible jargon, and giving
contrary orders, twice putting us on the same rock with-
out damage, owing to its abruptness ; so that I found,
with such a strong breeze prevailing, that it was neces-
sary to anchor. In the meantime the ' Pioneer' had
made love to an iceberg, which deprived her of her
mizenmast. 'Intrepid' grounded in stays; 'Resolute'
anchored ; and next morning, after it moderated, and the

1852.] MOORED AT L1EVELY. 37

wind favoured us to get in, ' North Star' tailed on the
harbour spit, and remained one tide. We all had our
taste of beating into Lievely. Had all this happened to
raw hands, it would have been clear enough, but we had
too many surveyors accustomed to greater difficulties.
The undertow must have been the cause, by the strong
wind from the eastward forcing the water through the
channel on the east, at the same moment as the flood
was making high water on the surface from the west.
One decided point in my own mind was the want of
rake to our mizenmast. This I had strongly urged be-
fore leaving "Woolwich, but it was not complied with. I
now insisted on its being done : the result has proved
that I was right.

Having all the Squadron now securely moored in this
beautiful little harbour none under the length of any five
hundred ton ship I began to reflect how any one could
venture to waste time by frequenting the Whalefish Is-
lands, when such a complete refuge as Lievely could be
gained, with a civilized Governor, clad at least with re-
spectable clothing, and gentlemanly in manners, and where
every other accommodation which a port should afford
was to be obtained. Port charges might prevent the
generality of whaling ships from entry, but this could
not influence vessels of war. Referring to Sir E. Parry's
remarks, I notice that he only visited this port in his
boat in 18 24, and, unless he sounded it, or consulted
the pilots, could hardly be supposed to know its capa-
city. He considers it excellent for small vessels, but nar-
row for ships of three hundred or four hundred tons. I
should be very glad of such a harbour for three sail

38 SURVEY OF THE PORT. \JunC,

of the line. It conveniently accommodates five sail, in
berths where fifty-gun frigates would be safer than in
Portsmouth harbour.

The Governor, Mr. Erasmus Moeldrup, showed us
every attention, and afforded us all the information in his
power. A survey was made of the port and entrance,
and some of our sportsmen managed to find exercise and
amusement, if not game, by climbing some of the frown-
ing hills immediately over the anchorage, particularly
that which I have noticed as the best guide in seeking
this port. This hill, estimated by some of those who
had not tried its ascent, was estimated at seven to eight
hundred feet above the level ; measurement, however,
proved it to be 2100 feet. The Governor and family
were entertained on board both vessels, and some of the
younger hands had an opportunity of getting up their
polkas and quadrilles, etc., with some of the half-breeds
of Danes, who really performed to admiration, and having
been duly dressed, from " the theatre property," in Eu-
ropean feminine costume, were not wanting in beauty.

Having obtained seal- skins for booting our travelling
parties, and other supplies, we quitted Lievely on the 10th
of June, intending to examine a locality in the Waigat,
where the Governor informed me that coal abounded,
and might be obtained at the beach with little labour,
but that it was cheaper for them to get it from England,
than to pay the wages demanded by the Esqiiimaux.*
Another spot, within forty miles, was also named.

As the ice threatened westerly, I hoped to get round
inside it by the Waigat channel, coming out by the north
* This ooal since visited by the ' Phcpnix.'

1S5.0.J QUIT LIEVELY. 39

end of Disco, and therefore determined to seek this
coal. Our dogs were procured here ; but we did wrong
in trusting solely to the Governor : he had some which
he wished to get rid of. We were informed that all the
best bred were absent hunting.

Light airs delaying us, I quitted the ship in my gig,
near the entrance of the Waigat a sound which divides
Disco Island from Greenland; and keeping along the
shore, at length reached a spot where the banks exhibited
unmistakable signs of a coal-bearing district. The coal
was found in detached pieces on the beach, but not in
sufficient quantity to reward delay. I therefore moved
easterly, to the mouth of a great valley barred by sand,
and which appeared during the summer season to be the
bed of some great river. Within, it being low water, it
was cut up by streams in all directions, the sea-beach
forming a kind of barrier. Strewed along this sandy
beach, about three bags of loose pieces were picked up ;
but. no cliffs, banks, or rocks near, which exhibited the
slightest chance of coal in situ. The surrounding hills
appeared, at two or three miles inland, to be formed
of some very dark stone, constantly disintegrating and
tumbling down into the valleys ; but neither time nor
labour could be afforded to examine them. The Go-
vernor's explanation, that " it would not repay the labour
of collection," was but too apparent. That this was one
of the spots alluded to, as " near a house forty miles
east," I was fully satisfied, as he had informed me that
it was at a sandy beach not far beyond where they had
a house; and this house I visited, and similar coal to
that picked up on the beach easterly had there been

4U SEARCH FOR COAL. [June,

used as fuel. Further along the coast a party again
landed, but no traces of coal : it must therefore lie in-
land, and is probably brought down by the heavy streams
which the thaws throw down through the valleys. The
interval between the nearest mountain-faces and the
shore was covered by a thick peaty soil, in which a
person would sink deeply in any thaw ; the labour,
therefore, of transporting coal, even if it existed within
one mile, would be excessive.

During the day and night previous to our departure
from Lievely, it had snowed heavily, and covered the
land generally to some depth ; but the line separating
this coal-bearing region was most clearly delineated by
the total absence of snow, doubtless clue to the gene-
ration of heat by the previous thaws and sun's rays act-
ing upon the shaly beds, charged with iron pyrites. To
the eye, as viewed by telescope, the hill-ridges appeared
to be composed of a slaty shale, or coal, cropping out oc-
casionally like dykes, and were in immediate association
with a ferruginous clay, deeply channelled by late thaws.

The coal found was not bituminous, but more of a
slaty wood-coal ; burned well and retained its heat when
mixed with other coal, and would be admirably adapted
as an aid for our steamers, especially for banking up or
retaining low steam.

A white fox came to inquire our reasons for visiting
this part of the country, but departed abruptly before he
came within gunshot.

As the evening continued calm, I sent the officers on
shore, to shoot and amuse themselves by making further
researches inland towards the black formations ; this

1852.] QUIT THE WAIGAT. 41

latter they found too tedious, by reason of the yielding
peat over which they had to travel ; but they were more
fortunate in securing several brace of ptarmigan, now
very acceptable to our invalids, particularly Captain
Kellett, nearly ou his legs again, and regaining his cus-
tomary spirits.

June 12. Having contended in this neighbourhood
for some time with strong breezes, and loose ice increas-
ing so fast as to render the navigation a severe duty to
the crew, even to keep the ship clear of it, and the pro-
spect to windward unsatisfactory, I bore up round the
south end of the island, and, passing Lievely, reached
the sea again, now invested with larger and more nume-
rous bergs than we had before noticed. This, however,
indicating a great southerly motion, afforded me hopes
of making an easier passage, as these monsters generally
clear away all before them and break up the small floes.

I notice that the Danes differ from us, in terming these
masses " blinks," whereas we apply that term to the re-
flection of ice or water, as ice-blink, water-sky.

42

CHAPTER II.

Anchor at TJpernavik. The Squadron adrift. Dangers numerous.
Prospects of the Voyage. Browne Islands. Preparation for Flit-
ting. The ' Eesolute' nipped. Docking. Blasting Ice. Wreck of
the ' Regalia.' Meet a Whaler. Irregularities of the Crew. Mel-
ville Bay. Floe Law. Capture a Bear. Cape York.

ON the 16th of June we had reached the western entrance
of the Waigat Channel, and found it closely blocked ; the
ice also, to seaward and the north, apparently closely
packed ; but in this we were undeceived as we neared
it, several lanes opening, which admitted of sailing, by a
little caution in selecting the weakest points for breach-
ing. The floe pieces, or flat ice, were so much eaten into
and rotten, that, if due calculation was made for the im-
petus in running into them at almost natural fissures, no
difficulty existed in dividing them and reaching the next
" lead." After some little excitement of this nature, and
giving a few shakes to the old craft, merely to let her
know that she must awaken to her old duties, we reached
the open water, and were making good progress, unfet-
tered by further obstacles, to the northward.

On the 18th we were off Anderson's Hope; winds
light and adverse. Beat up amongst the islands, and,

1852.] ANCHOR AT UPERNAVIK. 43

as usual, no one able to speak distinctly to any land in
sight, and yet so remarkable, that he who has once seen
ought never to forget it. Late in the evening, as we
reached close in upon one of the islands, it was thought,
on the view we had of a very high perpendicular cliff
(3300 feet), that it might be " Anderson's Hope ;" but
I, who had never before seen the land, knew full well
where I was : but where to find the anchorage at Uper-
navik was the mystery to be solved. The difference be-
tween noon and midnight, in this latitude, was scarcely
taken into account by us, and therefore I felt surprise
that no colours were exhibited, or pilots came off. They
were all asleep ; it was past midnight.

Early on the 19th, a boat, manned by Esquimaux, came
off, but no Danes. At two A.M. I sent the cutter, with
the master, to seek for anchorage and point out the set-
tlement. Still no notice was taken of us by the Danes ;
nor could we distinguish the settlement. At length we
noticed the cutter, in a deep bight, with the signal flying
for anchorage, and shortly after discovered the chapel
and residence of the Superintendent (or Governor) on a
point above.

Upon the return of the boat, we stood in to a small
but snug bay, open to the northward, and anchored, se-
curing to a small islet, as well as to an iceberg grounded
off the mouth of the bay.

I now proceeded to call upon the Governor, Karl
Gelrneyden Flaischer, and received from him every at-
tention, apologizing for not sending out any pilots, as
most vessels frequenting this place are well acquainted
with the usual anchorage. We obtained about twenty

44 THE SQUADRON ADRIFT. \Jltne,

good "water-skins" (a peculiar seal), for the soles of our
travelling-boots, which we were unable to get at Lievely ;
purchased boots and mocassins, pup-seal skins for lin-
ings, and sundry curiosities, Esquimaux models. The
priest also, Jens Michael Peter Krngh, came to pay his re-
spects, a sharp, intelligent man, particularly conversant
with the value of a British sovereign. Both these indivi-
duals were the offspring of mixed parents on the mother's
side and Danish fathers, were born in Greenland, and
partially educated in Denmark. Their wives are Danish,
and the children interesting, animated, and likely to be
handsome. We were also introduced to a pretty dark-
eyed brunette, the daughter of Petersen, who accompa-
nied Mr. Penny as interpreter in his late expedition. In
the window of the Resident we noticed several varieties
of flowers in bloom, but principally natives of Greenland,
although common in England.

We were most anxious to obtain seal's flesh for the
dogs of the expedition generally; but my endeavours were
completely frustrated by the interference of private in-
terests, by which the natives were induced to demand as
much for one carcase as the Governor informed me would
have purchased all in the colony. The result was, that
all were disappointed ; the Resident absolutely refusing
to allow any sales under these exorbitant demands.

In the evening it came on to blow very fresh, and I

.now began to congratulate myself in not trusting to the

stability of bergs ; our bower anchor was well placed,

and an intervening rocky ledge prevented the berg from

< hiving upon us.

The ' Resolute' commenced by breaking adrift, owing

1852.] QUIT UPERNAVIK. 45

to the turning of the berg ; ' Pioneer' fell fonl of her,
taking aAvay the jib-boom of ' Resolute,' and losing her
own fore-topmast. Both went adrift in a strong gale,
with thick fog, into the Strait,

Our own berg, although close in shore, took leave of
us, carrying off the ice-anchors and hawsers of the ' As-
sistance,' ' North Star,' and ' Intrepid.' The uncertain
condition of the ' Resolute' and ' Pioneer,' in fog and bad
weather, amongst rocks, kept us in unpleasant suspense
during the night, but fortunately they rejoined the day
following, when our hawsers, etc., were also recovered.
We dropped our second anchor, and rode it out comfort-
ably, although the gusts at times were very heavy.

June 20. The day turned out very fine, bright sun,
and little wind. After prayers, I took leave of the Resi-
dent, and joined the vessels outside, but, fog coming on,
had some difficulty in collecting the Squadron.

We now passed in to the eastward, between the is-
lands, into the Great Sound, having been informed that
" Sir James Ross did so, and avoided much unpleasant
ice." But in this we were mistaken. After knocking
about until midnight, frequently obscured from each
other, and the sight of land, by fog or snow-drift, and
without any appearance of an opening, I determined on
effecting my escape by the first western outlet between
the islands. Within, as far as we had proceeded, the ice
was fast. With our accustomed good fortune, we soon hit
on a fair lead between them, and just cleared the southern
band of ice, interposed between us and Upernavik.

This neighbourhood is very dangerous to navigate, and
I have been since informed, that scarcely a whaler passes

46 DANGERS NUMEROUS. \June,

by this route without striking on, or discovering, some
new rock. Several were noticed by the ' Resolute,' as
well as ourselves, just capped by ice, and both escaped
once or twice; the 'Resolute' found out her mistake
when intending to graze the ice which concealed the
danger ; great caution must therefore be exercised. As
to fixing the position of any which we saw on the charts,
it was impossible : fog and other difficulties entirely pre-
vented our knowing where we were.

If one calmly casts his eye on the chart, and there
views the dots decorating the coast, each of which is
intended to represent an island and sixty of such dots
would represent sixty miles the difficulty of placing any-
thing there to warn navigators may be understood.

The navigator in these regions must, like the pilots of
the Bermudas, carry his chart in his head, and use his
eyes properly. Latitude and look-out may help him, but
the water is very deep too deep for the lead and but
few soundings on the chart.

Before quitting this neighbourhood, I will endeavour
to give my own opinion as to the approach to and an-
chorage at Upernavik. It is necessary, in the first in-
stance, to know the latitude and longitude of the place
bound to. The anchorage point of Upernavik Bay is si-
tuated in latitude 72 48' N. and longitude 55 53' W.,
about one mile east of the church. The Danish vessel,
which makes her annual visit, I am informed, moors
within a line of rocks, in the depth of this bay, which
forms a natural dock; and she is, I doubt not, in perfect
security, if properly provided with ground-tackle. Our
anchorage in the outer bay showed the nag-staff of the

1852.] DIRECTIONS FOR FINDING. 47

settlement open between the two outer islands, in eleven
fathoms stiff clay, with a ledge of rocks, probably, be-
tween us and the anchor, as the grinding noise of our
cables evinced, and the anchors and hawsers used in
warping were entangled with much kelp. The anchor
was let go when the flag-staff was clear outside the rocky
islet.

The approach to Upernavik is considered to be safest
by " the inner passage," immediately under the high
clifty part of Anderson's Hope, inside of the two is-
lands. When the last point on the right exhibits the
eastern passage open, haul easterly and southerly withal.
The settlement will be noticed about south-east, on the
starboard hand, with the Danish colours flying, and a
white-faced chapel beside it, unless you happen to do
as we did visit it at midnight : then, even a gun, unless
charged with sovereigns, might not elicit much atten-
tion. Even the Danes have very sound ideas of luxury:
in such climates it requires great inducement to get out
of bed. Some of the officers of the ' Resolute,' I be-
lieve, visited the " Rookery" and Plumbago districts ; but
of this I am unable to give any account.

Having now, I, conceive, done my duty to those ma-
riners who may follow me (?), I shall proceed with our
monotonous voyage ; for really, but to seamen, I cannot
flatter myself that bergs, floes, sailing ice, etc. will greatly
interest any one not in want of such information. All
narratives of voyages of this nature demand great indul-
gence from the general reader. One should possess the
pen of Marryat, Hall, or Glascock, and indeed coin in-
teresting matter, to induce any one to enter these pages.

48 REFLECTIONS ON OUR PROSPECTS.

I cannot play the humorous or the buffoon, but truth,
simple truth alone, in such pleasant terms as I can re-
duce it to, will prevail. I have nothing to gain, nothing
to fear : my own family motto must guide me through-
out. Those who despise "Loyal au mort" and loyal to
facts, must not depend too much for amusement in this
narrative.

Our departure from Upernavik, to use the seaman's
well-known expression, was the " hoisting in of our long
boat." Henceforth we must be considered at sea, and
dependent on our own resources. Cut off, for a series of
years, from any but our own companionship, and depen-
dent in no small degree upon the dona fde constituents
of our society, power ceases, and the will of the least
amongst us may create bella, horrida bella. Upon what
a volcano do we stand ! The sullen chief, if he be so,
must chew the cud, and vegetate year after year in sul-
lenness and vexatiousness of spirit. No such purgatory
could exist, better calculated for a man of narrow mind,
none so dangerous to a sensible mind. Such then
being our feelings, I proceed, in charity with all men,
not perfect myself, and willing to overlook all faults in
others, provided they do not, when I tell them of it, still
continue to tread upon my corns.

I had a very strong inclination to cut across direct for
the west laud, under the impression that we should find
less obstruction ; but the predominant feeling being in
favour of Melville Bay, being myself but a Johnny New-
come, I submitted to the ice-masters and others, who
thought they knew better, and followed up the whalers,
reported to be about twenty days in advance of us. I

1S52.] OFF BROWNE ISLANDS. 49

am far from believing that I did right, with regard to
the shortness of passage ; for I firmly believe, a very little
perseverance in maintaining our westing would have re-
warded us by open water to the westward.

June 21. The longest day, and certainly a very long
one, to most of the executives at least. Thick fog came
on, causing a separation from our consorts, but fortu-
nately cleared up in time to prevent mischief, for no two
appeared to have their heads in the same direction. The
'Resolute' alone was standing directly for us, having
heard our guns and fog-signals, and answered them.
The afternoon turned out beautiful. Aided by a light
fair wind, we continued to thread the passages between
the icebergs, at one of which we tried the three-pounder,
shotted, expecting the concussion of the air would cause
some huge fragment to separate, particularly as it exhi-
bited many deep vertical fissures ; but not the slightest
splinter moved.

We soon reached the termination of the open water,
and secured the vessels to the floe or sheet of field-ice,
averaging generally from tlu-ee to four feet in thickness,
six-sevenths of which are supposed to be immersed ; but
we found by experiments, -at a later date, that eight-ninths
is nearer the truth. The weather being foggy, we were
unable to see any distance, or to select any position near
to any probable opening.

On the morning of the 23rd, on the fog clearing off,
we discovered that we were rather too close to one of
the Browne Islands, in four and a half fathoms, added
to which the rocks under our bottom were too visible
to be pleasant ; moreover the ice was drifting us fast

VOL. I. K

50 LOSE TWO DOGS. \JlHte,

towards the island. The 'Pioneer' was immediately put
into requisition, and, having got her steam up, towed
the whole Squadron into deeper water.

Had it not been for this unfortunate interference, I
should have landed, and obtained observations, to fix
some of the other objects in sight, as well as sought for
the eggs of eider-ducks, said to abound here. I was only
able, on a moving piece of ice, to obtain the latitude,
which placed us in 74 7' N., the Devil's Thumb bear-
ing north-east fifteen miles ; shortly before midnight, the
ship was secured to the floe.

About noon on the 24th, the steamers having now
become indispensable, they towed the vessels through a
lead until eight P.M., when we secured for the night, or
rather to afford the crew rest, for it is almost an absur-
dity to talk of nights during the summer in these high
latitudes. "Midnight" however becomes a term of time;
and at this horn- a large berg, in rapid motion towards
us, compelled us to again resort to our steamers, which
towed us sufficiently out of its way, but unfortunately
with the loss of two dogs, which, not yet sufficiently fa-
miliar to their new masters, and possibly over-fed, pre-
ferred amusing themselves on the ice to rejoining their
ships. A boat and parties were sent to recover them,
but without success. They were again seen on the floe-
edge the following day, and the boat sent to endeavour
to take them, but although food was taken to entice
them, still with no better success; starvation, or the
gripe of some hungry bear, would probably very soon be
their fate ! Little as we knew these poor animals, still
their loss was perceptibly felt.

1852.] PREPARATION FOR FLITTING. 51

We had now reached " Melville Bay," and the remark-
able objects known as "Devil's Thumb," "Sugar-loaf,"
" Melville Monument,"and Cape Walker, familiar to Arctic
navigators, were all clearly defined, and apparently very
near. But the positions on the chart, if they be truly
placed and we have reason to doubt it would place us
about forty miles from them.

June 26. Lat. 74 34' N., long. 59 23' W. We had
a most beautiful day, the sun bright, temperature 36, and
were able to determine our advance to have been about
thirty-five miles north and twenty-five miles west during
the last twenty-four hours we obtained soundings, with
320 fathoms ; bottom, coarse ground, with stones and
coral. Our arrangements for " flitting," or deserting ship,
in the event of getting nipped by the ice, were already
made, and the necessary provisions for each boat stowed
on deck in readiness. Each person was supplied with
a bag, in which a complete suit and change of under-
clothing were kept stowed, so as to prevent confusion ;
officers and men were told off to their respective boats ;
in fact, every arrangement complete for leaving the ship
in the most orderly manner.

I think I can perceive the curl of lip of some fastidious
friends, who may deem these matters absurd ; but there
is always an ajjinul mode in burning, sinking, blowing
up, or abandoning a ship of war. Whatever happens in
a well-disciplined ship, becomes less inconvenient by every
man knowing his duty ; no confusion then results, and
less loss of life or property is heard of.

It may appear strange, but doubtless it will be remarked
in the course of our expedition, that " coming events cast

E 2

52 THE 'RESOLUTE' NIPPED. [June,

their shadows before them." About eight this after-
noon, the change of tide or current set the western ice
in motion southerly. As we had no wish to travel that
route, our vessels were removed to the opposite or land-
floe, and, as we thought, in a place of safety ; indeed,
the space of open water seemed to promise us security,
and I had intended to remain quiet the ensuing day,
Sunday, giving the crews their full day of rest. Shortly
before midnight, however, I was informed that the floe
was in motion and closing on the ' Resolute,' and that
she would probably be "nipped." The others were all
more in the cavity of the bay formed by the ice. Before
I succeeded in gaining the deck, the 'Resolute' was in
agony, and had a considerable list (heeled over). The
rudder in a few moments was destroyed, and the pres-
sure then appeared to cease, the floe brought up, possi-
bly, by some opposition to the northward. The motion
of the ice was almost imperceptible, but we had now
before us pretty conclusive evidence of the nature of the
heavy gripe which this insidious enemy was capable of
inflicting almost in dead calm. It was not a direct
pressure, but the grinding power of two unequal forces,
acting laterally in opposite directions. The best illus-
tration to my fair readers would be to imagine the ship
to be the roller of a mangle. The pressure strained the
'Resolute' a little, lifted her above her line of floatation
some eight or ten feet ; the bells were set ringing,
glasses clattering. The sick did not care to remain be-
low ; indeed, in a few minutes they might all belong to
another vessel, and our noble consort /tors de combat :
and yet not the slightest noise or confusion, and no

1852.] DOCKING. 53

apparent fear of wreck ; boats and gear ready on the ice.
This was a calm uip, and here it ended, with merely the
loss of rudder ; but had the outer floe been pressed by
the addition of wind, distant, although not felt by us, and
the "piling" of the broken floe commenced, which result
generally continues until all the weaker points have
yielded and the giants are firmly opposed by equal re-
sistance in each other's embrace, the consequences would
probably have been serious. In very few minutes every
rudder of the Squadron was unshipped and hung to the
stern-davits, and parties engaged cutting docks for the
vessels, a duty on which the crews were engaged until
nearly six A.M. About four the ' Resolute' was released,
and docked with us ; and as her rudder was found too
much injured for immediate repair, the spare one was
got up, put together, shipped, and ready for service be-
fore the following noon.

I am aware that my naval friends will require no ex-
planation as to "docking" in ice, but landsmen may wish
information, and, dry as it may be, I will endeavour to
afford it in as few words as possible. I have already ob-
served that the danger consists in being caught between
the edges of two fields of ice in motion, and that, when
these bodies come into contact, with a force impossible
to calculate, all weaker objects, including the icy pro-
jections themselves, undergo " the crushing force," until
equal forces overcome the caiises in operation. It must
therefore be very apparent, that where such vast sur-
faces, miles in extent, are so firmly cemented together,
if objects be sufficiently withdrawn into gaps within the
line of their opposing vertical projections, they are safe.

54 BLASTINCi ICE. \JuH,

It is therefore customary, by the use of ice-saws, varying
from ten to seventeen or eighteen feet in length, from
a quarter to half an inch in thickness, and about nine
inches wide, to saw out a space which will admit a vessel
twice her own length, and a few feet wider than her ex-
treme breadth, within the irregular edge, and which will
become completely sealed, should an adverse floe close its
mouth ; or, to refer very simply to every-day practice, it
is just backing up some alley, if one is in the way of a
runaway beer-dray in the Strand.

In the present case we discovered, even with three
ice-masters in each vessel, and much other assembled
talent and experience, that there is always much to learn,
and moreover, to facilitate any uncommon service, that
method is imperatively required. Our docks, constructed
in haste, and without previous organization, were imper-
fect, and therefore we were compelled to cut deeper,
incurring double labour.

As our men and officers were now stationed to each
saw-gang, I had the opportunity, as this work was ///-
surely done by one loatch, of determining the rate of work
on which I could rely in ordinary cases. The average cut-
ting of three-feet ice I found to be at the rate of ten feet
in three minutes, which, if no obstacles opposed, and there
was external space into which the masses could be floated,
would allow of "cutting in" in forty minutes,* or less,
if danger threatened. Every officer in command should,
whatever may be the service required, estimate, nay de-
termine, truly, the power at his disposal; and not until
then is he competent to order, decide on, or reject any
contemplated movement where time is involved.

* Later experiments ; 1.40, docked; 1258 tons ice removed.

1852.] DOCKING SHIP. 55

111 these our early operations, recourse was had to
blasting, to aid the clearing of the docks. Charges, vary-
ing from twenty to four pounds, were tried ; but the least
possible quantity of powder which will effect a crack,
the more judicious. This is very easily understood by
any person endeavouring to extract by one end, and hori-
zontally, a pane of glass from a sash : the entire pane
may slide out freely, if whole; if broken at convenient
angles, it may come out by pieces ; but, if severely
cracked in radii from the centre, it will be so much
pressed at the sides as to require to be removed piece-
meal. Ice is still more stubborn. I am fully satisfied
that no man who really understands his business, and is
not pressed for time, will call in the aid of gunpowder. It
is highly dangerous to the dock-sides, which it generally
splits, and causes to tumble to pieces the instant it be-
comes relieved from pressure. Blasting ice is in itself
quite a distinct science, as much so as flint-making,
pebble-cutting, or geological operations.

But, in dealing in the theoretical points, I must not
lose sight of the actual manoeuvre, which is of itself
quite an exciting spectacle. I have before stated that
method is indispensable ; it therefore becomes the duty
of the officer superintending to have all his men duly
stationed : an officer to each saw-gang and triangle ; the
carpenter, with his crew, to line out the clock ; and others
ready to carry out any special orders of the chief. The
carpenters line out a space of a wedge-shape, once and a
half the length of the ship, say a hundred and eighty feet
in length, on a middle hue, sixty feet wide at the outer
month, and thirty feet at the inner extreme. The side

56 WRECK OF THE ' REGALTA.' \Jutie,

lines are then cut by the saw-gangs ; and, as soon as they
have fairly commenced, diagonal lines are followed up ; tri-
angles or jib-pieces (for which see Appendix) are shaped
out, which are removed as cut. On the pipe " Dock ship ! '
the officers with their saw-gangs immediately repair to
their proper saws and triangles, and march off to the
floe, two to the saw, two to the triangle, and four to the
" gins" and " bell-ropes," in much the same order as ar-
tillerymen to their gun-gear, and await orders. The first
few feet is a silent duty ; but " Now, my lads, for a song!"
and at it they go cheerily, never forgetting those nearest
their hearts, as " Sally is the girl I love so dearly," and
similar improvised measures, cheering on the duty, oc-
casionally interrupted by a simultaneous burst, or yell,
from some, at least to us, unknown cause.

The icemen of the 'Resolute' consider that vessel to
have had a very narrow escape, and I perfectly believe,
with them, that no whaler could have withstood the
pressure to which she was subjected. The result has
produced a more serious preparation for " flitting," and
greater attention to boat-fittings. What I had foreseen
happened : a shift of wind set our floe in motion ; the
docks broke up, owing to numerous cracks occasioned by
the explosions by gunpowder, and a general movement
resulted. A polar bear approached the ' North Star/ but
her sportsmen, too eager to get the first shot, fired be-
fore he was within range, upon which he very wisely
withdrew from such uncourteous company.

June 30. We had succeeded, after much toil, in cut-
ting and blasting through several necks of ice which
separated the vessels, and were again collected, when the

1852.] MEET A WHALER. 57

wreck of a vessel on the ice was reported from the
crow's-nest.* It was then so foggy that we had been
groping our way along the floe-edge, in order to prevent
the possibility of parting company. On reaching the
wreck, which we found to be still suspended with her
bow out of water, by her casks and air contained be-
tween decks, I caused the vessels to be secured to the
ice, and commenced saving all the available firewood, of
which we were in need. By bits of papers and brands
upon her spars we discovered that she was the ' Re-
galia,' of Kirkcaldy, and had but recently been aban-
doned and set on fire. The hacking of her spars, rig-
ging, etc. appear to have been executed by the most
malicious feeling of preventing others from making use
of them. The fires were still burning, and it was evi-
dent that the crew had not long quitted. We some-
times laugh at the rapidity with which wreckers destroy
and carry off property; but in a very short space of time
the masts, yards, rigging, etc. of the late good ship
' Regalia' were absent, and stowed somewhere on board
the five vessels, which " had not room for another cask of
provision." As the hull, in its present position, might
endanger some other vessel, I determined to let her go
down, and, at the same time, relieve her of some of the
casks and staves within. This, one of our twenty-pound
cylinders of gunpowder very effectively accomplished,
strewing the surface of the sea with the remnants of
casks, staves, etc. At this moment our men were at din-
ner ; but the noise of the explosion brought them up, and

* " Crow's-nest," a look-out place, about the size of a cask, con-
structed at the topgallantmast-head, to watfh for whales.

58 IRREGULARITIES OF THE CREW. \Jllty,

from each ship the boats' crews rushed, as eager for spoil
as any of our Sooloo friends : it was diversion, excite-
ment, or that innate habit of mischief and fun implanted
in all seamen, for to them no value could attach to these
sjjolia opima. It furnished food for contemplation, of a
very mixed character. But a few hours since, such might
have been the fate of the ' Resolute,' and, in less time
than it takes me to commit this to paper, may be our
own !

Whilst thus engaged, the fog cleared off, and dis-
covered a vessel under sail to the westward. About
four P.M. the ' St. Andrew,' of Aberdeen, joined, and I
there found part of the crew of the ' Regalia,' who in-
formed me, that if we had hove in sight, we could have
saved a great part of her bread and provisions, which
would have been most valuable. She had been nipped
ten days before, the ice passing entirely through her,
meeting at the main hatchway, or, as they termed it,
" completely toggling her." The master having given up
charge, and released the crew from further obedience,
each boat-steerer, as customary, took his boat, and
having provisioned her, the crew then broke into the
spirits, and, regaling themselves in the cabin, at their
highest pitch of intoxication, ordered the skylight to be
closed to keep them warm, when the least motion of the
ice might have sent them in an instant to their last
reckoning ! This was succeeded by every wanton act
which madmen could commit. A fire was made upon
the rudder lying flat under her stern on the ice, and the
ship burned until that end of her sank, leaving her
floated merely by the ail 1 contained in the bow and

1852.] REFLECTIONS ON MELVILLE BAY. 59

empty casks in the fore-hold. We gave the ' St. Andrew'
a tow up to the whaling fleet, which we discovered that
afternoon, docking in company with thirteen, about ten
o'clock that same evening.

The great floe of Melville Bay, where we were now
secured, deserves some little notice. Enlivened, as at
present, with a forest of masts and animated beings, its
wilderness is not sufficiently contemplated. But let the
solitary vessel be there imprisoned, and compelled for
\v<vks, without a consort, to anxiously watch every change,
night and day, which may afford her the slightest chance
of getting into the " north water," and every inspection
must impress upon the mind the dreary monotony of
that floe ! As far as the eye can range, a painfully white,
even surface prevails, here and there broken by a huge
iceberg ; or where mounds of crushed ice or nips present
themselves, piles of rubbly irregularities, like huge paving
flags, cause the mind to dwell on the stupendous power
engaged. The eyes become painfully affected by the
glare, particularly when the sun is bright. The icy sur-
face is generally covered with a fine sheet of snow, or,
at times, fine comminuted drift ice, which on close in-
spection will appear to resemble hailstones.

This floe-covered ocean varies in the thickness of its
sheet of ice from two to seven feet, and, where pressure
has taken effect, is frequently doubled or trebled by al-
ternate flakes pressed under by the meeting of conflicting
floes. It is owing to the pressure of hundreds or thou-
sands of acres against the land-fast ice, catching a vessel
unprepared by docking, that these fatal " nips" result.

The computation of the floating weight simply of a
surface three hundred yards square amounts to 63,080

GO THE 'M'CLELLAN' NIPPED. \July,

tons. With even this insignificant floe, impelled by wind
or tide against the frail wooden structure of man, what
can avail? something like the Nasmyth hammer on a
nut !

If the vessels intended for the whaling trade were
built with a more wedge-shaped bottom, the ice in many
instances would merely raise them out of water, and
allow them to regain their floatation when it eased ; but
she would not then hold the cargo which gain requires.

Strong, however, as the' Assistance' is supposed to be
to withstand pressure, I much doubt whether we should
come off so well in the event of decided "nip" as many
of the vessels here. We are deep, heavily laden ; they
are light, without cargo, would rise easily, and evade the
death-gripe, when we should be crushed.

I much fear that my readers will exclaim, "This is merely
a book of disasters : another wreck !" But too true ; and
this time an unfortunate American. On the 6th of July,
in one of those animated moves, when every effort is
exerted to get ahead and obtain " the load" through mo-
mentary openings in the ice, the 'M'Clellan' barque, be-
ing in advance, endeavoured to pass a narrow opening,
in order to reach the next " lead." She had nearly suc-
ceeded, but the ice, changing its motion, caught her in
the narrows, "nipped" and hurt her badly. In a very
short time she was deserted by her crew. On this oc-
casion our crews aided, repaired, and left her, as we
deemed, all safe, and her crew were induced to return.
But hardly were we all secured in docks, and I was con-
gratulating myself in having thus saved the vessel of
our ally, when it was reported " that she had experienced
a fresh nip, was driven on to the bow of the 'North

1852.] FLOE LAW. 61

Star,' carrying away her cat-head ; and that further as-
sistance was required." Commander Pullen further re-
ported, " that he momentarily expected to lose his bow-
sprit, if further damage did not result."

Fatigued as our crews were, there was no alterna-
tive : all the available hands from the Squadron were
sent to the 'North Star;' and the master of the Ame-
rican having abandoned his vessel to me, possession was
taken, to save stores, protect property, and to prevent
any mad action of the wreckers, which might endanger
H.M.S. North Star.

It is unnecessary for me to narrate all that was done.
1 adopted such measures as secured the 'North Star' from
injury, saved a considerable quantity of bread from the
' M'Clellan,' and eventually allowed the vessel to go down.

The floe about this period presented a very interesting-
subject for the painter. Several of the whalers were ex-
periencing very decided pressure from without, and astern
of these vessels would be seen the various " flitters,"
boats, sails, provisions, etc., with the crews idly and
unconcernedly awaiting the result. The Americans too
had not yet selected their vessels, and were, with their
boats and chattels, on the floe, sleeping however on
board different vessels.

One fact however, totally unlike the old breed of
English seamen, I was ashamed to witness, the child-
ish apathy, or worse feeling, which seemed to pervade
them at the moment when their services were most re-
quired, and when their exertions might have determined
the safety of their vessels. No danger to themselves
presented ; yet all subordination appeared to cease, when-
ever one boat-steerer chose to take Jtis boat to the ice.

62 WHALERS TO THE SOUTH.

I mark his, because I think it is this vicious principle
of making the boat /</.*,* and joining another vessel with
her, that causes all this precipitate abandonment, insub-
ordination, and loss of vessel

In the case of the ' M'Clellan,' the first act of the
boat's crew of the 'Regalia,' sheltered by her, was to set
the captain at open defiance, and her own crew would
not put a finger to the work. I firmly believe that if
Her Majesty's ships had not been present, sad outrages
would have been committed.

I endeavoured to induce the masters of the whalers
present to embark part of her cargo of oil, etc., saved,
with salvage allowance ; but all refused, declaring that by
their law (that of the floe), all that came over their gun-
wale was the property of the ship. It is on this principle
that they destroy their vessels. The oil then floats ; they
could take it on the sea, but not from wreck. For the
provisions, fuel, etc., I agreed that Her Majesty's Go-
vernment would pay the owners, on production of my
receipts.

About the 20th of July, the whalers having come to
the resolution of going south, and not losing more time
in trying the uncertainty of Melville Bay, or gaining the
"north water" by this route, our letter-bag was de-
spatched by the ' True-love.'

On the 21st, they gradually stole away, leaving us in
quiet possession, the ' Alexander' alone determining to
stick by us, and to take our latest despatches. The
feeling was gloomy, but as the separation directed our
energies to our own immediate duty, I was not sorry to

* Wliy not pass a law to make it piracy to take a boat without the
master's signature and full consent?

185:2.] CAPTURE A BEAR. 63

be alone : indeed the companionship and ship-visiting
did not agree with my notions.

On the 23rd, the lanes appeared to have been for
nearly sixty hours gradually widening ; at times the
sheets of water broad, and apparently free. Our progress,
however, just as we had almost calculated our hours to
Beechey Island, became suddenly arrested by fog. The
ice also closed in, compelling us to dock ; the ' Resolute,'
'North Star,' and 'Intrepid' were lost in fog, but not
far distant, as we could hear their return-guns plainly.

July 24. In 75 36' N., 01 51' W. Toiling, tow-
ing, and blasting the ice, until eight P.M., when we made
fast for the night ; about midnight, on the fog clearing
off, we discovered the other vessels, about four miles dis-
tant to the southward. Being now so far asunder, and
the chances of their taking a different lead probable, I
made the several rendezvous, pointing out Capes York
and Dudley Digges as the two first.

Juli/ 25, Sunday. Quiet as any Sunday could be
wished ; we distinctly heard the bells of our consorts
over the ice, and, having measured base by guns, found
tin- 'Resolute' to be four miles distant.

On the 27th, about midnight, we lost sight of our con-
sorts behind some bergs ; they were, at the time, appa-
rently free, and proceeding rapidly by the in-shore lanes.
We ran alongside an iceberg, to water from a pool on
its summit, effecting our landing on the berg from the
foreyard ; but the floe threatening to close and press us
on the berg, we were compelled to haul off, before we
had completed.

The 28th found us moving on cheerily; open water
and plenty of room. A bear was discovered on the floe,

64 SIGHT CAPE YORK.

to which we gave chase in the gig ; the simpleton fool-
ishly took to the water, and gave us a very smart pull ;
however, poor fellow, he soon discovered that he was not
in his element, and sprang upon the first small floe-piece
he met, where he took his wounds most courageously,
plunging again into the sea to allay the pain. After a
very animated chase, and some very bad shots, the balls
finding their way to the ship instead of Bruin, he sur-
rendered, turning up suddenly on his back. This was
the second killed in Melville Bay, the first by Comman-
der M'Clintock and Lieutenant Meecham, of ' Resolute,'
on the 6th instant. This animal, even after a ball had
passed through his brain, I was informed by Lieutenant
Meecham, was disposed to show fight !

July 29. Our advance had now become pretty re-
gular, occasionally impeded by sudden meeting of points
of floes, but these were soon overcome by blasting. I
left the ship today for a short time, with Lieutenant May
and Mr. Grove, in pursuit of the rotges, small aquatic
birds (AIca Alle) about the size of a water-hen. We
killed one hundred and fifty ; but in the act of picking
up the dead birds, a sudden run of the ice took place, at
the rate of three knots, driving many of the birds under
the sharp ledges of the floe. We killed between five
and fifteen at a shot. The ship and ' Pioneer' were tem-
porarily pressed against the floe, but it soon ceased.

On the 30th, we had reached 76 N. and 63 29' W.,
and clearly on the verge of our long-desired " north wa-
ter -." Cape York was in sight, and, towed by ' Pioneer,'
we were pursuing our course merrily, hoping to rejoin
our consorts there, not doubting but that they had been
more fortunate in getting along the land than ourselves.

05

CHAPTER III.

Native Dogs. Red Snow. Cape Dudley Digges. Game. Cape
Wurrender. Beechey Island. Rejoined by Captain Kellett. Cape
Biley. Find Pieces of Whale. Parting Ceremonies. Wellington
Channel. Queen's Channel. Mount Percy. Winter Quarters.

July 31. During the night, we had been making good
progress, threading the mazes with facility, although oc-
casionally bewildered by fog ; but as the sun gained
power, this gradually gave way to a beautifully clear morn-
ing, and before eight we were able to distinguish the huts
of the natives under Cape York : no traces, northerly
or southerly, of our consorts. Running close under the
southern side of this high cape, we noticed the sledges
driving down to the floe-edge, and, accompanied by Dr.
Lyall, I went in the gig to visit them, taking presents
of knives, scissors, needles, thread, looking-glasses, saws,
beads, etc. It was at this Cape that Captain Ommanney
examined for traces of Sir J. Franklin, and brought away
the native boy called Erasmus York. I much regretted
the absence of the Esquimaux vocabularies, none having
been supplied to this Squadron, and therefore was totally
unable to make them comprehend that three other large
vessels were expected ; they betrayed no signs of having

VOL. I. F

06 OBTAIN DOGS FROM NATIVES.

seen them. As to inquiry after E. York, they no doubt
considered him sold as a slave, and turned their atten-
tion more to the business in prospect. But one old man
and a boy met us at the floe-edge, the others, although
near, having held aloof, in all probability waiting until
they were apprised of the turn of affairs. Our traffic
with these people, who were filthy in the extreme, cannot
prove interesting. In return for our presents, but more
particularly in exchange for a boat-hook and a broken
oar, we obtained three very fine and handsome native
dogs, not differing a hair in marks or colours from each
other, being of an iron-grey, whitish beneath, dark stripe
on back and shoulders, and strongly resembling a very
dark-coloured Arctic wolf.

I was indeed glad to find that the articles which they
preferred were likely to be of such value to them, instead
of the trumpery gewgaws usually given to these uncivil-
ized beings. As to looking-glasses, if I for an instant
imagined they would reflect their own deformities, and
induce them to mend, wash themselves, or to scrape off
their filth, I would gladly have bestowed on them all our
supply. Of wood they appeared to be greatly in need, and
had I been aware of it, before leaving the ship I would
have given them some of great value, viz. the staves of
the great oil-casks picked up from the wrecks. Each of
the sledge-runners I noticed, were constructed of no less
than nine pieces of oak, partly staves and heads of casks
cleverly sewn together, and probably belo ging to some
vessel wrecked, or procured from the ' North Star' when
she wintered a short distance to the northward in Wol-
stenholme Sound. They were evidently accustomed to

1 s ").-.] TINTED OR RED SNOW. 67

the visits of English, the boy in particular a much more
intelligent lad than York, and very playful, frequently
repeating " Yes, yes." Their tents were pitched on the
low ground, under the southern and inner slope of the
Cape, which is probably about five hundred feet eleva-
tion ; but we had seen quite enough of the individuals,
not to care about inspecting their habitations, and I
had yet to reach the Cape in time to secure observations
for time and latitude. On our quitting, several parties
joined our friends ; and we moved off, directing the ship
to proceed towards Cape Dudley Digges, and, if not over-
taken by us, there to await my arrival. At the time
we landed, eider-duck (Anas mollissima}, lumrnes (Uria
Briinnicliii), dovekies (Uria Grylle), rotges (Alca Alle],
gulls, and other sea-birds, were numerous, and the nar-
whal (llonodon monoceros) was sporting in great numbers.
I omitted to observe, that the rotges shot by us ap-
peared to be absolutely gorged with a small deep-red
shrimp, which probably renders the flavour of these birds
more palatable than those subsisting entirely on fish.
And it frequently occurred to me, that the tinted spots
in our vicinity, termed red snow, had some connection
with these birds, which build their nests in the cliffs
immediately overhanging ; and the floe, far from this
region, was repeatedly noticed as tinged by them, but
certainly not of so bright a lake or crimson as that now
noticed by us in this locality, which is not given for the
habitat by Sir John Ross ; nor did we notice it to pre-
vail much between this and Cape Dudley Digges. A
supply of both (occurring together) was taken, and pre-
served for future examination.

F 2

68 PASS CAPE DUDLEY DIGGES.

The latitude of Cape York was determined to be 73
53' 47" N., and the variation 90 4' W.; but we were too
late to determine, with any degree of precision, the longi-
tude. It agreed with the observations taken on board.
But the coast-line, as placed on the chart, is certainly er-
roneous, as it makes it convex ; whereas I plainly saw
Cape Dudley Digges, and all the intervening points, in
the concave, as well as the unnamed island, off, from my
position. Several wild flowers, including poppies and
saxifrage, were in bloom, and the base of the cliff was
well clothed with abundance of long grass.

We regained the ship, about three miles to the north-
ward of Cape York, and had full time leisurely to examine
the coast with our glasses, as we were slowly towed by
the 'Pioneer.' Where Beverly Cliffs may be, I know
not ; but no crimson snow now marks the spot.

Towards midnight, we neared Cape Dudley Digges ;
and as this was the second rendezvous, I landed to erect
my beacon, leaving instructions to Captain Kellett to
follow to Cape Warrender. It was a cold and dreary
job, and, but for the noise of the disturbed birds, which
have their nests here, might be pronounced awfully so-
lemn. It was very difficult to find any position on the
profile of such a vertical bluff which would conspicuously
exhibit my mark ; by dint however of scrambling, we
found a ledge well suited to the purpose, on which a
whitewashed cask was placed, and filled with stones,
our cylinder being suspended within reach from a lower
level. This completed, I was not sorry to regain my
boat, and find myself, after twenty hours' exertion, on
my way to my nest. Some few lummes and dovekies

1852.] INFLECTIONS ON GAME KILLED. 69

were added to the larder, and a very fine burgomaster
(Lams glaucus) was winged, but he fluttered so far to
1 1 'i 'ward that pursuit was not warrantable.

Cape Dudley Digges is a high beetling bluff, elevated
about eight hundred feet above the sea, and of a por-
phyritic character. About five miles north-west from
it is a high-peaked unnamed island, termed by some of
our men not inaptly Desolation Island. Off this I
rejoined the ship, which, by the reckoning, would place
this island north-west five miles from Cape Dudley
Digges. I cannot imagine that our consorts have passed,
or some sign would have been left.

Before taking leave of this region of birds, I would
wish to record my observations upon the probability of
Sir John Franklin seriously thinking of laying in any
supply. It is not improbable that they did so for pri-
vate purposes, or for the use of the sick. But any man
traversing latitudes within the Arctic Circle, will be per-
fectly aware that no salting process would be necessary,
where nature takes much more efficacious means, by rea-
son of low temperature.

They are not so easily killed, or taken when wounded,
as some may be led to -believe; and with four double-
barrelled guns, in one hour, but a hundred and fifty were
captured, and yet they swarmed. But I very much
doubt any one killing them with peas, certainly not with
" split peas," with which I think Sir John Franklin's and
other Arctic vessels were supplied. Nor would any ra-
tional person so wilfully throw away " pearls after swine,"
when abundance of shot was provided by the Government.

But wishing to determine, in the distribution of birds

70 BIRDS NOT DEEMED PROVISION. [AltC/mt,

killed on service, what would be deemed a fair equivalent
as compared with meat, I directed a committee to report
thereon. The result was, that twelve of these birds (Alca
Alls) were not deemed more than adequate to one pound of
meat. This, then, reduces the question to one of numbers :
12 X 90== 1080 per diem would be required, to afford
the crews of the ship and tender with one meal. It is my
conviction that, taking a boat's crew, or even two, of our
picked men, fit to be trusted with sporting, this number
would not be taken in one day, and the opportunity
never probably to be repeated. But a much more im-
portant matter hinges on it. His vessels, we know from
the letters received, were fearfully hampered with coal
and provision. Where were they to stow some hun-
dreds of thousands ? Moreover it is too doubtful an ex-
periment to try upon a crew, situated as he was, to force
them, before necessity rendered it prudent, to take a sub-
stitute for provision. When birds are issued, it gene-
rally is considered in addition, to cheer them, to keep up
their spirits ; or when game, as deer, musk-ox, etc. can
be substituted entirely, or half with half rations, on the
march, and where they eat as much as they require, no
bad feeling would ensue. But the result in my own
ship was, that I did not consider it a safe experiment : it
was not necessary, and therefore the birds, when we had
killed sufficient, were served out as additional.

August 1. Lat. 76 3' N., long. 70 46' W. Wea-
ther very fine ; light breeze ; the horizon clear, blue, and
well-defined, dotted merely here and there with small ice-
bergs ; the eye much relieved from the late painful glare
of the ice ; and the good ship, under canvas and in tow,

185.0.] IN ADVANCE OF LAST EXPEDITION. 71

gliding smoothly along at the rate of 3' 5 knots. After
our late dreary confinement in the floe, this was indeed
felt as a release, we breathed freely on our own ele-
ment. Nothing now was wanting, to complete my satis-
faction, but the sight of our consorts, ahead or astern,
the former preferable, as our single steam-tug would soon
bring us up with them, at all events, long before we re-
quired them iu aid of our operations. At this position,
I notice that my friend Austin was, on the 14th of Au-
gust, about ten miles north-north-west of our position;
so that we may console ourselves, after all our tedious
delay, that we are at least thirteen days in advance of
his expedition, amounting here to nearly half a season.

Notwithstanding much was advanced against the pro-
priety of our early departure from England, I now feel
fully satisfied that we were still as late as could be ven-
tured. We have gained greatly in strength, in aptitude
for ice-service, and generally better acclimated than if we
had made the most rapid progress from the mouth of the
Thames to Beechey Island. There are also many minor,
but very important considerations, to which it is unneces-
sary to revert, relating principally to the general health of
the crews, of which my mind has been but lately relieved ;
and this delay has considerably enhanced the value of
some individuals, who might otherwise have been deemed
fit subjects to be sent home. But we are now in full
vigour, ready for any service, and in good training.

On the 2nd of August we had reached the lat. 75 5' N.,
and long. 73 21' W., and but few spots of ice visible.
These steamers are certainly better than nothing, but are
unable to tow us more than three and a half knots, under

72 PASS CAPE WARRENDER. \AuyUst,

every assistance of canvas ; and at very critical moments,
owing to want of power, are under our bows, or possibly
foul the towing hawser. Vessels for this service should
be independent screw steamers, accompanied by the
ships as transports or depot vessels. The officer com-
manding should be in the steamer. Hailing and strain-
ing the lungs to people always half deaf, is not pleasant
to either party, and is productive, by repetition of
orders, when not heard or not obeyed, of very unplea-
sant feelings. Towards the evening, the breeze having
freshened considerably, reducing us to close-reefed top-
sails, we cast off the tow-rope ; motion quick and un-
pleasant, and ship dropping away to leeward very fast.

On the 4th we were again enabled to make all sail,
but found we had been driven, by cm-rent, to the south-
ward of the entrance of Lancaster Sound, making Cape
Walter Bathurst, in lat. 72 19', long. 70 20' W. It is
needless to dwell on our misfortunes, or the time taken
to recover ground ; I shall therefore assume my position
off Cape Warrender, on the 7th, whence I despatched
Commander Richards to the Cape, to examine for re-
cords, and sent the ' Pioneer' off to Navy Board Inlet, to
report upon the coal and provision deposited there by
the ' North Star.' At Cape Warrender Commander
Richards left niy despatch for the Admiralty, as well as
one for Captain Kellett, but could not find the document
left by Captain Ommanney. The label of the cylinder,
with " Pull out," was found, apparently intelligible to
foxes, as the impression of their teeth was unmistakable.
There is, however, from later intelligence from Comman-
der Inglefield, strong ground for believing that not only

1852.] THE 'INTREPID' REJOINS. 73

this, but ray despatches deposited there, were carried off
by Esquimaux, whom he met with at Dundas Harbour,
a little to the northward, in the summer of 1853.

Captain Kellett evidently had not called here, or he
would have left some intelligence. Our progress, unaid-
ed by the ' Pioneer,' and contending with adverse wind
and tides, was very slow. The weather was beautifully
fine, and we anxiously looked out for the return of the
' Pioneer,' whose absence was now very protracted. We
had too much spare time to admire the extraordinary
singularity of the entire land composing the northern side
of Lancaster Sound. One very impressive idea is almost
forced upon the senses, and that is, that one line has been
common to the entire summits, and at one period the sur-
face must have been continuous, exhibiting an immense
surface of table-land, and this, the original feature, was pro-
bably level with the ocean ; that, either at its up-heaving,
or on the subsidence of the waters, it left parallel terraces
for hundreds of miles, and the escape of the water chan-
nelled deep ravines, or scooped out deep bays, constituting
the present castellated eminences. Subsequently, I am
led to add Nor is it to the eye alone, as viewed from
the deck of the passing ship, that these ideas are solely
formed ; it will be noticed hereafter, that a similar course
of structure, similar rocks, fossils, etc., pervade this
strange region, even to the extreme exploration north
of this parallel. By dint of standing close iu-shore, and
watching every change of tide or wind, we had just gained
a position to enable us to "lie up" for Beechey Island,
and the breeze continued to favour us, when our curiosity
was excited by report from the crow's-nest of a stranger

74 BEAR AND WALRUS CAPTURED. [August,

in the direction of Leopold Island. Many were the con-
jectures; for under some aspect, totally inexplicable to
us, did this stranger present herself distorted by mirage.
The black pendant soon informed us of her moving power,
but the ' Pioneer' it was not ; our suspense was not of
long duration, for the ' Intrepid' made her pendant, and
soon took us in tow, when I learned that our consorts
had reached Beechey Island, and not having called at
our places of rendezvous, the ' Intrepid' had been sent
to look for us.

August 11. On the morning of the llth, intending
to visit the cairns en route, by pulling ahead in the gig,
I went on board the ' Intrepid ;' but almost at the same
instant, noticed a large bear about to visit the very cairn
to which I was proceeding. A very short signal to the
ship sent her sportsmen to my aid ; and landing full in
front of the cairn, whilst the officers took it in flank,
Bruin came down to meet me, and was duly compli-
mented by both barrels. He scattered along in-shore,
and fell under the accumulated wounds of those who
met him in retreat. This animal was towed on board,
weighed 7571bs., and measured eight feet seven inches
from snout to tail. Having examined the records left at
Cape Hurd by Captain Austin and the American Ex-
pedition, we moved forward ; however, adventures never
happen singly. Shortly after noon two walruses were
noticed on a floe-piece in our course, and the harpoon-
gun put into requisition. The effect was beautiful ; pass-
ing the harpoon through the monster, and that without
leaving him power to get off the floe : it was a dead shot.
His companion made a great fuss about it, was treated

1852.] REACH BEECHEY ISLAND. 75

with several balls, but eventually retired. This, added
to the bear, became a most valuable acquisition to our
dogs' food, which had now become very nearly expended.

Shortly after five P.M. we sighted the 'Resolute' and
' North Star,' secured to the floe under Beechey Island,
and before seven the 'Assistance' was also fast beside
them. When Captain Kellett came on board, to report
proceedings since our separation, I found that he had
reached Cape York, and communicated with the natives,
on the day after, or the night succeeding, my visit, but
had not the slightest intimation of their having been
visited by us ; and strange enough, he saw the boat-hook
which I had presented to them. As he did not call at
Cape York, Cape Dudley Digges, or Cape Warrender,
he had not met with my notices, nor knew of my having
passed those stations.

On the 12th August, accompanied by Captain Kellett,
and also by an official party under Commander Richards,
a close search was made of every likely spot on Beechey Is-
land, but without discovery of further traces. The graves
were dug into, but found so firmly frozen that no pro-
spect offered by further disturbance ; they were therefore
replaced, and completed anew. Upon viewing the spot
carefully, I was strongly of opinion that the ships under
Sir J. Franklin did not winter on the southern side of
Beechey Island, but were in Union Bay. Upon a very
careful review of the ground, there are several points,
which must have occurred to Sir John Franklin and his
talented seconds, which, in my mind, would have pre-
vented them from selecting the southern bay. In the
first place, it was at once the opinion of Captain Kellett,

76 EXAMINE BEECHEy ISLAND FOE TRACES. [Allfftist,

Commander Pullen, and myself, that Erebus and Terror
Bay was not a safe position for the ' North Star,' and we
determined to seek a better, if possible. Next, if the
' North Star' should have to " cut in," there would be
great doubt of her getting out until very late in August,
or by the 1st of September. This could not suit the
views of Sir John Franklin. With Union Bay the case
is quite different, and the ice may be cut or blasted,
by watching convenient moments. For two seasons we
know that it was free ; and now it is all but clearing out,
any aid would send it forth ; but great labour would
be required to cut in or out, to where the ' Erebus ' and
' Terror' were supposed to have been. Sir James Ross
landed the 'Mary' yacht on the beach of Union Bay,
when Erebus and Terror Bay was as fast as at present.
But the most convincing evidence to my senses is, the
drift-lines of oakum, chips, etc. on the southern bend of
Union Bay. I found also in the washhouse (so termed),
but which I consider more likely to have been an hos-
pital, similar threads of oakum from the seams of some
vessel, with the pitch adhering ; but on the curvature
on the inner, or Erebus and Terror Bay, no drift what-
ever was noticed. Everything at the Point indicated that
to V.e nearest to the ships, the pile of preserved meat-
tins, the garden, etc. No direction-posts were noticed but
on the north and south lines of Union Bay. All opera-
tions discovered are on that coast, nothing on Beechey
Island, excepting the sheltered spot for forge and work-
shops. So perfectly convinced did I feel upon this
matter, that whilst we were examining the drift on the
beach, I observed, " Well, let us send two hands across

1852.] EXAMINE CAPE RILEY. 77

the ice, to meet us at the point where we strike the bay,
and direct them to search the intervening beach for drift-
wood." On reaching the spot (the north bend of Union
Bay), I found two pieces, one Canada, the other English
elm. The men had found nothing.

Proceeding on, we visited the ' Mary,' left by Rear-
Admiral Sir J. Ross, and, having taken an inventory of
her contents, moved ou to ascend Cape Spencer, hoping
from thence to obtain some insight into Wellington
Channel ; but in this we were disappointed, the higher
land in rear intervening. We examined the notices, re-
built the cairn of double dimensions, and returned, some-
what fatigued by one day's labour. I had despatched
Commander M'Clintock, in the ' Intrepid,' to report
upon the state of the ice in Wellington Channel ; but
the reports of all the visitors to the leading headlands,
which aiforded any views up the channel, were rather
adverse to open water ; some even fancied they saw the
icy barrier across the straits.

Today, the 13th, w r e devoted to the examination of
Cape Riley and Gascoigne Bay, accompanied by Cap-
tains Kellett and Pullen. We first proceeded to Cape
Riley : the result of our search afforded no cine. The
circles of stones were clearly those of Esquimaux. The
huts had not been temporary habitations ; each was per-
fectly paved, as in regular settlements, and, as is custom-
ary with these peculiar people, the slabs had been brought
from some distance, as the fragments under the fallen
cliff were abrupt, rhomboidal masses, but these were se-
lected tabular slabs, particularly at the graves, misnamed
fireplaces. The same loose stones, used by the Esqui-
maux to steady their tents, might have been used by

78 THOUGHTS ON VIEWING CAPE RILET. \AugUst,

Franklin's people. I very much regret that the articles
had not been found by us. I am not presumptuous
enough to fancy I know more than others, but there is
a sort of freemasonry in men accustomed to distress,
which enables them to read the movements of others,
induced by the recollection of what they have themselves
practised. Such a feeling has ever remained fixed in my
mind ; but several important questions arise. What tents
do we know of having bolt-ropes ? AVhy would they cut
them off? But, on the other hand, I have had to cut
up my sails, to make sandals for my men ! Again, for
what use was that rake ? Not to take objects of natural
history, but to detach the edible fuci, which my men and
officers have repeatedly seen me seek, and eat with satis-
faction. The inner low-water beach and rocks, immedi-
ately under the point at Cape Riley, furnish this fucus
(dulse).

Captains Kellett, Pullen, and myself have had some
little practice in magnetic observations, and we were
unanimously of opinion that this station never was se-
lected for such service, or, if so, very injudiciously, as
the vertical mass of mountains overhanging would preju-
dice any results obtained. In plain terms, I believe that
some accident occurred there ; and possibly they had to
cross the bay, to regain the ships, if they were there.
Another argument against tents is, that they are sup-
plied by the Ordnance, are not of canvas, and could not
have the service-mark in their four-stranded cords or lines.

This then must still remain clouded in mystery. An-
other consideration forces itself on the minds of men who
work in these temperatures At what season would they
propose to make their magnetic observations ? Not at all

1852.] THOUGHTS ON BEECHEY ISLAND. 79

probable in August, when Franklin would be bound up
Wellington Channel, or homeward ; and only in August,
or later, when thaw had removed the ice, would we find
men groping, with savage adaptation of rakes, in search-
ing the bottom for objects of natural history: one of
three objects only placed them there game, amusement,
or distress ; I fear the latter. I cannot, painful as the
conclusion is, divest myself of the feelings which were
impressed on my mind on searching that so-called wash-
house. The indelible features of a catastrophe were
there : painted canvas, panels, mouldings, oakum from
the side-seams of a vessel (wide seams too), pill-boxes,
surgeons' phials, rags, all indicated a house of shelter
or hospital ; moreover the internal inclination was falling
to the centre, as if the casks had formed the side bar-
riers, and the sleepers had slept with their feet towards
the common fire. Now, taking into consideration the
earliest moment that the ships would embark observatory
tents, and with tent-peys, any ground into which they
were driven would yield them easily in June, July, and
August. I ask, what hurry? And again, in colder
months, what would they be employed about in tents ?
and then, whence the confusion? They could not get
out in July. Indeed every suggestion of hurry is abso-
lutely untenable. A collection of the articles found was
piled up, and ordered to be preserved, and unfortunately
was not attended to ; for, to my mind, the most impor-
tant article, the oakum from the seams, was lost.*

* These remarks were penned in August, 1852. I see no reason
to alter my opinion now, in 1855 : I still believe that position to mark
a disaster.

80 CAPTURE A BEAR. \AugUSt,

However, I shall now dismiss this subject with Cape
Riley. Fossils abound there, particularly fine specimens
of the lily encrinite, but the operation was too laborious
to procure any connected specimens, the rock splitting to
pieces under the slightest concussion.

Moving on towards Gascoigne Inlet, we noticed a bear
in distress, that is, puzzled, not knowing how to proceed
without confronting us. They are not courageous beasts,
and fly from man, if escape is ever open ; but this poor
unfortunate gentleman was perched at the top of a steep
debris chute, which had a steeply inclined corresponding
glacier on its left. There he stood, as we suddenly came
upon him, and most uneasy were his movements, he
paced his quarter-deck in agony. Captain Kellett and
myself landed ; we both fired from below, and wounded
him ; I then ascended by the debris, backed by my
boat's crew, with boat-hooks, etc., and got upon his level,
when one ball settled his fate. Poor stupid creature !
never call them cunning more'! His den was beneath
him, under this glacier, where he might have snugly en-
sconced himself and laughed at us ; and into this refuge
did he now try to crawl, as he received his death-wound.
We should have been glad of the aid of Gordon Cuni-
ining to extricate this monster, as it was no easy matter
to pull him out by the hair of his hinder extremities ;
however, having got hold of one hind leg, he was soon
gliding down the face of the glacier, faster than on any
" montagne Russe," leaving us very little trouble to get
him over the remaining ice into the boat.

Our examination of Gascoigne Bay did not prove satis-
factory. There was not sufficient depth of water for the

1852.] FIND PIECES OF WHITE WHALE. 81

' North Star' to lie secure, even at its mouth ; no shelter
from the ice of the strait ; and, from the thinness of the
floe, it would inevitably break up with the first breeze,
leaving her quite exposed to the driving pack. It was
therefore decided to cut into Erebus and Terror Bay,
where very strong ice still prevailed, notwithstanding
some of its outer lines were constantly breaking away.
As we neared our ships, I noticed that something un-
usual was taking place, as the mollyrnoks and gulls were
dashing at pieces of floating matter, with which they
were gorging themselves in a most excited manner. I
determined therefore to ascertain the object of so much
contention, and, much to my astonishment, found the
floating pieces to be the outer (or blubber) parts of the
white whale, cut into pieces of eighteen inches to two
feet square, and evidently by some sharp instrument.
Two pieces were taken on board, to be reported on by
the ice-quartermasters (whaling-mates), who pronounced
them " to have been cut by some sharp instrument, and
that they were recent and sound." I could therefore
only attribute them to some visit of the ' Prince Albert.'*

The ' Pioneer' having returned, and Lieutenant Osborn
reporting that he had been unable to find the provisions
at Navy Board Inlet, every effort was made to complete
her coal from the ' North Star' that evening.

On the afternoon of the 14th of August the ' Intrepid'
also returned, her Commander reporting "open water as
far as he had been able to examine, but patches of ice in
several directions in our route." The leading officers dined
with me, and after reading over the several instructions

* This question has never been cleared up.
VOL. I. G

82 PARTING CEREMONIES. [Allfflisl,

for their guidance during our separation, our despatches
and last letter-bags for home were closed, and delivered
to Commander Pullen, in the hope that the ' Prince Al-
bert' might stray this way on her homeward passage.
And now a very painful and exciting duty remained to
be performed. The crews of the Squadron having been
collected under the Union, on the floe, were addressed
on their several duties. The beautiful prayer composed
by the Rev. H. Lindsay, for the commencement of tra-
velling, was read, and a copy distributed to each person.
After many and some very warm expressions and pres-
sures of the hand, we parted to our several duties, Cap-
tain Kellett remaining with me to the last ; for in such a
service there are many last explanations. But on one
point a most fervent determination, " God walling," was
exchanged, "to communicate in 77 N. and 105 W."
About eleven P.M., all our arrangements being complete,
I took leave of my companions ; and as they passed
over the side, the order "Let go the warps" was issued.
Towed by the ' Pioneer,' we slowly moved forward,
cheering and cheered, until the island intercepted further
communication.

We were now entering the threshold of the contested
Wellington Channel. Anxiety,' deep anxiety, oppressed
me ; it was unmixed with doubt, rather the reverse.
Through that channel my course lay. If any explanation
of my feelings could have been reached, possibly it was
nearer to gratitude that Providence had enabled me to be
the humble instrument by whom it was to be explored.

By midnight our entrance, to my mind, was no longer
doubtful : no trace of opposition, the clear, deep blue

1852.] MOVE UP WELLINGTON CHANNEL. 83

sea, visible to the horizon, was before us, and, reflected
in the heavens beyond, the well-known " water sky"
afforded us the cheering hope of passing the Rubicon,
the icy barrier of Penny, at Cape Osborne. Every foot
advanced raised emotions not to be explained, and the
telescope had but little rest, so eagerly did we scan every
feature of the surrounding coast-line.

On the morning of the 1 5th, a small cairn was noticed
on a point a little ahead ; I quitted the ship in the gig
to examine it ; it was Cape Grinnell, but no record re-
mained. White whales were sporting very unconcernedly
in the brisk tide which, near the Cape, flowed to the
southward, but the ship evidently moved rapidly to the
northward ; this, probably, was merely an in-shore eddy
current. How the imaginations of the croakers had
conjured up the " barrier of ice," I am totally at a loss
to conceive, for here not a particle of ice, to be seen from
the land, about eighty feet above the level, could warrant
an idea of obstruction.

Passing Cape Osborne about noon, we entered on the
chord of Baring Bay, apparently but a slight indenta-
tion, and free from ice. Our attention was specially di-
rected to this part of the channel, fully expecting to dis-
cover some inlet, stream, or lake, which might afford
Mr. M'Cormick some chance of discovering "a lead" into
Jones's Sound, but in vain ; nor could we find any moun-
tain, hill, or elevation, to correspond with the Mount
Franklin of De Haven. Before evening, all fears of
barriers had vanished, and our course westerly and
northerly was still clear from the mast-head.

About two A.M. on the 16th, we shoaled our water to

G 2

84 LAND AT CAPE HOGARTH. \AuffUSt,

thirteen fathoms off a low point of Nobody's Bay on the
charts (there are no less than five of these, merely bends,
not bays, between Cape Hogarth and Cape Osborne) ;
and very shortly after this, the water continuing to shoal
gradually, a very conspicuous cairn inland was reported.
Before this I had been reposing on my sofa, but this
allowed of no further hesitation -. with every power of
telescope I scanned the pile, and the more I gazed, the
more mysterious still it appeared. It was too large for
any ordinary cairn, and yet I thought that its regularity
could not be mistaken : at one time it appeared to be
the remains of a stone house, the chimney-stack alone re-
maining, possibly a column of masonry, and the work
of man ! Under such feelings, leaving the ship to pro-
ceed under sail, and casting off the tow-rope, I put my-
self on board the ' Pioneer,' and proceeded to solve the
question, taking with me instruments and chronometer,
in order to fix its position. The 'Pioneer' grounding
about a mile off shore, I landed on the beach close be-
neath it ; and it being then low water, by the shore, I
well knew that she would soon float off. On reaching
this remarkable pile, I found it to be one of Nature's
freaks. It was apparently the remains of a limestone
conglomerate, or dyke, the surrounding rock being ta-
bular, slaty, magnesian limestone, of a much firmer and
compact nature, on which the snow or ice acted more
directly. However, the looser rocks had fallen away,
leaving this pyramidal column standing ; its base was
twelve feet by six, height twenty feet.

A white hare noticed us, and kept performing most
suspicious circles round us, frequently presenting herself

1852.] COPY OP NOTICE. 85

at the opposite point from which she had vanished. Dr.
Lyall, who accompanied me, used every endeavour to take
her, but she never permitted him to get within range.
I once came suddenly upon her, but, not having my gun
in hand, she escaped. The determination of this position
proved it to be the rise of Point Hogarth, and yet none
of Captain Penny's travellers noticed this obelisk ! It is
situated in lat, 76 12' 52" N., long. 92 48' 42" W., the
variation 146 11' 51" W. ; a most unmistakable eminence,
to which I have given the name of Lyall Bluff, is almost
immediately adjacent. The terraced levels were strewed
with bivalves, chiefly of the Mi/a tribe. As an example
of the notices deposited at each cairn visited by any ex-
ploring officer, I beg here to add the one left at this sta-
tion ; they were printed forms, filled in by the officer in
command of each party.

Arctic Searching Expedition, under tlie Command of Captain Sir
Edward Belcher, C.B.

DIRECTION.

Ships. ' Assistance ;' Tender, ' Pioneer.' Wellington Channel.
' Resolute' (H. Kellett) ; Tender, ' Intrepid.' Melville Island
Lane.

Depot or General Rendezvous. '.North Star,' Beechey Island.

Left Beechey Island, Saturday, 14th August, 1853, at ten P.M.

Proceeding towards Sir Robert Inglis Bay, westerly.

Dai/. Monday: date, August 16, 1852 : time, three P.M.

Condition. All well.

Remarks. Landed, believing the remarkable stone pillar, inland, to be
a cairn erected by human hands. Observed for latitude, longi-
tude, and variation, and to correct chart.

EDWABD BELCHEK, Captain,

Officer in Charge.

The day was really entitled to the appellation of lovely;

86 PASS INTO THE QUEEN's CHANNEL. \AugUSt,

it was serene and balmy for this climate. Having re-
joined the ' Pioneer/ we overtook the ship to the eastward
of Cape Majendie, and mistaking it for Cape Becher, on
which I determined to land a cache, despatched Com-
mander Richards and the master to execute this duty
about eleven P.M. The cache consisted of forty-two
days' rations for ten men, or four hundred and twenty
rations, and was intended to relieve our parties who
might have to travel back with despatches. About two
A.M. our boats returned. The tide running strong to
the eastward, prevented our getting much beyond Cape
Becher before I gained the deck in the morning, so that,
as we progressed, I had the full advantage of scanning
the entire coast-line. To the southward, I noticed a
shoal islet, not on the chart, and some very remarkable
capped table mountains, in a northern deep indentation,
to which I gave the name of Barrow Bay, and to the
conspicuous little detached table mount, John Barrow
Head ; saw the islands Parker and Barrow, of Penny,
and noticed that any points he might have seen were
but the outer spits of several islands covering each other
and flanking the northern shore. As to the geography
of the place, we were sailing over a great deal of hard
land of the published charts, without injury to the ' Pio-
neer' or ourselves ! Moving on rapidly under sail and
steam, I asked myself the plain question, " Would Sir
John Franklin, under such circumstances, stop here to
erect a cairn, with the sea open before him?" I ex-
claimed to myself, No ! and, tainted with some such
prejudice, and with such a breeze thinking it would bt:
sinful, on we went. But there is an end to all things,

1S52.] ASCEND MOUNT PERCY. 87

and so, having reached the end of the far-famed Queen's
Channel on this side, and our progress impeded, I thought
that some beacon should designate the turning ; and fur-
ther, as it had now become necessary to seek for our
next course, I determined on ascending the mount, the
base of which I have retained as Cape Sir John Frank-
lin, from whence I obtained a most commanding view of
laud and ice from north to west and round to the south.
But unfortunately, what we little dreamt of when we
commenced our ascent of this mountain, was clearly ex-
hibited to our senses, for ten miles beyond the base of
our position, an ominous icy barrier prevented further
progress westerly ! The only chance which seemed to
offer was by taking the north, through the inside pas-
sage, which yet remained to be examined. Beneath us
lay a magnificent sound, hemmed in by two great islands,
and until Nature was inclined again to favour us, there
we must await her pleasure. To this elevated position I
gave the name of Mount Percy, taking possession, in due
form, for Her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria;
and to the sound beneath, that of Northumberland
Sound, in honour of Her Majesty's Minister, the noble
Duke presiding over the Board of Admiralty.

Descending in somewhat diminished spirits, I rejoined
the ' Pioneer,' recalled the ship, which was fast dropping
down into the ice, and succeeded most happily, as things
turned out, in securing her that night in safe quarters.

Numbering our particular events, I term the passage
of the Queen's Channel No. 1 fortunate. That of securing
the ship before she fell into the jaws of that ice, No. 2 ;
for most assuredly her timbers, unless she drifted back in

88 SECURE IN NORTHUMBERLAND SOUND. [August,

the direction of the strait by which she entered, and had
contrived to reach Barrow's or Sir Robert Inglis's Bays,
never would have repassed Beechey Island (if they ever
do, as it is). From the summit of Mount Percy, Cape
Becher is shut out, and Baillie Hamilton Island not de-
finable. The Point to which Captain Penny has given
the name of Sir J. Franklin, is the point of Long Island,
twelve miles southerly, covering Barrow Bay ; but as it
was manifestly intended by Government that the names
of Sir John and Lady Franklin should occupy the limit-
ing points of the Queen's Channel, I have removed them
there.

From this point our new world commences ; and as I
have taken such liberties with Sir F. Baring Bay on my
passage up, I think I cannot better place his name, than
by giving him the great bight within us, easterly. I have
not interfered with any of the points southerly, as named
by Captain Penny, but the islands will take appropriate
names as may be hereafter assigned to them.

Attyust 18. Our measures were not taken an instant
too soon ; hardly were we secured in Northumberland
Sound, than the ice began to threaten, and it soon be-
came evident that we must select more secure quarters.
However, before the ice had made any breach into our
snug position, I ran over with the ' Pioneer' to the
northern remarkable island, and from its summit I soon
perceived that, for the present, all progress by ship must
be stayed. I had also sent Commander Richards to an-
other higher mount, so that our motions, at all events,
by ship, boats, or sledges, should be based on some fixed
positions. The view from the pinnacle of the island,

1852.] SECURE IN WINTER QUARTERS. 89

which has been temporarily termed Pioneer Island, was
truly cheering. To the north and easterly, islands and
land as far as the telescope could see. Nothing but
ice occupied the arc of the horizon from north to west-
south-west. There lay the Arctic Ocean ; Cape Lady
Franklin, at least our newly-named cape, appeared to
bound the southern shore, but the loom of land was evi-
dently visible further to the southward and westward.
On my return to the ship, Commander Richards in-
formed me that he thought a very complete little har-
bour would admit the ship on the opposite side of the
Sound. It was found, however, to be unfortunately
barred by a ledge of gravel, having only twelve feet ;
but immediately outside and behind it Nature appeared
to have thrown out a rocky spit, which would afford
us shelter within, and at the same time be at the line
of open water, should occasion require any immediate
removal. Into this, as our other position was in very
deep water (thirty-six fathoms), and much exposed, we
were accordingly transferred, and, as events proved, not
an hour too soon. From that spot the ship never
moved, nor could have been moved, for any sensible
purpose that season ! Nor was it possible, had such
been the command of their Lordships, to have moved
any vessel westerly of that position ; moreover, had such
been practicable, no man in his senses, having a discre-
tionary power vested in his hands, would disgrace his
trust by any such mad attempt, when the special object
contemplated by this Expedition could be much better
achieved by boat or sledge travelling.

90

CHAPTER IV.

Frozen in. Sledge Travelling. AValrus Shot. Habits of the Walrus.
Village Point. Esquimaux Hut. Deceived by Mirage. Tent
Equipage. The Sentinel. Ice Accumulations. An Intruder.
Exmouth Island. Rejoining of the Party. Nip and Piling Ice.
Quit Exmouth Island. North Cornwall.

THE position which we had taken up will be best under-
stood from the small plan of Northumberland Sound,
of which a very rapid survey was made during the pro-
gress of feeling our way, preparatory to more decided
exploration.

Our anchorage, although very nearly land-locked, was
very capacious, and afforded great scope for heavy masses
of ice to play their pranks. But I consider our principal
safeguard from any such visitation consisted in the tidal
stream, which set directly parallel to the chord of the
bay between our outer point of the peninsula and the
opposite southern horn of the bay ; and the motion of the
ice from the westward would be further impeded by a
long shoal islet, stretching well out to the northward of
the great island, and flanked by a smaller one within, on
which they all appeared to expend their impetus. The
outer point of the peninsula (called Mount Beaufort) was

1852.] COMMENCE SLEDGE TRAVELLING. 91

our first protection, and the ledge off the intermediate
rounding angle our perfect guard.

With a rapidity not at all understood, we became sud-
denly frozen in, and at a period too when previous navi-
gators would have led us to believe that the ice might
"break up" for the season. What impressed me with
the conviction that the present occurrence was decisive
against further motion, I cannot conceive, nor did I wait
to inquire. I had seen enough to instruct me that de-
cision only would enable me to save the remaining part
of the season, and, if properly employed, would make a
great extent of the northern land, estimated as forty miles
distant, British territory.

August 20. About midnight on the 19-20th, the
'Assistance' ceased her travels for the season. On the
23rd, at 7.30 A.M., three sledges and one boat moved
out fully equipped, from the ' Assistance.' The Hamilton
boat and Londesborough sledge the Captain, and Mr.
Louey, master. Second sledge Commander Richards,
and Mr. Grove, mate. Third sledge Lieutenant Os-
boru and Dr. Lyall. The party consisted of twenty-
seven persons, and carried twenty-one days' provision.

A short space was navigable, to which the other boats
aided us, but quitted on reaching the outer floe under
three hearty cheers. At starting, the ' Hamilton' alone
was available for crossing the lanes of water, but this so
much retarded us that Commander Richards returned for
one of the whale-boats. We had then advanced about
three miles. On one occasion we enlisted the services
of a piece of loose ice, on which a sledge and crew com-
plete were, by our united sounding-lines, warped across

92 WALRUS SHOT. \_AllffUSt,

safely. But it was not a little amusing to watch the
countenances of some of the party ferried, more doubt
than confidence prevailing. Here we encamped until
Commander Richards returned, or until the following
morning, during which time I succeeded in shooting four
walrus, two of which I was enabled to secure, but, Dyak
fashion, their heads only were at this time taken. During
our absence on this journey one of the beheaded carcases
floated near the ship on the floe-piece where I had left
him, and was captured, but not, I believe, without fur-
ther expenditure of ammunition : of this I have no par-
ticular evidence : he had no head to speak for himself,
and no such trophy was produced. It is not pleasant
to narrate acts which bear the impress of cruelty, and I
must confess that, on reflection, the killing of four of these
animals, without securing them for use, was unnecessary :
the sportsman seldom thinks of this. The death of
monkeys or parrots, and turtle, where they could not be
consumed, has often brought me to the same reflection.
But without dwelling further on acts or motives, the duty
of naturalist compels me to notice the conduct of these
warm-blooded animals on being wounded. The father,
mother, and cubs were of the party. On the death of
the mother, or rather on receiving her wound in the
neck, it was painfully interesting to notice the action of
her young : one literally clasped her round the neck,
and was apparently endeavouring to aid in staunching
the blood with its mouth or flipper, when at a sudden
convulsive pang she struck at her infant with her tusks,
and repeating this several times with some severity, pre-
vented its further repetition. The male, with a very white

1S52.] HABITS OF THE WALRUS. 93

beard (strong horny bristles), came up repeatedly in a
most threatening attitude, snorting aloud his vengeance ;
and well satisfied was I that the floe was my safeguard :
doubtless he would have wreaked his vengeance on the
' Hamilton/ and we should have met our punishment !
Another, finding that she could not longer swim, deli-
berately hauled herself up on the floe to die. Now with
all due deference to anatomists, who may afford us full
proofs of the capability of these animals to walk like flies
on our ceilings, I must protest, from frequent observa-
tion, against the use of the flipper of the walrus for this
purpose. It does not appear to be of greater aid than
that of the seal is to that animal ; and, strangely, its
nails are placed on the upper side of the flipper, some
inches within its margin. That the power of exerting
the vacuum exists, I doubt not. But here, within a few
feet, deliberately did I watch the progress of the animal
in effecting its purpose. In the first place, the tail and
fins, exerting their full power in the water, gave such an
impetus, that it projected about one-third of the body of
the animal on to the floe. It then dug its tusks with
such terrific force into the ice that I feared for its brain,
and, leech-like, hauled itself forward by the enormous
muscular power of the neck, repeating the operation until
it was secure. The force with which the tusks were
struck into the ice appeared not only sufficient to break
them, but the concussion was so heavy, that I was sur-
prised that any brain could bear it. Can any one then be
surprised, when they are informed, that they " die hard,"
even when shot through the brain ?

As the 'Hamilton,' our sledge-boat, will frequently

94 REACH VILLAGE POINT. \AliyUSt,

occupy a very conspicuous position in this narrative, I
may as well explain that four of these boats were sup-
plied for light ice-travelling, built of canvas and very
thin board cemented together, and weighing three hun-
dred pounds. A model of a Norway boat having very
kindly been lent to me by Captain Hamilton, the Secre-
tary of the Admiralty, these boats were a modification,
improved as the four were successively in progress of
building ; this, being the last, I selected, and named her
after my kind friend. She might be termed a brown-
paper boat, but did her duty well with those who knew
how to manage her.

As Commander Richards would have much further
delay, and my operations could progress without him, I
pushed on for the low point in sight, being the extreme
seen from Mount Percy. Here we constructed a very
large cairn, composed principally of the remains of an
Esquimaux encampment, and which gained for the sta-
tion the name of "Village Point." This village, or en-
campment, was of the most substantial construction, and
from the remains of bones, etc., not of such great anti-
quity as travellers in these regions are in the habit of
assigning. Great ingenuity and labour had been exerted
in their construction. They were not superficial, but
their foundations were laid at least three feet below the
ground, a matter most difficult to execute, even with our
tools, at any season ! These foundations were of stone,
in double walls, with the interval filled in with fine clay
and gravel. The doors faced to the east, and evidently
had the long passages usually appertaining to those of
settled habitations in Greenland. Further, as noticed at

1852.]

ESQUIMAUX HUTS.

95

Cape Riley, all the stones were larger, and different from
any others noticed on the Point.*

The general form of these houses was that of an ob-
long oval, about ten feet by twelve, having the doorway
about three feet wide by two feet six inches in height,
on the floor-level, descending easterly to the external adit.

One from which this sketch may be said to have been
taken had the flat stone remaining over the doorway, as
at a. When I venture the observation recent, I wish to
be understood as having then, on the spot, asserted such
to be my belief, irrespective of later discoveries ; and I
felt satisfied, from general observation of the operations
of nature during a season, on stone and other substances,
in these latitudes, that no such long period as " hundreds

* None were seen but those of which the houses were constructed.

96 DATE OF THE HUTS. [Allf/USf,

of years" could be assigned to them. I have studied
this matter lately with some interest. I have dug in
the grave-circles (not fireplaces, for they do not contain
a trace of fuel) ; have noticed the bones, as well as the
moss, which latter doubtless was deposited with them ;
but the moss is not that of a long period, not hun-
dreds, nor fifties of years. I put the question to oppo-
nents, Why does the moss exist solely in these struc-
tures ? It is never seen outside these accumulations of
stones, nor does it belong to the locality, it is marsh
moss, brought from a distance. If this moss, torn up
and displaced, remains thus in its new locality, why does
the common saxifrage, which elsewhere abounds, cease
to exist near any of these spots ?

But to return to the huts. These structures, more
recent, and unlike anything noticed at Cape Riley, in-
dicate more purpose, more determination to reside, and
are near to the very spot where walrus, seal, duck, deer,
etc., are to be met with, and the profusion of such bones
indicates this most completely. Deer we know to be
in this region ; they were fired at by some of our later
party, and their recent tracks on the snow were evident.

The " teeming of animal life," described by our prede-
cessors at Cape Becher, we have not witnessed, nor have
we seen anything to warrant, beyond the chances of wal-
rus, anything worthy of being calculated on to support
a party, by the chase, on shore or afloat. Hunger, it is
true, reduces the appetite to strange food ; but at pre-
sent no attempt to substitute walrus or bear, for other
food, would be relished by the majority.

At this point coal was found, both at the huts and at

1852.] DECEIVED BY MIRAGE. 97

the water-line ; it had been evidently washed up by the
sea; also some few bits of very much decayed wood and
a small flaying knife, made of wood, closely resembling,

in every particular, those of ivory found amongst the
Western Esquimaux. It was carefully preserved, with
other fragments of wood found on this coast-line.*

Our operations here being complete, and no signs of
the party yet advancing, launching the ' Hamilton,' we
moved forward, leaving behind the necessary instructions
for their guidance. This journey, being our first sea ex-
pedition, and testing the capabilities of our boat, laden
with all the sledge and tent equipage, in rough water,
was a most critical as well as interesting experiment.
She answered well ; was light, and easily handled.
Another of the visions dependent on the state of the at-
mosphere, and so perplexing to Arctic travellers, bewil-
dered us today. This was the impression of a block-
house, or square building, on the slope of the north
point of Pioneer Island. The nearer we approached the
spot, the more we felt convinced that this time there
was no illusion. We landed and pushed up the hill,
with more anxiety than usual; and scarcely could I
credit my senses, when I approached within a few yards
of the object, to find it merely a square rock, not exceed-

* Nothing at this point could be traced of any coal-bearing associ-
ations, nor were any traces observable on the adjacent land. Bitu-
minous shale was found on a low spit, seven miles to the south-west.

VOL. i. n

98 TENT EQUIPAGE. \_All,(/USt,

ing four feet on its sides, and not more than one foot
above the surface of the ground. This was our house !
I recollect something, in former voyages, of ptarmigan
being mistaken for musk-oxen, but they were more dis-
tant and on the snow.

We now pushed forward for a long, low island, about
five miles to the northward, appearing in the distance as
a mere gravel bank ; but this proved to be a deception,
of an opposite character. Fortunately, we Avere favoured
by a narrow lane of water, of which, having launched our
boat, and stowed our sledge and cargo therein, we made
good use, although at any moment the slightest move-
ment of the ice might have pinched her to atoms. We
reached it about four P.M., very glad to encamp for the
night, and await the arrival of our party. This being a
new possession, the colours were duly displayed ; it was
found to be at least eighty feet in height !

Our mode of encampment, etc., not having been ex-
plained in any works published, I shall here give a rough
outline of the tent, equipment, etc. The tent is very si-
milar to that of American hunters, with this exception,
instead of two forked poles, and one horizontal, resting
in the forks, with the sides pegged down, the extremi-
ties of these are framed by two boarding-pikes, forming
the pitch or sheers at each end, and a horsehair (clothes)
line stretched over these forks, and well secured to the
sledge at the back, and by a pickaxe in front, keep all
steady, so long, at least, as they hold. Instead of peg-
ging, the sides are well banked with snow, which re-
tains the heat, and keeps them pretty secure, if well
performed ; but if not, the breeze is sure to pene-

1852.] THE BARBER. 99

trate and create more rattling than is conducive to com-
fort or pleasant dreams. Each person is furnished with
a blanket-bag, formed of thick drugget or felt, having
an outside shell of prepared brown holland, supposed
to be impervious to the air. The officer, who should al-
ways occupy the post of honour, is located at the extreme
end, and that end is always placed towards the wind, in
order to prevent its blowing into the mouth of the tent ;
he is able, therefore, to feel exactly for himself, as well
as those around them. Into this chrysalis bag, by dint
of a kind of caterpillar wriggle, each individual contracts
himself, endeavouring, by every reasonable mode, to pro-
duce a suffocating heat, and using his knapsack, boots,
sextant-case, or any other convenient object, for a pillow.
Indeed, it is absolutely necessary to place any article, to
be worn on getting up, sufficiently in contact with the
body to preserve its flexibility, or to prevent it becom-
ing frozen. Over the snow is spread an oilskin canvas
and buffalo-robe carpet ; and when all are laid out, or
have supped, a general coverlet of felt is superadded,
which is supposed to confine the accumulation of ani-
mal warmth. Cold, it is imagined, does not ascend,
nor heat descend ; yet it is very distinctly felt in both
ways, especially when the warmth produces something
very similar to a thaw beneath. But the enemy, not
" the sweet little cherub," etc., but the barber, is ever
aloft, condensing the breath, and dropping down re-
freshing~snow-showers, which makes one very dubious
about exposing his head outside his shell, the lap of
which he manages to turn down, and complete the en-
velope. The cookery and other proceedings are mere

H 2

100 MUD VERSUS STONE. \_Altffltst,

commonplace. In these tents you sleep as soundly as
you can fancy, under the temperature, unless the whis-
pers of " bear," or the ominous snuffling of that animal,
should induce you to ask, "Who is cook?" As this
personage, although permitted to sleep at his post, is the
sentinel par excellence, he of course has the place next
the door, and, if not very sound asleep, is aroused, and
betakes himself to reconnoitre ; the result may appear in
another act.

In the morning we ascended our hill, eighty feet above
the sea, to look for our party, and to construct one of
those cairns so emphatically recommended in my instruc-
tions. These structures are supposed to be of stone ; but
as the ground here was fine gravel, and frozen hard,
enough could not be amassed to support our flagstaff.
Necessity, however, effects wonders at least for tem-
porary purposes ; failing in stones and gravel, we had
recourse to a peaty moss, found in a kind of morass at
the back of the summit. The foundation having com-
menced with this, the men soon found that the peat mud
was warmer than the air, and froze as they used it.
Sailors have their ideas of enjoyment ; and as this proved
a novelty, a new mode of building was immediately
adopted, and between peat, with black mud for cement,
aided by a sharp frost, a very fine black pyramid arose,
quite as solid, so long as frost continued, as any con-
structed of stone. It was strange, however, that the
pond of black mud did not freeze nor lose its tempera-
ture during the period we remained at work ; our men
seemed to enjoy the warm mud, washing their hands in
it before retiring, and I have little doubt that, with the

185.0.] ICE ACCUMULATIONS. 101

second application of water at the sea-beach, it removed
much grease.

At this island we had a very fair opportunity of wit-
nessing the effect of "piling ice," particularly as no-
ticed on all western projections in the Queen's Channel,
or beyond, where they are apparently exposed to the
whole impetus of the tides of the Arctic Ocean. In this
instance the ice had been raised, slab over slab, on the
north-west point, above the summit level of the island ;
and at first I was so impressed that it was one solid
mass, or that it could not be an accumulation of floe-
pieces, that I sent the master to determine the fact, as
I suspected it to be part of a berg. But it was simply
piled ice, frozen into a mass, and nearly a hundred feet
in height. No bergs are supposed to be seen in these
seas (?). This island had been the resort of geese and
eider-duck in the spring, many of their nests remaining
quite distinct, and partially clothed with down. Shortly
after our arrival, we were joined by Commander Richards,
who had brought the whale-boat ; but as I wished the
fact determined, as to our depot ordered to be placed at
a point on the coast, I sent his division in-shore with
instructions to rejoin me at the Great Red Island (Ex-
mouth), then in advance about ten miles.

About eight A.M. on the 26th, we struck our tents,
and moved forward, aided by a short lane of water. The
day was beautiful, and, with a temperature of 29, proved
too warm for travelling on the floe, which we experienced
when we commenced with the 'Hamilton' made fast be-
hind our sledge, Mr. Loney and myself aiding, by help-
ing the boat by the stern over the inequalities.

102 RATE OP TRAVEL. \Augmt,

Method is my invariable rule, even for the most trivial
duty. So far I am an advocate for the soldiers' system,
or rather what I always look forward to in our profession
the establishment of a distinct corps of Royal Naval
Engineers in essence, although that term would now en-
tail confusion, such being applied to the steam depart-
ment.

" Knowledge is power," and such power enables every
one conducting service of a laborious character to ac-
complish it with the means at command with less diffi-
culty. The exertion of undue labour at one period of
the day, and relaxation at another, when difference of
temperature causes very important changes of capability,
is to be regulated, and strength husbanded. In order,
therefore, to determine our actual rate of travelling, I
determined to pace our " spells," or time employed be-
tween breathing or resting places. I had noticed that
the duration of a "spell" was subject to the will or caprice
of the men, or any one indolent man, if such should be
present ; and I found it to be an evil requiring remedy.

Having determined, during our times of rest, that my
step was equal to 2'33, or 4~66 feet for double paces,
I soon arrived, after three hours and forty-six minutes'
actual travelling, and pacing 43,620 feet, at the result,
that our legitimate scale did not, including the boat in
tow, more than average 1*9 miles per hour, exclusive of
stoppages ; and these I found took the range of spells or
time travelling, commencing in the morning at thirty-
three to twenty-three minutes before noon, and twenty-
eight to thirteen minutes after noon ; their strength, to
my most perfect conviction, diminishing between four

1852.] NOCTURNAL VISITORS. 103

and six P.M., or immediately after the afternoon's grog,
which was consequently discontinued until the proper
time, of supper.

About 5.45 we pitched our tent for the night upon
the smooth part of the floe ; but just as our peminican
\\us properly seasoned and ready for distribution, a
visitor, not victualled, made his appearance, attracted
doubtless by the savoury perfume ; this was a polar
bear. Our party withdrew into the tent, and the gen-
tleman very deliberately walked up within short pistol-
shot, snuffing the air with the peculiar habit of these
animals, and contemplating, no doubt, a comfortable
meal. A ball through his fore-arm caused him to
stagger and attempt escape ; but the next, through the
heart, from the other barrel, laid him low. Pemmican
was entirely forgotten until his skin was deposited be-
side the tent, our heroes declaring "that they never
could get his jacket off, if he once got cold." Poor
fellow ! his confidence deserved a better return ; but his
jacket, as well as his fat (for fuel), were now important
considerations. Our supper finished, and gun reloaded
and placed ready for further service, we withdrew into
our shells, and were soon enjoying comfortable dreams,
far, very far, from polar bears ; but about midnight, his
anxious lady seeking him, in all probability, tracked him
up to the tent, and there found his head, outer garment,
and his slippers, the latter intended for a carriage com-
fort for a fair friend. Her hard breathing awakened
the cook, who, as I before stated, is, in addition to " the
little cherub," etc., our only guardian angel, and who
whispered along the bag-mouths, " Another bear, Sir."

104 EXMOUTH ISLAND. \_Auytlst,

The heavy blanket overlying me, and the difficulty re-
sulting from the general move of my bedfellows to extri-
cate themselves, prevented my reaching my post, per-
haps, as deliberately as etiquette might demand; but I
found my gun in hand, and the enemy in front, quite in
time for action. The clear light which prevailed enabled
me to see the eyes and black-tipped nose within about
three yards of the muzzle of the piece, and one ball in
the mouth and through the head was, I thought, quite
enough to expend ; and believing it impossible for the
victim to escape, I did not fire the second. She moved
away, spouting blood, and doubtless died. Some of our
people tracked her for a short distance, but were soon
recalled ; we had already more than we could conveni-
ently carry, although bear's-grease is with us quite as
important as to our friends at home. After flinching
this from the skin, the latter became a very useful pad
between our ribs and the ice.

About eight we recommenced our journey, determined
to use every effort to reach our red-tinted island before
encamping tonight. A similar set of experiments on
marching, with a little more attention to the periods of
rest, afforded two miles* per hour with less fatigue. By
two we arrived at the floe-edge, and found open water
leading up to the island. Launching the ' Hamilton,'
we effected our landing under oars alone, in less than
two hours.

August 27. This island, viewed at a distance of fif-
teen miles, presented, from its slopes being composed of
red sandstone, a very cheering aspect, and was at first

All distances reckoner! in Ihis narrative are geographic miles.

g

1855.] DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND. 105

simply named Red Island ; but this being the anniver-
sary of Lord Exmouth's action at Algiers, I took pos-
session, with the customary forms, under the title of
Exiuouth Island, which our observations place in lat.
77 15' N., long. 95 50' W.

The western peak I had before selected from Pioneer
Island as my principal station, and from this command-
ing height I had long anticipated a magnificent view
of any lands which might fringe the distant horizon.
Such were my calculations when I went to rest; the
morning of the 28th was bright and cheering, and,
buoyed by hope, gladly did I avail myself of the sun
for the requisite observations for securing my position ;
but in these latitudes time, in every sense, is precious.
Trusting to present appearances, I did not ascend the
mount until afternoon ; and just as I gained the summit,
and not without considerable labour, fog the result of
our fine forenoon enveloped us, cutting off all objects
beyond three miles. We constructed two cairns, and
continued to wander about the summit, and watch most
anxiously until eight at night, for some glimpse; but
snow-drift increasing, and temperature falling to 2.2, we
returned to the beach disappointed.

The bay ice was forming fast, the tide of ebb running
strong to the east, past this island, and towards a new
channel or sea, to which, as yet, we had not traced land ;
it was simply a continuation of Jones' Sound, in ima-
gination. The flood set due west ; both tides had a
velocity, taking the masses of ice carried to windward
as a criterion, of two knots.

Recent marks of deer were noticed, both on the sum-

106 THE PARTY REJOINS.

mit and on tlie slopes, particularly in the now frozen
watercourses, which here form numerous radii from the
mountain, and where antlers and skulls were frequently
found imbedded in the loose sand. Geese, ducks, ptar-
migan, and hares must have prevailed in great numbers ;
but we only noticed about twenty brent-geese, which
alighted near us, and were too wary to afford us a meal.
The formation is red sandstone, capped about twenty
feet on the summit by fossiliferous limestone, in which
some large bivalves (pectens, etc.) and some bones were
found, unfortunately broken before they were brought
to me. Beneath this limestone, the rock is swinestone
to about three-quarters from the base, the entire height
being 567 feet. In the sandy bed of one of the large
gullies a large ball of iron pyrites was found, at first
mistaken by one of my crew for a six-pound shot, and
brought to me as belonging to one of the missing ships.
Some very slight traces of coal were noticed at the wash
of the sea, but none in situ on the island. No marks of
natives were noticed, notwithstanding all these signs of
game abounding at some seasons. Vegetation, on the
great belt of this island, appeared to be more luxuriant
than we have elsewhere witnessed in this region.

August 29. This being Sunday, I had made up my
mind to remain at all events for the day, and eventually
even until the rejoining of the absentees. Our scouts
soon reported the boats in sight, and before noon, fog
still prevailing, Commander Richards and his party re-
joined. They had encamped, the night previous, on a low
island near us, but it was so beset with grounded and
piled ice that even the island had entirely escaped our

1852.] COMMANDER RICHARDS DETACHED. 107

notice ! Richards had taken possession, appointing him-
self " Governor," and the others to various places of trust,
an act long remembered as a joke. Some tern were
noticed, and a young one just born found on the nest :
pretty temperature for rearing it, 22, 10 below freezing !
The intelligence brought by Richards damped me a
little, and caused me to alter my disposition of the ser-
vice. 'Pioneer's' boat, detached to examine the depot,
had met with an accident, by which the men got wet
and the bread damaged, besides injuring more or less all
the dry provision. This compelled me to trust to my
own resources, and alter the entire arrangement of the
Expedition. I therefore gave Richards the direction of
the particular service of exploring the next (Table Island),
and of carrying up the coast-line now discovered to
Village Point. To myself I allotted the examination
of the terra incognita of which I had a glimpse from
Pioneer Island, estimated in my own mind (but, I very
firmly believe, in nubibus, amongst others) at eighteen or
-twenty miles beyond our present position. Fourteen
days' provision for ourselves was deposited here en cache
(with the paws of the bear), and my party were all in
high spirits, with " Pet Hamilton" as our trusty friend.
Richards had already found it laborious work drag-
ging the boat and sledge by relays, and could not there-
fore care much about advance, unless he replaced Mr.
Loney. But Richards was the only qualified person to
command, and to perform the duty required, being a
surveyor. The separation Avas painful and inconvenient,
but the separate command could only confer additional
importance. Another consideration also actuated my de-

108 NIP AND PILING ICE.

cision. I should leave behind me one of niy own offi-
cers, who knew roy intentions and habits thoroughly,
competent to carry out the service, should accident cut
me off, and who would advance, or come himself with,
the necessary supplies, or aid, in the event of my absence
being prolonged beyond a reasonable period.

Shortly after noon he parted for the eastward, in the
full hope of achieving something new. I reasceuded
the unfortunate mountain with the same ill-success, but
before starting directed the tent to be struck, and the
bivouac shifted to the opposite side of the island. My
readers will, I fear, charge me with presumption, but
possibly I may pay the penalty before the cruise termi-
nates. But our business is to view all obstacles as to
be overcome : "nothing risk, nothing gain."

During my detention on this southern and western
point, 1 happened to stray with my gun to the beach, and
whilst there heard the peculiar groaning of pressure, or
" nip." At first I was unable to distinguish from whence
the cause proceeded, but in a few minutes, after watch-
ing the dreary white sheet until vision became very im-
perfect, I noticed, first, an arching of the floe (prevailing
here from three to four feet in thickness), then its dis-
ruption, and the flakes of ice piling one above another
in slabs, until they became influenced by some greater
obstruction near the land. Then a very different ac-
tion ensued. Instead of the great slabs of ice, the op-
posing and unyielding forces, being nearly equal, caused
a comminution, and the powdered substance, resembling-
white sugar in appearance, tumbled down most gracefully
over the before-accumulated slabs, involving all in one

1852.]

QUIT EXMOUTH ISLAND.

109

smooth detritus, which (eventually filled in with snow, and
freezing into a mass) puzzles us so much, and induces us,
without verification, to suspect the masses to be "bergs."
But this is but a trivial illustration of the " ice motion"
in, and to the northward of, the " Queen's Channel." It
is fearful to think of the possibility of Franklin's ships
entering this region, " to be driven by the pack;" no hope
of escape could be entertained : and therefore most sin-
cerely do I wish they cannot have passed up ; for as to
traces, none could exist, subject to such accumulated
clangers as are hourly apparent. But this is more pe-
culiarly forced upon my mind by the events of today.
From the summit we noticed the breaking-up of a very
great extent of floe, immediately in our neighbourhood :
nothing but a diagram can sufficiently illustrate it.

Let the reader imagine the white sheet spread beneath
him, suddenly to exhibit the deep blue sea in the cracks,

and then to notice this immense surface, some hundred
acres, perhaps loosened by no apparent cause, from late-

110 LAND ON NORTH CORNWALL. \Augnst,

ral pressure, fall asunder, float off, and disperse, form-
ing in the space of au hour a dense " pack." Where,
then, is the security of docking? It would prove end-
less labour to dock, unless our missing navigators should
in the present instance happen to be to the north of
this great opening, when they might push some twenty
miles westerly, but never again, I fear, in these high
latitudes, to recover easting!

About nine P.M., having utterly failed in gaining even
enough to guide me in the direction of " the wished-for
haven," and having the only consolation, that as far as
I could see in the direction where I knew it must be,
open water prevailed to a limited distance, I quitted the
mountain, perfectly confident however of success, or
that we should reach it by water.

August 30. Three days had now elapsed, and yet all
in mist ; the weather had slightly improved, and the sea
was apparently open in our intended course : the wind
also was favourable for the blindfold expedition. We
packed, and started under canvas, the tent-poles serving
as sheers or mast, and the tent-bottom as sail, furnish-
ing us completely in the most approved rig of the Malay
pirate prahu.

At a quarter past eight we left the shore, and pro-
ceeded at a very cheering rate, steering by the sun ; but
the breeze failing shortly after noon, we had recourse to
paddles. About one, we made out terra firma; but as my
western object was clearly defined from Pioneer Peak,
and I felt great confidence in " first sight," I pushed on
for it, well aware that a latitude alone, obtained there,
would secure its position beyond dispute. About a

1852.] GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. Ill

quarter past two P.M. we effected a landing within the
floe-edge, and about five miles from the north-western
and extreme Point of this land.

Of this new territory I now took possession for our
Gracious Queen, with the customary form, calling it,
in compliment to His Royal Highness the Heir Apparent,
" North Cornwall." Sir Edward Parry having adopted
the western counties, Somerset, Devon, etc., the Scilly
Isles, when discovered, remain for some more fortunate
explorer. I know not whether "Duke of Arctic Corn-
wall" may be added, but we drank the health of His
Royal Highness most sincerely, to that title.

Thick weather succeeded, but knowing how fickle
Dame Nature is in these regions, I determined not to be
caught napping. Proceeding inland, to the nearest ac-
cessible height which would command a northern as well
as western range, we advanced about three miles. The
view obtained was not indeed satisfactory, but we per-
haps were too greedy. I saw enough to satisfy me that
our present position was insular, and that no northern
or western land was near. I have deemed the distance
three miles, to be within bounds ; but looking to the
angles obtained from Pioneer Peak, I could not be less
than five miles from the western point of the island, and
our elevation not less than eight hundred feet. The ra-
vines are deeply channelled out of a very friable sand-
stone, in the bottoms of which I noticed large masses
of clay ironstone, septaria, and nodules of iron pyrites.
Coal was also found, but disseminated, and impossible to
trace in situ. Bivalves, apparently of recent origin, and
having the cartilage hinge perfect, were abundant.

112 GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. \AliyUst.

This is matter of grave consideration. When, or did
the sea ever invade these heights? Yet the cartilagi-
nous hinge was perfect, and the epidermis in many in-
stances scarcely removed. Birds may have placed these
shells ; but with our knowledge of this climate, prevail-
ing ice, and the scarcity of animal life especially, this
is scarcely credible. I cannot, will not, at present say
more. This friable sandstone and sand, interspersed on
the surface with boulders of granite, and almost garnet
masses, constitutes the principal features of the land on
the west of North Cornwall.

113

CHAPTER V.

Retreat. Land's End of North Cornwall. Pell Point. Table Island.
Chased by a Walrus. Sledge breaks in. Danger from the lee.
Observatory erected. Second Autumnal Expedition. Traces of
Gold. Gale and Disruption of Ice. Oomiak constructed. Walrus
food. The ' Eider-duck.' Gain the Land-ice. Keach Point Re-
pose. Return to the Ship.

ABOUT eight P.M. it commenced snowing heavily, and
not feeling very certain about our road back, we beat
our retreat for the beach, selecting the apparently best
ravine. We followed it up, and fortunately came out
about five hundred yards north of the tent. On the floe
edge we noticed one very large seal, and on the land a
track of fox, but of no other animal, nor any traces of
Esquimaux. We estimated the north-western point of
the island from our elevated position to be five miles,
equidistant from us and the tent.

August 31. -On the morning of this last day of Au-
gust we experienced thick moist snow, temperature 30,
with the sun shining at intervals between the falls of
snow and passing clouds, tantalizing us considerably,
particularly near noon. Fortunately I succeeded in ob-
taining the latitude and true bearing of our stations on

VOL. I. I

114 LAND'S END OF NORTH CORNWALL. [September,

Exmouth and Table Islands, but no objects beyond these
also secured last evening. The result places our ob-
serving position in latitude 77 34' N., and by the true
bearing of Exmouth Island in longitude 96 20' "W.,
exactly coinciding with the tangent obtained from Pio-
neer Peak, and infinitely preferable to any chronometer
longitude. The west extreme therefore will be in latitude
77 39' N., and longitude 96 15' W., and the Land's
End of North Cornwall, the north-western extreme of
the island, seen from the hill, probably in 77 45' N., and
then trending about N. 30 E.

September].. Our insidious enemy, the floe, had played
us a trick, hemmed us in, and left no escape by water.
But, supported by the picked men of the 'Assistance,'
no trifling difficulties could stop us. We therefore, after
a somewhat heavy tug over the land, with the boat also
to transport, regained the open water, launched, and
were again on our element. Jack Frost we were civil
to ; he was our insidious enemy, at least in the present
degree. In all his vigour we laughed at him, as then
we should have solid ice, but so long as he maintained
the Christian symbol (+) he was to be dreaded.

Here we have reached the exciting 1st of September;
and yet, although these regions have been portrayed as
teeming with animal Me, I much doubt if even the
sharpest Esquimaux would find anything worthy to
present to his lovely wife and daughters on tins even-
ing ,- even bears and foxes seem to be forgotten, or pro-
bably have not volunteered for this service. After we
quitted the shore, some few timid seals put their inqui-
sitive heads above water, as if to inquire the cause of

1852.] ENCAMP ON PELL POINT. 115

our visit, but were soon satisfied. Indeed the aspect of
nature throughout presented that heavy gloorn which
should accompany this very type of barren solitude.
Palling along the coast for a period of six hours, and
estimating the distance traversed to be about seventeen
miles, we reached the southern angle of the island,
where the first high jutting heads frown upon the coast-
line, which, in the interval from our late station, pre-
sented but a succession of low spits and creeks, pro-
bably intersecting this part of the island ; and at one
opening, about five miles from the western station, a
narrow strait appeared to divide that portion into a se-
parate island.

Under a pair of high " double cliffs" we pitched our
tent ; the snow was deep for the season, and no vegeta-
tion to be traced. At sunrise on the 2nd of September,
every prospect of a bright, clear day promised, and I
succeeded in obtaining the sun, as well as angles to Ex-
mouth and Table Islands, but the snow still continued
to fall, baffling further exertions. I ascended the high
land commanding the eastern horizon, which at that
time was very clear, but no land could be traced easterly
of Table Island. The eastern limit of North Cornwall I
was enabled to trace about fifteen miles, where it seemed
to terminate in a low spit, and then turn abruptly to the
north.

I have therefore but little doubt that this great east-
ern space connects with Jones and Smith Sounds, or the
Polar Ocean, on which the search of the next season
will doubtless throw more light. Our business, it is true,
does not so much concern geographical discovery, as the

i 2

116 OPINION ON THE OPEN WATER. [September,

most scrutinizing search, not only for vessels, but for
persons or their traces ; and, however confident our opi-
nions may be that they could not exist for such a length-
ened period in this vicinity, still no excuse would be sa-
tisfactory, if we failed to silence the conjectures of those
who might even imagine that any reasonable spot, to
which access to them would perhaps be impossible, had
not been rigorously examined. That duty yet remains
to be executed, God willing ; and in the prosecution of
that duty, it may yet be our lot to determine if Sir John
left any record in the so-called " Jones Sound." It is
far from impossible that his vessels may have entered
this region, and have drifted even thus far. If they
reached this open water by Jones or Smith Channels,
my impression is that they would endeavour to gain the
northern water, and may be anywhere within the pa-
rallel of 80, but I doubt it exceedingly. The latitude
of this position was determined to be in 77 29' N.,
longitude 95 W., variation 141 18' W. It received the
name of Pell Point.

In this region, where the tides or currents are scarcely
obstructed by islands, and run with some velocity, rip-
ping up the floe like paper, much open water must of
necessity prevail, and possibly still more so to the north-
ward. This may oifer the means of drift to and fro,
but not the means of navigation ; nor do these islands
afford either sustenance, chance of harbour, or refuge.
That they are not washed by any free currents from
Asia or America, the total absence of even a particle of
drift would seem to infer. The young ice threatened to
annoy us ; and a stretch of seventeen miles, under such

1852.] LAND ON TABLE ISLAND. 117

circumstances, was not certainly without risk ; but who
knows of any other work here even in our brown-paper
boat ! Our safer course was, no doubt, by the floe ; but
no floe was at hand to aid us. Cutting the matter very
short, we launched, toiled hard, experienced a nasty,
toppling sea, but eventually got up to Table Island,
fetching about ten miles to leeward of our intended
port. Nevertheless we were grateful to reach the shore,
and made the most of it; but heavy "pancake ice" in-
tervened between us and our haven. I required but one
glance of the eye from our ice-mate, Bond, never behind
in corn-age at this work : I knew that he did not object.
In we went, and, by dint of labour, spooning, rolling,
and eventually getting a line to the ice aground, slept
on shore that night ! Very much delighted indeed were
all of us, and if the 'Hamilton' could blush but she
was painted yellow she must have felt very uneasy at
her praises, so very broadly expressed. One Irishman
declared that he would either buy her, or have just such
another built, and make his fortune on some lake in
Ireland. " Well done, little Hamilton ! " often burst
from my lips ; and many a good cruise yet do I expect
her to bear me through, before she be laid up in Green-
wich. Here we are then, nolens volcns, cast ashore on
Table Island. This particular spot attracted my atten-
tion from the summit of Exmouth Island, and I had in-
structed Commander Richards to examine it, and place
marks. I fully expected to be able to haul our boat
over into a magnificent harbour, formed by the low land
encircling nearly the western head ; but the neck, which
at ten miles appeared but a thread, was now found to be

118 CHASED BY A WALRUS. [September,

nearly a mile, and the whole interior of the harbour one
sheet of ice. To this harbour I gave the name of
Londesborough, and to its point Grimston.

September 3. During the night the current had for-
tunately swept away the ice from our harbour, and left
us free to pursue our journey. The morning was fine,
beautifully clear, and the sea westerly open to Exmouth
Island. Ascending one of the commanding hills, I ob-
tained a view of the leading features of this island, as
well as a station in connection with some of those erected
by Captain Richards. The breeze favouring, about eight
A.M. we put to sea, and succeeded in reaching Exmouth
Island shortly after noon ; lunched, took up our cache
of provision, and, as the wind continued favourable, lost
no further time. Winter was now approaching most un-
mistakably in earnest, and a few hours might render our
work either very laborious or very simple. The change
which a few days had made here was impressive ; I could
hardly recognize the features of our late encampment,
and the beach was only by dint of great labour acces-
sible. The main floe was in motion, and continued to
press easterly ; but the breeze increasing with heavy
snow, and the tide setting strong to windward (west-
erly), and driving heavy pieces of ice end on to the floe,
forcing the boat also so strongly on it as to damage her,
rendered decision necessary. I therefore quitted the floe
and made sail, but right glad were we to seek shelter
for the night on " Governor Richards' Island." Chased,
I believe, by the identical old walrus before alluded to
at the commencement of our trip, we felt very queer,
and as he muttered some unintelligible warnings, we
were excessively civil.

pl
I

i

1852.] BRIDGING GAPS. 119

We were fortunate in reaching this island : the sea
was getting troublesome, the boat refused to steer by the
oar, and she was fast filling; one dash of spray, and our
castles would be demolished ; any impudent wave might
have given us a wetting which would have rendered that
night comfortless. Every such incident as that before
my eyes forcibly brings to my mind the utter helpless-
ness of any of our unfortunate missing friends. One
wetting, without the means which we possessed of dry-
ing themselves, would have destroyed their energies.

On the morning of the 4th September, the wind hav-
ing lulled, we launched our boat, and pushed forward to
avail ourselves of the yet open water. About noon we
succeeded in effecting our disembarkation on the floe,
and, after luncheon, recommenced floe-travelling. Shortly
after we discovered the other party in-shore of us, under
the land. At one of our halting-places, Commander
Richards and Dr. Lyall came up with us, and having
spared them part of our provisions, we resumed our pro-
gress, fully expecting that they would overtake us at our
resting-place, for which object we shortened our march.
They evidently made heavier work, and pitched one mile
short of us.

September 5. Having nothing further to detain us, we
made the best of our way to Village Point, expecting to
reach it this night ; but the half-frozen lanes, breaking
repeatedly, considerably retarded us ; latterly however I
contrived, on some occasions where it was very narrow,
to bridge the passage by floating pieces of ice cast into
the gap, and by a dexterous run over our floating bridge,
got safely across before it became immersed. Owing to

120 SLEDGE BREAKS IN. [September,

such delays, we were compelled to encamp at evening,
still distant from Village Point.

On the 6th we experienced a fine, sunny, lovely day,
and pushed forward at 8.30; but, still retarded by the
difficulties before alluded to, it was not until 8.30 P.M.
that our advanced party, with the boat alone, reached
the point. Having pitched the tent, a party was sent
back to bring up the sledge. Unfortunately they had no
officer to lead them, got on to young ice,- broke in,
and very nearly lost one of the crew ; providentially it
did not prove fatal to all, as, from their account of the
matter, they acted very injudiciously, by simultaneously
rushing to the edge of the broken ice, to save their ship-
mate, instead of forming a connected chain to more solid
ice. I almost instantly detected this misfortune, by
noticing a single man on the outline of the snow, wring-
ing his hands and throwing off his boots. Mr. Loney
and others were despatched in aid, but noticing the
remainder of the party showed their heads, I detained
the cook, to prepare hot tea, etc., which the man who
had been immersed very much needed, reaching the
tent, assisted by two others, in a very exhausted state.
He was soon clad in dry clothes, a dose of hot tea and
spirits administered, and packed in his bag ; and by
the time he got warm, a pint of hot chocolate and pem-
mican were ready, to complete him for his slumbers.

September 7. The morning fine, but temperature
18' 5. Moved up to the crest of the peninsula, cross-
ing recent tracks of bears, foxes, and deer ; the latter
either very numerous, or a pair had been making very
extensive gambols, tearing up the grass, etc.

1852.] DANGER FROM OVERLAPPING ICE. 121

Commander Richards was noticed making good pro-
gress down a lane which had opened, and, by the time
we were about to quit the Point, landed to receive his
final orders. We then moved on to Pioneer Island,
to complete our work, and thence to the ship ; but ex-
perienced very difficult work in crossing the young ice,
which threatened several times to press the boat by a
sliear-Uke movement, one sheet overlapping the other,
but she escaped with one hole only in her bows, which I
succeeded in stopping with my silk handkerchief. Un-
fortunately we did not reach the ship this night, but en-
camped on the floe, and fired a rocket almost over their
heads, to warn them of our being near : this, however,
was not seen.

In the morning we pushed forward, and soon joined,
or came upon the track of, the other party, which, by not
having any off-shore duty to execute, had avoided our
difficulties. On opening Mount Beaufort, we noticed
parties from the ship advancing to aid our men ; but I
believe that in the succeeding two hours, until we
reached the ship, more damage and wettings were ex-
perienced than during our whole cruise. This resulted
from the ice being much weaker in this direct line of
greatest tidal force : it is the last portion frozen, and
the earliest thawed. About 4.30 I re-entered my cabin,
quite prepared to enjoy every comfort it might offer.

// inter Operations. The winter had now been com-
pletely established, and the 'Assistance' and tender firmly
frozen in. The customary preparations were made for
housing in the ships ; but as we considered the vessels
tuo secure to require any extraordinary preparations, the

122 OBSERVATORY ERECTED. [September,

topgallantmasts were merely housed, and sails securely
furled.

The absurd fittings of the Sylvester warming-appa-
ratus, requiring the main hold to be nearly cleared be-
fore the fires could be lighted, compelled us to place the
provisions, etc. on shore, as well as the greater part of
our sails, boats, hawsers, etc. In all this I of course ac-
quiesced, because it was the routine of my predecessors ;
but I must say that, for many reasons, I doubted the
propriety. In the case of provision especially, I do not
think that salt meat, subjected to excessively low tem-
perature, is improved, but, on the contrary, vitiated;
first, by the freezing process rupturing every vessel
which before resisted the pickle ; and, secondly, when
thaw takes place, permitting that same pickle to take
greater effect on the meat. It is very near akin to cu-
ring meat or Burnetizing timber by exhaustion.

The Magnetic Observatory, constructed from pieces of
wreck saved in Melville Bay, I found well advanced, and
near to it, beyond any possible influence of the iron em-
ployed, at a distance of twenty yards, one of the cut-
ters was inverted, on supports, to afford a thermometer
house. In this it was purposed to submit all the ther-
mometers supplied, to direct exposure on 180, or half
the circle, facing the south (true). The Observatory was
also fitted for two transits, which could be brought to
act together, independently, or on certain stars at fixed
altitudes. This was eventually given up, and the instru-
ments removed; first, on account of the cold affecting
the clamps, but principally from the breakage of two
levels by meddlers, and, finally, some influence which I

1852.] PREPARATION FOR FURTHER TRAVEL. 123

fancied their steel fittings might have on the more im-
portant movements of the magnetometer.

The walrus, before mentioned at our departure on the
north-east journey, floated or was driven by the pack
near the ship, and its carcase secured by our sportsmen
for the dogs. The body also of one of the others, shot
at a later date, was rescued from a bear, who intended
to devote it to his own use. Several bears had been
shot during my absence, and their carcases also served
to increase our supply of dogs' meat.

The winter operations being in formal progress, and
not requiring the superintendence of heads of depart-
ments, my attention was directed to the conveyance across
the channel, to Cape Lady Frankin and Barrow Island, of
the necessary depots for the spring travellers. This ser-
vice was allotted to Commander Richards. A boat had
been stripped of every useless encumbrance, and a sledge
fitted to carry her. The depot was packed in casks, re-
duced in the stave to the utmost lightness consistent
with security, and the day appointed for this duty was
the 14th September. Our hill-scouts however reported
the ice to be loose, exhibiting suspicious streaks in ah 1
directions ; in fact, the middle-channel ice was still in
motion. I must say that I was not disappointed ; there
had been a manifest pressure from without that I must
follow the motions of my predecessor, without adequate
reason, and as he laid out his caches in autumn, I must,
perforce, follow his example. I certainly was prepared
to do so, where common sense pointed it out as practi-
cable or urgent : neither of these were appreciable at
present, and the risk to men, stores, and anxiety about

124 SECOND AUTUMNAL EXPEDITION. [September,

them, rendered its propriety very questionable. This
fortunate consideration sealed its fate, it was postponed.
But in order to divert our minds to other more important
matters, and to dispel some doubts in my own mind
as to the complete search on the islands skirting the
shore between this and Cape Becher, for traces of our
missing ships, I determined on another small expedi-
tion, with the same force as before, intending to leave
at Cape Becher a record of our late proceedings, and
whereabouts, to guide Commander Pullen in his visit in
May.

Having delayed until after the spring-tide of the
equinox, which period I calculated, from the record
of temperatures on preceding occasions, that from 6 to
10 were the best freezing-points for the sea, when we
might expect the ice would again be compact enough
for travelling, we left the ship on the morning of the
21st September, in the teeth of a southerly wind and
the snow in our faces, with thermometer at 10. I was
persuaded to leave the 'Hamilton' behind, as the small
pack-ice might destroy her ; but I had reason to regret it.
The expedition consisted of the same sledges and crews
as before, but without the surgeon and Mr. Grove, and
we had only fourteen days' provision. Our journey lay
for twelve miles, at least, over the smooth floes of North-
umberland Sound, through its neck (or channel whenever
thaws permit) into Baring Bay. But as this was also
a service of survey, we had frequently to stop, ascend
heights, and construct cairns: these matters will not
much interest the general reader I shall therefore skim
lightly over the surface. Our first halt for the night

1852.] TRACES OF GOLD FOUND. 125

was under the slope of a long tongue from Mount Percy,
forming the channel between that island and the main.

The next morning we moved on to Glacier Bluff, and
Commander Richards ascended the mountain which caps
it (named Blanche, after one of the Banner ladies), whilst
we were engaged constructing a cairn beneath. One of
the crew, noticing a bright streak on one of the stones
struck by the pickaxe, exclaimed, " Gold, Sir!" As the
rock was a heavy piece of quartz, I stooped to inspect
it ; but thinking it to be merely a vein of iron pyrites,
ordered it to remain undisturbed, as I was then using
the instrument, and ultimately a piece was broken off
for future examination. The large piece was also in-
serted in the pile, with a case of pemmican, to await our
return. There was little fear of desertion to these dig-
gings ! However, I kept the development of our riches
for our return. On this expedition I also brought the
dog-sledge and three of our Cape York dogs, which car-
ried me and about forty pounds' weight of instruments
very cleverly. From the summit of Mount Blanche
the highest in this region Commander Richards had a
good view, reporting "the ice close and apparently firm."

This Point received the name of Pemmican Station,
and is the commanding jutting tongue of the northern
narrows, or the pre-supposed neck of what we had be-
lieved to be Percy Peninsula, but now clearly defined as
a very narrow boat-channel.

We pitched our tent for the night on the outer head
of this entrance or bight of Baring Straits (?), giving
it the name of Point Repose. The terraced nature of
the land here afforded good shelter, on fine gravel, from

126 NEW CURE FOR A BROKEN NECK. [September,

easterly winds ; and beneath, in warmer times, a very snug
little yacht harbour might be available within a tongue
of projecting shingle. But the ice on which we were
now to try our chance was most unpromising. The
' Hamilton' could only have been conveyed on her own
carriage ; indeed, would have been deposited here pro tern.

On the morning of the 23rd we advanced towards the
outer island, the western extreme of which forms Point
Sophia of the old chart, The travelling was difficult, by
reason principally of newly broken young ice, of every
imaginable angle, cemented together by the late frosts.
Over this, as it jarred my limbs walking, I tried the
dog-sledge, which answered admirably on the smooth
ice ; but meeting with an awkward lump, I experienced
a most unpleasant summerset, inflicting rather a severe
concussion to my head and neck, which had been in-
jured on the 1st of October, 1850, by a fall. As this
accident occurred to the opposite side, it tended to cure
it ; but the remedy would not, I suspect, be prescribed,
even in these days of innovation. (I have since perfectly
recovered.)

We reached the island in safety, landed, and erected
our cairn. I found the rock to be composed of a dullish
dirty brown, sometimes variegated, swinestone, probably
susceptible of polish; it frequently exhibited veins or
layers of chert, the sharp fragments of which rendered it
very unpleasant to travel over. As this island was one
of the dreams of Penny, I retained Point Sophia, and
added Cracroft Island, in compliment to his enterprising
spirit. On my descent, I found some of the party an-
noying a few ducks in a pool of water ; but as they could

1852.] REACH HUNGRY ISLAND. 137

neither kill, nor get them if killed, I thought we might-
stand a better chance hereafter by not now coming to
hostilities.

Our party was now divided, Commander Richards
being directed to seek the outer point of the next
large island, and shaping my own course to its inner
point, hoping thereby to save time and labour. Our
sledge broke in and wetted some articles, but we reached
our destination without further accident. The latter
part of the journey was attended with considerable
anxiety, owing to the rotten state of the ice. Com-
mander Richards had a cold bath ; and even when we
had reached within a few yards of our destination, land-
ing was doubtful, and only effected under great caution,
taking some of the light weights first, over the new bay
ice, by the dog-sledge. Having encamped, I ascended
the highest hill, which commanded a great range, and
obtained my observations. The temperature fell to 8,
and our prospects were at present propitious, with every
probability of the ice strengthening. It is, perhaps, ven-
turing almost too much upon English ideas of tempera-
ture, but it is no more strange than true, that, with this
temperature, 24 below the freezing-point, some of us
were wishing it, at least for a period, lower ! Our pre-
sumption, possibly, was to be punished.

Before morning on the 24th September we had it at
20, with a strong breeze from east, and much snow-
drift. I began to feel great, anxiety about Commander
Richards and his party, having given him instructions
to proceed on to the projecting point of the next island,
if his work was executed in time. Mr. Loney was de-

128 GALE AND DISRUPTION OF ICE. [September,

spatched to seek him, and luckily finding him at our
opposite point, delivered rny instructions to rejoin rne
with all despatch. This indeed was imperative, as he
was on the most exposed part of the island, and was
but too glad to reach our more sheltered position. They
encamped beside us near noon.

The result of this gale, with temperature increasing,
was obvious. The ice gradually broke up, and drifted
away piece by piece ; and " short commons," if not
worse, was to me apparent. I did not hesitate on petty
measures, but instantly ordered the reduction to half al-
lowance, and our attention was further directed to the
best mode of relief. My own plans had been already
formed ; I therefore merely dropped the hint that I in-
tended to build a boat, leaving any brighter intellect
to " furnish plans and estimates."

Unless calm prevailed at least for three days, aided by
low temperatures, we had no hope of escape, even to the
mainland ! It is true that the entire ice had not yet
broken up, but it would not bear our weight, even across
to the southern island.

September 25, Saturday. The wind abated ; tempe-
rature 11 at noon. The sergeant wounded a walrus, but
it was beyond our reach ; and several eider-ducks were
swimming in the pools, but as they could not be ob-
tained, even if killed, orders were issued to reserve the
ammunition. In the evening the wind shifted to the
northward, and the temperature fell to 8. The slum-
bers of those who slept were probably pleasanter, but
prayers for lower temperature, or intense cold, possibly
had not before been so devoutly offered (?).

1852.] CAPTURE A WALRUS. 129

September 26. This day was calm and serene, but
the sun's bright rays had little charm for us. I strolled
to the eastern point, and found the ice strong enough
to bear three men, who walked across to the southern
island. But on their return, their report proved but a
damper to our hopes : the channel between it and the
main was " open water." The evening was beautifully
clear and serene, but the wind again drew round to east,
and the tempera tiire rose to 13, sure indication of fur-
ther bad weather. About sunset I shot a walrus, which
remained on the floe-piece probably mortally wounded,
but we were unable to reach it. At dark, about eight,
and again at nine, rockets were sent up, to indicate to
the ship our position and want of assistance. From the
hill-summit I thought I could see Mount Beaufort, or
the land immediately behind her; but our hopes were
vain our eyes were strained to no purpose no reply !
Once I was mistaken by the sudden unveiling of Venus,
just at the spot where I expected to discover the signal
or burst of the rocket.

Early on Monday, the 27th, the wind increased, with
snow, sleet, etc. ; ice breaking up, and sweeping past us.
The shout of " A walrus close to, and drifting in-shore,"
caused no little excitement, particularly amongst my
own energetic men. Bond, the ice-quartermaster, aided
by another, put off on a piece of loose ice, with a line
fast to the shore, and succeeded in hooking it with
a boat-hook, by which means he drew it to the shore,
where it was soon secured. No sooner was this done
than some few more oozed out of their bags. But this
did not suit. " All hands secure walrus !" brought each

VOL. I. K

130 SNOW HOUSES. [September,

man to his duty, and the agreeable monster was secured,
cut up, and deposited at the tents a most acceptable
boon in every way. It not only secured our existence
until the ice re-formed, but afforded plenty of that next
blessing to food, the means of cooking and obtaining
water -fuel. Now might be heard the discussion of
who killed it : of this I cared not, we caught it, and it
was yet warm, and good food. It had been shot in the
throat, a wound generally fatal, and causing them to seek
the floe to die. Another gratifying feeling was also af-
forded me that our dogs would find sustenance ; for
the loss of them, by starvation or compxilsion to kill,
would have distressed me considerably, next indeed to
personal misfortune.

It continued to blow hard, with sleet, rendering our
labours very harassing ; but activity and employment
for mind as well as body must be found. I had great
difficulty to contend with. Snow-walls were ordered to
be built round our encampment ; and, as it occurred to
me that this would prove a convenient moment for prac-
tising our men in house-building, I superintended per-
sonally, as chief mason, in this practice.

On Tuesday, the 28th, the wind shifting more south-
erly, and no "plans or estimates" for the boat having
been sent in, I proceeded to work in my own way ; and
I must say, although the others volunteered, when she
was constructed, to command her, that Mr. Loney did
so before I commenced, in the full confidence of suc-
cess attending. However, volunteers do not guide me ;
I select those to whom I intend to entrust the duty,
and Commander Richards would have been selected.

1852.] OOMIAK CONSTRUCTED. 131

Taking one runner-sledge as my framework for an oo-
111 iak, and two flat sledges for the ends, it will clearly be
seen that the rudiments were in a state for completion ;
ribs were then brought up at each runner-bearer, rising
about one foot above the sledge ; and to this, oomiak-
fashion, I formed my gunwale by fom' light spars, two
of tough China mahogany, and two bamboos used for
yards, for sledge sails : by a little straining these were
brought nearly together at each end, and cross-pieces
lashed. It was, indeed, to those versed in Esquimaux
boat-building, the oomiak, or woman's boat. It only
remained to cover this properly ; tin's was effected by
the canvas-bottom cloths and Mackintoshes of the tents,
so as to form two layers.

The object was, to convey to the main a party with
one day's provision and their sleeping-bags, who would
walk on to the ship and forward to us in due time the
necessary relief. As the three leading officers of the
vessels and twenty-seven persons were thus cut off, I
determined to remain alone with my own men and Mr.
Loney, sending Commander Richards, Lieutenant Osborn,
and any others who could not eat walrus, by the boat.

He was to have started early the next morning, and
his orders were already written ; but as the equinoctial
spring-tide here would not occur before 2.30 on Thurs-
day, I determined to defer it until that event had passed.
To oppose the antipathies of any set of men, is absurd,
is making them of too much importance. I dislike
pcnimican, never would touch it if I could avoid it,
because I consider that it is, to me, unwholesome food ;
many of my crew also refused it for some time : I con-
ic 2

132 REFLECTIONS ON WALRUS FOOD. [September,

tinned to eat it for example sake. Others also dislike
particular birds. But my principle invariably is, to
endeavour to make anything fit for food palatable, and,
setting aside my inclinations, to make it suit my pur-
pose. I would not prefer whale or walrus flesh to the
best beefsteak, but I would most assuredly prefer the
best whale or walrus to many meats termed beef. Of
this walrus I not only partook heartily, but I think that
I overcame the objection of many, and that thereby
they gained a wholesome and nourishing food, instead
of semi-starvation. I had almost forgotten to mention
that, in order to prove our boat, I started with four
hands in chase of some ducks in the open water, killed
four, aud a grey doveky, which were divided as four
w r ould be by three, the lawyer taking the remainder for
his pains ; they afforded, with walrus and bacon, a very
acceptable meal.

On the 29th we experienced strong gales from east-
south-east, which caused the ice to break up rapidly and
drift off. The tide at noon today rose beyond its ordi-
nary level, carrying off all the heavy grounded masses of
ice, and denuding the shores of the island to the gravel ;
an occurrence of sea-washed beach not witnessed by us
since the 28th of August.

On the 30th, the wind having changed to the south-
west during the night, the loose ice packed in upon us,
and toward the evening it moderated greatly, leaving a
fine, clear night, with a temperature of 22, but much
too warm for our excited feelings. At nine I made the
preconcerted signal to the ship for assistance, viz. two
rockets. Venus showing between the passing clouds at

1S5~.] LAUNCH THE 'EIDER DUCK.' 133

the very spot where our attention was directed, afforded
the suggestion that she accepted the compliment, But
nothing of this nature from the ship was noticed, a
matter becoming about this moment painfully exciting.

I had omitted, amongst such serious considerations,
to notice the launch of our new vessel. It is usual in
lower latitudes, or in the regions of the grape (or even
of malt), to christen such bantlings with the customary
honours ; but on the occasion of our launch there was
nothing at hand but snowballs, and in sober sulkiness
she took the water under the appellation of ' The Eider
Duck.'

Commander Richards became very anxious to make
the attempt to cross ; but with the rough packed ice
this was not safe. Indeed I had determined not to risk
our all on any ill-considered experiments.

On Sunday, the 3rd of October, was our day of rest.
Many solicitations to cross were repeated ; but I had no
confidence in anything around me, and I felt that when
I ceased to command, then the spirits of my best men
would flag, and that where difficulty and danger was to
be braved it was my duty to lead. Besides, some unde-
finable feeling prompted me to delay : who shall attempt
to unravel this curious or rather mysterious habit which
has followed my fortunes ? I was firm ; providentially,
I must add, I deferred until the morrow.

On the 4th the temperatures fell successively from
16 to 4; but the ice, although frozen in many parts,
still exhibited very suspicious cracks. Unaccountably I
had now arrived at my determination, why or where-
fore, to myself is inexplicable ; moreover, it was still more

134 GAIN THE LAND ICE. \0ctober,

incomprehensible that the advocates for crossing yester-
day were now adverse ! But that mattered not ; I felt
quite assured of the practicability, if I could cross the
band of smooth ice intervening between us and the pack,
but that would not bear the weight even of one man !

The order " Down tents !" was the first indication of
my resolve. The ice was broken, and a channel for the
'Eider Duck' cut by spades; it closed, was cut again,
and eventually, not without much trouble, all our ef-
fects were ferried by our valuable oomiak to the solid
ice. The 'Eider Duck' underwent immediate transfor-
mation, worthy of any pantomime, her various parts re-
suming their duties in the sledge equipment. Moving
forward in right earnest towards the main, we reached
it, and lunched on the "laud-floe" at noon. Every one
has his peculiar feelings : we had crossed many cracks,
escaped many serious difficulties, solely by dint of that
activity which results from the innate fear of losing all.
We thus quitted " Hungry Island," a name which I
do not think even Penny will dispute.

I must believe that every individual had his own ear-
nest feelings as each touched the safe shore, or land-ice.
For myself, I felt that the meal was more solemn than
usual. Such sensations are better left uudescribed, for
neither the feelings nor the pen can execute their duty.

Our actual difficulties were yet to be encountered, but
we knew them not. Several wettings were experienced,
and at nightfall, on reaching our most critical position,
we had not found safe landing for the sledges, which
still lagged behind. Fortunately I was in advance with
my dog-sledge, and, trusting to the instinct of the ani-

1852.} REACH POINT REPOSE. 135

mals, which refuse unsafe ice, they selected a safe pas-
sage ; I landed, and, establishing the ferry, sent the dogs
back with the driver to convey our equipment by light
loads on this sledge. Frequent trips increased confi-
dence ; for several had fallen in and got wet, and our
sleeping-bags unfortunately shared the same fate, my
own, I believe, amongst the number. Eventually all
were safely landed, and our tents pitched at Cape Re-
pose. Before ten, I think, thanks to an overruling Pro-
vidence, all were safely landed ; for I am convinced that
no security could have been found that night on the ice,
the temperature having again risen to 23. Many in-
deed had wet beds, but with our warm suppers this was
now but a trifle.

On the morning of the 5th I despatched Commander
Richards with the other sledges to the ship, with two
days' provision, reserving the remainder to complete our
survey. On examining our old quarters, where we had
deposited the dogs' food, we found that it had been
robbed by bears ; but the dogs having devoured their
full travelling allowance of walrus at Hungry Island,
this was less important. Our subsequent motions being
but matters of survey, I shall pass them rapidly. In
our advance to the ship, we called at our North Cali-
fornia for our peinmican, and to seek any further speci-
mens of the precious metals which might turn up. In
the latter search I was unsuccessful. The temperature,
having fallen to 4, was in itself sufficient to check any
ardent pursuit after metals ; they bite as severely in
cold weather as gold does in California or Australia.
About noon \vc met a relief party from the ship, under

136 RETURN TO THE SHIP. \0ctoler.

Mr. Herbert, mate, and Mr. Ricards, assistant-surgeon.
Moving along the coast, we slept in the Sound ; and at
eight the following morning, starting for the ship with
the dog-sledge, were again met by Messrs. Groves and
Pym, who most kindly and charitably shared with us
a very acceptable luncheon of sandwiches and sherry.
About eleven we reached the ship. Never did I enter
my cabin with more unfeigned thankfulness ; not for
myself alone, but for the safety of the fine set of men
who had shared our misfortune, and whom this particu-
lar branch of the Expedition could so ill afford to lose.

137

CHAPTER VI.

The ' Assistance.' Winter Fittings. Moisture between Decks. Me-
teorological Investigations. Tide Gauge. Anatomical Shrimps.
Washhouse. Thoughts on Arctic Fittings. Terraced Levels.
Effects of Tidal Action. Tidal Fissures. Experiments on Ice.
Last View of the Sun. Her Majesty's Arctic Theatre. A Gale.
The Observatory. A Snow-storm.

OUR own miseries terminated, turn we now to the good
ship ' Assistance.' As I had anticipated, the ship had
not been a whit too secure, and the absence of our party
might have entailed censure on me, had any serious mis-
chief occurred. I was informed that the ice had broken
up to within a hundred yards of her bow ; and that, in
the expectation of its proceeding further, warps had been
carried to the main floe to secure her. Had the ice
broken up here, as it did at Hungry Island, there can be
no doubt that she would have been driven on shore ;
but the want of tide prevented this. As it was, the
ice had cleared out up to the southern point of the
Sound, and a sporting party had visited it in one of the
boats, but without any view of relieving our necessities.
Any of the above misfortunes, viewed singly, might
be deemed trivial; but the loss of the principal petty

138 THOUGHTS ON WINTER FITTINGS. [October,

officers and myself might have very much changed the
results of this Expedition.

Our attention must now naturally revert to the com-
pletion of our winter arrangements. The temperature
had not yet afforded sufficient proof of the necessity of
covering our decks with snow, or building walls round
the ship : of the propriety of both these matters I enter-
tained my doubts, and wished further experience before
I committed myself. Of the advantage to be derived
from a good snow-wall, distant about a foot from the
sides, and suffered to fill in with light snow, I had little
doubt ; but the plastering on a non-conductor a solid
body of fine ice, such as the snow-embankment arrives
at eventually, could not prove of much importance. The
matters connected with winter fitting have never met
with a due amount of deliberation in England, or I feel
well satisfied that much better arrangements for secur-
ing the health, as well as comfort of the crew, could be
attained by more simple as well as efficacious means
than those generally adopted. But these matters shovdd
have had full consideration in England, and the means
for carrying them out provided. Beside this, there is a
kind of awkward responsibility attending innovations of
this nature, which, unless founded on something stronger
than mere authority, would induce restless writers to at-
tribute every mischief and misery, however remote from
common sense, to the innovator. Under such reasoning,
the only alternative is " If they were miserable and
sickly before, Captain - found he could not remedy
it ; and therefore, however comfortable the cabins of the
captain and officers may bo, matters must be conducted

1852.] MOISTURE BETWEEN DECKS. 139

as they were by their predecessors." Now, I am firmly
of opinion that Sir John Ross was right as to his system
of ventilation, but carried it on upon such a reduced scale
that it could not act sufficiently. And I feel fully satis-
fied that the evil in these vessels might be remedied by
hatching the present decks, and in winter removing the
crews six feet lower. Such a disposition would avoid
the immediate condensation of breath on the lower deck
beams, resulting in a constant dripping on the lower
deck, and, at night, soaking the bed of every man sleeping
there ! Undue wet and pervading moisture, and that too
charged with the customary constituents of the breath
of men, is but too well known to be the predisposing
cause of scurvy ; and yet, knowing all this, will it be
credited, in the last portion of the nineteenth century,
that horse-sponges are supplied to wipe off this mois-
ture ? a thing only to be discovered in October, when
these drippings commence, and when the daily doleful
report of the surgeon is, " She is so very wet between
decks, Sir." And, as if this should not be a sufficient
warning, I find that vent-holes, to let down cold air, to
increase and keep up this condensation, are actually
opened, when the heat below cannot be maintained at
40, and was frequently, even in my cabin with a stove,
below 20.

This season may pass, and, I sincerely trust, without
any material mischief; but should it be our lot to pass
another here, I have fully made up my mind that, hav-
ing given the plans of my predecessors a fair trial, a very
different system will be enforced, for the future comfort
of all.

140 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. {October,

As Lieutenant Cheyne had brought with him sup-
plied, I understood, chiefly from Kew some very delicate
electrometers, I determined that he should have every
assistance the service admitted for attending to the influ-
ence which the aurora might exercise. To ensure this, he
was excused from other duties, and directed to attend
to the registry of thermometers ; and as it would be in-
convenient to send officers aloft to register thermometers,
I adapted a balance-pole of twenty-eight feet in length, so
that it could be easily pulled down ; to this a minimum
thermometer was attached, to be read at eight A.M., at
noon, and at four P.M. Another plain thermometer was
also fixed at twenty feet, and one of the standards was
placed on pikes at four feet above the earth, near the
Observatory, independent of the general board, contain-
ing fifteen standard thermometers from Kew and Green-
wich, under the boat. The pike-thermometer was regis-
tered hourly with the magnetometer. A very delicate
electrometer was also placed in the Observatory, but
was broken not many hours after by the prying curiosity
of some meddler.

Before the 8th of October the general observations on
the magnetometer were supposed to commence; at all
events, the registry dates from noon of that day. The
officers who volunteered for that duty were Lieutenant
May, Mr. Herbert, Mr. Grove, Mr. Pym, mates, and
Messrs. Harwood and Webb, engineers, of the ' Pioneer.'
The observations were continued hourly, both night and
day, throughout the winter, up to July. Various other
observations were carried on by myself, at the instance
of Mr. Glaisher, of the Royal Observatory, Greenwich,

- - / // ft//-, , ,- -'.- ',' '

1852.] TIDE-GAUGE ESTABLISHED. 141

who supplied, by authority of the Admiralty, a most
valuable suite of thermometers and other instruments,
and spared no exertion to afford valuable information
and suggestions for their management.

As the decrease of temperature would soon prevent
the accurate registry of the tides by our tide-pole on
shore, I made some experiments on the true rise and fall
of the ship, now firmly frozen into the floe, so as to guide
me in selecting her as the index of floatation, or tidal
level. To determine this truly, I placed the theodolite
so that the level wire should coincide with a zero mark
on a batten nailed on the ship's side. This instrument
being fixed, the readings at each inch, above or below,
being compared with the tide-pole already established
near the shore, and found to be nearly identical in fact,
those indicated by the ship being more decidedly even
I had no further hesitation in adopting her as my in-
tended gauge. The modus operand! instantly occurred
to me, and I at once determined to make it a plaything
or complete piece of machinery. This required a little
labour in my cabin, but it was soon constructed, and told
its own tale, marking the inches of rise or fall by agi-
tating a bell. As it will be better understood by a dia-
gram, I must refer my readers to it for explanation.

All seamen will understand the matter without diffi-
culty, but I fear that I may not be so fortunate with
civilians. It must however be apparent to all, that by
affixing a large as well as heavy weight to a rope, and
sinking it to the bottom, the weight, provided the bot-
tom be firm or gravelly, would gradually acquire a steady
position by agitation. This done (at a) below water, and

142 TIDE-GAUGE DESCRIBED. \0dober,

previously well secured, a good spar was lashed to tins
rope, and a fair strain kept on it for some days. The
rope thus became frozen like a solid wire ; the upper
end of this pole was connected by an iron clasp, with a
flat moulding or clock-chain formed of oak and copper.
To ensure its being at all times perpendicular, as in
pump-work in mines, etc., the radius pieces b b were at-
tached with channels for the chain to work in. This
balance-beam acted in a metal-formed crutch, with pin,
and was attached at the inner end by a similar chain
to the gauge-rod, which alone was sufficiently ballasted
to preserve a steady and even strain for the descent of
the gauge. Externally, to keep the pole steady to its
work and at a constant tension, an additional lever-
balance was employed, with a strain equal to 56 Ibs.
It is clear, then, that the bottom weight being too
heavy to be moved by any ordinary force, that the rise
of the ice, or ship, must draw up the index-bar; and,
being of itself considerably heavier than the outer pole,
etc., the descent of the ship must cause it to fall. All
this being covered by the housing iu-board, was pro-
tected from snow or any other inconvenience, and the
gauge occupied on the quarter-deck the position of the
wheel unshipped for the winter. Beside it, was a tem-
porary table and a lantern, illuminating the graduation,
and enabling the person watching to register it. But
our mode of registry, by equal altitudes, requiring the
time at each inch of rise or fall, a ratchet, or notched
edge, was cut on one side of the movable slide, which
acting on a one-toothed wheel, caused it to draw from its
perpendicular a plane board, at the lower end of which a

1852.] ANATOMICAL SHRIMPS. 143

spring-bell was attached. At the instant this tooth be-
came released, at the passage of the inch division, the
board, ballasted with the bell, in its attempt to recover
a vertical position, vibrated over the described arc, and
cansed the alarum to warn the observer to note time.
At one period I contemplated leading it by a fine brass
rod into my cabin, but I soon found I had quite enough
of other matter to occupy my attention. After this had
acted satisfactorily for some days, in comparison with
the gaiige on shore, the latter was removed, the ice form-
ing too fast about it to be of further use.

The gauge in the diagram is ascending past twelve
feet seven inches; at twelve feet eight inches the bell,
being drawn up to the side of the gauge-frame, will
vibrate, on its release, nearly to the same distance that
it was drawn out of the perpendicular, the tooth of the
wheel being so calculated as to pass freely at the instant
of release at each inch, and is not taken up again until
it has moved over a quarter of an inch. This alarum
eventually became troublesome, and, finding the atten-
tion of the observer coidd be ensured, it was latterly
muffled.

Our specimen-net was sent down, charged with the
heads of bears and other animals, to be cleaned by the
shrimps, as they are termed, but a species of Oniscus or
sea-louse. Two eels* were taken, which rather discoun-
tenances the idea of their not bearing cold ; I am not
quite sure, however, that they were truly eels. The take
of these Crustacea was so plentiful, and they were so large,
that some of our gourmands attempted to substitute
* This question not decided.

144 WASHHOTJSE. [Ocfo6e>;

them for shrimps ; and they possibly answered quite as
well, if the shells at least are eaten in both cases : De
gustibus, etc.

The washhouse for the crew was constructed on shore,
composed of blocks of snow, now sufficiently frozen to
be easily handled, and cut by snow-knives into any re-
quired forms, much resembling the working of very soft
Gloucestershire oolite. Unfortunately our Surveyor-Ge-
neral of Works had miscalculated his ground ; and after
the walls were up, the rise and fall of tide caused cer-
tain ominous gapings in the gables, which was but par-
tially remedied by disconnecting the laud-floe by a ditch.
However, this not being deemed satisfactory, a new inner
wall was constructed, making another parallel room or
double house. This is another feature of Arctic arrange-
ment which does not suit my views of economy of fuel,
of comfort, or sound judgment. First, the expenditure of
coal is wasted out of the ship ; next, the men are sent
to light a fire with wood, etc., in a cold house, and ex-
pend half the fuel before the copper is warmed. The
temperature there is too cold, especially when the ther-
mometer falls to 62, for such operations as washing ;
and before the clothes can be wrung properly, they are
a mass of ice, and the shivering unfortunates are seen,
with their clothes half washed and ice-bound, wending
their way across the floe to the ship for what ? to
carry below into fhe main hold, beside the Sylvester ap-
paratus, these masses of ice, to be converted into vapour,
and diffused between decks. Verily, there are too many
ways of inviting sickness without this ! but " it was
done before," is the reply.

1852.] THOUGHTS ON ARCTIC FITTINGS. 145

I purposely introduce these remarks, not in any man-
ner as a reflection on my predecessors, who, I am con-
vinced, were quite as much alive as myself to every pre-
caution for the preservation of the health and comfort
of their men, but to show what a very difficult position
a man of common sense is placed in, when he accepts
such a command. He can hardly be deemed a free agent ;
he is pestered by assertions that such was the course
Captain H. pursued ; and if he either doubts, opposes, or
varies from these self-constituted Mentors, he must look
for sulkiuess, opposition, and the petty mutiny of petty
minds. It is this underhand tyranny attempted on the
chief, that has made so many officers declare " that no
inducement would bring them here again." It is the
duty of every man who may command such service to
institute a full and complete inquiry into all its work-
ings, and, if able, to afford such information as may be of
service to his successors.

But such matters are not merely to be confined to
Arctic vessels. The same principles, narrowly watched,
are involved in every ship and every private dwelling;
it is a sanitary question, and must stand on its philoso-
phical merits alone. I do not, at this late period, begin
my reflections on these matters ; I carried them out suc-
cessfully between 1830 and 1833, three years and a half,
on the coast of Africa, without the loss of a man, and
have been generally successful in other ships. Another
season may afford different results; I will then stub-
bornly, no doubt some will say put in practice my own
views. Doubtless this work may contain many theories
not at all in accordance with the views entertained by

VOL. i. L

146 TERRACED LOWER LEVELS. [October,

those luxuriating in warm studies in 52 N., with a tem-
perature of 76; but it is my business to present facts,
and very stubborn facts too, with the apparent causes in
operation to account for them.

The washhouse brings me back to the fact of its rent
at the gables, the sides being parallel to the beach-line.
One fact is worth a thousand theories, and such a fact,
too strongly pressed on my mind, placed me in great
doubt as to the fate of niy Observatory, that is, should
the ice march up-hill, and imperceptibly slide it over its
gravelly foundation, or disturb its level in the smallest
degree perceptible.

In order perfectly to understand my fears, I may as
well exhibit my view of the causes which, throughout the
Arctic seas, in perfectly sheltered as well as exposed
beaches, produce the lower terraced levels at, and imme-
diately above, the flow of the sea. In a pool, land-locked,
possibly never sea-washed, by reason of a very narrow
belt of water showing only in summer at high water
between it and the then floating ice, it is evident no such
mode of throwing up gravel in complete tidal strata could
be effected, nor even in exposed beaches has the sea any
such action, for similar reasons, viz. want of water in
sufficient volume, or range, to raise these tidal or beach
lines. When I first entered these regions, this matter
engaged my attention from the summit of Cape Spencer
to the beach. The only rational mode then appeared to
be the melting of snows, the formation of successive
terraces, confining the water, and its successive similar
steps, until it reached the sea. Since then I have thought
more, and seen part of the lower operation in action ;

1852.] ACTION ON THE LAND. 147

and I have rejected all the former conclusions, because
these are not invariably, even in winter, " snow-clad" re-
gions ! The discussion of the causes operating on upper
levels must be referred to other authorities and forces,
and, as far as I know, must ever remain theoretical ; no
proof can exist.

The first cause is plainly illustrated by pressing a flat
board, having a smooth rectangular edge, against a slight
ridge of sand on a table : this will produce the first ridge,
or terrace. Possibly the inner edge of the board may
rise, and slide up the sand some inches : comparing great
things with small, this is Nature's first movement here.
The fine bay ice, say six inches thick, forced very slowly
by millions of tons weight and impelled by wind or tide,
presses on some beach, a noise like that of a rushing
wind is instantly heard, and ice is noticed travelling up
the beach, forcing before it all the light gravel. This of
course planes the subjacent matter. It has possibly re-
moved one great shaving, and the upper abutting gravel
resists but for an instant,. it buckles, breaks, and turns
up, forcing layer after layer, and " piling" the beach un-
til the motive power is arrested, possibly miles distant !
This is Act I.; it may be repeated, and the successive
forces, possibly with planes of four feet in thickness, do
their work with unerring certainty, until arrested by the
general freezing of such a mass so accumulated on the
shore as will compel the outer ice to buckle, break, and
pile, overwhelming the strongest works of man. These
are plain, unmistakable facts. The spring thaws reveal
these facts these apparently " tide terraces," and leave
new comers to dream of their origin.

L2

148 EFFECTS OF TIDAL ACTION. [October,

Such an operation of Nature at the beach, and par-
ticularly in our situation, would inevitably destroy the
Observatory, perhaps leave no hope of saving the instru-
ments ; but this I did not anticipate now. The bay or
land ice had formed, and the planes for this season would
not in all probability be disturbed to any extent ; but it
was to be feared. Another cause in daily operation, and
acting to the same end, was in quiet, irresistible action :
this was the tide. If the elder Perkins is alive, he may
remember explaining to me his earliest invention, the
cotton-pressing machine ; I think it may still be seen at
the Polytechnic Institution. Such is our tidal ice-power,
the "taking up wedges" being the snow-drift, etc., which
fills in as the tide opens the various fissures following
the contour of the coast margin.

Let it be conceded that a great and continuous space
at high water is frozen, and that the established winter
ice, grounding daily in sixteen feet water, causes gaps
varying from one foot to six inches, in contour hues cor-
responding to the depths surrounding the land. It must
be evident that these gaps, if filled up, must at each re-
turning high water (twice daily) force the in-shore ice
tip the inclined plane equal in amount to the interposed
compressed matter. This we found it did, until the
heavy ice formed, to guard the in-shore line which it had
taken up. Then these gaps presented another feature :
they turned up, or rose above their in-shore grounded
pieces, causing, wherever resistance offered, unpleasant
barriers. The upper crack of the ice-line ceased about
six feet from the Observatory steps. I cannot state
precisely how many yards it was from high-water line

1852.] ACTION OF TIDAL FISSURES. 149

when I selected the position, but it certainly was six feet
above the level of the highest tide.

H w
L w

Supposing the upper line to represent high water ; the
second to indicate the thickness of ice ; next, the centre
line to indicate low water, and the third its under surface
of ice; the breaks on the shore would indicate the na-
tural causes operating to crack ; the upper dots, the early
stealthy movements up-hill, as evident in tidal pools.

The preceding matter may be dry, but I am not aware
that any previous navigator has attempted to explain the
causes in action ; and if I merely succeed in drawing the
attention of enlightened men, not of those irritated by
the truths which demolish their theories, I am fully re-
paid. I cannot say, Ex fumo dare lucem ; but they may
blow the smoke from our eyes by enlarged discussion.

That the floe had moved in-shore I had absolute proof
before I finally removed the tide-pole; when it was
placed, it had an inclination seaward, and the pole was
at the back of the hole ; when removed, it had about the
same inclination in-shore, and we had to cut away the
outside part of the floe : this would not afford at that
spot, afloat, more than one foot. One very curious fact
was the depth to which we had to dig to get out the
triangle legs, three feet perpendicular. The question
then arose, where does the increment take place in freez-
ing? I am inclined to think, in the early season, both

150 CUBES OF ICE FOE EXPERIMENT. [October,

ways, upwards by evaporation, and below by the cus-
tomary process of freezing ; but here again we have a
very stubborn fact to contend with. By all the experi-
ments made, until I became sick of reported breakages of
thermometers, I could not detect a well-attested differ-
ence between the temperature at the bottom, in seven
fathoms, and that at the surface. If heat ascends, and
the cold will not descend through ice below 32, the sea
preserving 29 to 29 '5, why does it not freeze to the
bottom ? and why does it accumulate on ice freezing at
28, but only at 32 when frozen ? Our experiments
have not resolved this difficulty, every trial has been
marred by some mistake.

Cubes of Ice. Experiments were now commenced on
cubes of sea-ice, and, as the thickness increased, they
were extended to the mean upper, mean centre, and
mean lower masses. Nor did it cease there. These
cubes, duly numbered, were exposed to the upper-deck
temperature during winter, and weighed at particular
seasons to determine their changes by exposure, evapo-
ration, etc. The water resulting from thawing these re-
spective divisions of the ice was bottled, as well as that
at the surface, for future examination. The atmospheric
air, in well-dried, stoppered bottles, and covered with
leather and bladder, was also obtained.

On the 25th of October, a cubic structure was formed
with snow bricks, of twelve feet in length, ten wide, and
six high, the crevices being sealed with snow and water.
In this mass five Six's self-registering thermometers were
inserted, equidistant in height as well as lateral distance
from the air, as follows :

1852.] LAST SIGHT OF THE SUN. 151

No. 1. 5 feet deep and 5 from the side.

2. 4 4

3. 3 3

4. 2 2

5. 1 1

A hole had also been cut into the rocky soil, in which a
wooden tube four feet in length was inserted, in order
to determine the maxima and minima during the winter
season. But, to ray surprise, I found that it had been
registered with the other thermometers daily. However,
it was finally sealed and secured from further molesta-
tion on the 28th of November.

On the 27th of October, the sun should have been in
bed ; however, I could not resist " one last, fond look,"
and as he displayed his countenance for the last time, his
altitude w r as observed, giving about 31' 31" 5'" refraction.

Our winter had now commenced : the thought brought
with it many last expressions on quitting home, con-
nected with the return of that luminary, not easily for-
gotten ! This is not a region to chase away such in-
trusive reflections ; but they only nerve us, perhaps, in
remembrance of the many mottoes, to persevere, to do,
and possibly, to deserve.

Dates will now pass rapidly, although our time will
be completely engrossed by matters too tedious to de-
tail and too heavy for the general reader. I shall there-
fore go back to the before-mentioned washhouse, where I
found that Commander Richards held some mysterious
meetings, which seduced from their allegiance several
subjects of my Observatory. It was too cold and dreary
a spot for me to pry into. At length however the mur-
der came out : he had become the Sole Lessee and
Director of Her Majesty's Theatre Royal, and had there

152

GREEN ROOM DISCOVERED. [November,

established his green (?) room. In due time the clattering
of carpenters and other employes rushing to and fro was
heard ; and, near the commencement of November, the
following play-bill, printed at the Royal Press, on satin,
was placed on my table, ordered to lie there, passed
three readings, and received due assent, the Lord Cham-
berlain having no objections thereto.

UNDEK THE DISTINGUISHED PATKONAGE OF

CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B.

COMMANDER G. H. EICHARDS, of the KOYAL ARCTIC NAVY, (the
Sole Lessee and Manager,) has the honour to acquaint the Nobility and
Gentry of North Cornwall that he has, at a considerable personal sa-
crifice, and with the almost sole view of contributing to their entertain-
ment, engaged a highly select and talented CORPS DRAHATIQUE,
and has entirely rebuilt and re-embellished the Queen's Arctic Theatre,

and that on the Ninth of November, being the birthday of
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES,

DUKE OF CORNWALL AND EARL OF DUBLIN,

will be performed, for the first time in this country, the inimitable

Comedy of

THE IRISH TUTOR.

FLAIL Mr. GROVE (of the Argyle Rooms).

CHARLF.S ... Mr. ALLARD (of the Royal Pioneer Olympic).

1652.] HER MAJESTY'S ARCTIC THEATRE. 153

MR. TILLWELL ...... Mr. LEWIS.

Power of the present day}.

ROSA .............. Mr. CHEYNE (an Aurora of tlie first water

from Sadlers' Wells, where her performance
electrified the audience).

MARY ............ Mr. HAfflVOOD (7ter first appearance on any

Stage).
Villagers, Peasantesses, etc ......... British Seamen.

To be followed by
A MUSICAL INTERLUDE.

( Mr. J. GORE (celebrated Arctic Vocalist).
GLEE, See our oars bke ^ HARWOOD ffrgm ^ R p Q '

feathers play . ^ ^ MACARTNEY.
DUET, The Queen's Coachman, Messrs. R. & I. HALES (from R.P. O.J.

SOLO, Ireland Mr. J. MACARTNEY.

NAUTICAL HORNPIPE Mr. A. DICKENS (from the R.P.O.).

After which, at the express desire of the Ladies,
The perfect Farce of

THE SILENT WOMAN.

Mr. SANDFORD Dr. RICARDS. ARTHUR Mr. GROVE.

MARIANNE . . .Mr. CHEYNE.

The Queen's Own Band will be in attendance, and a MAGNI-
FICENT DROP SCENE is being painted by that celebrated Arctic Artist,

MR. WALTER MAY,

for which an overflowing house alone can in any measure remunerate
the Sole Lessee and Manager, who takes this opportunity of repeating
to the Public that he is actuated by no feeling save that of contributing
to their amusement, and realizing a competency for himself against in-
creasing years and infirmities.

The House will open at 6.30, the Performance commencing
precisely at 7 o'clock.

Tickets may be had of H. BRIANT, at the Arctic Printing Office,
Winter Quarters, Northumberland Sound.

BY AUTHORITY.] [H. Briaut, Printer.

154 THEATRICAL ECCENTRICITIES. [November,

One authority however had not been consulted it was
too late it was the Clerk of the Weather ! I am informed
that the very same mistake occurred "last cruise," on
this identical clay too ; therefore the " old hands " were
to blame. One thing however settled the matter it
could not be put off it was to open on the occasion of
the anniversary of the birth of His Royal Highness the
Prince of Wales and Duke of North Cornwall. Blow it
might, and do its worst, and blow it did.

As the Play-bill intimates, the subjects selected were
' The Irish Tutor' and ' The Silent Woman.'

The theatre was got up with considerable taste, and
every character admirably supported, even to a most
troublesome one-eyed pie and ginger-beer man, who
most pertinaciously chose to present himself at the Royal
Box. He knew full well Her Majesty and the Prince
could not travel this weather ; indeed, he had heard the
apology from the Lord Chamberlain read by the Sole
Lessee, explaining the cause, and intimating her most
gracious pleasure that the men should not forget Mr.
Allsopp, which latter sentence was received with thun-
ders of applause. As to hearing anything, Boreas had
it ah 1 his own way : it lay principally between him and
a Woolwich waterman politely intimating that " the last
boat would start j05-TiVE-ly at eleven."

As we were unable to hear, it is almost needless to
add that the excellence of the acting entirely superseded
the noise of the tempest ; and between it and the music,
of 'which 'Cease rude Boreas' could not be heard, and
but imperfectly understood by the tremulous fingers of
the musicians, the evening terminated satisfactorily. The
manager, being most loudly called for, at length appeared,

i

CO

I- /'

M>

i 1

FH
3

1852.] A GALE. 155

and, having overcome his modesty, made a very taking
speech, not omitting Allsopp in conclusion, and retired,
promising to omit no exertion to please at a more pro-
pitions day.

The temperature during the performance may be as-
sumed as near 17 as possible. This would be warm if
calm, but the breeze in the boxes made it cutting : no-
thing but the most determined loyalty rendered it en-
durable.

This gale came on with the thermometer at 20. On
the Sth it fell to 10, at noon on the 9th to zero, and
rose as high at the Observatory, when we had it at 17,
in the theatre, to 20, at least so I find it recorded. The
tide-gauge rose one foot above its scale, and I have rea-
son to believe that some movement of ice, unperceived
by us, shook the Observatory.

On the 10th of November the gale continued with
unabated violence, cutting off all communication with
the shore, the temperatures ranging from 9 to zero,
rising according to the strength of the wind. A heavy
snow-bank formed on our port side, but the reaction of
the wind against our side caused it to maintain a re-
spectable distance, channelling out a nice sheltered walk
for our men in future, and raising a most picturesque,
ornamental snow-wreath as a permanent overhanging
wall, distant about sixty feet from the ship's side, and
level with our upper works, or about fourteen feet above
the ice. Between us and the ' Pioneer' a huge wave of
snow intervened, nearly on the upper level, and extended
up to the shore, tapering to nothing. This weight of
snow caused the water to flow up, which, \vhen solidly

156 EXAMINE OBSERVATORY. [November,

frozen, formed a level promenade about six inches above
the ice. Thus from every evil some benefit results, if
we be only disposed to view matters as boons of Pro-
vidence. The fissures in the ice, both in-shore and off
into deep water, were also more numerous.

I have before noticed that this is not a snow-clad re-
gion, that is, the land, and this morning has verified
that observation. The gale has denuded the entire coast,
except in the ravines, where it is almost perpetual, bridg-
ing over the watercourses, where, during thaws, the water
flows with rapidity beneath.

To-day, the 14th of November, the gale abated. Yes-
terday the Master had been able to extricate the chrono-
meter from the Observatory, and had I been aware of
his intention would have prevented it. The opening
the door to-day was attended with a kind of mysterious
feeling, difficult to describe; but a solemn, unaccount-
able oppression, similar to entering a long sealed tomb,
weighed upon me, and yet there was literally nothing
more than the dreariness attending the effect produced
by any house overwhelmed by snow. The sensation was
similar to the exploration of a cave, the work of ages.
The scene before me was however one of Nature's imme-
diate recent acts. I must say that it afforded informa-
tion, experience, and matter for reflection : what more
can I add?

The scene before me was new, and, as connected with
my instruments, charged with deep interest. In our ex-
ternal portico the aneroid barometer, the wet and dry
bulb thermometers, and some maximum thermometers
were placed. Be it remembered that this was a portico,

1852.] DAMAGE FROM SNOW STORM. 157

composed of canvas, and the vibration caused by the gale
against the planking which supported the instruments,
might be supposed to militate against the formation of
any fragile accumulation of impalpable " barber" or snow
dust; "barber" meaning trnly, the immediate conden-
sation of the vapour arising from water at the point of
condensation, and blown upon the beard, or the natural
condensation on the beard of the exudation from " the
animal." I do not admit that the term is Arctic. I
knew it as all my old friends who preceded me some
fifty years ago as the well-known "barber" corning
down the narrows of the basin at Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Entering this portico, instead of the aneroid, a light cone
presented itself, having the aneroid as its base, the base
and frustum of the cone of snow being about two feet
each. This, although of such light material, did not
yield easily : but by the repeated application of the
snow-brush I gradually cleared away the snow, and
rescued the instruments unhurt.

The next was the Observatory, and this I almost
feared to enter, for the doorway presented difficulties

158 SNOW FORCED IN BY GALE. [November.

which puzzled me. The standard barometer, previously
coaxed into the performance of its duty, was evidently
damaged, and the snow prevented any force being used
to open the door. The mercurial column had fallen be-
low any rational range, and I was therefore prepared for
the worst. On brushing off the snow I was satisfied
that either the concussion of forcing the door (by Mr.
Nobody), or the snow getting between it and the tube,
had strained it near the cistern, a portion of the mercury
escaped, and it was rendered useless. Brushing the
snow off each, I had to congratulate myself, on quitting
this chamber of horrors, that I had lost but one instru-
ment, and that was one in which I never had confidence,
for it lost mercury before leaving England. But the
pressure of the gale had been so heavy, that every pos-
sible crevice, by which air could enter, was beautifully
fringed by deposits of impalpable snow-wreaths. These
hints were not lost, and the proper remedies applied.

159

CHAPTER VII.

Transit Telescope. Extremes of Cold. Effects of the Gale. Re-
marks on Equipment. Sensations of Cold. Paraselena. Schools
Established. Society of Loyal Arctic Engineers. Deflections of
the Magnetometer. Experiments ou Freezing. Ice Crystals.
The Aurora.

I HAD shortly before this constructed a fixed transit
telescope, by fitting a good two-feet with the necessary
wires, and setting it, by our final observations, in the
meridian. The results were dependent on the stability
of the house, and of this now I had no further doubt.
In few words, intelligible to ruost astronomers, I se-
lected from Baily's Catalogue one of the principal stars
which would, with others of a nearly similar declina-
tion, pass the wires throughout the winter, so as con-
veniently to afford me times for five- or ten-day compa-
risons, and thus verify my rates. Selecting 13 7 Pegasi
and 197Q a Herculis as my standard stars, I possessed
a range of seventeen horn's to work upon until April,
with all the intermediate stars, some of which happen
to be more numerous than the Catalogue gives any no-
tice of, but which are of equal value, unknown, for the
mere purpose of rating chronometers.

160 EXTREMES OF COLD. [November,

On a decided change of temperature between the 5th
and 10th of November, I had firmly relied and expressed
my opinion. On the llth I did expect that gale, and I
further expected a cessation of intense cold from that
period until the 22nd December. This is not the result
of a mere guess, but of a long course of observations in
North America, and wherever cold predominates, that
there are three periods of cold, one in November, ran-
ging between the 5th and 10th; a second in December,
22nd to 30th; and the third in March, near the 10th.
These periods generally exhibit the extremes of tempera-
ture. Of gales I take no special notice, but here they
inevitably accompany any undue rise of temperature.
These remarks led me to institute an inquiry, or con-
structing a table of comparison of the temperatures ex-
perienced by Parry, Ross, and Austin, to which will be
added our own, and possibly those of the other ships
composing this Expedition. I think that the scales will
bear out my observation.

I notice in Parry's Second Voyage, that he relates,
" that the first week in the month of November the
weather was mild; the temperature then fell to 30,
which change we felt sensibly." This extreme is not
much exceeded by this mouth. His severity of mid-
winter commences about the 26th of December, con-
tinuing to the 9th of January, and reaching about 45;
on the 10th it is +4, and continues . Towards the
end of February cold increases, and up to the llth of
March it is 36 '75: from this period (as elsewhere)
intense cold ceases.

We have yet to record the result in this terra incog-

1852.] EFFECT OF THE GALE ON THE SNOW. 161

nlla, but I feel confident in the average result that the
law will hold good, tides, winds, etc., taken fairly into
account. To-day, 15th November, after inspecting the
drift banks which seem to have their points of concen-
tration between the stern of the ' Assistance' and the
bow of the ' Pioneer,' I ascended the hill commanding

O

the anchorage (Mount Beaufort) to examine the effects of
the late gale. It was now denuded, not a place on which
to impress a footmark. And yet, some few days since, on
this very ground, I had watched the operation of cutting
"bricks" for building from this same spot, then a bank
of solid snow preserving an average clear depth of one
foot, and capable of bearing my weight ; the entire depth
was about three feet. Some estimate therefore may be
formed of the unceasing force and scour of the wind and
drift snow, from the perfect denudation of this peninsula,
and indeed of all the visible outlines of the land. It re-
quired but one bright return of that absent sun to shed
his rays on the landscape, and ideal spring would glad-
den our eyes. As I reached the summit I was yet more
surprised : there the denudation was complete ; every
opposing obstacle had been overcome, and I at least
imagined that on the slope of the opposite declivity the
common laws of Nature would be observed, that a de-
posit would be found. Not a vestige of snow remained,
and if any difference existed, it was more denuded on
that side, even to its very base.

It was amusing to observe its effects on all the line of
supports, or snow pedestals, of the electrical wires. They
originally stood complete, as at a, but were now reduced

VOL. i. M

162

WARMING APPARATUS. [November,

to the skeleton shown by b in the diagram ; others were
mere remnants.

About this period I gave way to the snow and gra-
vel covering on the decks ; not from conviction, but for
peace and quietness. To Commander Richards I do not
ascribe any such feeling of pressure ; but he was evi-
dently worked upon by constant dinning, elsewhere, into
the belief that it was his duty to urge me to satisfy this
"former cruise mania;" and if any fancied themselves
warmer, the object was gained. The Sylvester would not
act, and I very much regretted the absence of Perkins'
hot-water tubes, for those I knew how to control they
were fitted in my own house, in the ' Terror,' and I could
command their services up to any temperature. Know-
ledge is power ; but no knowledge here could make Syl-
vester's apparatus work without an enormous consump-
tion of fuel ; and let it be remembered, that in both these
vessels it failed on the late Expedition. On the other
hand, I know that with Perkins the difficulty consists in
moderating the heal. It is a matter beyond controversy,
that if the initial heat is generated in Perkins, it must
pursue its course throughout its coil, and distribute its
heat before it returns to the furnace ; but Sylvester dis-

1852.] THOUGHTS ON EQUIPMENT FOR TRAVEL. 163

dains the cabin, or of reaching many feet of it, never-
theless carefully conveying all offensive effluvia, tobacco
smoke, etc. Not that I disagree with his principle, but
that he cannot carry it out ; he cannot, more than our-
selves, demand that we should sail by the head, to give
his current ascent. But the matter will be more tho-
roughly sifted (under very different arrangements) next
winter.

November 28. The increased thickness of the ice,
and consequent gradual rise of the ship, prevents the
tide-gauge from acting correctly, unless indeed the en-
tire frozen surface does not permit the due flow of tide.
The difficulty, and incessant labour also, of breaking
away the constantly-forming ice, is too much for the
men ; I have therefore put it out of gear until spring.
Our attention is now principally directed towards the
general equipment of the spring travelling parties, and
we begin to find that these matters should have been
cautiously considered in England, and not left simply to
the mind of one, but of a board of officers. Indeed, I
do not think that any part of the equipment comes pro-
perly within the province of a seaman ; it is much more
that of a ship-broker and the higher classes of trades-
men. The delay in appointing the officer who is to
command until too late to make much more than his
own equipment, and barely time to complete his ordi-
nary duties, independent of any preparation of scientific
instruments militates sadly against the interests of such
an expedition. I can safely say that very few of the
leading officers, including myself, were properly equipped,
nor could we learn, from any reliable channel, what was

M 2

164 WANT OF PROPER BOOTS. [November,

required. Every one had his opinion, and kept it for his
own use ; we now know, and feel too, what is requisite.
If time had permitted, I could have had the opinions of
the best practical men : lighter, better, and cheaper clo-
thing Avould have been prepared for every individual, and
submitted for approval ; the tents would have been ade-
quate to preserve life, if wrecked, and yet lighter for
travelling ; the stoves would have been serviceable now
and hereafter; the sledges would not have been con-
structed of soft Canada elm in the dockyards, but of
lance-wood, by some intelligent carriage-builder, and
shod with steel instead of soft iron : they would have
cost Government less money, and any North American
knows well the value of his polished runner. Steel will
pass over stone easily, and not be bitten ; iron is worse,
copper worse still, and lead, to the meanest capacity, a
dead drag. As regards the boots these are now really
so much matter of general supply, from the days of Parry
to the present, that it would be almost mutiny to dis-
agree upon such a subject ; yet they are far from water-
proof, and for wet work, if properly made, they are in-
dispensable.

But the " travelling boot" is of more importance
everything is at stake here. We are totally unprovided,
simply because we trusted. " Who from faults is free ?"
We might, had the travellers of last cruise made known
all that has now leaked out, and given us the result of
their experience, have been ready for the field ; we are
at present totally unprepared, and with one shoemaker
and some sailmakers closely engaged making canvas
boots with leather soles : some have been made of the

1852.] REMARKS ON CLOTHING, ETC. 165

seal-skins* obtained at Greenland, but that they will not
last we can plainly see. They are like our seal-skin
dresses provided in England, offensive even to talk about.
Those purchased at Lievely have turned out better : ne-
cessity there has taught them the proper mode of cu-
ring the skins, and they are thin, light, and flexible. A
preparation of Mackintosh and linen or silk externally,
and fine, close, light cloth within, would have been in-
finitely preferable. Further, every article of clothing has
been mis-supplied : nothing to fit, and therefore nothing
comfortable: and not a tailor on board to alter! Of
this the Government has always been kept in ignorance,
and the routine has been perpetuated under the several
commanders of these expeditions. The old principle, es-
tablished in well -regulated ships about the year 1821, of
allowing a certain number of contractors to fit the men,
muster them before pay-day, and deposit their ticketed
clothes until the First Lieutenant saw they were paid
for, and the duplicate taken for later distribution, could
easily have been pursued here, and would have afforded
great satisfaction. I was measured, it is true, but my
clothes never were intended for a man under six feet,
and plenty of room in arms and chest for very exten-
sive smuggling. Fortunately, I did not reckon on the
gratuitous supply, and obtained one warm ship suit;
that for travelling I was lucky enough to obtain from
the Governor at Lievely.

To myself all the blame is due, or rather to my want
of opportunity or time to look after other even more im-

( These seal-skins were specially obtained for this purpose at Green-
land, but were totally useless for such service.

166 SENSATIONS OF COLD. [November,

portant matters. Many expenditures of the public money,
I now perceive, might have been avoided, and space saved
for much more important stores. From the proper de-
partments at the Admiralty every facility was afforded,
but many supplies would, if I again controlled a fitting-
out, be entirely expunged.

How habit changes the feelings ! not clothing, for I
have not changed the ordinary suit which I donned on
reaching the Orkneys, and even in travelling have merely
added the Lievely seal-skin trousers. Not many weeks
since, 20 was considered very cold in our tents ; and we
were reduced to melt snow to drink, about the 1st of
September. Another month, about the 1st of October,
I well recollect, being then in jeopardy, and the lead-
ers of this Expedition cut off for a time, our anxious
prayers were offered for a temperature of zero, or even
10, in order to freeze the sea intervening between us
and the mainland, and enable us to travel. Even then
we did not feel the cold. About the 16th of November
I noticed apparent disappointment that the mercury had
risen to 15, and on the 17th to 20 "5. One hero, in
my mind's eye, appeared to repent of his coming to a
climate where he was not to have " constant exercise and
training" to aid him in his preparation for his contem-
plated inarch in the spring, with a temperature at 50!
but I very strongly suspect that my hero, if unfolded,
as the clown's baby was, would be found prepared for
the worst, sundry rolls of flannel to make the man.

Eor my own part, I feel the cold, at times acutely ; it
varies according to the state of health ; but I fear it not,
and must candidly express my wish to experience, in

1852.] ELECTRIC SNOW-HOUSE SINKS. 167

my own person, provided as we are with such a perfect
set of instruments, the lowest temperature yet registered
by reliable instruments and observers. I shall then be
able to afford my humble opinion as to its effects. This
is not foolhardiness, it is solely the pursuit of science;
but I have no wish or intention to brave it by any un-
necessary exposure. I merely hope that the minimum
temperature may not occur when I am in bed : I should
be strongly inclined to defer its registry until I saw the
minimum gauge in the morning.

November 30. About this period the season becomes
extremely monotonous, and one is reduced to all kinds
of imaginary reasons to account for the absence of ex-
pected phenomena, more especially the aurora, for which
every kind of solicitation had been adopted ; from mast-
head to mast-head of ship, as well as ' Pioneer ;' thence to
the shore ; up the hill ; along the hill, on elevated poles ;
indeed, wherever it could be supposed to pass, there a trap
was in readiness. Possibly we had overdone the business,
exhausted the atmosphere, and it had not wherewithal
to support itself, or held aloof at least from combination
with our protected neighbourhood.

The Crystal Palace, constructed as the sanctum sanc-
torum of the electric operations, had shared the fate of
such castles, had proved too heavy for the floe, sub-
sided, water flowed in, and the gale of the 9th November
had almost obliterated the site !

This evening a beautifully defined paraselena was ob-
served about north-north-east true. By measurement
with sextant the interior circle was found to have a ra-
dius of 22 10', vertical as well as horizontal; the ex-

168 BRILLIANT PARASELENA NOTICED. \November,

terior 44; the moon's altitude at the time about 30.
This beautiful phenomenon was represented by two con-
centric halos, incomplete near the horizon, accompanied
by two strong crucial rays, vertical and horizontal, hav-
ing the moon for their centre, the moon at this moment
being four days past the full. It was also accompanied
by arcs of other eccentric circles, having their common
centre at a point within the zenith. The greater of these
intersected the moon and outer halos, forming, at their
contacts, luminous spots. So nearly did this represent
the rectangular crucial form at the moon, that it was only
by following the lower rays of the greater eccentric halo
that they could be traced to be really a segment of a
great circle. (See Plate.)

At the points of intersection of these halos, bright
paraselenes, forming five on the lower and two on the
upper arcs, presented themselves ; the moon and the in-
tersections by the vertical ray, exhibiting the most lumi-
nous. The second eccentric circle did not intersect, at
any visible point, the outer halo ; but where the outer ec-
centric and vertical cut through the greater concentric,
a sort of luminous nebula appeared to vibrate, affording
an impression of the effect of an aurora. I did not, at
the time, consider that it could in any manner have any
connection with the aurora or electric influence ; but,
on examining the magnetometer register, I found that
between nine and midnight the instrument had been
deflected from 124 to 134, 110 to 125 being the
customary range when nothing is noticed likely to be of
interest. In consequence of the visits of very faint au-
rora, and other disturbances of the magnetometer, fresh

1852.]

HARD-LINED CLOUDS.

169

instructions were issued, " to note every deviation above
or below 125." A similar phenomenon, but on a much
reduced scale, and riot nearly so brilliant, occurred the
night following. The magnetometer exhibited symptoms
of undue disturbance between the hours of eight P.M.
and thirteen (or one A.M.).

To the pencil of Lieutenant May I am indebted for
the very interesting sketch of the subject under notice,
as well as of the ship and tender at our winter quarters.

On the forenoon of the 1st of December the southern
arch of the horizon became considerably illuminated,
equal indeed to our tints in lower latitudes before sun-
rise in March, and exhibited a very beautifid illustration
of the effect of intense cold arresting the upper currents
of air. This representation was so perfectly defined as
to produce hard lines on the edges of the clouds, on
which the fancy would frequently trace ideal figures. In
one particular instance they seemed to be a collection of

the various outlines of the summits of the land, and to
be forced into rounded forms, as if impelled by a furious
gale.

Under this dark-coloured sky the distant land on the

170 SCHOOLS ESTABLISHED. {December,

southern shore, near Cape Lady Franklin,* was peculiarly
refracted, and appeared to be considerably nearer than
our positive knowledge would warrant, displaying very
beautifully its particular features. A delicate salmon
tint pervaded the horizon, affording the pleasing idea of
a March sunrise in England. Our climate here, as far
as we can judge from the journals of our predecessors,
differs considerably from that further south. It is drier,
clearer, I would almost add, superior, to that we read
of ; but this, I imagine, results from a freer scope of air.
On board I find the 'tween-decks very wet and uncom-
fortable, extending from the after-gunroom bulkhead to
the bows. My cabin is particularly dry, the ice in all
the inaccessible crevices of the after-storeroom, abaft it,
absorbing greedily the little moisture which may arise ;
all the bulkheads and furniture cracking and splitting
with loud noise, at the same time attended with some
difficulty in maintaining an even temperature. The wet
between decks, resulting from cooking, breath, and dry-
ing clothes in the main hold, cannot by any present ar-
rangement be remedied.

December 1 . Our first amusement was the theatre ;
this was followed by a newspaper ; but something more
useful and solid was required. We therefore established
I he evening schools, and not having sufficiently, or at all,
prepared for this important matter by the customary Go-
\ eminent supplies, the requisite paper of which to form
writing-books dipped deeply into our supplies. Three
classes were formed : first, those who could read, write,
and calculate ; second, those who could read and write

'* The new Ciipe Liidy Franklin.

1852.] SOCIETY OF LOYAL ARCTIC ENGINEERS. 171

only ; third, those who knew nothing ; and very satis-
factory progress was made, thanks to the supervision of
Commander Richards, Mr. Loney, and Mr. Lewis, who
handsomely offered their services.

As there seemed yet to be a vacuum, I proposed the
incorporation of the Loyal Circle of Arctic Engineers, to
meet on Monday evenings, read some interesting matter
from standard works, or produce a paper upon particular
matters immediately connected with our operations, pre-
sent or intended. My object was to enable the diffident
seamen to stir themselves by a course of study which
would enable them to enter the ' Excellent' with certain
acquirements. It is not the province of the Captain to
take the lead in such matters beyond the suggestion, and
I expected, if the direction could once be brought to
move in the right road, it might induce those to think
who never thought before, and perhaps seek to solve the
meaning of expressions to which they were not accus-
tomed. It was a rational exercise of the mind, and
unless some one set the machine in action, the wheels
might become so much clogged (by sleep) as to be inert
when required.

There was another great object which I confess I had
in view, and that was the discussion, at the moment and
on the spot, of many particular subjects of great interest,
and to stamp them by some mark of authority now, so
as to prevent, at any later date, any theoretical fireside
discussions in England, where they might not be properly
refuted. Opposition and discussion here would secure
proper tests, would induce each party interested to col-
lect facts ; and thus our records would become valuable,

172 NOTICE OF MEETING. \December,

and the minds of all better adapted to register, in fit
terms, the forthcoming adventures of travel in a manner
befitting the importance of this Expedition.

Finally, as regarded our little community, it afforded
amusement, occupation, and instruction to the crew, all
of whom were invited to produce papers upon any mat-
ters they pleased. In order to facilitate this object, I
drew iap a set of subjects, on which papers would be in-
vited, and endeavoured to include every capacity, even to
humorous matters, for which certain medals, " when en-
graved and struck," would be awarded. Having been
elected President, indeed fearing that it might altoge-
ther fail if I did not start the vessel, I commenced pro-
ceedings by delivering rny address, and we contrived to
continue our meetings during the winter, or truly to
drag its lazy coil along, until superseded by the prepa-
rations for sledge travel in spring.

"Notice is hereby given, that a Meeting of the Royal Society of
Arctic Engineers will take place on Monday Evening next, the 29th of
November, 1852, in MAIN HATCHWAY SQUARE, when an Original
Paper, ' On ike Construction of a Lamp for th* Cooking Apparatus
of the Travelling Parties, to litrn the fat of Animals slain in the Chase,'
will be read by Mr. HARWOOD, of the ' Pioneer.' The President in
the Chair. The doors will open at 6.30 P.M. precisely.

" G. H. RICHARDS, Secretary.
" The Temperature to be preserved at 42."

At the period of the spring tide in the early part of
this month, a very extensive crack, following the contour
line of the peninsula beach, opened about half-way be-
tween the ship and the shore, computed to be in about
three fathoms, caused probably by the very great incre-

1852.] THE AURORA NOTICED. 173

ment of drift snow preventing the floating or curvature
of the ice at the crack, where it appeared to be very
thick ; it gaped about eighteen inches above, but it was
too close below to admit of measurement.

On the evening of the 2nd of December, about nine
P.M., the first well authenticated aurora was observed.
All our instruments being then available, I was anxious
to ascertain its effect on them. Mr. Cheyne was di-
rected to report on the electrometers, and I add his re-
marks, as I believe he was called in time to see it in part.

" SIR, Last night, at 9.20, I observed an Aurora : a light narrow
streak extended from the summit of the Observatory Hill, passing im-
mediately through the zenith, in a direction south-by-east true, termi-
nating in a feather about 25 north of the zenith (?). Four cumulus-
shaped masses appeared as though only about a couple of hundred feet
from the mast-heads ; these masses lasted about three minutes, and
then suddenly disappeared, having apparently shifted their position
about twenty feet during that time ; the long streak gradually vanished
in about eight minutes.

" The magnetometer read 116 '50, was perfectly steady, nor was the
electrometer in the least affected. The sky was perfectly clear.

" (Signed) J. P. CHEYNE, Lieutenant.

"Decembers, 1852."

Mr. Cheyne was not an observer : he probably took
this 116'50 from the register for nine hours,* which is
there so recorded, but he could not judge of the steadi-
ness of the magnetometer: at eight it was 117'30; at
ten, 120-60. But it is not clear to my mind that it
was not affected, and that the causes which produced
this aurora had not been in action the last eight hours,
viz. from four P.M. until midnight, when it reached

* All terms of time refer to astronomical periods from noon to noon.

174 DEFLECTION or MAGNETOMETER. [December,

137 '80, equal to 27 'CO of deflection, a disturbance not
before recorded ; even between nine and midnight we
have a deflection of 21 '30 !

The barometer, during the interval between eight and
midnight, suddenly changed from 29 - 8GO to 29'650, re-
gaining its height, and rising to 29'900, when the mag-
netometer at sixteen hours showed 107'90.

I had almost begun to conjecture that we were in too
cold a medium, or that it might not extend to so high a
latitude. Considering, too, that its first appearance gene-
rally occurs with the first shades of winter, I could hardly
understand its prolonged absence. I had observed it, to
the north of Behring's Strait, on the 25th August and
continuously up to the 5th October, in its greatest bril-
liancy ; and in Wales, at Swansea, in August. But I
notice that Parry, in his first voyage, and nearest to us,
did not record it until the 8th of January ; on his third,
which follows in order of latitude, in October and No-
vember ; and in his second, in October. I did not wit-
ness it myself, indeed it was not reported : I casually
heard of it next day, and issued orders " invariably to
call me." It was only on perusing the official report
called for from Lieutenant Cheyne, that I was induced
to search the magnetometer records for its motions.

December 5. Another aurora, noticed this evening,
presented vertical shoots or broom-like fasciae, shooting
towards the zenith (from behind the hill north-north-
west), in pale flame-tinted rays, to an altitude of 20.
No disturbance was recorded, but it is highly probable
that the variations registered at nine and ten P.M. are at-
tributable to tliis influence. It recurred about midnight,

1852.] WINTER COMMENCES. 175

but is not indicated by the magnetometer -. at noon it is
suddenly deflected.

The bond fde winter does not appear to commence
before the 1st of December, and about that period I
observe that the walkers are more energetic in their exer-
cise, and take to it more decidedly as essential to health
than for amusement. I quite agree in this feeling, but
deeming sundry wounds not easily cured, if I should un-
necessarily expose myself, or meet with an accident, fit
matters to be trifled with, am content to take that which
the deck or light trips to the Observatory furnish.

On the 6th of December, being the last of our strolls,
I noticed Venus to the south-south-west, refracted with
extraordinary splendour ; a complete Pharos, a vertical
ray exhibiting most splendid pencils of light. It was
so well worth notice, that I called some of the officers out
to witness it ; but I found that, on ascending the side of
the hill to obtain a better view, it dwindled again into
simply Venus ; not the first one she has deceived.

A certain set of experiments were now made on freez-
ing water ; not simply to satisfy myself on this very
beautiful phenomenon, as all of Nature's works are
when scientifically investigated, but for the purpose of
determining the amount of vapour thrown off during the
progress of crystallization. For these experiments I used
a very delicate balance, substituting gutta-percha vessels
of nine square inches' surface for those of brass ; they
were half an inch in depth. I found it difficult to deal
with even one drop, but, by the aid of a very fine capil-
lary dropping (test) tube, and a shred of blotting-paper,
soon adjusted my balance. The amount of water sub-

176 EXPERIMENTS ON FREEZING. [December,

mitted to experiment was six drachms, distilled ; and as
the perfection of the balance could not be carried on
in an atmosphere of 17 "5, the preparatory measures
were conducted below. A kind of screened cabin was
erected on deck for experimental purposes ; the tempera-
ture of the water below = 56.

Time Oh. 26m., exposed to 17.

Oh. 31m. = 5 minutes, frozen, copious vapour.
Oh. 41m. = 15 minutes, hard, opaque, and raised.
The loss of weight = 5'725 grains. Left until noon following: no
change. The same on salt water afforded 5'0 grains loss; frozen in 5
minutes, opaque in 7 minutes.

During the crystallization of the fresh water the effect
was very beautiful : first, the smoky lambent vapour,
and then the shadows of the first shooting of the crystals,
which were exhibited by a very powerful transmitted
light, followed by the arborescence, until succeeded by
the dull glare of solidity. Even then I could scarcely
fancy it frozen, until it commenced the change to rnilki-
ness, and eventually, on rising in the centre, became
quite opaque. I am afraid I shall not coax any of my
fair readers to visit rnc, to participate in such experi-
ments.

My next experiment was on a silk handkerchief, I
am not ashamed to say, belonging to one of the Banner
ladies ; it may yet be claimed, and passed as an heir-
loom. This, being like its owner a delicate piece of
workmanship, was well adapted to the purpose, as may
be perceived from the weight. Weighed beforehand, it
appeared without fault, but it must go through the fire.
Its first weight was 7 drachms 9 grains, but after severe
drying, unfolding, airing, and redrying, it had lost 36'5

1852.] AMOUNT OF EVAPORATION. 177

grains ; re-weighed before exposure on the lower deck
0^ drachms : in three hours it had absorbed 38 grains ;
in five hours, 36, given up 2 grains ; after hanging in
my cabin twelve hours it had lost 8 grains. I fully
intended subjecting this precious morceau to freezing
proofs, but bad weather prevented this cruelty.

I do not think that any of the other processes carried
on at this period, except the freezing of water in glass
cylinders, are likely to interest others than those for
whom they were expressly made, and which may possibly
be placed in the Appendix.

Excepting Scoresby, few, I believe, have enjoyed the
study of the forms of ice-crystals. I have ever felt deep
interest in crystallography, as regards minerals, and mi-
neral and other salts ; therefore I could not but feel cu-
rious in watching the slow process of freezing. A very
clean glass cylinder, about a foot in length and one inch
internal diameter, filled with clear water at 50, was
submitted to a temperature of 24: the vapour con-
tinued to flow off for a considerable time after the water
was frozen, and the ice had elongated itself out of the
tube (which was very strong).

During the process of freezing (as we may often ob-
serve in the crystallization of salts), I had the tube
placed in the focus of a strong reflecting carriage-lamp,
and was thus able to trace, on a white ground behind,
the beautiful regularity of its every motion, from the first
silvery thread to the total condensation.

I noticed that the crystallization commenced from be-
low, and shooting its feather-like processes, signalizing as
it were (with its arms at 60 above or 120 below) to the

VOL. I.

178 DETACHED ICE CRYSTALS. [December,

surface ; it in return replied by similar signal, and inter-
laced its branches downward at the centre. This was
succeeded by a milky infusion, similar to that of water
introduced into a solution of camphor in alcohol, and all
became chaos. But I was not so easily satisfied ; and re-
peating these experiments with salt water and at higher
temperatures, I noticed that, as the point of general con-
gelation approached, peculiar stars were produced, and
rose to the surface, where they became attached to and
formed the general mass. These stars were, I perceived,
perfect detached crystals, similar to those we meet with
in the atmosphere, and which belong to bright-weather
snow.

At a subsequent date, on sending for sea-water from
a depth, so as to be free from ice, I noticed that it
appeared impure, and rejected it ; but the next bottle
was, if possible, worse. This induced rue to examine it
closely. I then found that it was all composed of these
fine crystalline stars, the water being, at the moment it
entered my cabin, at the point of congelation. But in
very few minutes after, being influenced by a warmer
temperature, its countenance changed, and beamed as
bright as ever. Such we may observe constantly in port
wine. I am afraid that many of us would under similar
circumstances look very dull ; but I know, from sad ex-
perience, that my coimtenance would undergo many very
unseemly contortions under such treatment before it as-
sumed anything like brightness : such would especially
result from the pain of recovering from a bite of John
Frost, Esq.

On the nth, 9th, and 10th of December, further exhi-

1852.] MAGNETOMETER AFFECTED. 179

bitions of aurora occurred, and some slight deflections
of the magnetometer were apparent, but generally pre-
ceding or following.

About three A.M. on the 12th, the aurora was reported
by the officer of the watch as very brilliant. But as I
was comfortably in bed, and it was beyond my exami-
nation and would vanish before I could possibly be in
a proper state to receive such a delicate visitor, I direct-
ed Messrs. May and Cheyne to pay every attention. It
was Mr. May's guard at the magnetometer, and Mr.
Cheyne was excused watch solely to attend to the elec-
trometers, etc. It was asserted that the electric fluid was
noticed on the wires fairly caught ; certes Mr. Cheyne
found no disturbance. I am not quite sure that he had
his instruments placed in connection with his wires, or
that he reached in time, possibly thinking as I did (?).
Mr. May repaired to the Observatory, and unfortunately
niy later orders were not then in force, or we should
have had a full history of this visitation. The magne-
tometer exhibited the most unmistakable signs of dis-
turbance, moving instantaneously from 114 to 128, and
up to 150, returning at four A.M. to 117'90.

This, then, I consider as strong proof; and taking into
consideration other very decided deflections, when no
cause was apparent, I am induced to believe that the af-
fection precedes or follows what may be indistinct, or not
at all noticed by simple atmospheric observers, and no-
thing short of very close watching at the magnetometer
will indicate the truth. But it must be borne in mind
that this extra duty is a delicate service, and, to maintain
even moderate interest, I know full well that the greatest

N 2

180 CAPTURE OF THE AURORA. [December.

tact is necessary to keep up the importance of the ope-
rators. No " soft sawder" will do here : it is only by
making the observer feel his importance, and in this as-
pect his responsibility to the civilized world, that he can
be persuaded to extend his labours. Science will never
be driven.

This aurora was reported " to have been duly captured,
but broke the wires;" and as we could not find any of
her (she has become a female) on the wires, and I could
obtain no direct testimony (but the reverse) that Mr.
Cheyne's electrometers were not influenced, the question
remained in nubibus.

181

CHAPTER VIII.

Short Days. Minimum Temperatures. Warmth of Vessels. A She-
Bear. Preparations for Travel. Theatricals. Shortest Day.
Christmas Ode. Christmas Fare. Depth of Winter. The New
1 ear. -Comparison of Thermometers. Freezing Mercury. Range
of Extreme Cold. Freezing Ale. Alcohol at a low Temperature.

ON the 10th of December our nights had become deci-
dedly dark, and our small portion of day does not fairly
dawn on us until near eleven, when it is about as bright
as a September morning in England, at fifteen minutes
before daylight. At noon a delicate rose-tint pervades the
horizon to the south-east and south-west, where the land
affords an horizon, permitting a very peculiar marked
pencil line on distant objects. The land in our immediate
neighbourhood exhibits just such a clear outline as the
moon would produce if rising or passing at a slight ele-
vation round the horizon ; but notwithstanding the irre-
gularities on the outline are so very distinct, I was sur-
prised that I was unable to detect our substantial cairns
on the several points, so prominent but a week since :
they did not exceed three or five miles in distance, and
doubtless would have been very apparent through the
telescope. Such a distinction, then, in tracing objects, I

182 MINIMUM TEMPERATURES. [December,

consider to be the winter's warning. The weather has
become steady and settled, and, guided by the records
of previous navigators, I have made up my mind, after
investigating the comparative tables furnished by them,
that about 40, as a general temperature for winter,
may be expected. I notice that the minimum tempera-
tures for December of ' Hecla,' 1819, 43; 'Enterprise,'

56-5; 'Hecla '(third voyage), 35; 'Resolute,' 1850,

39'5; and as the general seasons in high latitudes may
be said to observe some little uniformity, I have little
doubt but we shall not differ, except it be by a few de-
grees lower in the scale, from our predecessors.

My opinion as to the cold dates I have already stated ;
but I hope to add to this Work tables exhibiting the
comparative ranges of temperature experienced during
the several voyages of Captains Parry, James Ross, Aus-
tin, and the present, affording ten clear important co-
lumns, ranging over thirty-five years.

We find it very difficult to preserve a medium tem-
perature between decks, the cold air rushing down and
condensing the vapour so rapidly on the beams as to
wet the hammocks at night. Of this the men complain ;
but if we increase fuel and raise the temperature, it is
even worse. The housing is old, weather-worn, and the
same which was supplied to Captain Ommanney, with
about forty yards to repair damages !

The fitting in these cases should be as perfect as that
of the Houses of Parliament : there, it is matter of con-
venience, luxury, or personal comfort ; here, the lives of
many valuable men are at stake. A very simple original
fitting, or the prepared materials supplied, woidd have

1852.] REMARKS ON WARMTH OF VESSELS. 183

rendered these vessels comfortable, at least habitable, even
with an external temperature of 40 below zero. It is
now too late to commence working with iron tools ; and
in that temperature I should hesitate to ask, much more
command, any out-door work ; but I do promise to re-
medy, if my ability permits, great part of these faults
next season. My plans are already formed, and have been
hinted at weeks since. Looking simply to the tempe-
rature, I feel satisfied, so long as we can ensure a mode-
rate dry air, that icy surfaces, ready to absorb all the
flying vapours, are not injurious, are indeed safety-
valves ; and my opinions are chiefly derived from actual
observation, principally on the habits of the Americans,
Dutch, Russians, Danes, and Esquimaux. I cannot re-
call to mind any well-authenticated case of weakness, in-
jured health, or disease amongst them, and yet they all
pursue the hot dry air principle, rushing even into ex-
tremes.

The great evil here is the grossly unscientific mode of
entering our domiciles by our chimneys, in other words,
by our hatchways ; all other people civilized, and es-
pecially the uncivilized Esquimaux, enter by the lower
levels. Experience has taught them that cold descends,
and will not run up an inclined plane if any break or re-
sistance is offered. The only mode of obviating this on
shipboard is, unless an entering or timber-port be cut
in bow or stern, by producing such a labyrinth to the
main entrance on deck, that the intervening atmosphere
shall be warmed before it reaches the hatchway, and not
permitted to act on the decks ; further, that all objects
interfering with the radiation of heat from the galley fire

184 A SHE-BEAR AND HER CUBS. \_December,

be removed ; and finally, that the great escape shall be
induced by the column of warm ascending air above and
surrounding the galley, or kitchen, of our ships.

December 16. Any change is cheering, but in the
present instance the excitement was beyond reason, and
therefore sport was very soon spoiled. A she-bear and
her two cubs paid a visit to our dust-heap, on which,
however, none of Goldner's preserves were deposited ;
but they thought probably that they might derive some
little advantage from licking the tins of Hogarth. Before
any concerted action for the capture of our visitors could
be formed, some of our sportsmen, too eager to have
their first shot at them, scared them off. As this was on
the royal preserves, I issued the requisite orders against
poaching, determined that, at their next visit, fair play
and no favour should be observed, and that an adequate
force of dogs and men should attend the hunt. The
poaching for foxes also required looking into, and the
several agents for the furriers, not in repute in this divi-
sion of the Squadron, were warned to observe their re-
spective bounds. Hardly had the first excitement at-
tending the visit of these bears ceased, when I learned
that they had arrived from the quarter where our clog-
leader was exercising his animals with the sleigh, and
as they possibly might have done some mischief there,
a party was equipped for the search. Warned by the
sound of bugle and muskets, he soon made his appear-
ance, and all again was quiet as a ship-of-war can be !

The cold begins to tell on ah 1 old wounds, frost-bites,
etc., raising unpleasant sensations ; and, possibly from
nervous affection, rendering a twinge (at any other pe-

1852.] PREPARATIONS FOR TRAVEL. 185

riod unnoticed) importunate ; nevertheless no one seems
to fail in health, indeed the officers and crew will pro-
bably be in much better condition on the 25th Decem-
ber, 1852, than they were on that day last year ! Their
light hearts, no doubt, will be far away.

In the monotony of winter it is well that we can find
employment ; all our attention is now directed towards
the intended spring travelling, and the arrangement of
men, as well as aides, to the several sledge duties. As
regards myself, upon this latter point, I shall not decide
until the last moment, uncertain whether I may not be
placed beyond the pale of such exertion. I do not fear
it ; but I have many croakers about me, who fancy I
ought not to venture. With reference to the duty to be
executed, I am aware that it will be a very serious and
doubtful service, for I know full well the uncertainty of
the ice with which we shall have to deal and the difficul-
ties men and officers will have to encounter, should they
be compelled to work with boat and sledge together,
which, from a curious habit of " seeing ahead," I am in-
clined to think will be imperative ; or, should they suc-
ceed in getting safely across to the southern side of this
channel on firm ice, still boats will be requisite for their
relief, unless indeed the water makes early and permits
the ship or tender to visit the southern coast, which I
am inclined to think will not be improbable.* As to the
north-eastern search, which I have selected as my own
route, I have no fears, because, as I shall have to visit
islands where the open sea prevailed last year, at an
early period, I shall be provided with one or more boats,
duly prepared ; and, if caught on the mainland, I am

* These remarks were fully verified.

186

THEATRICALS.

[December,

now sufficiently acquainted with the leading southern fea-
tures to know where to cut through to regain the ships.

The lady bear and her cubs paid another very short
visit, but, alarmed by the slamming of a door, made off
to the south-west.

On the 21st, our shortest or no day, the seamen of
the 'Pioneer' and 'Assistance' performed 'Hamlet' and the
' Scapegrace.' The performance was, as far as we could
hear, good : but some doubt as to the scenery, the pre-
ponderance of clouds at three feet above the stage, re-
sulting from the condensation of the breath of the audi-
ence, rendering the busts of the actors barely visible,
and thus, at all events, adding to their confidence, as no
blush could be detected.

H.M.8. ASSISTANCE. ***

UNDEB THE DISTINGUISHED PATHOHAGE OF

CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B.

COMMANDER G. H. EICHARDS, the Manager (and now Sole Proprie-
tor) of the Queen's Arctic Theatre, has the satisfaction of acquainting
the Nobility and Gentry of North Cornwall and the neighbouring county
of Northumberland that he has just arrived from the very POLE itself,
accompanied by a C'OBPS DRAMATIQTJE never equalled in this or

1852.] THEATRICALS. 187

any other country. He also brings with him a choice selection of
Scenery, only to be procured in that delightful and highly favoured
country; and, with a view to the revival of the legitimate Drama, and
a desire (he trusts a laudable one) to render, if possible,

THE SHORTEST DAY STILL SHORTER!
has determined to open his house on the Twenty-first of December, for

the performance of the first Act of the Tragedy of

HAMLET,

BY THE 'PIONEEK' TRAGEDIANS.
O'P}

(illOST

I Mr.J. ORGAN.

LAERTES J

KING o? DENMARK Mr. G. COUSINS.

QUEEN Mr. FENNING.

MARCELLUS Mr. T. HALL.

CORNELIUS Mr. R. BATCHELOR.

VOLTIMAND Mr. G. HARRIS.

BERNARDO Mr. J. SINNETT.

HORATIO AND POLONIUS . . Mr. G. EDEY.

During the Interlude the Audience will be entertained in a variety

of ways, including

SONGS BY MESSES. H. JONES AND C. FIELDER,

and a highly pathetic Story of NEGRO LOVE by Mr. J. HELD, in fidl

Negro Costume, as being peculiarly adapted to this climate.

After which will be performed the much-admired Comedy of

THE SCAPEGRACE,

BY THE 'ASSISTANCE' COMPANY.

COLONEL AUBREY Mr. J. REID.

PEROQCET ..Mr.J. BARNES.

MRS. AUBREY Mr. T. BOND.

CHARLES DARLINGTON Mr. A. INGLETON.

BUSTLE Mr.J. MACARTNEY.

TUCKER . . Mr. H. BRIANT.

The Manager's Own Band will be in attendance, and he has deter-
mined to introduce an entirely IK u feature into his Theatre on this

188 LOW TEMPERATURE OF THEATRE. [December,

occasion. Having, during his recent travels, observed the highly elastic
properties of ice, he has, without hesitation, decided to construct his
stage entirely of that material, and he trusts that no misconstruction
(such as scarcity of deal boards) may arise from an act certainly original)
and based on scientific principles.

Tke Hanayer and Sole Proprietor also takes this opportunity of offer-
ing his acknowledgments to the Public for the very liberal support he
has already received at their hands, and ventures at the same time to
remind his friends (for such he must always consider the Public) that
for the consummation of his fondest hopes, (viz. the realization of a
moderate competency wherewith to retire into private life,} he still looks
to them ; and, relying on a discerning people and conscious of his own
deserts, he will not desert the stage while a. plank of it remains.

The House will open at 6.30, the Performance commencing
precisely at 7 o'clock.

Tickets may be had of H. BKIANT, at the Arctic Printing Office,
Winter Quarters, Northumberland Sound.

N.B. The business of the Printing Office is considerably retarded, in
consequence of the ink free:iny on the rollers. Printer's Devil.

BY AUTHORITY.] [H. Briant, Printer.

Commander Richards, the indefatigable Proprietor of
Her Majesty's Theatre Royal, supported the establishment
and his character with his accustomed spirit and effect,
and was most rapturously and warmly applauded, par-
ticularly at the customary royal message, but this time
varied to home-brewed Allsopp. That name will live for
ages in the recollection of all Polars.

Sir Edward Parry mentions that the zeal of his mana-
ger produced representations even when the thermometer
fell below zero. In the present instance the tempera-
ture was 34 outside, but the after-deck thermometer
is registered as low as 37. It was, however, to my
feelings, uncomfortably cold, even in Her Majesty's box.

Great dissatisfaction appeared to prevail at some por-
tion of the speech of the now Proprietor, intimating an

1852.] PASS THE SHORTEST DAY. 189

intention of going to Melville Island or the ' North Star/
even to Behriug's Strait or the Sandwich Islands, from
whence most liberal offers had been forwarded. Nothing
short of the blackest ingratitude and treachery could in-
duce such a step . the curtain fell in vapour !

Thus M r e passed the Rubicon of this much talked-
of polar winter in Northumberland Sound, the evening
terminating at a supper given on board the ' Pioneer,'
where " bright eyes" as well as " Brother Polars" were
not forgotten.

Scarcely have we breathing time, at this busy season, to
dispel the amusing matters yet floating before our eyes,
ere some other equally great, or greater, event demands
our attention. Surely our good friends in England must
be now pitying the poor unfortunate Polars, deprived
of the light of that cheering and health-supporting lu-
minary, which glaringly but too often reminds them of
some gap in their circle, as well as dwelling on the hor-
rid cold of that inclement, boisterous north, and dream-
ing of bears, wolves, and starvation !

Wait a few moments : Christmas approaches, and less
noise and confusion perhaps prevails, all are intent on
some great object ; mighty preparation is going forward,
of which the principal, as at home, is kept in profound
ignorance : enough that he knows when he sees the bill
of fare, and " pays the piper."

December 25. At midnight certain sounds of music,
not customary, were noticed near my cabin door, and
permission to enter having been granted, a demi-official
note was presented (from the uniform I should imagine
from the Court of Louis Napoleon). This was, I even-
tually found, a Christinas Ode, followed by the same very

190 CHRISTMAS ODE. [December,

well sung ; and, with the best wishes of a merry Christ-
mas, the deputation withdrew.

A CHRISTMAS PIECE.

Awake ! awake ! the Old Year 'a going,

Time flies apace ;
Awake ! awake ! the New Year 's coining,

To take the old one's place.

Arise, arise, good shipmates all,

And do not danger fear ;
Arise, arise, good shipmates all,

To welcome the New Year.

God bless our brave old Commodore,

And our good Commander too :
Not forgetting all our Officers,

And our true and gallant crew !

Sleep on again, and on your brows

May soft repose be seen !
Sleep on again, while in our lay

We '11 sing, God bless the Queen !

H.M.8. Assistance.

Wishing Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., a happy and prosperous New Year.

Composed, I believe, by the Printer or his Devil.

Shortly after prayers I was officially informed by the
Commander of the 'Pioneer' that the State Sledge,
driven by the Queen's coachman, in full uniform (beadle
of the parish), was in waiting, the Union flying instead
of the footmen at the stern. Although such a pageant,
perhaps, to those who know me well, was not quite in ac-
cordance with my taste, still I had some part in the Play
to perform, and knew too well the chords of Jack's hu-
mours to fail in their gratification ; they were most gra-
ciously appreciated. Mounting the state carriage, twelve
of Her Majesty's best breed of Polars conveyed me along-

1852.] VISIT THE PIONEER. 191

side the 'Pioneer:' every precaution had been adopted
to prevent my wetting my feet ; temperature, 36.

Rather pantomimic the change ! Stepping on her
decks I was metamorphosed, in less time than Harlequin's
wand could effect it, into nay proper self, received and
returned the salutes, inspected the men, and sent them
below. Still adhering to my proper character, I in-
spected their preparations for their Christmas dinners,
fancy decorations, etc., all of which were marked by
neatness and extreme comfort, the entire midship divi-
sion of the vessel being, in winter, appropriated to the
crew, more capacious and higher in comparison than the
' Assistance.' I had here an opportunity of witnessing
the superiority of Arnott's stove over the Sylvester, with
less expenditure of fuel.

On the presentation of wine by the leading petty offi-
cer, I addressed a few words to them, expressive of my
satisfaction, and reminding them that the roast beef then
smoking before them was "Her Majesty's own," request-
ed that due honour should be accorded to the health of
" Her Most Gracious Majesty Victoria, God bless her !
and all the Royal Family." This over, I gave the health
of " The ' Pioneers,' and may their enjoyment never be
less than this Christmas !"

I now returned, to preside, at noon, over the opening
festival of my own crew. Here too I found all the luxu-
ries, not forgetting roast beef and plum-puddings. The
arrangements were all perfect, and in good taste, and
our trusty crew were prepared to do justice to their
fare, and enjoy themselves. I felt differently here : why,
I know not. I felt it a more solemn act. These were
my own immediate crew, and I felt a deep interest in

192 CHRISTMAS FARE. [December,

them all. They were yet without fault. I could not help
telling them so, and expressing my earnest hope that
they would return as we came out (a maiden ship?).
Accepting the proffered glass, still of the Queen's own
good port, I gave them the similar toast of "Our Queen,
God bless her!" Never did a more hearty peal, nor
from heartier lungs and more loyal hearts, ever try to
burst those decks. My next duty to my Sovereign be-
ing that to my own family, I gave them " A merry
Christmas, and may God bless you all ! " Taking ad-
vantage of the fog, I retreated to my cabin, possibly not
missed, but the cheers probably continued until they
discovered that they were alone in their glory. It has
never been my lot before to witness more apparent en-
joyment than seemed to pervade the Northern Division :
nothing followed to shake that good opinion.

About six the officers of both vessels, numbering seven-
teen, dined with me, and I think, by the very kind fore-
thought of several warm-hearted fair friends, who will
possibly remember their good deeds with satisfaction,
that my table groaned under as goodly a spread of the
luxuries usually exhibited at this season as it could have
done in Merry England, not omitting the roast beef,
plum-pudding, mince-pies, and frosted cake of our na-
tional predilections. " Poor Polars, how I pitied them !"
Yet they seemed to enjoy themselves, and even to think
of those poor people in England who might not enjoy
themselves with half the genuine feeling. Our Queen
and Consort, our Duke of Cornwall, our relations and
friends there, were not forgotten, not even the banner
cherubs and their mottoes ; nor were our companions
here, though for a time severed, yet possibly to be for a

1852.] THE DAY AFTEK. 193

moment reunited in our spring travels, omitted. The
toast, " The rendezvous, 77 N., 105 W.," was emphati-
cally given and determined on, as if it was already en-
graven on the chart. About 1.30 each retired, to dream
of home.

Many uninterested persons may doubtless be of opi-
nion that these are not matters for the public journal of
the Commander of such an expedition. I am willing to
risk the verdict ; it is the true index of the habits and
customs of the Arctic explorers in 1852-3-4-5-6, etc.
Many an anxious eye may be turned to these particular
pages, when others of dry matter, or of a controversial
complexion, would studiously be avoided. We have but
little sun at this season. Let us enjoy all the brightness
that warm hearts and innocent amusements can afford,
not forgetting those whose feelings are also gratified at
learning that in all our enjoyments their presence alone
was wanting to complete the cup. Sailors ever had, and
will, so long as the good old breed is not extinct, have
their feelings deep as the element they swim on, and no
disguise.

December 26. All quiet ; great disposition to sleep,
in which they were allowed to indulge until the time for
prayers, put off today until eleven. To many a Com-
mander this is the most anxious day. Thankful did I
feel that all had gone well, not a whisper of any defect.
"What would I not give to wander?" however, I feel
assured that we were not forgotten ; so my dreams, at
least, assured. Where will our next winter be passed ?
was more than once started, a most difficult problem
to contemplate : time alone can tell !

VOL. i. f)

194 DEPTH OF WINTER. [December.

December 28. Spring tide of tin's moon, and yet we
have the thermometer down only to 40'7; mercury
partially, not entirely, frozen. How one's feelings appear
to accommodate themselves to the changes ! It is calm,
and therefore we feel it less. I have just returned from
taking exercise on the floe, but without being sensible of
any inconvenience ; and it often occurs to me that it is
injudicious to make so much parade about temperatures,
when, were it not for the thermometers, few would feel
the variation. On the other hand, the knowledge gives
a man assurance of what he can bear, and furnishes him
with a Mentor which prevents his exposure to undue
cold without being prepared to meet it. It is curious,
to the uninitiated, to view the Esquimaux dogs perfectly
satisfied and luxxiriating in the snow at this tempera-
ture ! They have snow-houses, into which they can re-
tire, if cold pinches ; but we do not perceive that they
do so until the breeze makes it felt, and then the tem-
perature rises with the force of the breeze. When the
wind blows strong, with drift, the poor animals howl and
move about evidently uncomfortable ; hunger and frozen
food may in part account for this, but why are they
never frost-bitten ?

One very curious fact, which I have repeatedly noticed,
and to which I never have observed any previous allusion,
is the falling of light bodies during intense cold, and, of
course, calm weather. Does intense cold produce any-
thing to be compared, directly or indirectly, to a vacuum?
Vapour condenses and falls perpendicularly as fine cry-
stalline ice ; ah 1 objects exposed to this vertical action
become covered with rime, but never laterally. The

1853.] THE NEW YEAR. 195

very curious question results, from whence does our
snow, or crystalline stars of ice, corne ? They must be
formed and precipitated from an atmosphere exceeding
32 in temperature : they descend into 42; no less
than 74 variation in temperature. Does the cold me-
dium then compel ah 1 warmer bodies (possibly by con-
densing their vapour on them) to fall as the feather under
the receiver of an air-pump ? Verily we hourly witness
strange things, and but too often how many pass disre-
garded, unnoticed, because others have preceded ! Such
will ever be the case where science is at a discount, or
the possibly ignorant self-constituted philosopher sneers
at the questions which he is unable to answer, or which
happen to interfere with a favoured or popular theory.

THE NEW YEAR OF 1853.

January 1. This morning was ushered in by a song,
composed by our own bard, and sung by the choral band
of 'Assistance :' a copy was delivered to me, but being
in bed, much tired, and suffering from a fall on the ice,
I could not enjoy its intent. The crew however are en-
joying themselves ; so far all right.

Today our gun-room officers entertained their friends.
It passed off much in the same style as Christmas, Com-
mander Richards presiding. I was of course a guest, and
happy to contribute to the general good humour. We
only wanted the missing parts of our Squadron, to make
all complete. Shah 1 we be able to pass it together next
year ? My own impression is adverse : if we should meet
before, undoubtedly our winter stations must be asunder.

o 2

196

COMPARISON OF THERMOMETERS. [January,

January 6. Our temperatures seem now inclined to
reach their lowest point. It is at present 51 '5, and
falling ; yet we do not feel the change. In some of the
journals we may possibly find a minimum temperature
nearly 2 below the standard, but the final results re-
corded in the Meteorological Journal will alone be cor-
rect. The annexed comparison of the seven best will
indicate pretty clearly the value of the instruments :

Standard.

2

6

8

20

3

4

5

-20

21-0

20-0

20-6

21'2

20-4

20-7

21-1

-30

31-0

30-0

30-0

31-5

30-8

31-2

31-5

-40

40-5

39-6

39-8

40-5

40-5

39-5

41-3

-50

50-0

49-0

49-0

51-5

49'0

49-3

51-9

Cold as this is, and my cabin temperature fell to 22,
freezing everything in it (malgre Sylvester), the cold, as
intensity, would not have been noted, unless the officers
at the Observatory had given information.

Last night heavy sounds were heard, and some as-
serted that the reports of guns were distinguished ; but
I suspect that it was merely the result of a distant floe-
crack, as the temperature of the ship causing her to re-
lease herself from the ice, or from portions hanging on
her, frequently produces similar results. The light is
visibly increasing, enabling me, near noon, to note time
easily by a watch.

January 7. The noises were repeated last night, and
a large additional crack between the ship and the Ob-
servatory was noticed. I understand that the ' Pioneer'

1853.] NOISES PRODUCED BY ICE-CRACKS. 197

also shifted her bed. The great masses of snow on the
ice, hourly consolidating from evaporation from beneath,
probably press the floe downwards, and produce these
very sharp sounds, very similar to the snapping of heavy
bolts of iron. The prevailing impression, I believe, is
that it arises from the latter cause. However, this is
not satisfactory : no bolt or channel plate, exposed, has
been known to part ; and if all these sounds proceeded
from such causes, I fear there would be none left to
trust to, next summer.

The mercurial thermometers having indicated tempe-
ratures much below the freezing-point of mercury, and
this affording an opportunity of examining this metal
but seldom presented to quiet and careful research, I
determined to avail myself of it. 240 grains were
weighed in my cabin, contained in a fine porcelain mor-
tar ; the mortar and mercury having been previously
subjected to a continued heat on my stove, to expel any
possible moisture. The mercury was pure, being part
of that which escaped from the standard barometer on
my cabin sofa, and carefully preserved in a stoppered
phial for such experiments. (Temperature 40.) It was
then carefully removed to the thermometer-house, and
the balance found correct. Exposed for twenty minutes
to a temperature of 47'7 the mercury began to cry-
stallize : the circumference became very convex at its
edges of contact with the conical vessel in which it was
contained, and the centre raised to a point when it had
actually congealed ; it lost 1'5 grains. At the first fif-
teen minutes' exposure, the scale in which the mercury
was contained rose very perceptibly as it diminished in

198 FREEZING MERCURY. [January,

weight ; it then recovered itself ; and finally, on being
re-weighed in my cabin, was deficient T75 grains.

In order to determine its effect on water, I turned the
frozen mass into a tumbler of water containing six fluid
ounces at 47 '5: the mercury simply became encased
in ice, and when it at length flowed on the bottom, the
temperature indicated 44 '5, a difference only of 3. I
was anxious to determine the form of its crystal : this
was a very difficult matter. It was attended with great
inconvenience in the open air, and the change was
screened by the superficial crust forming before the body
became solidified. The transition from the solid to fluid
could be better watched : this I tried. It then occurred
to me that by using a large open-mouthed jar, contain-
ing half a gallon of spirit of wine or alcohol cooled down
to 47 '5, that I could leisurely, in my cabin (aided
only by caudle-light), watch its motions, and freeze or
liquefy at pleasure. In this I succeeded, remarking
however that several travelling mercurial and other
thermometers presumed to read below 42 ! But to the
result of my examination : previous to freezing, or at the
instant of returning to fluidity, I noticed that the mer-
cury assumed a very active motion, resembling living
polypi, parts moving in circles with great velocity.
Positive crystallization I could not detect, but the in-
clination appeared to be nearer to the forms of lead
or bismuth on cooling, the surface lines being clearly
rectangular, or a beautiful network. This was on the
semifluid ; in its dense form nothing could be traced.
Although much exposed today to low temperature, no
change in my ordinary cabin dress was found requisite,

1853.] LOW TEMPERATURES NOT SENSIBLY FELT. 199

although occasionally I inquired if my nose exhibited
any symptoms of the whiteness attending frost-bite.
The dogs were more than usually playful, and fond of
being caressed ; once I thought that they would have
been glad of my seal-skin rnits by way of luncheon.
However generous one might be at another time, the
present temperature rendered it inconvenient.

January 6. This evening the 'Pioneer's' party fur-
nished their quota of amusement, as may be learned
from the following programme :

H.M.S.V. PIONEER,

NORTHUMBERLAND SOUND, POLAR REGIONS.

LIEUT. SHERAKD OSBOEN lias the honour to announce to the
Polar Public in particular, and the World at large, that

THE QUEEN'S ARCTIC PHILHARMONIC SOCIETY

will hold its General Annual Meeting on Thursday evening, the 6th

of January, under the immediate patronage of
CAPTAIN SIE EDWAED BELCHEE, C.B.

AND THE OFFICERS AND SHIP'S COMPANY OF

H.M.S. ASSISTANCE.

When the distinguished members of that Society, as well as other local
Musical Celebrities, will take prominent parts.

200 PIONEER'S CONCERT. [Jam/ary,

The Evening's Entertainment will commence with the full Baud
playing, under the leadership of our

Polar Costa HERE HAEWOOD,

A GRAND FANTASIA, altered from Count Hum's Les Adicux
a Boeuf et Biere.

PART I.

Sentimental Section, led by the Primo Tenore, SIGNOE ALL A ED
(Perp. Grand.) will execute various select Solos; and Duets by Mr. W.
WOOD, S.C., SIGNOEI SINNETT and CUSTANCE, all Members
of the Q.A.P.S. Followed by

TIN PAS MELE by MONSIEUR C. ALLEN.
The Comic Section, under the able baton of Professore DON JUAN
EICAEDO, will consist of an elegant selection of Melodies by DONS
JOHN and EICHARD HALES, DON BENJAMIN YOUNG, and
DON GEORGE COUSINS, a galaxy of Buffo Singers unequalled in
these Regions.

PART II.

La Valse des Baleines and Narwhal Polka ! by the Band. Followed
by a Grand Terpsichoreau Interlude, by Messrs. DICKENS, BATCHE-
LOR, and ALLEN.

The Serio-Cornic Section, led by that well-known Basso HEEU
HORATIO WEBB, and exhibiting such names as

HEER OEGAN, HEEE EDEY, AND HEER DICKENS !
will assuredly fulfil the most sanguine expectation of lovers of the
Anglo-Saxon School.

The Cm-tain will drop to the Glorious Strains of

GOD SAVE OTlliyiJ THE QUEEN !

The Proprietor need hardly remind the Public, that having secured
them a Musical Feast, in which the whole Talent of the North will be
concentrated, that Her Majesty's Theatre and the Italian Opera are
entirely done up, and the Sole Lessee and Manager is supposed to have
absconded with his Scenery and Elastic Stage ! to Beechey Island, to
divert the Depot.

The general arrangements of Seats, Lights, and Refreshments, have
been placed under the catership of Mr. Jos. Organ, and Mrs. Fenning
has engaged to supply Ices gratis.
BY AUTHORITY.] [H. Briaiit, Printer.

1853.] OBSERVATIONS OP ARAGO. 201

This amusement, remarkably well got up, consisted
of a selection of very good songs ; and what rendered
them to many the more interesting, particularly to the
officer part of the audience, was their almost perfect ori-
ginality.

The lower deck of the ' Pioneer,' warmed by Arnott's
stove, dry, and much more comfortable than my cabin,
accommodated both crews, mustering about eighty-six.
The entertainment closed with the National Anthem.
The temperature has not risen above 46 the last
four days, exhibiting a mean temperature for the inter-
val of 53-20, or 55'61 for three days.

January 15. The following may prove interesting to
inquirers after the extreme cold of our position.

I observe, in that excellent work of Sir Henry De la
Beche (on Geology), that M. Arago asserts, " that in no
part of the earth, and in no season, will a thermometer
raised two or three metres above the ground, and pro-
tected from all reverberation, attain the 46th Centigrade
degree." Secondly, " In the open air, the temperature
of the air, whatever be the place or season, never at-
tains the 31st Centigrade degree." Thirdly, " The great-
est degree of cold which has been observed upon our
globe with the thermometer suspended in air, is 50
Centigrade degrees below zero." Fourthly, " The tem-
perature of the water of the sea, in no latitude and in
no season, rises above 30 Centigrade degrees." We have
been informed that Sir James Ross registered the air
a t 60; of this however I have not at present any
direct evidence. As to any question arising to affect
the registry of our instruments, there can be no possible

202 LOWEST TEMPERATURE. [January,

doubt. The observers have been too numerous to allow
of mistake : the self-acting index tells its own tale, ad-
verse observers watch every decimal division, and the
lowest minimum thermometer, after severe investigation,
has been rejected. I copy the following from the Me-
teorological Journal: "January 12. About nine this
evening, being at dinner with my weekly party of offi-
cers, I was informed that the temperature had fallen
below 62. As this was a question not to be casually
passed over, I visited the Observatory, and remained
walking about in my simple cabin dress for some time ;

62'5 was the lowest which I, as well as others, read
at the standard. But the minimum thermometer indices,
read next day at eight A.M., only gave 62 '0, 61-6,

66'0, 63 '2. The night was bright and calm : no
sensation of cold. 63 '2 is the external exposed ther-
mometer, but was never read, excepting by its index, at
that graduation. This external thermometer, after severe
testing under the boat as low as 40, with the entire
range of spirit and mercury thermometers, was selected
as the standard Observatory gauge : supported on an
open frame, attached to two pikes about one foot asun-
der, it was subjected, uncovered, to all the winds of
heaven. That was read at 62'5, and indicated what
I have rejected, 63 "2.

January 15. I was induced, whilst writing these re-
marks, to turn to Parry's work, page 145 (first voyage,
1819-20). On the 15th of February he remarks as his
coldest, the thermometer standing at 54 for fifteen
hours and a half, but his maximum on that day was up
to 32. Looking over the Observatory record, I no-

1853.]

RANGE OF EXTREME COLD.

203

tice that the following indications of low continuous
temperatures prevail :

46 and below, 156 continuous hours.
-50 89

-52 88

-55 52

58 to 62-5 14

As the tabular register may never meet the eye of the
casual reader, I will here insert eleven cold days in Ja-
nuary, from the 5th to 1 5th inclusive :

Maximum.

Minimum.

Mean,
24 readings.

January 5

42-5

48-0

45-08

6

47-0

51-5

49-02

7

37-0

49-3

38-01

8

39-0

47-5

43-00

9

46-5

50-0

47-97

10

49-6

56-0

54-17

11

50-5

57-0

54-31

12

53-5

59-5

56-25

13

45-0

62-5

54-23

,, W

. 46-0

50-0

48-00

15

42-0

52-0

47-65

Mean Temperature for 264 hours, 48-88.

If this will not satisfy the appetite of the cold-loving
hero, I mil gladly invalid in his favour.

Let us now review our proceedings of late. We have
all been absolute boys, some old ones nevertheless.

204 ABSENCE OP FROST-BITES. \Jamary,

We leave (I am as bad as the rest) our warm cabins, at
say 50, rush ou deck and on to the floe, after science
or Bruin, it matters not, at take the mean, 49; 49
+ 32 = 81 below freezing, and 50 + 49 = 99 change
of temperature, without damage !

We have throughout been thinking, or rather talking,
of ourselves we do happen to think more deeply of the
crew ; but thanks to the unremitting attention of our
medical men, and to the general care taken to prevent
exposure, I should be disposed to assert, in my proper
capacity of the Commander, that no official report of
frost-bite has yet reached my ears. To descend perhaps,
and allow that once one of my men " took his Captain
by the nose," under pretence that he thought his Cap-
tain's nose was frost-bitten, and his warm (?) hand could
restore it, " is not quite true." But I totally and indig-
nantly repel the very low insinuation, and believe that
the blood from his heart flowed so rapidly to the end
of his arm, that it saved my nose by the application of
the back of his warm hand, and I thank him : even
if it was a deceit, I forgive him. We command here ;
no bed of roses nevertheless no absolute command is !
Ask the fathers of families, and this is not a small one !

To continue the matter of low temperatures. They
made no impression here ; the pains of forehead or lungs
some might have experienced, but they were never men-
tioned in my presence. The only projection. about which
I felt interest was my nose, and upon this point (not a
very prominent feature) I felt a sort of monomania, some-
thing like, going into action, that I must be wounded in
a leg, and nowhere else. I never intended to be killed,

1853.] FREEZING SCALE OF MERCURY. 205

and so I told my surgeon when that idea was realized,
but I am constantly asking people to view my nose.
But as I have so far wandered into self, and I know that
certain professional men who interest themselves about
me will expect to know, I will merely say that I expected
certain wounds, cuts, frost-bites of youth, etc., to trouble
me. I have suffered intensely, more than can be ex-
plained, but nothing to disqualify me, in any manner,
for this important command, or the liabilities attached
thereto. My feelings are my own ; so long as I perform
all my duties, who cares for them ?

Our present temperatures are low enough to satisfy
most men, but if, in truth, 90 can be truly found in
this region, I would almost stop to see it.

Mercury. The freezing-point at which pure mercury
(not impure amalgams of spurious mercury at low prices,
but volatilized, distilled, adapted for thermometers, etc.)
should congeal still continues to haunt me. Unfortu-
nately, I left behind me every work on this subject to
which I could, as to late date, refer. That 39 '5 is
not the correct point of congelation our standard mercu-
rial thermometers prove, nor do they always contract to
the same division. The congelation of mercury does not
appear to form any part of the acknowledged divisions
on these thermometric (?) instruments : the mercury ther-
mometers supplied to this Expedition from Greenwich, as
well as Kew, were graduated below 40. I had myself
remarked that no notice was taken of them in the record,
under the assumption probably that they could not, dare
not, act contrary to print, but I ventured to differ, why
I will state.

206

READINGS OF THERMOMETERS. [January,

On the 17th December I had noted that the mercury
thermometers did not cease to act at 40 '3, 40 '0,
40'0: this excited my attention; weekly I transcribe
the register. On the 28th I noticed that the registry of
all the mercurial thermometers ceased at the same indi-
cation, on the 4th January at 42 '3, by standard. Un-
fortunately I did not notice it earlier, but on the 23rd
of January, on my copying the rough register, I inserted
the following order : " The mark / to be prefixed to D
when the mercury is congealed ; p f, when partially con-
gealed. The numbers 19, 35, 34, 2, read to 40 and
below. The divisions below must be estimated, i. e, the
point where it congeals, or declines moving further."
He (Mercury) had stopped most religiously at 39 '3,
39-2, 39-0, 39-0; but in this case he was under
martial law, and he knew he must move. I suppose he
made his mind up to it, for I find the following curious
register, taking care to satisfy myself frequently by per-
sonal inspection.

Noon.

Standard
Spirit.

19

35

34

2

January 26

43-0

42-0

42-0

41-2

> ;

46-2

Est d 46'0

50-0*

3> ))

31
February 3

45-4
45-7

42'9

46-0

45-0
42-0

49-0*
42-0

BROKEN.

4TO

., 10

41-7

41-5

41-5

40-6

21

44-5

12-5

42-5

42-0

How ciime this change?

1853.]

TEST-THERMOMETER FITTED.

207

Noon.

Standard
Spirit.

19

35

34

2

February 2 1

43-8

43-0

43-0

43-4*

22

45-1

44'0

44-0

43-2*

)>

42-2

41-3

41-2

41-2*

JJ

26

J> JJ

41-6
42-1
42-3

40-6
41-0
41-2

40-6
41-2
41-2

BROKEN.

40-0*
41-0*
41-0*

JJ ))

42-0

41-0

41-3

40-0*

March 3

43-3

42-2

42-2

41-3

8

44-2

41-2

41-3

41-1

After all this, I ask, who will dispute the power of a
Captain of one of Her Majesty's ships-of-war ? Noon
he has invariably controlled, eight A.M. and eight P.M.
also; but here the thermometers are compelled to con-
demn themselves or the mercury.

With these matters fresh on my mind, I constructed
the mercurio-alcoholic thermometer D, being a glass-stem

* If mercury freezes at 39, how is it that it continues to rise and
fall, in conformity with the spirit, between 3 9 and 46?

208 CONGELATION OF ALE. \Juniiary,

spirit-thermometer with graduated stem inserted into a
test-tube containing four ounces of pure mercury, well
corked and covered with four layers of bladder, to pro-
tect it from the air; it was self-balanced in a kind of
test-rack, and admitted of a pendulum motion to deter-
mine its freezing-point.

It happened however, unfortunately, that this thermo-
meter never did its duty satisfactorily, and all its records
are in such a state of confusion that they have been re-
jected. We may not, it is true, be confined to this high
latitude, but it is probable that we may have an opportu-
nity of pursuing this investigation more rigidly at stated
temperatures next season.

Next to mercury, it occurred to me to partially freeze
Allsopp's ale, and reserve the unfrozen fluid for future
examination : congelation took place at 22" 5. That
frozen and drained from one-third of the fluid, when
again reduced to a fluid state, was very insipid ; the re-
mainder concentrated.* This mode of concentrating
cider is practised in America, three barrels making one
of good quality.

January 24. Already we begin to feel the increase of
daylight, four hours (between ten and two) being now
available. The light red tint of the southern horizon
also intimates that the prodigal (sun) may shortly be
expected to exhibit his cheering and animating rays : we
shall probably exhibit a sort of chameleon tinge, inclining
to dead tea-green or an incipient case of jaundice !

The late extreme cold induced me to make experiments

* This concentrated has been tried since ray arrival in England, and
found to be excellent quite a liqueur.

1853.] ALCOHOL AT LOW TEMPERATURES. 209

upon the expansion of alcohol under low temperatures.
The instrument for this purpose was furnished by Mr.
Glaisher, of the Royal Observatory, as well as a supply
of the same spirit from which his thermometers had
been filled. Unfortunately those who operate in Eng-
land seldom dream of the mean temperature under which
such observations would be conducted here, and have
failed not only to supply gloves adapted to 50 or
60, but also to warn those who may not have brought
their brains with them, that 10 to 20 below the con-
gealing point of mercury is hot work. The raw expe-
rimenter might easily lose his hands or life, should he
inadvertently take up the bottle containing half a gallon
of alcohol at 58 or 60, without the hands being
properly protected.

We find that the unfortunate artilleryman, servant of
Colonel Sabiue during the voyage of Sir Edward Parry
in 1819, in consequence of endeavouring to rescue the
dipping-needle from the flaming Observatory, was com-
pelled to undergo amputation of part of four fingers on
one hand and three on the other ; and it is but natural
to suppose, from all the causes then in action, that the
instrument itself could not have cooled down below
43, the prevailing temperature away from the fire :
what then would be the effect of a person tumbling and
breaking a bottle of alcohol, and shedding it over his
hands and person at the temperature of 58? Even
with double gloves, lined with fur, I felt the cold sharp-
ly, and my hands generally suffered, but more particu-
larly the nails and points of forefingers and thumbs,
throughout the winter, rendering adhesive straps neces-

VOL. I. p

210 ALCOHOL AT LOW TEMPERATURES. \JaniUiry.

sary to close the cracked skin ; resulting solely, I be-
lieve, from constantly handling metal instruments and
tools at very low temperatures. The affection was so se-
vere, that I termed it the finger fever ; all the nails be-
ing more or less affected, and, as they advanced, exhi-
biting corrugated transverse ridges, with spots occasion-
ally ; however, I eventually found that these experi-
ments could be satisfactorily conducted in the Observa-
tory, after cooling the materials outside, by consenting
to the loss of a few degrees.

Better however that I should suffer, than, by any
neglect of mine, some other unfortunate of lower rank
should be crippled, and obtain but very inadequate re-
muneration, although loss of fingers to me would be
very little short of loss of life. I think my spirited and
talented friend, Mr. Glaisher, might have whispered,
" But, my good Sir, when alcohol is reduced to 94 be-
low the freezing-point of water, pray take care of your
fingers." True it is that, internally, alcohol is a heating
spirit, but we have no name for it under these burning
circumstances.

211

CHAPTER IX.

Rise of Temperature. A Bear shot. Termination of Darkness. Re-
appearance of the Sun. Death of a Marine. Cold Period of March.
Table of Temperatures. A She-Bear and her Cubs. Sledges in-
spected. Feet Wrappers. Departure of the Sledges. Beacons.
Cairns. Parhelia. Inland Excursion. Wavy Ice. Cooking Ap-
paratus. Lamps. Return of Depot Division.

ON the 26th of January we experienced the wind strong
from the southward, with heavy snow-drift ; the tempe-
rature rising with the wind and spring-tide from 42
to 31. From habit we now consider 40 as our
scale, 30 being talked of as the comfortable, or not
unbearable, travelling temperature : I dissent from any
such absurdity. If we should remain many years longer
in these regions, I really begin to fancy, provided we
could bring our inclinations to agree with Esquimaux
food and condition, etc., that we could endure any cold
under the moon, for we are now perfectly satisfied that
nothing here, under the sun, would be unpleasant. Lat-
terly I have extended my walks to the summit of Mount
Beaufort, with a temperature of 44; but, although the
simple exertion of ascent proved unpleasant to the lungs,
no sensation of cold equal to that produced by a low

212

A BEAR SHOT.

\January,

temperature of 20, with light breeze in the face, was
experienced.

January 28. Early this morning, about two A.M., the
dogs gave notice that a stranger was in the grounds,
and, by their yelping, probably within a few yards of the
Observatory. Lieutenant May and Mr. Pym followed up
the " cry," and, led forward by the dogs, came up with
a bear, which was brought to bay by the dogs on an ele-
vated ice hummock. Poor Bruin was evidently puzzled,
doubtless calculating on being beset by so many wolves ;
but his fate was soon settled by a rifle ball, when the
dogs rushed in, and would, if not kept down, have made
a warm meal. Three of the pups, evidently quite unac-
customed to be in such presence, were very daring, but
fortunately escaped unscathed. Even at this early hour
volunteers were found to flay and bring in the skin ;
no accounting for taste !

About this period I constructed a vane, to determine
the effect of the direct force of the wind on a thermo-

meter exposed to its full influence, a, compared with its
opposite, sheltered, b. The results were too trifling to

1853.] TERMINATION OF DARKNESS. 213

afford any reliable result. The dotted line c represents
the covering board on the lee side.

This will close the month of January : not much un-
like a gloomy English November, but not at all realizing
the very cheerless long winter nights which have been so
frequently dinned into our ears, that I was almost in-
duced to think of sleeping them away on " eider-down
beds " but, no less strange than true, these were recom-
mended as absolutely indispensable !

February commences our first spring month, and we
begin truly to feel that the days perceptibly lengthen.
All are looking anxiously forward to the 18th, for the
reappearance of our cheering luminary, which will find
our travellers in high spirits and with some impatience
to try their powers on the floe.

About the 14th and 15th the weather underwent un-
expected changes, the temperature rising as high as 2 '5
above zero. The magnetometer also has of late exhi-
bited such sudden and incomprehensible disturbances,
that I determined on the construction of an independent
direct instrument, on the plan of the old portable Decli-
nometer, but in the present case substituting a heavy
nine-inch magnet for the magnetic telescope, and intro-
ducing, in Y's beneath it, a brass telescope (adapted from
my sextant), with the scale engraved on mica and placed
in contact with the object-glass. A house was also con-
structed of snow bricks, affording a distance of twenty-
five feet between the two instruments, and a huge block
of ice introduced for the pedestal.*

On the 18th our younger men ascended Britannia

* This instrument came into action on the 21st of March.

214 REAPPEARANCE OF THE SUN. {February,

Mount, about fifteen hundred feet above the sea-level, in
order to observe the sun at noon. On Mount Beaufort,
about two hundred feet above the floe, they were prepa-
ring the base of a very large cairn, or tower, to mark
our visit and place of wintering. A cheer from this party
afforded me the agreeable tidings that he was seen from
thence ; and had it been the Houses of Parliament in
flames, we could not have hastened up the Mount with
greater anxiety. There he was at last ! Many and very
dry questions were put by some of our humorous tars.
He appeared very much distorted, like an oblong grid-
iron, and but just showed his golden but intensely bright
rays over the outline of the distant southern hills.

The preparations for ice travel are now assuming a
more active and decided character. The order to be
ready for service on the 15th of March has gone forth, the
crews are all told off, and the respective sledge banners
assigned, to be formally delivered at the general review.
My own peculiar ideas of the weather about the 10th of
March will prevent any decided motion before that pe-
riod. Many now are the discussions which take place
as to the possible routes which Sir J. Franklin may have
taken ; but I firmly believe, from what most of us have
witnessed, that, if he entered this Polar Sea " to follow
the pack," no ship ever constructed could withstand
its customary pressure. If he entered the Great Arctic
Ocean, or Polar Basin, there he might be drifted for ever ;
for it never can, in my mind, be at rest. These reflec-
tions however belong rather to the end of our cruise. If
he passed through Jones's or Smith's Sounds, it is pos-
sible we may have the happiness of meeting some of his

1853.] DEATH OP A MARINE. 215

party among the Esquimaux, for I never can divest my-
self of the impression that their parties still continue to
visit those lands.

February 27. On this morning, the anniversary of
my own birth, died suddenly, but not unexpectedly,
William Cutbush, Marine. Prom the period of quitting
England he had been suffering from pulmonary disease,
and I cannot but express my surprise that such a man
should have been selected or allowed to embark on such
a service. In England he might have lived years : here
his death was inevitable. To the public authorities I
leave the case, as that also of our Marines generally.
He was interred on the summit of Mount Beaufort, and
over his remains that huge stone pyramid will be erect-
ed : a stone, to which a leaden plate is secured, bears the
following, struck with metal punches :

SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF
WILLIAM CUTBUSH,

Private, Royal Marines, of H.M.S. Assistance,

Native of Northiam, Sussex,

Who died on board on the 27th February, 1853,

after a protracted illness, from disease of the lungs,

AGED 34 YEARS AND 4 MONTHS.

He served with credit in the Uoyal Marine Corps for a period of 1 6
years 4 months, earning two badges and the Syrian Medal ; twelve
months in H.M.S. Assistance, respected by Captain, Officers, and
Crew, and beloved by all who knew him ; and died deeply lamented
by his shipmates.

" HAPPY ABE THEY WHO DIE IN THE LORD."

I was unfortunately (possibly from taking severe cold
in examining the excavating of the grave) incapacitated
from performing the last ceremony, the first time in my

216 COLD PERIOD OF MARCH. [Marc/1,

life. Commander Richards, attended by the officers and
crews of both vessels, officiated.

February 28. Time flies ! here is the last day of
February : daylight at eight, temperature still hanging
between 37 and 47, and our "third portion" of the
winter fast approaching.

March 6. The temperature for the last two days has
maintained a mean of 52'S3and 52'29; maximum
47'5, minimum 57'3; enough to satisfy the great-
est epicure that there is a cold season between February
27 and March 10! Possibly I should be one of the
foremost to ridicule any man who asserted that any laws
guide these matters ; but rain is expected at St. Swi-
thin's, summer commences in Canada and Nova Scotia
almost to a day, and if any one will take the trouble to
consult meteorological journals of cold climates, he will be
able to fear cold, at all events, at particular dates : many
chances at dice are calculated to much greater mischief
and with almost unerring precision. But I shall not be
satisfied until the 10th, or even the 15th, is past: no
travellers will move before the latter date, and my move-
ments depend very much on the matter. My chief ob-
ject is to push across the depots to the south side, be-
tween the 10th and 25th, for I have my misgivings if
the final change, adapted to long journeys, will take place
until the 25th. The orders however still stand for the
15th of March, and on that day the crews will be mus-
tered.

March 13. On the next page will be found a table
of temperatures, embracing the last ten days, with the
preceding maximum temperature.

1853.]

TABLE OF TEMPERATURES.

217

1853.

Maximum.

Minimum.

Mean.

March 3

-16-0

-35-5

-22-60

4

37-0

49-0

46-27'

5

17-5

57'3

52-83

O

1 '

on

6

49-5

54-5

52-29

M

7

48-0

58-5

51-96

T

3

38-5

46-0

41-54

9

31-5

40-5

36-83

-3

O

in

29-5

40-0

35-08

r 1

11

34-0

45-0

39-94

a

12

34-5

40-5

38-13

^

13

31-0

40-0

37-64 .,

14

14-0

33-0

26-50

On the 14th of March the Surgeon inspected the
crews, and reported sound.

The outlines of the land are now becoming very dis-
tinct, and I have strong impressions that some of our
neighbouring inlets may afford a nearer course to the
Northern Sea ; but this I cannot venture to look into
until I have pushed this depot across to Cape Lady
Franklin. All our sledge crews are now eager for the
work ; and if any vestige remains, northerly or southerly,
our parties this season will, I feel quite satisfied, settle
the question most satisfactorily.

The morning of the 16th of March discovered the
same old lady and her impudent cubs again on their
way hither. This time it was determined that order
and method should prevail, affording general amuse-
ment. All hands were summoned, and the sportsmen

218 A SHE-BEAR AND HER CUBS. \J\larch,

par excellence were to be seen carefully loading their
guns. No one was permitted to slam a door, or quit
the ship ; the utmost caution was observed. Our lead-
ing sportsmen were passed to the ' Pioneer/ one division
in readiness to push to the south-west, another party
to the south-east, the seven dogs and sportsmen about
south. I did not join the hunt. However, some men
there are who will spoil sport . who he was I know not,
but before the enemy was within shot, he fired. The
dogs however, on this occasion, did the business. Keep-
ing the old lady in constant alarm and worry for her
cubs, which the dogs dashed at, the sportsmen soon got
within sensible firing distance ; she fought nobly for her
cubs, but it was useless to contend with musket-balls.
All three were killed ! not however before the mother
had given our principal, but worthless dog, a scratch
which sent him away yelping, sickening him of such
work for the future : a Dane, not an Esquimaux : he af-
terwards committed thefts and other improprieties, and
ended his troublesome life by an act of suicide, with a
spring-gun set for a wolf.

On the 17th of March a most decided change took place
in the weather, the temperature rising, at noon, to +5'5,
on the 18th to +21-5, and on the 19th to +14'6. I
consider the 17th, therefore, as the break of the season.

We now cleared away the hole for the tide-gauge un-
der the stern, cutting through seven feet of ice. Owing
to the daily increasing weight of the surrounding snow,
the ice began to give under the pressure, and around the
ship in particular the snow became uncomfortably wet.
Taking the height of snow above the solid ice at fifteen

1853.] WATER RISES OVER THE FLOE. 219

feet, and the mean thickness of ice at six feet, we should
obtain twenty-one feet as the apparent thickness of the
floe within twenty yards of our sides. All the ice be-
tween us and the ' Pioneer' is much thicker, and that
between us and the shore grounds, where we had our
tide-pole in sixteen feet ! The bondjide off-shore floe of
a season does not, I believe, exceed six feet in thickness,
and should you come into collision with it, will find any
increase quite immaterial : it does its work as surely as
an iceberg of six hundred feet.

To return to our tide-pole : no sooner had this hole
been completed, than the water rushed up similar to an
Artesian spring, covering our promenades with about
ten inches' depth of water, and causing some fears for
the sinking of the snow wreath before alluded to, now
representing, very prettily, a heavy white roller about to
overwhelm the ship.

At times I did not feel quite satisfied that mischief
might not occur. Our fire-hole, abreast of the ship, had
been kept open all winter, and no such overflow as this
had occurred. Taking also into consideration that the
enormous weight firmly attached to both sides might,
by some sudden movement, be released on either; the
strain which any such sudden action must produce
would materially injure the ship. We had no remedy
but to " let well alone," and all would probably in due
time work its own course, irrespective of any feeble ef-
forts that we could make ; independent of which, it was
not a time to weary our crew with any unnecessary ex-
ertion. With the low temperature which must yet pre-
vail for some time, and probably below zero, this must

220 SLEDGES INSPECTED. \Mafch,

soon freeze into a still more solid mass. I began now to
repent having altered my determination, of weeks past,
to start the depot on the 16th: but we live in glass
houses. If any accident resulted, and the party had
started before the 21st, blame would have been heaped
on me. " Success is wisdom ; " but to keep up success,
leave no hole in your jacket uumended. I was per-
suaded easily (for this reason) to await the 22nd.

On the 17th of March it was calm, with the thermo-
meter at +1. I inspected eight sledges, officers and
crews, in travelling order, and complete as in tables in
Appendix. The first division, now about to start, under
Commander Richards, numbered six sledges.

Commander Richards 8 men.

Lieutenant Osborn 8

Lieutenant May 11

Mi-. Pym, Mate 11

Mr. Allard, Master (additional) 11

Mr. Ricard, Assistant-Surgeon (additional) 8

57 Men. 1770 Rations.

On the 19th, blanket wrappers, travelling-boots, mits,
etc., were completed. I am not aware that these sub-
jects have been discussed, but they are matters which to
the landsman require explanation ; and where success
attends any particular mode of dress, any habit of travel,
etc., it becomes of importance to the general interests of
this service that it should be recorded, for good or evil,
to be followed or avoided. Hitherto all our attention
has been most intensely directed to the foot equipment.
I have throughout disliked the carpet boots : for tra-
velling they are useless. The last Expedition, I believe,

1853.]

FEET WRAPPERS.

221

established the canvas boots, the Hudson Bay custom,
the blanket wrapper. This latter is formed of a piece of
good thick blanket, of at least fifteen inches square.

It is very important that these feet wrappers should
be well put on, and elastic socks should have been pro-
vided to keep them in their places : the stoppage, to
replace them, will seldom be permitted ; and exposure to
cold in doing so may inflict frost-bite. The boot must
not be tight, and no pressure should be allowed at any
part : I fear the canvas straps on the instep of those now
made may prove injurious.

MfircJt 22. At 7.30, temp. + 22. The depot-sledges,
charged with fifty days' depot for twenty-four men, or
twelve hundred rations, independent of ten days' for the
party, consisting of "sixty-seven men, took their depar-
ture, under the command of Commander Richards, the
remainder of the 'crews accompanying them to the point
where they all made sail ; each sledge being fitted either
with sheers or masts, according to their separate idea of
sledgemanship, and using the tent bottom, about nine
feet by twelve, as a sail. They carried also with them
a whale-boat and light ice-boat, on sledges prepared to
support them. These, with the depot, were to be se-

222 DEPARTURE OF THE SLEDGES. [MarcA,

cured at Cape Lady Franklin, about twenty-five miles
distant from our outer island, the party returning to
prepare for their extended trip. The morning was fresh
and gloomy, with the breeze freshening from south-east,
temp. +22; but as all were equipped and eager for a
move, and I had not the least doubt as to the weather
improving, I was glad to start them, and accompanied
the little fleet to the outer point of the bay, where we
parted, giving God-speed. As they receded and gained
sufficient distance to be grouped, they resembled very
much a small pirate fleet, no two preserving the same
appearance of rig, and, as might naturally be expected
at their onset, many failures and loss of spars resulted
before they finally cleared the rough ice.

About ten, Mr. Allard's sledge, having broken down,
with the whale-boat, returned : another was immediately
equipped, and he was packed off again at 11.50. As I
strongly suspected, Mr. Allard reported the ice to be
soft in the cracks and very difficult for travelling ; how-
ever, our scouts from the hill saw him moving on cheer-
ily towards the outer island before nightfall.

On the 23rd the morning proved dull, but the day
turning out fine, with a temperature varying from 5 to
10, I took advantage of this lull to rescue our thermo-
meters, buried in the snow-heap since October 25, but
now sinking very perceptibly, owing to the general dif-
fusion of water over the surface. The object in view was
to prove the question, as to what distance or thickness
of snow cold will penetrate vertically, or horizontally.
Six's thermometers, if properly constructed, will register
maxima as well as minima temperatures ; but I must

1853.]

THERMOMETER BLOCK.

223

candidly say, that I never saw but two that stood their
work, and they belonged to a water-bottle, constructed
for rue for obtaining water and determining the tempe-
rature at extreme depths (twelve hundred fathoms or
more), that could be relied on. The block of snow in
question measured sixteen feet by eight on the surface,
was eight feet in height above the ice of the floe, and
constructed of large blocks of solid snow, cemented at
the joints, or " pointed," with wet snow, which in a few
minutes formed into ice. The interior was filled in and
well trodden with loose snow, spars being placed where
the thermometers were to be inserted : their withdrawal
left firm cylindrical holes. Next to the more perfect ope-
rations of Dame Nature, this, I believe, comprehended
all that was desirable. The diagram will exhibit the dis-
position of the thermometers, inserted when the tempe-
rature was at zero and their indices set.

c-

O3

No. 1, centre, 4 feet from N.E. and S.W. sides, 8 from N.W.,

6 feet deep.

No. 2, 2 feet deep, 2 feet from sides.
No. 3, 3 3
No. 4, 4 ,,4

No. 5, 5 ,,5 from S. and E., 3 from N.
No. 6, 6 ,,2 from sides.

224 ILLUMINATED BEACONS. \_March,

But great confusion in withdrawing them occurred,
by which all confidence was destroyed. The results I
have ; and they convey to my mind merely the fact that
this bank of snow did withstand a much greater amount
of cold than I had contemplated, but they were not
spirit, nor reliable, instruments. About this period also,
and whilst Commander Richards was absent to the
southward, I tried several experiments on illuminating
beacon poles by sheets of tin ; a cask was also covered
with tin-foil, etc. ; but unfortunately the point where he
landed was not in sight from the Observatory hill, where
these marks were erected, nor did his track permit his
noticing them. A variable or revolving heliotropic vane
was constructed ; but the cold, acting on the metal spin-
dle and collars, did not permit it to traverse freely ; it
may be described in the Appendix.

The customary labour, and wear and tear of clothing
generally, in the construction of cairns, is overlooked by
our superiors when they issue orders on these heads :
one half-hour injures boots, mits, and clothing, more
than can be conceived. Nor can the officer look idly on :
he therefore feels, as well as sees, the necessity of provi-
ding special gloves or hedgers' mits for this duty. I di-
rected extra boots and mits, faced with seal-skin, to be
issued to the cairn builders of my own division, where
these duties entailed on them especially, this laborious
species of work, and for which no provision had been
suggested.

OO

In our present occupation of adding to the building
on the summit of Mount Beaufort, day after day, using
carts to bring up the stones, the wear and tear of clothes

1853.] WANT OF MATERIAL FOR CAIRNS, ETC. 225

was also found to be very tedious.* Independent of our
instructions, the would-be monitors, who write to see
themselves in print in the public journals, insist on our
building cairns in even impossible localities. If any of
these should be honourable (right or wrong) Members of
Parliament, I would advise them to amend the next vote
for Arctic Service by the increase of the supply for the
purchase of gloves, etc., as well as of some simple suc-
cedaneum for the cairns themselves. It is not often that
stones can be found, and when found, that they can be
detached from their ice-bound beds. Many shovels and
picksf are destroyed, which break easily in cold weather.
Our predecessors omitted to hint at this ; indeed many
here have kept their secrets most religiously, to our dis-
comfort. But it is really grating to my feelings to hear
the oft-repeated tale amongst my crew of " how many
pairs of mits they bought, how many were supplied by
Government, and that they are now reduced to take up
Purser's." In this manner the Commander often hears
very unpleasant truths, beyond his power to remedy !

March 25. The depot division having departed, and
left me free, I determined to avail myself of the inter-
val by exploring one of the creeks at the southern end
of this Sound, which seemed to promise some chance of
connection with the Northern Sea. I was under the im-
pression that it might possibly, by slight portage, enable

* In England pay might enable a man to devote part of the sum
given for the endurance of such a climate : but no money here could
buy a serviceable pair of gloves or clothing !

f All these tools were wretched, very inferior even for ice, and kept
our blacksmith constantly employed.

VOL. I. Q

226 FALSE DEER-TRACKS. [MaTC/t,

us to throw across our depots, avoiding some days' trou-
blesome and circuitous travelling. Accompanied by Mr.
Loney, and a sledge crew of six, with four days' provi-
sion, and the Cape York dogs, we started this morning
about eight A.M., under the " Blanche" banner " Bright
eyes for brave hearts." The bright eyes prevailed :
temperature 5, wind in our teeth ! We reached the
entrance of this creek about noon, where we lunched,
and I ascended the peninsula, to make sure which of two
openings I would select. The south-eastern appearing
to offer greater advantages, I decided on it. As we ad-
vanced, the deep ravines and steep beetling cliffs seemed
to invite a more distant lead of inlet easterly. The wind
was now not only sharp, but strong from the south-east,
rendering it difficult, over polished ice, denuded by the
wind at every swell, from keeping our feet or making
progress. This was more particularly experienced under
the glacier of Mount Blanche, and its high cape within,
which reminded me of the gales off Cape Sicie of old
(do they blow since the Peace ?), and this appellation I
bestowed upon it. It resulted clearly from the configu-
ration of the land, as the breeze altogether ceased as we
passed into the depth beyond. Recent deer-marks,* or
those of musk-oxen, were noticed on the snow patches of
the peninsula, but side by side, as if four animals had
walked abreast. But these snow indentations are so very
deceptive, that I do not place great reliance on them :
one head is worth a thousand feet. Our journey ended

* They were not deer-marks, and the late appearances in this coun-
try induce me to think that this form is frequently produced by snow-
drift.

1853.]

PARHELIA.

227

about fcmr P.M., at the further (south-east) end of the
creek ; but the valleys evidently connected, north as well
as south, with the other interior openings, particularly
towards Hungry Island. During the time the men were
occupied in pitching the tent and preparing supper, etc.,
I strolled up the mountain until I almost " found my-
self" on a commanding eminence, about eight hundred
feet above the level. A cursory glance around satisfied
me that all my anticipations, either of advance or retreat
by any of these ravines, must be entirely quashed. Still,
as several heights easterly might serve to tie the work of
this season (in prospect), I determined on the morrow to
make an inland excursion, and place a beacon where any
eminence to the north-east offered, likely to afford such a
desirable connection.

The fine drift-snow blown off Cape Sicie, and conti-
nuing suspended about that level, produced some very
beautiful parhelia, dividing the arc contained between
the zenith and horizon into three spaces, and forming
four illuminated spots, the prismatic colours varying mo-

Q 2

228 INLAND EXCURSION. [March,

mentarily in intensity. The distance we had travelled on
ice was estimated at ten miles : I notice by the plan
that it was fourteen.

March 26. Temperature 7. Our night in the
tent, being the first of the season, notwithstanding the
temperature did not fall below 7, and calm, was much
complained of by all; and when a bright morning af-
forded hopes of comfortable exercise at this temperature
" over the hills and far away," it was unfortunately ac-
companied by a troublesome fresh breeze from south-
east. It is not to be understood that temperature here
is concerned, because 10 is the approved degree for
travelling is pleasant, to our feelings balmy ; but a cut-
ting south-east wind, charged with fine drift, on the
mountain-top, breathing heavily, is no pleasant " barber."
As we surmounted the hill-difficulties we were surprised
to find around us gently undulating surfaces, at times so
perplexing in the distance as to confuse the senses, and
cause one to deem them floe (or what would be level
sea). Frequently did I observe, " Well, there at least is
good floe to travel on ;" but very shortly this vision was
dispelled by the intrusion of some headland presenting a
very much lower level. Upwards of four hours we con-
tinued to advance to the north-east, gradually ascending
in the hope of catching some glimpse of the North Sea.
Glimpses of the horizon I certainly obtained at times,
through long lines of distant ravines ; but the northern
mountains, added to the great haze, put an end to all
hopes of any proximity to the northern water. Select-
ing therefore the nearest eminence, with regard also to
building materials, a conspicuous cairn was constructed,

1853.]

RIG OF SLEDGES.

229

seven feet high by nine feet in diameter at base, and of
such substantial stones as will last more than a season.
My own impression was that I saw some point or island
through the valley. Time did not admit of further pro-
gress, and that securing return before dark now became
important. The cairn which we had constructed afforded
some little shelter from the cutting breeze, and under
this we lunched. Cold meat, of course, and a cutting
cold atmosphere, for the temperature had fallen, and
our men were feeling it aloud. Between the snow-dust
clouds I could now and then distinguish certain objects,
which satisfied rue that I had reached the hill which I
had contemplated from the Observatory. Our packing
up, and forward, or return movement, was rapid; so
much so, that when I found myself at the tent, I re-
solved on seeking a more convenient shelter for the night.

We therefore packed up, and started under canvas. Our
craft was rigged in the most approved Sooloo pirate
style : sheer masts stepped into a specially fitted batten,
forming an isosceles triangle, with the means of support

230 OLD WAVY ICE. [March,

by shrouds from its extremity, greater by two feet than
the width of the sledge, which had also been increased
for carrying the ice-boat, and our tent bottom was now
formed into a well made sail. We were therefore " ship-
shape," and might easily be mistaken for a gig under
her customary lug ; or, in case of very reduced canvas, it
could readily, by elongating the yard, constructed of one
bamboo and one tough mahogany flag-staff, be converted
into a latteen (in the line of holes from tack to yard-arm).

I have before alluded to the floe we came over, head
to wind. Our progress now was somewhat swifter ; but
of tin's very uneven and extraordinary floe I would now
speak. Whence arises this wavy, glassy ice, undulating
at such a very sharp pitch, viz. about two feet rise from
the level hollow to the vertex or crown of the succeeding
arch, or on a chord of thirty-two feet, about two feet
difference of level ?

The age of this ice and it pervaded all the portion
subject to this windy part of the strait appeared great.
The only rational cause to which I could assign its for-
mation was the channelling by summer thaws and the
forcing the water thus produced by the prevailing gusts
over the irregular ridges, on which the sun did not act :
this is the more probable, inasmuch as some of the in-
tervening spaces, covered by the snow, presented smooth,
clear blue, level ice, in long spaces, evidently where the
water had been quiescent, whereas all these abrupt swells
were composed of grey ice, rough, and abounding in
air-cells of the size of hemp-seed or peas. As I before
noticed, within and without this strait it was not met
with ; there the ordinary level snow-clad floe prevailed.

1853.]

UPSETTING OF THE SLEDGE.

231

We left with a gentle breeze, under all sail, going at
a very pleasant trot beside the sledge, until we came
upon this rough sea. The velocity of the sledge, caused
by the sudden increase of wind under Cape Sicie, trip-
ped all hands up and dragged them astern, face down-
wards. I was on the sledge, and dropped myself in time
to avoid the conseqiieuces of the capsize which one of
these waves caused. We escaped with one damaged
spar ; replaced it, and moved forward more cautiously.
This time our engine ran away ; again all hands let go.
I was perched, for ballast, on the weather-quarter, across
which a long gun-case, three feet six inches, was lashed ;
but, as if my neck was destined to be continually in
jeopardy, I experienced a gentle summerset, driven at a
radius of four feet, with sufficient impetus to derange it ;

however, I escaped with slight damage, and the sledge
upsetting on a lee shore, enabled our crew to regain it.
We now reduced our sail to a latteen until we cleared
this frozen ocean, and eventually pitched our tent for
the night on a fine gravel beach. This I well know, by
experience, to be bad ; but as the majority seemed to
think they had bettered themselves, I was determined to
let them learn, and not have to thank me for my inter-

232 DEFECTIVE COOKING APPARATUS. [March,

posed authority. Experientia docet, when men can be
made to understand it ; however, stone will, like metal,
take a lower temperature than snow, and will of course
abstract heat in a similar proportion. Each complained
of greater cold. I was silent; some smiled, few slept,
but all were very glad when chocolate was ready, and it
required no second call to rouse the slumberers. Dry
gravel, under summer sun, is however very warm, and
to be then preferred.

Striking our tent, we now moved on for the ship, but
I soon found that such antics do not suit my present
constitution, and that severe spasms of my right leg
compelled me to use a compress. We reached the ship
at eleven A.M. on the 27th.

On this short excursion we fortunately discovered the
inadequacy of our cooking-lamps either for stearine or
spirits-of-wine. Instead of brazing, they had been simply
soldered, and the first time the spirit was used, the sup-
ply-tube fell off, the spirit (the entire day's allowance)
was lost, and the tent endangered ; and yet these things
are put into the hands of the proverbially " careless and
inexperienced seamen !" What mechanic could dream of
burning stearine or alcohol in soldered vessels ! even the
nozzles of the tea-kettles were so secured ! Doubtless
the Government paid very handsomely for these ineffi-
cient claptraps, but our blacksmith had enough to do to
keep them in repair ; indeed we were lucky to obtain
him, for the steam department did not aid us in such
matters, beyond helping the blacksmith in tin-work and
at the bellows. These matters at first sight do not oc-
cur to the uninitiated, but they are pregnant with danger,

1853.] OIL AND FAT LAMPS. 233

as well as inconvenience. Let us suppose that we had
started with spirits only, as intended ; but in this case we
had a small supply of stearine.

First act : spirit-lamp defective feeding-pipe falls off
(soldered to the side and bottom, instead of top). The
alcohol flowing round and below took fire, and de-
stroyed the lamp for use. If I had not been present
and made a substitute, all the fuel would have been ex-
pended. But let us imagine that the tent did take fire,
what would be the condition of the party ? First, loss
of shelter, and, from the attempt to extinguish the fire,
inevitable frost-bites ; the result, loss of members bitten,
or life ! But there are other miseries ; without fuel,
neither water, tea, nor chocolate to drink, could have
been procured ; and thirst at this season, particularly at
the commencement, is intensely felt; but had such an
accident occurred at the outward limit of a journey, the
result is fearful to contemplate ! What then, I may ask,
would be the chances in this region for our missing
countrymen, if they escaped from their vessels ? Fuel,
even in savage life, is requisite.

Truly these preparatory journeys are valuable ; they
point out our wants, and direct us to supply the defi-
ciencies. Already each Government stearine-lamp has
been replaced by our own ship-made, and a composition
formed with two parts of whale oil and one stearine, cast
into plates, with wicks included to fit them, supersedes
the lamp, so that lighting the fire is simply lighting the
candle of some eight inches' diameter. Some for my
own sledge were formed from bees-wax and oil. The
spirit-lamp for my own sledge was superseded by a cop-

234 RETURN OF DEPOT SLEDGES.

per vessel, hammered out of the solid, with six lips for
wicks, affording the facility of adding oil, or walrus, bear,
or bacon fat. These two light and simple articles are
available for any purpose. Our copper vessels have been
riveted and brazed, but the kitchen itself, the outer
casing of tinned iron, is already asunder ! How many
years have they been warranted to last ? Gone before
one season ! Very stringent orders will be given to pre-
serve their remains for future service. The test which
I would prescribe for all such articles, in copper (to be
tinned after), would be boiling oil : if they stood this they
might be received, not otherwise.

Our appearance, short as our absence had been,
brought officers and crew out to help us : to that com-
fort we were anxious to reach, for our cruise had some-
what shaken me, and the constant talking of cold which
the men experienced, made me far from comfortable.

March 29. Our anxiety for the return of our party
kept me very often on the hill, and today, turning my
telescope towards the outer points, where I intended to
place some beacons, I noticed dark objects in motion :
ducks they could not be, but, deceitful as the atmo-
sphere is on the ice, I was soon able to discover that they
were the heads of our sledge crews, rounding the spit
of ice off the outer island, when they all, strange to my
mind, pitched their tents on the spit. I was not long in
sweeping the island crest and discerning that this mo-
tion was connected with parties cairn-building ; and after
constructing two, they rejoined the tents and advanced.
Affording them time to make their march, I took the di-
rect path to cut them off, and joined them about two

1853.] REPORT OF DEPOT DIVISION. 235

miles from the ship. I was glad to find them all in
health, high spirits, and free from casualty ; but I could
read clearly that this trip and return had proved of great
importance, and rejoiced I was that they were prevented
from proceeding until they had refreshed themselves and
remedied deficiencies discovered on this first brush. It
had proved a work of labour, but the difficulty was now
diminished.

In condensing the able report of Commander Richards
I shall use his own words, omitting only passages of de-
tail, which will probably be printed in another form.
The date of starting, etc., has been already stated as the.
22nd of March, at seven A.M., temperature 22; the
sledges being commanded as under :

The 'Sir Edward' "Loyal au Mort" . . Comm* Richards.

The ' John Barrow ' Lieutenant Osborn.

The 'Reliance' Lieutenant May .

The ' Enterprise ' Mr, Allard.

The ' Sir F. Baring' Mr. Ricards.

The ' Perseverance' Mr. Pym, Mate.

57 men and officers; depot, 1200 rations; provision, 570.

" The wind fresh from south-east, and weather hazy,
we started under sail, steering for Spit Island west ex-
treme, and accompanied for a short distance by the Cap-
tain, officers, and remainder of the crew. At ten A.M.
we got amongst hummocky ice, and the sledge ' Enter-
prise' capsized with the boat, damaging herself so much
that she was sent back to the ship to refit.

" About two we encamped on the low western extreme
of Spit Island, to await the return of the ' Enterprise.'
At five the ' Enterprise' rejoined with her boat : George

230 THE QUEEN'S CAUSEWAY. [March,

Youngson, of the ' Perseverance/ fainted at his sledge,
but a little brandy, and his dinner, recovered him.

" March 23. Calm and foggy, -f 8. Started at seven
A.M., and came almost immediately to heavy ice, which
we dragged through all day, with severe labour to the
men and damage to the sledges. It was a perfect frozen
pack, which we were obliged to cut our way through
with pickaxes. The snow-drift very deep between the
hummocks, which we found of use in making the road
with. Two walrus, an old and young one, were wounded
today in a hole of water, but were not captured. En-
camped at 4.30, and patched up the ' Enterprise/ which
sledge had suffered severely among the hummocks.

"March 24. Light wind westerly, with thick weather.
We started at 6.45; at 7.35 came to better ice ; at 11
lunched : nothing important.

"March 25. At seven A.M. started : wind south-east,
fresh, and hazy. Cut a road through a confused heavy
pack with picks and shovels, and after five hours' labour
succeeded in accomplishing little more than a mile, when
we reached an old floe, halting at noon for luncheon. A
bamboo and flag was left to mark this, ' The Queen's
Causeway.' Encamped at 4.30. Wind strong from the
south-east during the night, and the tent very cold.

"March 26. Wind south-east, strong ; weather thick.
Started at eight A.M.; scarcely able to see thirty yards
ahead for snow-drift. Many slight frost-bites* occurred
amongst the men. At 11.30 halted for luncheon; al-
though close to it, no land in sight ; moved forward, be-
ing too cold for undue delay. At 11.50 saw Cape Lady
* Frost-bites temporary, removed by snow or warm hand.

1853.] REPAIR DAMAGES. 237

Franklin close to vis. Ice very uneven in-shore, and the
stupendous hummocks which line the coast, and which
must have been pressed up by a succession of north-
west gales, are between seventy and eighty feet high :
I should say that they have stood the thaw of many
summers, and seem little aifected thereby. The old floe
which we picked up yesterday did not carry us to the
south shore, but a narrow belt of new ice intervenes.
At 12.30 we landed on the south shore of the Queen's
Channel, and planted the Union. The depot was placed
on a sloping point, about eighty feet above the sea-level,
and one mile from the summit of Cape Lady Franklin,
east of it. The point is projecting, and is computed to
be the nearest land to Spit Island ; the heaviest hum-
mocks of ice are grounded on it. The depot consists of
the boat turned bottom up, with the other stores placed
under it. Over the boat a flag was hoisted, and the cus-
tomary record in a tin cylinder left."

The vegetation on that shore appeared to be more
abundant as well as forward ; traces of deer noticed ;
formation similar. Ascended the higher land; noticed
eight or ten deer feeding in pairs in the valley westward :
two passed within fifty yards, the doe and fawn. The
return to the ship is but the outward journey reversed.
Canvas boots approved, as well as blanket wrappers.
Carpet boots decried for travelling, causing sore heels to
those who used them. Commander Richards is satisfied
with the allowance of provision, but objects reasonably
to mixture of penimican and preserved meats.

The sledges have been much strained by rough ice :
that belonging to Commander Richards so much shaken

238 PECULIAR TEMPERATURES OF MARCH. [March,

that it must be replaced. One missing, either buried in
the floe, or in the snow on shore : the latter might be
recovered. But the peculiarity of losing anything on
the floe may be readily understood by the fact, that a
snow-house and block for thermometers, constructed on
the floe level in October last, are now just even with
the surface snow, or the level of that of the snow-bank
of our port-beam, fourteen feet above the solid ice. As
the season advances, and the sea increases in tempera-
ture by the great amount of thaw beneath, the ice is re-
moved from the loiver surface, water percolates, and the
upper mass freezes; and, as a matter of course, things
which occupied the upper icy surface in October, must
be sought for beneath it in May. Those which float may
be recovered, but it may be possible that a pile of bottles,
owner unknown, may yet be extricated at the mouth of
Wellington Channel. In November I heard rumours of
such losses, and directed all tins and bottles to be re-
moved to the land, that no such accident should mislead
parties as to our fate. The hills have not been, so to
speak, snow-clad during this season: any strong breeze
denudes them, and the earth is in places ever visible.

I cannot take leave of the month of March without
some remarks on its peculiar character. Of the early
part of the mouth, or first hah , I have already made my
extracts. From the 16th, the + sign prevails as high
as 24, the minimum being 18. This, by referring to
the comparative table of the two ' Hecla,' ' Enterprise,'
and ' Resolute' voyages, is contrary to precedent, no plus
sign occurring at all ! The following comparisons will
show the great peculiarity in this month :

1853.]

COMPARISON OP TEMPERATURES.

239

Maximum.

Minimum.

Mean.

Assistance (1853)

+ 24

55-5

-17-75

Hecla (1820) . .

+ 6

40-0

18-10

Enterprise (1849)

+ 8

51-0

22-80

Hecla . . . .

-9

47-5

28-37

Resolute .

-8

44-5

25-70

We have experienced the month nearly divided be-
tween intense cold and (to us) intense heat ! Between
the 16th and 26th we experienced a change to a mean
on ten consecutive days of -|-5'593 , and on seven con-
secutive days +10'627, the maximum being +24, mi-
nimum 17.

I take leave of it, and bequeath it as a legacy to the
speculative theorist at home.

240

CHAPTER X.

The Caim. Anticipations. South-west Expedition. Tidal Motions.
Return of Mr. Loney.- Dog Killed. Letters from Pullen.
North-east Expedition. Tent Arrangements. A Cold Bath. The
First Depot. A Wolf. Princess Royal Island. Tidal Rents.
Snow Blindness. Mount Parker. A Whale. Hamilton Depot.

April 1. THE summer heat has already informed us
that our pile must be rebuilt, and that snow or frozen
stones are not fit materials for any weighty structures.
The basement, constructed of substantial stones, is firm,
but the sun acting on the surface has thawed all the
loose ice-bound matter, and now compels us to recon-
struct the upper part, which has fallen : a practical les-
son on ah 1 cairns built before summer.

On the 2nd the weather proved fine ; a party was de-
spatched to rebuild Mount Britannia beacon afresh, and
to look around on the ice. This beacon was surmount-
ed by a blue and yellow flag, and adorned with many
preserved meat tins, flattened out, and hung in such po-
sitions (with their tinned surfaces outwards) as might
afford a glimmering ray, from these heliotropes, to the
southern travellers.

A specimen of the stone brought to me today from Spit

1853.] ANTICIPATION OF EVENTS. 241

Island appears to be a bituminous shale. It might serve,
with coal, to keep up the heat, but I do not find it to be
capable of burning or maintaining heat, unless so aided.

When I look back to my order, issued in February,
" that the sledges were to be ready to depart on the 1 5th
March," I confess that I am somewhat astonished ; pos-
sibly other matters before this cruise is ended (?) may be
as satisfactory ! But with the summer this habit seems
to decline. To my own mind I think I could have found
very plausible reasons for anticipating the preceding
events ; but beyond my conception of the direction of
my intended route to the north-east, I have nothing now
beyond guess to help me through the summer. Hope
I will, nevertheless : that can never be denied. Indeed,
without some preconceived opinion on such a service,
how am I to frame my orders ? Surely not on the snail
principle : " nothing risk, nothing gain."

I notice the following amongst my rough notes :
" I like calculations ahead, and shall divert myself with
another pet theory. I have noted generally that a warm
or forward spring in cold climates, even in England, is
seldom checked by any return of cold. In April, 1852,
we retained a cold spring, and carried it to Greenland, not
experiencing a greater maximum temperature from 1st
May, at and after quitting Stromness, than 50. Summer
we did not experience, 45 being our maximum summer
temperature in August. On the 8th, at noon, the moon
changes ; and about midnight, on the 9th, we may ex-
pect a decided change. If a gale ensues from south-east
we may expect high temperatures, but no travelling. I
shall direct the south-western expedition to be ready to

VOL. I. R

242 DEPARTURE OF SOUTH-WEST DIVISION. [April,

move on the 10th. In arriving at this determination, I
think I am even late. The minimum temperatures gene-
rally occur when the travellers are in their blanket bags,
and the cold is not so much perceived. To have been
present, and watched our changes, might have furnished
food for ridicule.

April 10. This morning, at two A.M., our attention
was intensely on the alert.

At Midnight -21

2 A.M 16

4 14

6 8-5

8 -4

10 2

Noon 5

It had been arranged that Sunday, 10th of April, should
be the starting day. The sledges were laden and in-
spected on Saturday evening. After special prayers on
Sunday, the crew were allowed to sleep until four P.M.
I took an early dinner with the officers, and shortly be-
fore four the sledge banners were presented, and their
commanders and crews severally addressed. An address
was also made to the crew generally, and the entire ban-
ners being displayed, fluttering in a north-west breeze
then springing up, and adding a fresh spur to our eager
hands, we took leave of Richards and his gallant baud
of six sledges and fifty-seven men, gliding forth from
our remaining banners, with feelings which I am unable
to commit to paper. The division comprised the same
sledges as before, Mr. Herbert now taking the ' Suc-
cess' and Mr. Grove pro tern, the ' Enterprise ;' Dr. Lyall
the ' Lady Franklin.'

55

co

1853.] ARRANGEMENTS. 243

Each sledge was stored with forty days' rations for the
number of men (fifty-seven), making the average draught
per man about two hundred pounds. Commander Ri-
chards was the bearer of despatches for the Admiralty,
via Melville Island, as well as others for Captain Kellett,
to be left at the previously ordered rendezvous in 77 N.
and 105 W. The arrangements contemplated the Com-
missariat sledges to aid Commander Richards until he
had reached the meridian of 110, when he would have
forty days remaining, and adequate depots secured for
his return to Cape Lady Franklin, where the whale-boat,
with sufficient provision, was already deposited ; he was
also provided with one of the light ice-boats.

The little fleet, having at this time their masts better
secured, sails reefed, and their Commanders having in
every way gained experience from their former trip, now
sailed away more " ship-shape," and were soon lost to
our view.

One great feat complete, I had now to revert to my
own course. I had heavy difficulties to contend with,
but go I must : I could not leave such an important
trust to any one I had here. The first step was the
completion of my official correspondence for the Admi-
ralty, to be deposited at Cape Becher, where I fully
relied on my emissary being met by one from Com-
mander Pullen, if he himself did not come.

April 11. The weather continuing to hold out the
prospect of moderate temperatures, our mean being
above zero, I determined on despatching two sledges,
under the command of Mr. Loney, aided by Mr. Allard,
to lay out our first north-east depot. This was also in-

244 TIDAL MOTIONS. \April,

tended to feel the way for our boats, which would have
to travel in that direction, as well as to determine the
actual state of the ice in that exposed locality, for I had
my doubts of a permanently frozen sea throughout the
space beyond Exmouth Island, and the region westerly
and northerly.

April 12. On the morning of the 12th of April they
started. About eight A.M. the thermometer ranged on
either side of zero ; on the 13th the temperature fell sud-
denly from 6 to 12 and 19; and at four A.M.
on the 14th to 25, attended by strong breezes from
the westward. This continuing until the 16th, I did not
give them credit for contending against such difficul-
ties, particularly the snow-drift we have experienced . I
certainly expected they would, to use the Arctic expres-
sion, have " bagged," or slept in their tents. These
breezes seem to have a surprising influence on the tides,
and this renders me still more anxious ; for when they
once become active, the sign is infallible, to my compre-
hension, that, like a mob, there must be vacant space
somewhere, from whence they came, and to which they
can return : nothing but open water, northward or west-
ward of this channel, can effect such motions. At one
time I had some suspicion that the tide-gauge was foul,
but it moved too freely, and the customary ice-cracks,
termed bolts-cracking, have of late been more loud and
frequent.

April 17. One week has elapsed : in three days Mr.
Grove will probably furnish me with the gratifying intel-
ligence that the division has safely reached the southern
shore. Climate and winds differ here so widely within

1853.] RETURN OF MR. LONEY. 245

a space of ten miles, that it is quite impossible to calcu-
late on the weather they may experience. They are all
sound men, and well attended, and will, I am satisfied,
do then- duty, especially my own crew.

djjrilld. I cannot sufficiently express my satisfaction
when one of my own followers exhibits a pattern of smart
work. Under all the difficulties I anticipated, I find Mr.
Loney returned, and his work satisfactorily executed, two
days within the time. lie had deposited the cache eight
miles to the north-east of our furthest station of last
year, and had from thence a good view of an island seen
by me (as in nubibus) from Exmouth Island. I then (on
the 28th of August) directed Commander Richards to
look for it from his more advanced stations, but he was
prevented seeing it, owing to thick weather.

The party experienced very severe cold, travelling
head to wind directly against heavy snow-drift, but with-
out a single casualty (my own well-tried sledge crew) ;
snow-blindness and trivial frost-bites (alias cold fingers)
being the only difficulties.

The day after they quitted us, Mr. Loney, accompanied
by Mr. Allard, being somewhat ahead of the sledges
picking the way for the men, encountered a bear steer-
ing direct for them. At first they mistook him for a
dog, and, being unarmed, they reversed their engines, and
dropped upon the sledges, Mr. Bruin trotting up most
fearlessly to attack the party. However, his assurance
cost him his life, but not before he had struck his awful
fore-paw into the fore-shoulder of the leader of our
Cape York dogs, and literally torn it out, rendering it
necessary to put an end to his misery : he was the

246 RETURN OF MR. GROVE. [April,

finest of a most peculiar and very handsome breed, ob-
tained at Cape York. As I had suspected, the water in
the Main-tide Channel, between Pioneer Island and Vil-
lage Point, was open for half a mile, but on their return
was again skimmed over, probably under a 25 tem-
perature. This and one or two other air-holes noticed
will probably break up the moment the sun has a fair
view of them, they are directly in the course of the
strongest tide. One other bear was seen, but he was
too wary to trust himself in such company.

April 20. 'This being the appointed day for the re-
turn of the first sledge from Commander Richards' divi-
sion, shortly after noon the banner of the ' Dauntless'
was seen, and about 1.30 Mr. Grove returned, the bearer
of a letter from Commander Richards, reporting all well,
in high spirits, and informing me that all was going on
smoothly, no casualties, and that they had made good
forty-five miles against these adverse gales, which ranged
from north to north-north-west, with a temperature not
lower than 27, it being then 17 in the tent where
he was writing !

A sledge having been prepared, with ten days' rations,
for the conveyance of the despatches to Cape Becher,
they were entrusted to the charge of Lieutenant Cheyne,
under the ' Victory' banner. This left me about eight
days to complete my arrangements for my examination
to the north-east, unless intelligence by Dr. Lyall, due
on the 2nd of May, should interpose any difficulty. Our
artificers were busily engaged re-manufacturing cooking
gear : indeed, every sledge that returns reports some-
thing amiss. In time we shall be perfect, but it is really

1853.] LETTERS FROM COMMANDER PULLEN. 247

disheartening to start for ninety or a hundred days un-
der such apprehensions ; not as regards myself, but for
those who have already departed.

On the 28th, about 3.30 A.M., Lieutenant Cheyne re-
turned, informing me " that he had brought an ' English
mail.' ' The report surprised me. However, a very few
minutes decided that he had made an egregious mistake:
he had brought one or two letters and newspapers, but
the "despatches," as noted in Commander Pullen's note,
were left behind. Two packages were clearly indicated.
This note of Commander Pullen's puzzled me not a little.
Commander Inglefield had arrived in the ' Isabel,' bring-
ing " despatches and newspapers," copies of which were
also deposited at Cape Phillips.

This unfortunate mistake, at such a moment, worried
me not a little : but considering that Commander Pul-
len must be aware of any material change of orders, and
would indicate it in his sealed note to me, I resolved
that no orders or despatches had arrived. However,
having given Mr. Cheyne fresh instructions to retrace
his steps, and find the despatches on the return of Dr.
Lyall, I commenced my preparations for the march.

I fully intended to proceed on the evening of the 1st
of May, but I was too unwell. Another cause, perhaps,
had also some weight in causing me to delay : I was
very anxious to include in my last report any intelligence
of which Dr. Lyall might be the bearer, and as that offi-
cer was also eventually to join my division, I wished to
confer with him before starting. I fully expected his ar-
rival early on the 2nd ; our preparations were complete
on the 1st.

248 NORTH-EAST EXPEDITION STARTS. [_May,

' Londesborough ' . . 7 men, 2 officers, 40 days' provision.
' Dauntless,' Grove . 7 1 40

' Enterprise,' AUard . 10 1 50
28 men, 1230 rations.

We were also attended by the sledge-boat ' Hamilton/
under the Blanche banner, two Cape York dogs, and
three pups. Our patience being exhausted, at six A.M.
on the 2nd we took our departure from the ship, not in-
aptly termed the " Deserted Village," cleared the Sound,
and before noon found the sun, with a temperature be-
tween + 3 and +6, unpleasantly oppressive.

The ' Hamilton' was at first attached to the three
sledges, but it was subsequently found preferable to at-
tach her solely to the ' Loudesborough,' taking reliefs of
four men from the other two sledges, as circumstances
required.

Several seals were noticed on our journey towards
Village Point, but all too wary to permit any one to get
within shot. Indeed, unless these animals are instanta-
neously killed, they preserve such a convenient distance
to the hole in the ice, that their dying agonies alone
would cause them to slip or wriggle through before
they could be secured. As the snow was deep and soft,
and the day warm, our sledges, cutting deeply into the
snow, made but slow progress. I therefore walked on,
accompanied by Messrs. Grove and Allard, reaching
Village Point about 2.15. Here we found a large sheet
of water,* extending nearly across this narrow strait, and
about one mile in length, in which several very inquisi-

* Today the open water was also noticed, extending from the south
point of the Sound to Spit Island.

1853.] A SLEDGE-MARK. 249

tive seals were playing, and frequently raising their busts
out of water, as if to inquire the cause of our visit.
About 4.30 the sledges reached the low point, when we
encamped for the night, the men much blown and fa-
tigued from the effects of the sun, which already pro-
duced symptoms of snow blindness. It is yet an unex-
plained fact, but we found a broad and deep sledge-mark
in the gravel from the cairn to the point. Part of the
officers and crews of every sledge which had visited this
point last season were present, but no one could recall
to mind any sledge taking such an unusual direction,
and dragged, too, entirely on gravel : most of them had
crossed at right angles ; but the runner width exactly
coincided with that of the sledges used last season, and
therefore I conclude must have belonged to our Expedi-
tion. At our first encampment the temperature at six
P.M. was + 9'5, and the prevailing temperature during
the night was about + 1 5 in the tent, with +10 outside.
About seven A.M. on the 3rd we moved forward; wea-
ther not pleasant, but better for travelling : the tem-
perature at starting was 10. Our object at present be-
ing to make the shortest cut over the space examined
last season, we steered for the depot point, passed near
to the Avrecks of dog and bear, left by Mr. Loney, of
which the rib-timbers were noticed, probably picked by
wolves and foxes ; and about six, finding that the in-
shore course would lead us through very rough ice, we
pitched for the evening at the south end of Coffin Island,
which afforded us most convenient shelter from the then
prevailing wind ; the temperature had fallen to 5, and
at midnight reached zero. Here we constructed a cairn,

250 TENT ARRANGEMENTS. [May,

cooked pemmican and tea, and withdrew into our shells.
I shall merely notice one clay's routine, to mark our mode
of life, or change from that of last season. The pemmi-
can is now so well known that it hardly requires descrip-
tion : however, we had four varieties : the first made with
currants, herbs, etc., pounded beef, and suet; another
sugared ; another plain ; another herbs ; marked C. H. S.
blank. Of this compound three-quarters of a pound was
found sufficient for each person, to which was added one
ounce of maccaroni, or four ounces of potatoes, onion
powder, sage, etc., ad lib. Of this food I was not fond,
and one ounce was enough for me ; latterly I avoided it
entirely. Our tea was of the best quality. Sleep we had
to provide. The bed, although already described, I shall
repeat, is a bag constructed of thick grey felt ; this bag
is about seven feet in length and three feet in width, al-
lowing a man, when in, to double the top over his face,
like a long envelope, and endeavour to suffocate himself
by his own heat, until that becomes inconvenient, when
he seeks a breathing hole. This bag, I had almost for-
gotten to remark, is covered with a prepared casing of
brown holland, supposed to retain the air. It is not easy
to enter or emerge from this bag, especially if the alarm
of bear, fire, or water, should be given, as the aggregate
living mass is covered by another heavy blanket, made
fast to the tent-poles at the officer's end of the tent, to
keep him down until the rest escape : he is also placed
at the weather or extreme end, to keep the cold out, as
the place d'honneur; and to shield him, a further strip
of this brown holland, furnished with pockets, to place
small articles in safety, affords further protection from

1853.] DAILY ROUTINE. 251

the piercing wind. But to the main protection between
the snow, ice, or cold gravel, and the body : the " fea-
thers" (Macadamized bits) being removed, a Mackintosh
cloth covers the flooring ; on this is spread a blanket of
buffalo skin, but this also was meagre ; frequent wet
caused the hair to take leave and enter the cookery, and
eventually, until indignantly turned out, it was reduced
nearly to spotted parchment !

It is almost needless to excite the sympathies of those
who can soundly sleep on the roughest gravel, or piles
of shot, and whose bony projections are calculated to
withstand any inconvenience ; but, pour moi-meme, I am
getting tender, and I feel the difference between true
and fictitious feathers ; and the cold, which at first chose
to make my dorsal column its immediate point of attack,
was very sensibly felt; but layers of non-conductors
eventually remedied this : habit too (like the eels) inures
one to suffering. Tent discipline continued . at a cer-
tain hour the cook is called : I never knew a cook call
himself. Why should they sleep more than any other
member ? seeing that they have the same time allowed,
and change daily : probably the last cook being the very
foremost to call his successor to a sense of his duty.
Our fires were candles, therefore soon lighted ; but the
cook had to procure his snow and thaw it, before he ob-
tained water. When this could be coaxed to boil, the
chocolate was put in, and the word passed, " Cocoa
ready." Heads emerged, pannikins produced (tin-pots
holding just measure one pint and more each person),
biscuit is served out, and breakfast soon despatched ; no
waiters to pay, no chambermaids. The luncheon-grog is

25.2 A COLD BATH.

mixed with the water from remaining fire (now available):
luncheon put into the " scran-bag," and " Down hoiise
break up!" Such, reader, is the delightful process of the
Polar travelling gentlemen, to be understood in future
as " started" = after breakfast, etc.; " pitched "= or
erected tents, cooked, and went to sleep.

On the 4th of May, at seven, moved forward for Star
Bluff, but heavy packed ice fragments of broken floe,
cemented together by frost (only to be compared with
the roughest rocky travelling over disrupted quarries)
rendered our progress difficult with our heavily laden
sledges; we were very glad to "pitch" five miles short
of it,

About eight A.M. on the 5th we moved forward, and
on closing Star Bluff we found the ice becoming very
tender. I thought that the off-shore ice would prove
firmer : it was so, but I did not go sufficiently far, and
in the attempt to make a short cut, to avoid one of the
most apparently dangerous spots, the leading sledge
broke in. Here the trusty 'Hamilton' did good ser-
vice ; she was soon floating beside the sledge, and safely
were the goods transferred. The instruments were safe,
and I was on the point, carrying the theodolite-legs in
my hand, of seeking a secure spot, when I found myself
suddenly immersed in a bath, by no means acceptable :
it might have been an intentional interpretation of C. B.,
but it was beyond joke. The current beneath the ice
ran very strong. I had the chronometer on me, and,
unless I was soon rescued, I should be missing under
the ice ! At present the legs of the instrument across
the hole sustained me just enough out of water to pre-

1853.] REACH THE FIRST DEPOT. 253

vent wetting the chronometer. A track-belt thrown to
me, and connected with others, for it was dangerous to
approach me, soon dragged me out like a walrus, and
ah 1 was right. The present condition and safety of our
wardrobes being a matter of considerable doubt, Mr.
Grove most kindly clothed my lower extremities until
matters were accommodated. Our only loss was ninety-
six pounds of bread and some pretty considerable damp-
nesses. The gutta-percha cases for bread proved too
brittle, and split ; they are certainly not adapted to the
rough handling of seamen: no man who cannot under-
stand (and feel for) them should be entrusted with, or
can derive advantage from them ; they will not stand
rough usage. The bread thus damaged was buried, and
a cairn erected to mark the spot, so that, if distress re-
quired us to fall back upon it, we knew where it was de-
posited. But many of my readers would doubtless like
to know how I relished this cold bath. I will describe
it in a few words. The unexpected immersion was not
pleasant : when in for it, I cared little about it, but the
tide and safety of chronometer did not allow me to enjoy
it : the cold was not felt, but a glowing sensation pre-
vailed until I recovered my customary dry clothing.
Moving forward towards Star Bluff, we pitched about
seven that evening off it ; but the ice proved too heavy
to allow us to pass to the land.

On the Gth we pushed forward for the depot esta-
blished by Mr. Loney, but failed in reaching it by two
miles ; but on the 7th we succeeded in time to make
it a rating position for the chronometers. Here we ob-
tained the latitude and other important observations ;

254 VISITED BY A WOLF. [May,

made good our deficiency of provisions from the depot ;
anp last, not least, rested six hours. At this station a
wolf came to inquire the cause of our visit: it was
joined by the dogs of our party, and did not quarrel ;
but the animal was so unlike a wolf, and, supposing our
Cape York dogs a little blanched, the extraordinary simi-
larity of the remaining black lines so much interested
me, that I issued orders for his " tabu," under a feeling
that it might possibly be one of Sir John Franklin's
dogs, and by petting would conduct us to some clue as
to his people, or, even failing in that, to some tribe of
wandering Esquimaux (Huskies is the only term used
here). The bears had visited the cache, torn down the
blue flag, but without disturbing the staff or the provi-
sion ! Funny fellows they are ! Why have tney such
an antipathy to blue ? Yellow is safe ; possibly they
fear pratique, as many bears did not many years since ;
but to have climbed this loose gravel pile, stood on hind
legs, torn down the flag, and rent it as they did, is mar-
vellous. Their general weight is about seven hundred-
weight ; my own weight about one and a half, and yet I
found it difficult to retain my footing on such a moving
pile : they must be fairies ! About eight P.M. we pitched
two miles short of a low gravel point, having in sight
the new island seen from Exmouth Island on the 28th of
August last; distance six miles, the temperature +4.

May 8. On the 8th the division moved forward
about seven, but about eleven I remained behind with
the ' Hamilton,' Mr. Loney, and two hands, to secure
the latitude and other observations on a low intervening
gravel island. This island is composed, as all here are,

1853.] LAND ON PRINCESS ROYAL ISLAND. 255

of rubbly Macadamized maguesian limestone, abound-
ing in fragments of fossils, scattered in every direction,
principally Terebratulse, Pectens, and Madreporites. At
this position the value of our sledge-boat 'Hamilton' was
practically evinced : our party had gained a start of at
least two miles ; they were under canvas ; we made sail,
and with two men, two dogs, Mr. Loney, and self steady-
ing the boat, overtook the sledges with ease, at least two
miles ahead, in the lapse of two hours. About six we
pitched on the northern spit of the island, ascended its
high-turreted peak, built a conspicuous cairn, and, this
being the first important discovery and keystone of our
operations this season, hoisted the Union and took pos-
session, under the customary forms, of Princess Royal Is-
land. At the base, with a temperature of +6, the cold
was felt sensibly ; but as we reached the summit it be-
came softer, and eventually comfortable. Those who deal
with cold metal instruments, pencil and paper, appre-
ciate these changes very sensibly : I consider 1 in the
value of wind here to be equal to 10 on the previous
temperature.

This was Sunday. Our motions by day interfering
much with our present mode of travelling, the customary
observance was deferred until evening, when all hands
were collected in my tent. These are matters of disci-
pline. It is not my intention to inform my readers, or
rather to trouble them, with the question of how good
or bad we were, but possibly we may be found to Him
who knows our secrets, quite as good as " the tinkling
bells." In few words, and to the point, I merely observe,
Let the reader peruse the incidents of this Work, and

256 A WOLF HOVERING.

ask, " Had we not cause to think deeply, and exclaim,
' If the Lord himself had not been on our side' ? "

May 9. (Temp. 2.) On the low northern point of this
island we deposited our surplus provision, leather boots,
and every useless article of hamper which had been un-
fortunately, but stealthily, crammed upon the sledges,
giving the crews some additional hundreds of weight not
estimated in the two hundred pounds per man. My
previous arrangement had contemplated the return of
Mr. Allard from the depot ; but, having re-victualled his
sledge there, we again moved forward, taking him five
days further. I think I hear my good old friend, Sir
W. N., exclaiming, " That confounded racehorse spirit !"
etc. Well, be it so -. the thought of what one once
could do often impels a man forward : I thought my
strength would enable me to return without asking any
one to drag me, and in this I was not deceived. Our
new friend, the wolf, still hung upon our rear, but not
disposed to make friends, or quarrel, with our Cape York
dogs : its habits are certainly very peculiar ; it cares not
for us, and frequently approached so near that it might
have been shot ; but it is tabu. Sailors are deemed super-
stitious, granted ; but let reason have its course. The
canine species has not uufrequently put the biped to the
blush. What sensible apology is there for shooting this,
at present, harmless beast ? and yet, by good fortune, or
providentially, if but a dog escape to savage life (and
those we have are but wolves), it may yet lead us to the
last resting-place of his beloved master ! Why then com-
mit a mere wanton act of cruelty ? The Queen orders
he shall live !

1853.] TIDAL RENTS TROUBLESOME. 257

Our course is now directed to a low point to the east-
south-east, surmounted by a very remarkable mount,
about a mile and a half within. The included segment
between this and the outer point of Princess Royal
Island forms a deep bay, evidently much cut up by nu-
merous streamlets, flowing from extensive lakes, convert-
ing the entire space, if thawed, into one immense series
of flats, mostly even with the surface : there is there-
fore at present no chance of sinking into this " mud flat
floe." Upon this line of mischief, as all shoal lines are
(" dangers" hydrographic), the pack ice was of course
compelled to observe " the rules," and within it we ob-
tained smooth, but, when cracked, slightly impeded, tra-
velling. But to make this matter clear, and to mark
this species of travel, it is requisite to bear in mind, that
notwithstanding the incomprehensible masses of floe-ice
which cover the Polar Sea as with a mere tablecloth of
varied fabric, coarse or fine, that the great laws of na-
ture, the tidal influences, cannot be arrested. The huge
floe must obey the law of floatation : it rises, cracks, falls
possibly below, or is supported by some interposed sub-
stance above, the so-called land-floe, which refuses to
move (possibly in our case because it cannot) ; is frozen
to the bottom : a gap is left, filled in with light snow,
and one very fatal to sledge runners, and uncomfortable
to those who have no serviceable legs left, by finding the
hips nearly engulfed in these cracks, chasms more pro-
perly. It is therefore advisable to keep inside these
traps, and rather observe the parallel contour of the
land, or where the ice is solid, than to contend for short
cuts over hummocky ice or frozen pack. I have thus

VOL. i. s

258 QUIT PRINCESS ROYAL ISLAND. [May,

far travelled out of my road to explain fully the nature
of the sealed hydrography of these regions, as well as to
explain that Nature will exert her undoubted rights at
the Equator as well as the Pole itself! On the power
philosophical I need not dilate : the laws are too simple.
I have stated its winter nuisance ; add to this, for sum-
mer, the difficulty of landing, by reason of interposed
bands of water near the beach, where the sun acts on
the dark-coloured mass of the hills and beach, causing
the water to flow freely between, long before the table-
cloth can be pierced.

At our noon luncheon position we erected a snow py-
ramid, and, as it was not convenient to have it disturbed
by bears, left a composing dose for Bruin, in the event
of his revisiting this spot, his tracks being numerous
just here : it is to be hoped the wolf will not taste it !
Thinking of Ursus maritimus and the original astrono-
mers, who placed Ursa Major and her cub at the Pole ?
It argues a knowledge that we cannot understand : it is
the only true representative of the Polar bear ! Is this
"the sweet little cherub"? As one of our family mottoes
is " Bear and For-Bear," I shall be silent.

PRINCESS ROYAL ISLAND : N.N.W. FIVE MILES.

May 10. Morning fine, but hazy; temperature 6.
Wolf hovering ; men complaining of sore eyes, resulting

1853.] REMEDIES FOR SNOW BLINDNESS. 259

from the sun's glare : doctor's shop opened, and vari-
ous remedies applied vinum opii, glycerine, tea-leaves,
tobacco, etc. Each seemed to have his favourite remedy,
and as there was no really bad case, it was as well to
let them have their run of humour : for my own part, I
was satisfied that a more lenient mixture of the vinum
opii was preferable. Example does wonders : I esta-
blished the daily wash of ten drops in a tablespoonful
of water, and I never had to apply the raw material
again. As my duties with sextant and theodolite brought
me into more direct collision with the sun, and I did not
suffer, my men soon found that the Captain's remedy
was perhaps the best; and gratefully they afterwards ac-
cepted the wash as I passed it round, giving each man
his strip of lint or bandage wherewith to bathe his eyes
before he entered upon his delicious dreams of deer,
musk-ox, hares, or ptarmigan, of which he was, as it re-
sulted, never to taste !

May 1 1 . About eight we moved forward ; heavy
work, warm sun, and pack-ice. As we gradually neared
what we imagined to be the smooth floe, we at length
perceived that we had ascended considerably above the
sea-level, and after moving forward about five hundred
yards, crossed over the low point which we had seen from
Princess Royal Island ; and thus, the labour being over,
very much to the satisfaction of our crew, having done a
heavy day's work, " pitched" before noon. The ascent
of our hill, having no weights and a chance of game, was
mere amusement : but our delay here was important.
The view from the summit enabled me to save hours,
nay days, of conjecture ; it furnished the groundwork

s 2

260 REACH MOUNT PARKER. \_May,

of weeks' labour, carried out by the knowledge of what
must be the realization of the then radius of vision : it
was one of those bright days which are to be made the
most of in these regions, of which I was not slow in
taking advantage. In compliment to one of my most
respected friends, the senior naval Lord of the Admi-
ralty, I named this Mount Parker. The few hours' de-
lay here repaid me abundantly : I had laid in a stock of
matter to guide me strictly for many clays. I was ena-
bled, by our astronomical data, to impress the indelible
seal of truth on ah 1 I had done, and by that truth to be
aided in fixing beyond dispute, so long as sun and lati-
tude continued available, many other important positions
from which I might merely see this ! So far the sur-
veyor is strong in his position : he can combat opposi-
tion, simply by facts and observations, which the most
talented can but verify ; and eventually can afford to
make a long stride and overtake his poor friend the tor-
toise or hare, driven perhaps by impulse, but certainly
not by sagacity, to despise the truths of science, to the
accomplishment of improved, and not well-searched dis-
tance. The delay here enabled me also to put in prac-
tice what I had some days contemplated, viz. changing
the travelling hours from day to night : that is, the men
enjoyed their repose or sleep during the warm tempe-
rature by day, when exposure to the sun was oppressive
and withering, commencing work at six P.M., lunching
at midnight, and ending at six A.M. ; the sun however,
although at very low altitudes, being always visible, if
not veiled by clouds, etc.

On our descent from Mount Parker we noticed the

1853.] WHALE DISCOVERED ON THE MOUNT.

deposits of hare, ptarmigan, and fox were abundant ; and
following a track which I supposed might lead to their
haunt, most unexpectedly stumbled upon some bones of
great size projecting from the earth, which, on closer ex-
amination, proved to be the head and probably the en-
tire skeleton of a very large whale, imbedded at a height
of not less than five hundred feet above the sea. I en-
deavoured to detach one of the ribs, but it was too
firmly frozen to yield to our picks ; a portion of the
head-bone was broken away and preserved.* About
eight in the evening we moved forward, steering for a
long, low spit, bearing east-south-east, barely visible from
Mount Parker, owing to the difficulty of distinguishing
any slight rise of snow-covered land ; the weather also
now inclined to sleet, which to us is quite as annoying
as fog.

May 12. Shortly after midnight we crossed many
tracks of bears, and about five o'clock Ursa Major and
Minor made their appearance, trotting down very lei-
surely, mistaking us, no doubt, for three fine walrus :
the train was stopped, and all but the guards desired
to lie down and keep close ; the enemy still coming on
very leisurely, but evidently not at ease, ever and anon
casting her black-tipped nose aloft, looking over her
shoulder, and sniffing at something not pertaining to us.
Malheuremement, the wolf now showed himself, and
just as we considered our game certain, made a feint in
rear, spoiling all. Mamma was quite on the alert, and
intent to save her cub : off they went at a canter. Our

* It was then charged with oil ; it has since been deposited at the
Royal College of Surgeons.

262 A BEAR HUNT.

five dogs were slipped, and the young men of the party
followed up the hunt. Gallantly did the dogs behave,
the wolf acting in concert : and at a most critical mo-
ment, when Punch (our Punch) was making a deter-
mined assault on the cub, mamma put her paw on him !
All was breathless suspense, for this was our pet. At
this instant the wolf proved his superior tactics by at-
tacking Madam in rear, when Punch was released, and
escaped, not much damaged : but he was not cowed,
and proved himself a fine, courageous animal. One or
two ineffectual shots were fired, and the party returned,
when we renewed our journey, encamping at seven A.M.
on a low spit, probably a-wash, if free from ice. The
loss of one of the bears was much felt, our stock of food
for the dogs being now nearly gone ; however, from the
number of tracks, we expect soon to have more of their
society. The change of travelling time entails on me
the duty of watching the sun from nine A.M. until near
three P.M., but does not call for any assistant ; tempera-
ture at noon 44. Before starting this evening I deter-
mined on depositing the ' Hamilton' on this point, as
affording the most convenient spot for sea operations,
should her services be required ; and as our route now
seemed to promise an almost direct journey along the
land to Jones's Sound, it was not probable that we
should require her aid until it became necessary to make
further examination of North Cornwall in July next.
Here also were deposited the return rations of five days,
in iron-bound casks, for each of the two long-journey
sledges, 'Londesborough' and 'Dauntless.' A very con-
siderable pile was constructed of the surrounding frozen

1853.]

HAMILTON DEPOT.

263

turf, and above this the boat was inverted, with her niast
reversed or stepped on her keel by our mode of rig, and
a large blue flag hoisted to mark this as another of our
fixed stations in the survey, to which the name of Ha-
milton depot was given.

264

CHAPTER XI.

Inconvenient elevation. Cape Disraeli. Imbedded Whale. Depar-
ture of Mr. Allard. Determination of speed. Strait discovered.
Progress arrested by the Pack. Snow Crystals. Discover open
water. Overland March. Progress barred. Fossil Station. Deep
Soundings. Pack Ice. A hollow Cairn. Cape Disappointment.
Wellington Channel. Apparent Graves. Pitch Mount. Bears.

THESE arrangements complete, at six P.M. (temp. 5) we
moved forward, intending, as the weather proved hazy,
to adhere to the tidal or land-floe crack, which would
securely, although circuitously, lead its to our next po-
sition ; but we were again most deceitfully led into an-
other ascent, until we suddenly discovered, through the
momentary cessation of drift, that we had upon this
occasion rather a steepish declivity ahead, and that we
had arrived at an elevation of at least eighty feet above
the level ; and yet our men at the drag-belts had not dis-
covered the increased labour due to the ascent ! Until
we fairly ascertained our position further progress might
entail unnecessary labour, as, from the distance traversed,
we computed that we could not be two hours' march
from our next important station ; we therefore encamped,
and shortly after, on the cessation of snow, noticed, about

1853.] CAPE DISRAELI. 265

four miles east-south-east, the remarkable jutting head-
land seen from Mount Parker : our delay was fortunate,
and saved much labour, and possibly the destruction of
the sledges.

May 13. At noon the weather was fine, moderately
clear, and warm, with the temperature at 20; latitude,
76 44' N. At eight, with a temperature of -f-5, we
moved forward. Our course now lay down-hill, for the
nearest floe-edge (luckily a frozen swamp or pool) be-
came available, which led us out of our dilemma by its
outlet to the sea, and before midnight we were encamped
at the base of the remarkable headland before noticed.
Mr. Allard was now ordered to complete our two sledges
to forty days each, and return to the ship, replenishing
at the back depots up to Princess Royal Island ; on his
return from the ship, accompanied by Dr. Lyall and his
ten-men sledge, he was to bring up the whale-boat,
should open water render any such step advisable. Our
party ascended the mount, elevated about eight hundred
feet above the sea, from whence our immediate course
and future operations would be determined. This was
a critical position, involving perhaps our ultimate suc-
cess or failure in reaching Jones's Sound. We had now
lessened our latitude to 76 41' 30" N., ten miles south
of the ship's position ; and here we had reached an
angle, dividing two lines of advance. A wide, capacious
channel invited to the south, possibly turning, beyond
the points in view, westerly or easterly, but clearly to
my mind not a navigable sea ; it might lead to Jones's
Sound, but " the great object of our search" was over
navigable seas, and where any party escaping would in-

266 AN IMBEDDED WHALE. [May,

fallibly leave some sign. The other course was due east,
seen, it is true, by myself only, almost as a dream, but so
doubtfully and indistinctly to the naked eyes of others as
not quite to satisfy them ; but there is no accounting for
sight. Now it should be recollected that my sight was
assisted by a theodolite and good telescope, through which
no one else cared to look. I had seen enough to satisfy
my mind. Our cairn was built, the territory duly taken
possession of, and, as this sack was to be duly kept until
my return, I thought it but prudent that the Chancellor
of the Exchequer should seal it ; it was therefore named
Cape Disraeli. On our ascent two ptarmigan were fired
at, but the gun was bad and I missed killing, but
wounded one, which probably was enjoyed by some fox.

May 14. On our descent we again met with another
imbedded whale, and at about the same elevation. Our
position at noon placed us in 76 41' N. and about 91
30' W., as yet to the west of Cape Hogarth, and only
twenty-nine miles north of that position : I could not
therefore afford delay here, without anything offering be-
yond following up land traces by this channel, nor could
I venture to move further southerly ; yet I felt very un-
easy at leaving this strait unsearched.

At noon the sun shone out powerfully, and dispelled
some of the snow-charged vapours hanging over the out-
line ; and yet the thermometer did not rise above 15, and
only 44 in the tent. All were absorbed in deep sleep,
when suddenly, in the far east, two resplendent white
caps (distant, I found, thirty-six miles) revealed them-
selves, marking out the gates of our channel. An inde-
scribable sensation pervaded me : I sang out, as C'ulum-

1853.] DEPARTURE OF MR. ALLARD. 267

bus no doubt did to his friends, " Master ! (Mr. Loney,)
I have it." " What, Sir ?" " The key of Jones's Sound."
Such it proved. A snore, and ah 1 again was silence. I
continued measuring base, taking angles, etc., to deter-
mine the importance of Cape Disraeli as to height, etc.,
which resulted in eight hundred and forty feet ; but sleep
I found impracticable.

About six P.M. the sledges were packed ; Mr. Allard
received his instructions to a particular day, then very
doubtful (and not intended), when we were to meet
again at Princess Royal Island : under the customary
cheers, with banners displayed, we parted on opposite
courses.

Our journey, through a dense and almost impracti-
cable pack, became very difficult, rendering it necessary
to double-man our sledges by spells, and eventually we
emerged on the comparative smooth floe, having accom-
plished about half a mile in four hours. At midnight
the temperature fell to 5. Our wolf deserted us, re-
turning, I believe, with Mr. Allard, who took away three
dogs : a she-bear and cub, worried by a wolf, were no-
ticed at a great distance, and avoided us.

The morning of the 15th was brilliant ; we encamped
at seven A.M., after a laborious day. All the distant
land was enveloped in haze, and previous excitement,
added to some degree of fatigue, had induced me to
sleep, so that I got up too late to catch the sun at noon :
I was however very content to enjoy alone and undis-
turbed the scenery which about that moment became
unveiled, and, aided by sun and several of my well-fixed
landmarks, I was enabled to prune the coast-line of any

268 DETERMINE RATE OF TRAVEL. \_May,

chance errors. We breakfasted at four, this being Sun-
day, and at six P.M., after prayers, with a temperature of
7, moved forward. The floe had now become uniformly
smooth and clear of hummocks. Hitherto the rate of
travel had been estimated, the efforts were irregular, and
resting periods undetermined : this did not suit me. I
travel always, for years past, with reels of the strongest
cable-laid sewing-cotton, capable of sustaining fair weights
fourteen pounds : these I had measured before leav-
ing the ship, and they were found to be very correct in
length, viz. one hundred fathoms (it is marked, Patent
line, two hundred yards) : of this line I brought eighteen
reels, equal to eighteen hundred fathoms : some had been
rewound on a core, with the running part from the centre,
as customary in grocers' shops, etc., which prevented any
chance of undue twist. These lines were intended for
sounding in great depths ; and the entire loss of the line
proved but a cheap mode of purchasing a valuable fact,
for the failure of finding bottom in great depths is valu-
able information.

May 16. Making use of one hundred fathoms and
the chronometer, on the principle of the log, I was en-
abled to determine the period at which the sledge moved
over six hundred feet of snow ; the result, at very slow
travelling, gave one mile in forty minutes. As this was
easy work, I enacted that each spell should occupy forty
minutes, and an interval for rest of ten minutes, securing
a mean value of one mile in every fifty minutes of travel-
ling ; thus, in a complete day, we had, from six P.M. till
midnight, six hours, one hour for luncheon, smoking,
etc., and five hours, up to six A.M., making together

1853.] DISCOVER THE MOUTH OF A STRAIT. 269

eleven hours, or 13'2 miles. I considered that eight
miles was a fair mean, and fifteen an excited, journey ;
but on the third day from quitting Cape Disraeli we had
made good, notwithstanding the heavy difficulties attend-
ing our starting, thirty-six geographic miles.

In the first instance I thought forty minutes might
be deemed a long spell, but I soon ascertained that fre-
quently, our time-bearer being ahead picking the road,
and his signal unnoticed, that fifty-six minutes or more
stole away imperceptibly. Of this however I seldom
failed to learn, after pitching, by some dry remark from
some of the party; they always fancied they had achieved
at least fifteen miles. The reflected rays of the sun be-
tween midnight and six A.M. being principally in our
faces, caused much inconvenience to the eyes, and re-
tarded the morning's work considerably.

May 17. The latter part of our journey has been
through rough and hummocky ice. About midnight
we lunched near the first seal-hole we had noticed since
passing Star Bluff Bath ; about six A.M. we encamped
on the smooth floe, but the weather was too thick to dis-
tinguish any objects but our two friends, the direction
bluffs (Capes Derby and Stanley), distant about five miles
south-east. The temperature had now risen to 1 5.

On coming out at noon to obtain the latitude, the fog
had dispersed, revealing to me a most interesting channel,
inviting our entry : the main road was here clearly de-
lineated, and studded on either side by noble, beetling
cliffs, each exhibiting a similar dark belt of stratification
above the line of debris, affording, to me at least, a nobler
and more acceptable view than any vista of palaces.

270 PROGRESS ARRESTED BY THE PACK. \_May,

In the distance, where several ranges of intrusive hum-
mocks interfered with the observations I wished to
obtain, I could perceive similar high, golden-tinted cliffs,
just showing like gems above the horizon, of a bright
flame-colour, but between them and the north land a
clear gap showed the distant and free horizon. As I
stood alone, all my party locked in sleep, I felt the
sullen grandeur of the scene, and looked forward, with
no common feeling of interest, to place the colours of our
Queen on those bright specks ! As to disturbing my
companions, it was useless ; they would soon see enough
of it, and possibly might not be over-grateful for breaking
in upon some pleasant dream of very different objects.
Within our grasp the accomplishment at least of this
qucBstio vexata appeared, to my anxious mind, certain ;
everything seemed to be in our favour, provision, men,
and high spirits ; I therefore went to my bag ! Our
latitude was to a second the same as that observed
under Cape Disraeli, making our course hither, due east,
thirty-six geographic miles.

May 17. Temp. 22. About seven P.M. we moved
forward : I had a strong inclination to take the north-
ern shore, at all events until I could gain a good eleva-
tion from whence to see my way in advance.* Strange
impulse ! We had reached more than mid-channel, and
had lunched at the furthest limit on the floe from whence
I could command the stations on each side, as well as
the distant laud. Here we were arrested by an imprac-
ticable, heavy, and very high pack : our only resource

* It was this station wliicli served to fix all the distant objects
easterly.

1853.] PECULIARITIES OF SNOW CRYSTALS. 271

was the southern side, and that scarcely afforded ad-
vance. The entire channel appeared to be pressed home
with heavy pack, and suspicious withal. Water, a stran-
ger to us for some time, might be seen in the holes ;
the very cliffs themselves, frowning on either side, with
their dark stratified upper features, seemed calmly to de-
ride our efforts to penetrate these mysterious recesses.

j\fay IS. While Ave delayed it began to snow. We
had long joked on the different forms in which these
crystallized particles fell, and had classed them into fa-
vourable, harmless, and unfavourable. We have to deal
with the favourable, or that which, falling in large, beau-
tifully formed crystals, in their most elaborate degree
of finish, I had termed " stars and garters," from their
similarity to the star of that Order, excepting that it
has eight rays, whereas Nature only gives six. It now
snowed " stars and garters." Seamen are a little su-
perstitious. I seized this as a favourable omen, and
pushed for the southern shore, landing about six, when
the sun shone brightly, and we obtained our time, etc. :
but it soon resumed harmless snow. I succeeded in ob-
taining the latitude, placing this new land in 76 38' 21"
north ; and taking possession in due form, named our di-
rection heads Capes Derby and Stanley, and the terri-
tory North Yorkshire. The position abounding in fossil
limestone, chiefly of the Derbyshire marble, with Entro-
chi, TerebratulfB, etc., obtained the name of " Fossil Sta-
tion." At seven P.M. we pushed forward, skirting the tidal
crack : but our work was not pleasant ; the evening less
so, owing to a south gale brewing, which, concentrated
into this pipe of the channel funnel, would perhaps

272

DISCOVER OPEN WATER.

{.May,

cause us to lose a day. And yet how fortunate have we
been never delayed an hour by weather ! We followed
our course under the base of these beetling cliffs, shoot-
ing their debris into the sea (when unfrozen). The strip
available for travelling was at times reduced to such a
very steep incline of drift snow, that we were compelled
to take to the rough ice. In our march round the base
of the cliffs one ptarmigan was seen, and Mr. Grove killed
a small hare.

May 19. About four A.M. our further progress was
arrested by the dense and impenetrable pack up to the
cliffs : off-shore it proved still more disheartening ; had

it been merely ice, through which we could have cut our
way, the matter would have been simply one of labour.
Mr. Loney advanced to reconnoitre, but the result of his
report decidedly closed further specvdation : the water
had made between ! The glacier, abruptly broken off in
advance, was sea-washed, and the channel exhibited un-
mistakable evidence of breaking up !

1853.] OVERLAND MARCH. 273

The only alternative remaining was to pitch our tents,
and decide on making the most of our position. I was
not yet quite convinced that we might not, by sacrificing
a little of that precious article time, convey one sledge
overland until we met the floe again, and, leaving the
'Dauntless' party here, proceed alone with the 'Londes-
borough.' Thoughts and orders follow in rapid succes-
sion. Our arrangements were complete by nine P.M.,
and the weather having changed, the double party were
in march "over the hills" in high spirits, carrying one
tent, sleeping bags, and provision for five days : if any
prospect of success promised, the party would return for
a sledge and further provision. Tin's was a change, a
cheerful change, too, from our dilemma, and what is
not to well-disposed men? and we had the pickings of
a very fine crew, relieving some of those likely to suffer
from the crew of the ' Enterprise.'

About noon we lunched on Victoria Peak, North
Yorkshire, elevated about fifteen hundred feet or more
above the sea, enlivened by a beautiful midnight sun,
clear, and temperature 18. But our fate was decided:
not only open water from shore to shore, close up to
our late encampment, prevailed, but the entire sea, east-
erly as well as northerly, was navigable, streaked only
by sailing ice. But although checked for a time in this
direction, from this elevation other objects for ' Hope'
and ' Enterprise' discovered themselves : north-westerly
new islands showed out, and afforded reason to hope,
disappointed as we must feel in not placing the confir-
matory cylinder on Austin's cairn, or exchanging ours
for it in Jones's Sound, that we saw its commanding

VOL. i. T

274 FURTHER PROGRESS BARRED. {May,

headland, and had now the prospect of adding further
lands to Her Majesty's Polar territories in the north-
west. But we had not yet finished ; the furthest avail-
able station must be reached, and the colours planted
on the eastern head of this new strait.

May 20. At seven A.M. (temp. 20) we reached tho
bounding cliff, possibly fifteen hundred feet above the
sea, which was named, in compliment to one of our ban-
ner ladies, Britannia Cliffs : beyond this, advance was
absurd, but not impracticable for possibly three miles,
but only to descend to the floe, and reascend with loss
of strength, etc. I determined therefore to be content
with my position, and make good my ground, preferring
complete observations to any puerile attempt at enlarg-
ing my " streak upon paper" at the expense of want of
verification (English, truth}. We surveyors know the
value of " taking time by the forelock :" that only could
indelibly establish our furthest, as well as the position of
the extreme land in sight.

Here we stood on this noble headland on the 20th of
May, in a bright, warm sun, in latitude 76 30' 42" north,
and eastward of 90 west, with an open navigable sea
below us: yes! the "Polar Sea," for aught any man
knows to the contrary, beneath us ; to the south-east-
ward several large arms, or inland rivers of some extent,
penetrating, even visibly to us, deeply into the land, form-
ing probably other islets, and connecting eventually with
Jones's Strait or Sound. On this bare, bleak mountain,
having obtained all that was required, I at length went
to sleep, and for the first time probably disappointment
and fatigue rendered my nap sound. The land on the op-

1858.] RETURN TO FOSSIL STATION. 275

posite side of this strait was clearly an island, to which
I gave the name of North Kent, and to the south-eastern
conspicuous cape, Prince Edward's Cape ; the remaining
remarkable extremes I leave for Her Majesty's pleasure.
May 21. After building a large stone cairn, having
placed others on four different hills, and deposited the
customary records, we struck our tent at nine P.M. (temp.
20), and, retracing our steps, reached our rendezvous
about three A.M. ; made coffee to recruit the men, and
then moved westerly to obtain a more sheltered posi-
tion for repose. During our absence, a bear had been
noticed sauntering about the bay, but, even with one
man in charge, did not approach the tent. We were
much deceived in the distance, and when we pitched,
'Dauntless' was at least two miles behind. At noon I
was the only unfortunate gazing at the sun. I found
here a splinter, or cortical layer, of a pine-tree, not aged.
Waiting until ten P.M. for ' Dauntless,' we moved for-
ward, reaching our old encampment at Fossil Station
about 1.30, where we pitched : the weather now be-
came cold, attended with sleet and bad-omened snow.
About three the ' Dauntless' rejoined, and, the weather
having improved, we ascended the commanding height
near Cape Derby, in the hope of being able to make out
(being fifteen miles nearer) our new islands to the north-
west. The temperature was 14, but bitter cold from the
south-east, and the driving snow, just before we gained
the summit, destroyed every prospect. This mountain,
unlike any we have seen, is composed near its summit of
grauwacke slate, of which, as it furnished noble building
slabs, we constructed our cairns. On our return to the

276 NO SOUNDINGS WITH 400 FATHOMS. [May,

tent we found the weather perfectly mild. Since our last
visit the snow had nearly disappeared, and revealed five
circles of stones, marking probably the resting-places of
Esquimaux, but very old : they could never have occurred
there by any freak of Nature. Our place of encampment
was also a strange accumulation of fossiliferous rounded
rocks. This position afforded us the first opportunity of
determining the rates of our chronometers, which appear
to have behaved well ; one being my own, well tried for
twenty-three years, I knew the value of, but the other
belonged to Government.

At seven P.M. we moved forward against a cold, bleak,
north-west breeze, and about midnight fell upon our out-
ward track, and lunched at one of our former stations,
near the seal-hole. Such an opportunity was too valu-
able to lose, and I here tried for soundings in the seal-
hole with a two-pound lump of lead, and the cottons
(to which I have already alluded) : four reels rapidly va-
nished, but no bottom, with four hundred fathoms in the
strait. The current was found to set very strong to the
west (true).

About six A.M. on the 23rd we pitched about two
miles in advance of one of our late bivouacks. The sun
again lent his cheering rays, but, " after recent expo-
sures," attended by unmistakable appearances of thaw in
the strait, not unattended by the drawback that it might
break up the pack before we reached Cape Disraeli, I
possibly was not so grateful for his presence as I might
have felt at any other period. Breaking up " the pack"
and breaking up " the floe" are so widely distinct, that I
think some explanation is needed ; in few words, there-

1853.] REMARKS ON PACK ICE. 277

fore, the floe is a homogeneous frozen mass, of possibly
miles in extent, averaging from three feet to three feet
six inches, or four feet, in thickness ; it is tough, elastic,
not easily upset, and impermeable to the sea; but the
pack, being but a collection of bits of floe, or bay ice,
broken into pieces of every size and in every imaginable
idea of confusion, at one place two feet, at another twenty
or thirty, and only cemented by casual freezing, tumbles
asunder by its own inequality of weight, rending the
heavier from the lighter by any slight access of tempera-
ture, or still more vigorously by cracking and letting the
warmer sea at this period never below 29 '5 flow in
between the joinings. Such a body of ice is at all times
suspicious ; we look upon it in the light of sedition in
the camp, and calculate pretty correctly that the spring
will relieve us of such rubbish when we can cut through
the simple three-feet ice and persuade it to float out of
our way.

On the 25th, being then near to the entrance of the
southern lead from Cape Disraeli, I moved towards the
eastern peninsula, in order to erect a beacon, directing
the ' Dauntless' to pitch on our old outward track, near
the pack, and await my regaining. Our tent was pitched
about a mile from the shore, at the verge of the rough
ice, from whence we walked to the shore, ascending the
crest of a very remarkable little peninsula, forming a
deep bay within it to the southward -. from hence I saw
down the throat of this strait, nearly due south, but it
was too hazy to obtain any satisfactory clue. Construct-
ing a substantial rocky pile, of five feet base by eight
feet four inches in height, we returned to our tent, re-

278 RETURN TO CAPE DISRAELI. \_May,

joined ' Dauntless,' and proceeded on to Cape Disraeli.
Our old friend, the wolf, now rejoined, but the charm
was broken ; the tabu no longer existed : he had better
keep out of range : I had lost all confidence in his
" trusty" and honest intentions ; he was henceforth a
victim to science, if taken, and might eventually figure
in one of our national museums : I find Parry did not
obtain one.

About six A.M. on the 25th we took possession of our
old quarters under Cape Disraeli : bears, both old and
young, had been searching ; but it is strange that they
did not devour our fat pork, bacon rinds, etc., which
were still apparent and untouched. I resolved now to
search this southern channel, and therefore sent the crew
of the ' Dauntless' to rebuild, on a larger scale, our upper
mark on this cape : I considered it yet possible that
some sharp turning easterly might again throw us into
some connection with another channel leading to Jones's
Strait. My own preconceived opinion, in August, 1822,
relative to the vapour or apparent smoke seen from the
deck, and reported from the crow's-nest " as fog rising
from water behind the range of mountains," now recurred
to me. It was clear to my mind that there was abundant
water to produce any quantity of such vapours ; and our
position here being but twenty-eight miles and three-
quarters north of my position on Point Hogarth, and,
deducting eighteen miles for the interval of land, there
was yet abundant scope for any channel taking an east-
erly course.

On the 26th, at seven P.M., we started on this explo-
ration, under sail ; a fresh snow-storm breeze sent us

1853.] DISCOVER A HOLLOW CAIRN. 279

unpleasantly fast over the rough floe, endangering the
sledge : it was very similar to that encountered in the
creek in Northumberland Sound, in April, but the ice
was less undulatory. In order therefore to avoid this, we
hauled close in to the land, ranging the snow line, just
within the tidal ridge, or where the land-water would
leave level surfaces.

The 'Dauntless' being yet far astern, we delayed for
her coming up, erecting several piles, and examined one
on a hill, which had deceived us considerably. Once I
became entirely cut off by a snow-storm; and being
alone, and fearing the sledge might move forward and
miss me, at the rapid rate it travelled, left me not very
comfortable. On the 'Dauntless' rejoining and weather
thickening, we pitched for the night under shelter.

At seven P.M. on the 27th, the weather having slightly
improved, we moved forward, directing Mr. Grove, of
the ' Dauntless,' to erect a beacon on the opposite shore.
We steered for the base of a very remarkable hill, which
jutted considerably into the channel, on the opposite
side, where Mr. Grove had been instructed to rejoin me :
having lunched there, we commenced the ascent, merely
intending to place a pile on the first level. A brace of
ptarmigan led me higher, one of which the gun killed,
when I noticed a structure over my head which seemed
to offer materials for a cairn : as I n eared it I began to
trace the operation of art, and a few moments sufficed to
place me beside a cairn, or hollow dome, constructed by
man, and evidently of comparatively recent date ! This
required attention : the stones were carefully removed,
the minutest piece of moss or snow being searched for

280 DESCRIPTION OF CAIRN. [May,

any relic stowed between, which might afford some light
as to its formation, or by whom. We were totally unsuc-
cessful ; it therefore only remains for me to describe its
construction.

It was a double cone, being about eight feet on the
axis and about the same at its greatest diameter : the
rough computation at the time gave about forty courses
of stone, varying from two to four inches, all parallel,
selected slabs, and some appeared too heavy for any pair
of our men to transport even for a few yards. These
stones were not similar to those in the immediate
vicinity, but were evidently obtained from a lower sand-
stone level ; how they could have been brought up to
this position was perplexing. The surrounding stones

were all of large size, and would possibly afford some,
but none of the peculiar gritty sandstone of which the
upper and larger tablets were composed. The internal
height, excepting in the centre, was not above four feet ;
and the interior appeared, as each slab was removed, to
have been very carefully filled in with small flat stones
and moss, and yet no moss was to be found growing
near it in any direction ! It was tuarxh ///o*x, and must

1853.] CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT. 281

have been brought from below. The orifice at the apex
was about three feet in diameter, and the covering-stone
had been left open, by which it became partially filled
with snow. The general impression was that it was of
recent construction : no trace of age was visible, although
every adjacent stone on the mount bore a most rugged,
barren, weother-worn, and lichen-covered aspect. I would
have named it Mount Desolation, but Cape Disappoint-
ment was substituted.

Every instant I expected to hear some shout of sur-
prise ; but all was mystery, no document, European or
Esquimaux. Its position was in itself curious, standing
on a shoulder of the hill, commanding a view up and
down the strait, and about five hundred feet above the
level ; the ascent also very fatiguing. I cannot imagine it
to be a cache, for it would be mere amusement to a bear
to dismantle such a structure. At one time I fancied it
built for temporary shelter ; but it was a work of too
much time for such an object, and, situated as this was,
no such idea could be entertained.

On reaching the base we were rejoined by the ' Daunt-
less,' and again moved forward ; Mr. Grove had killed
one ptarmigan. They were again despatched on a spe-
cial mission to the opposite coast, whilst we continued
ii long the western shore. Proceeding to the nearest spit
point, we pitched, and fortunately killed two ptarmigan.
The coast here is cut up by mountain streams (when do
they run ?) into all imaginable terraces and ravines, lead-
ing one to imagine that at some time this strait must be
all in commotion ; possibly it froze when it last was so,
for the ice at present does not lead one to imagine that

282 REACH PTARMIGAN STATION.

it has thawed for ages ! heavy, wavy, whitish-blue ice,
but partially covered with suow, and presenting more of
lake than sea formation. When these rivers are set in
motion by the thaws, it is not improbable that they flow
over the ice and freeze immediately. The temperature
on the land when thaw occurs at present I find, at three
feet above the earth, to range between 20 and 24, when
at the same moment it would exhibit a temperature as
low as 14 on the floe surface : the thaw therefore must
result from the absorption of heat by the earth and
stones alone during the day.

The latitude of this position was 76 34' N., and it
received the appellation of Ptarmigan Station from the
birds killed here, as well as being our first fresh kalf-
meal obtained from our guns. The soil composing this
point being a very fine sand, covered here and there with
patches or tufts of saxifrage, without a trace of rock, com-
pelled us to construct our pile of the tufts, cemented with
nioist snow and sand, which, freezing as we progressed,
led us to hope that it might at least hold together until
our next station was established.

On the 28th of May, the temperature having risen, we
were incommoded by a fall of moist snow, sufficiently
heavy to detain us to clear out and restow our sledge,
so that we did not succeed in quitting our position until
near nine, which delay enabled our consort, the ' Daunt-
less,' to rejoin, when we proceeded towards the southern
depth of the bay, estimated as distant five miles, and not
at all indicating any prospect of an opening.

If one trusted merely to appearances in this service,
he would most assuredly, in many cases, be deceived ;

1853.] VIEW OF WELLINGTON CHANNEL. 288

and it is one of the unpleasant duties connected with
search of the nature imposed on us, that the truth must
be proved, uot guessed. Forward we moved, and at
midnight, enjoying a brighter sun than we had experi-
enced for many days, halted to lunch at its eastern
depth, fully believing that our journeying in this direc-
tion was at an end. During the period allowed for this
ineal, I ascended the hill immediately above, and there
detected that two low, overlapping points, immediately
beneath, concealed a narrow channel connecting another
great bay, and that further progress was available at
least five miles, and in the distance an extensive floe-
covered sea could be traced to the horizon : that sea,
I knew at once, could be no other than the Wellington

O

Channel ; and thus were we rewarded for our persisting
against hope, and, I may say, strong opinion, by the dis-
covery which was now presented.

Moving forward with much improved spirits, we soon
opened out a new scene, and passing through a very nar-
row gorge, not exceeding an eighth of a mile in width,
found ourselves within a spacious basin, extending to the
south-east and south-west. The ice within the points im-
mediately changed its character from the common smooth
travelling, snow-covered floe, to the bared, undulated ice
noticed generally in deep creeks, rendering our footing
very insecure, and sledge-travelling troublesome. About
four A.M. we reached the south-eastern angle of the basin,
where a narrow tortuous channel, still affording sledge
movement, appeared to connect the two seas by tidal
lakes, and this very apparent by the occurrence of fre-
quent pyramidal breaks, occasioned by the rise and fall
of tide over the rocks subjacent.

284 FIRST FRESH RUNNING STREAM. [May,

During the examination of some of these irregularities
on one of the upper levels, by the aid of axes, etc., the
water was detected running in a pretty smart current
beneath, and, on tasting, proved to be sufficiently fresh
for washing purposes, thus affording to our crews a very
unexpected treat : at one spot we found also pure,
fresh, lively aerated water, the first we had noticed since
the previous August. To explain the importance of such
a discovery, it will be merely necessary to observe, that
all our water obtained hitherto involved an expense of
fuel, by thawing snow, and therefore it was a most pre-
cious commodity. It had been our general practice, as
far as saving of fuel would permit, to warm sufficient
water daily to afford some kind of ablution, more parti-
cularly to the cook, and this was found very materially
to refresh and invigorate the crew, as well as to conduce
to their general health. Washing and drinking therefore
became the fashion at this " watering-place," and in these
excesses they were suffered to indulge during our deten-
tion, much to their improvement in general health and
comfort, as well as in personal appearance.

Leaving our hands thus engaged, and pitching the
tents, I commenced a stroll up the mountain immedi-
ately overlooking.

It is curious at times to reflect how this habit of
strolling, and without any sensation of fatigue after a hard
day's travel, finds one unconsciously, and I might say
injudiciously, perched high above his friends, unprepared
and unarmed for offence or defence. I had in this man-
ner reached a commanding elevation of fourteen hundred
feet, affording a magnificent view of most of* my well-
known objects in Wellington Channel ; Cape Majendie,

1853.] APPARENT GRAVES DISCOVERED. 285

Dundas and Hamilton Islands, westerly; and to the east-
ward Cape Hogarth and nature's own cairn were clearly
defined. But 1 had brief time to dwell on these objects:
ray attention was arrested by two structures, not many
yards from where I stood, and, from their outlines, ex-
citing greater interest than the cairn noticed on Mount
Discovery. These were apparently graves, and, to my
senses, raised by European hands ; moreover, in no sin-
gle feature did they resemble anything hitherto noticed
among Esquimaux. I approached, examined them, and
still felt more convinced that in the present case my con-
jectures were well founded. My first impression was to
remove the slabs, and proceed to the examination, but
they were very heavy ; and it occurred to me that the
disturbance, as well as examination, should be under-
taken by other parties present to witness the result. I
therefore desisted, revolving in my mind, during my re-
turn to the tent, the discovery of the before-mentioned
cairn and these two objects, and fully prepared to expect
some result throwing satisfactory light on the object of
our Expedition.

The direction of these structures was east and west
(true) : the length too great for the body of any Esqui-

-

maux, being about seven or eight feet, and three feet in
width : each end was terminated by three slabs, over-
lying each other in gradation, and to my ideas intended

286 LARV.E OF FLIES.

to represent head and foot stones. If one such structure
had been a freak of Nature, she seldom repeats such
freaks within thirty yards.

May 30. About six P.M. the sledge crews separated ;
that of the ' Dauntless' to examine the outer remark-
able headlands, and erect conspicuous cairns, and our
own party to search these structures and the general fea-
tures of the coast easterly.

After a very close examination, removing every loose
stone to the foundation in the solid rock, not a vestige
of anything but black dead moss was discovered, and
portions of this so blackened and pressed that it was at
first mistaken for human hair ; however, after due exami-
nation under the microscope, and subjection to fire, its
vegetable origin was clearly proved. At the very base,
interspersed in the moss, numerous minute black cells,
subsequently proved to be the chrysalis coverings of mi-
nute flies,* were detected, which leads to the inference
that these may have been caches for deer, etc.

That these formations were constructed by human
hands, I have not the slightest doubt, moreover, in all
probability, by the same tribe which raised the cairn ;
but for what purpose remains still a matter of perplexity.
If for a cache, what necessity for moss ? for no moss or
vegetable production exists on this mount, and all this is
withered : beneath, near our tent, moss was very abun-
dant. But if they abstracted their food, why cover the
spots again so mysteriously ?

* These larvae and chrysalides in 1854 were discovered in peat near
our winter station : they probably belong to the remains of lemmings,
which resort to hollows under stones for shelter.

1853.] GRAVE MOUNT. 287

From these now demolished structures we constructed
a very substantial cairn, seven feet in diameter by nine
in height, stripping the pseudo-graves to their bases,
which we found to be excavated out of the solid rock.
But from whence these heavy, durable slabs were ob-
tained still remains a mystery, as the rock composing
the surface of this mount was chiefly of a loose, rubbly,
fossiliferous limestone, hardly cohering sufficiently for re-
moval in tolerably sized plates for constructing our pile,
and between the laminse abounding in Terebrafula, En-
troclti, etc. None of the supposed grave-slabs were of
this very loose character, and although we visited two
other stations on this same range, the stone was found
to be still more rotten and rubbly, exhibiting however
columnar bits of two feet in length by about four to six
inches square. Nothing at the base favoured any forma-
tion of solid stone, and the only position not examined
was on the north steep incline, where it appeared to have
a slaty structure ; but that would require great labour
to transport up at least a hundred feet of hill, and tools
also to work withal. By trigonometric measurement the
height of this hill, to -which the name of Grave Mount
was given, was found to be fourteen hundred feet, and
our position at its base to be in latitude 70 23' north,
differing but ten miles in latitude from my position on
Cape Hogarth. Moving to the eastern summit of this
range, which completely commanded all the features of
Prince Alfred Bay, stations were taken up, which com-
pletely confined its limits, reducing it somewhat from its
former dimensions. At this moment all our cairns were
purposely constructed to aid in any operations hereafter

288 PRINCE ALBERT'S ISLAND.

from Wellington Channel ; and, curiously enough, our de-
tention in the following August rendered them important
aids in fixing our positions, whilst drifted to and fro by
the moving floe.

The strait connecting the two seas received the name
of Arthur's Strait, in compliment to the Prince, as well
as to the Duke, his noble namesake. The range behind
was named the Douro Range.

The 'Dauntless' party returned from their labours
nearly about the same moment that we reached the
tents, having done good service about nine miles to the
west, where two more conspicuous cairns attested our
right to territory on what must now be termed Prince
Albert's Island.

The following day was passed much in a similar man-
ner, with the difference of our party visiting the most
conspicuous outer headland, immediately on the verge of
Wellington Channel, and about nine miles from our en-
campment. This position enabled me, by direct refer-
ence to our cairn on Cape Hogarth, to verify all longi-
tudes in connection with Beechey Island, and to confine
Baillie, Hamilton, and Dundas Islands within limits
easterly. The day proved bitter cold for handling metal
instruments, and the vapour which floated in the air, al-
though imperceptible to us, constantly impeded my ope-
rations by forming a thick incrustation of ice whenever
the object-glass was exposed to the breeze ; the sleet
also covered the instrument with a fine sheet of filmy ice,
which destroyed its motion. One deer was seen, and
niy coxswain (one of Sir John Richardson's land party)
sent to kill it, but was unable to get within range : it

1853.] SHORT PERIOD OF SLEEP. 289

was very small, not exceeding the size of a small calf or
goat, and was furnished with a pair of small, flat horns,
which some of our men, not inappropriately, compared to
the sails of a windmill.

This night travelling has, I find, a very peculiar effect
on my constitution. I am not much addicted to sleep at
any time, and obtain but little calculated to support my
constitution; but on the march, generally about two A.M.,
or after luncheon, I am frequently seized with an uncon-
querable and very painful stupor, compelling me to lie
down or sit on the sledge during the ten-minute halts.
Today I was compelled to do so in this bitter cold;
fortunately however finding an easy chair formed by
Nature out of some limestone rocks, which protected me
from the breeze. The doze ranges between ten and fif-
teen minutes, is heavy and concentrated, and seems to
satisfy nature : at least I find myself relieved, at the ex-
pense however of none during the allotted period for rest.
I scarcely touch spirits for days, never at these times,
one day's allowance (one gill) being sufficient for five
or six days. I recollect one occasion, when a long ex-
posure between Liverpool -and the Kibble had exhausted
me, that some kind friends noticing my head to fall at
evening service, most charitably attributed it to inebria-
tion. The truth was, that I had been ah 1 night and two
days without food, and had drunk too much sea air.

The outer headland visited by us stands about one mile
within the Wellington Channel waters, the interval being
covered by a low, marshy belt projecting seaward, and
thus forming an opposite bay to that of Prince Alfred.
This fine height I named Mount Pym, after my esteemed

VOL. i. u

290 CONNECTION OF THE TWO SEAS.

friend Admiral Sir Samuel Pytn, his grandson also being
my boat companion. From tins height, in conjunction
with Grave Mount, I plainly traced the connection of
the two seas by two large lakes, with one of fresh water
feeding them.*

Here I first noticed the effect of a true fog. Our
temperature was 17, with a bitter north breeze, but the
air was clear, and objects well defined. Notwithstand-
ing, the vapour condensed on every object ; and the
coldest, our heavy stone cairn, was, before we left it, a
polished cone on the weather side, with the resemblance
of icicles, or thaw, pendent from the under edges ! Sub-
sequently, at other stations I remarked the same. Here
the ground was snow-clad, the sun had no influence at
midnight, and the temperature was 15 below freezing;
yet the atmosphere, northerly, was clearly "misty:" does
this come from the Polar Sea ?

We were naturally anxious to get back to our tent,
from which our computed distance was 9.2 miles direct.
We reached it in five hours and a half, slept, and about
nine P.M. on the 31st commenced our return up this
strait, picking up a new station at Pitch Mount, which
derived its name from a very strong naphtha and asphalt
effluvium, added to its swinestone formation. Mr. Grove
had ascended it by another route ; and informing me
that he had passed a small mark, which he would not
allow any of his people to disturb, I visited it in my
way down. Excitement in every degree seems to pervade

* This has since been named Grinncll Land, but not by me. I deny
the possibility of its being seen by any vessel from any point of the
parallel of 75 30' north : Hamilton Island may.

1853.] PECULIAR PILE OF STONES. 291

tliis channel. On reaching the mark I found a still more
perplexing puzzle than any we had yet met with. Solid
and heavy structures we well know are capable of resist-
ing the pressure of snow, wind, etc. ; but here was a
pile, consisting of five or six stones, constructed with
such mathematical ability by the hand of man, that it
was at present firm and complete, but tottering if any
one stone was abstracted !

To argue against the visit of man up this channel is
absurd : man built this cairn ; all these objects lie in his
direct path, and he selected heights. As to the ability of
the Western Esquimaux, I have many convincing speci-
mens of their workmanship, evincing a high degree of
intelligence, and a wonderful habit of adaptation of the
means to their object. If these structures had been of
this season, I should have imagined that Commander
Pullen or Mr. M'Cormick's people had forestalled me in
this channel : but the operations are, on mature reflec-
tion, too laborious for Europeans. They are the result
of long delay and constant application, to serve some
important purpose, at least deemed to be so by the con-
structors.

292 VISIT or A BEAR. \June,

Shouldering my gun, I sallied fortli across the bay,
prepared either for bear or ptarmigan, and visited
Dauntless Pile, where, after a cool walk for some hours,
investigating every rock of which it is composed, and
a fine green porphyry was amongst them, my crew re-
joined, and we moved on to sleep at Ptarmigan Station.
I was not in good spirits, for a most troublesome swell-
ing of my right cheek (carbuncle) worried me despe-
rately. One never likes to cut oneself up, particularly
in such cold weather ; and had I been so disposed, could
not see to do it. For my own part I attributed it to
eating pemmican ; others, to not eating enough . doctors
disagree. At this station we had an opportunity to sleep
without disturbance from the sun at noon, as it com-
menced blowing unpleasantly from the north-west, at-
tended with heavy snow.

June 1. At seven P.M. the wind fell, and with a tem-
perature of 20 we recommenced our journey. Shortly
after midnight a bear was seen coming down full trot
right before the wind, the weather proving hazy withal .
we all lay close, both sledges in line and duly prepared,
my coxswain having one double-barrel, myself the other,
and Mr. Grove behind with his rifle. Bears arc very
humorous, and even funny, in their way. Suddenly he
seemed to think he had left something behind, or he had
mistaken his objects ; possibly he deemed that we were
too large for seals, and making an awkward bow, as I
thought, within forty yards, was on the retreat : five
barrels were discharged, dogs set on, and the hunt com-
menced. I remained by the sledges, leaving the younger
ones to tire themselves, and quietly measured the dis-

1853.] CURIOUS PASTIME OF A SHE-BEAR. 2U3

tance to where he was, when I fired : this I found, to my
surprise, to be one hundred and forty-six yards. Still,
if the guns had been good, our game would have been
secured, the dogs fed, and we should have saved very
valuable fuel. The party returned unsuccessful. Punch
alone would not give up ; * his tongue was heard long
after ; and when it ceased, I felt very much afraid that
he would tire himself and become an easy victim : but
bears will run, and are not very anxious to face a dog.

We pushed on for Tongue Point, and there pitched.
More bears ! I was busy on the Point with the instru-
ment, watching for an object, when I noticed a lady and
her cub, amusing themselves, as I imagined, at a game
of romps, but the old lady was evidently the more ex-
cited. Possibly no such opportunity has before been
afforded to any naturalist of witnessing quietly the hu-
mours or habits of these animals. At first the motions
of the mother appeared to me as ridiculously absurd,
or as if she was teaching her cub to perform a summer-
set, or something nearly approaching it : but the cub
evinced no interest, no participation in the sport indeed
moved off and lay dowu,-apparently to sleep. The antics
too of the mother were too distant from the cub to prove
instructive. I will endeavour to convey my impression
of the exhibition, as viewed through the telescope, at a
distance of a quarter of a mile, as well as the object on
which she appeared intent, It must first be borne in
mind that a bear of such dimensions as that before me
would weigh about six and a half or seven hundred-

* Punch is one of the Cape York dogs, now at the Zoological Gar-
dens : the bravest of his species.

204 THE BEAK'S SUPPOSED OBJECT. [June,

weight. The object apparently in view was to break a
hole in the ice. In order to effect this, the claws were
first put into requisition, and, as nimbly and gracefully as
a dog, did the huge creature tear up and scatter snow
and ice to the winds : having removed, as she imagined,
sufficient, she then appeared to estimate her distance,
calculate on her leap, and in the effort came down per-
pendicular on her fore-paws over the spot which she had
scratched. Something, she imagined, had been effected.
She continued to repeat this scratching and amusing
mode of pounding until at length she appeared satisfied,
when she assumed an attitude of " dead point," with fore-
paw raised, and remained for some time immovable. The
question occurred to me, " Is this a mode, by concussion
and making a hole, of seducing a seal within gripe?" for
I have repeatedly noticed that when we cut for tide-pole,
fire-hole, etc., that these inquisitive animals will show
themselves. This, however, I leave for others to verify.
We now proceed to other business. Punch had rejoined :
Mr. Loney and one or two of the party, attended by the
dogs, endeavoured to get within shot : but Punch, poor
fellow, was done up, and could not be brought to the
scratch. The cub evidently had sealed orders to open
somewhere south-west : she bore up. Mamma steered
away south-east, and parted company, apparently after
the former bear, possibly her husband, and our party re-
turned to pemmican and sleep. The experience we have
had of bears' habits fully warrants the impression that
they are afraid of man, dog, or wolf, singly, and would
inevitably run from them if escape was available ; but
cases may occur where, finding themselves suddenly and

185;3.1 REVISIT CAPE DISRAELI. 295

unexpectedly confronted, they are driven to desperation,
and endeavour to show fight. All animals at bay are
dangerous. The Polar bear is cunning and inquisitive,
and having discovered your power, very wisely declines
the combat.

About noon the heat in the tent became very oppres-
sive, the internal thermometer exhibiting 80, when that
outside stood at 30 ; the heat, nevertheless, exposed to
sun, was biting. At six A.M. the face of this sloping
point was encased by an entire sheet of ice, scarcely af-
fording standing ground, and compelling me to resort to
the aid of a boarding pike for safety : at six P.M. thaw
had entirely denuded the point, rendering it unpleasantly
soft and yielding. This uncovered the skeleton of ano-
ther whale imbedded in the soil, about eighty feet above
the mean level.

About six P.M., with a favourable wind aiding, we
again pushed forward, reaching about midnight the
skirting belt of Cape Disraeli, and, as time was precious,
taking two of the party, I took the mount "by the
horns," obtained the requisite observations, rejoining the
division about the time they reached our old encamp-
ment. We experienced a bitter cold wind on the sum-
mit, and a repetition of the freezing fog alluded to at
Cape Pyni. The result however repaid the exertion, and
spared a special ascent during the proper time for rest.
I had become very anxious during the late high tempe-
ratures about the " north water," fearing that if it made,
we might be impeded in our contemplated expedition to
the new islands seen in the northern horizon.

At this station a flight of brent-geese, an owl, several

296 BRENT GEESE NOTICED. [June.

plover, and a few snow-buntings, were noticed ; and the
snow having disappeared from the lower slopes, revealed
a pretty fair collection of vegetable life, affording tole-
rable feed for deer or musk-oxen, none of which however
delighted our expectant eyes.

297

CHAPTER XII.

Hamilton Depot. Mount Parker. Patches of Water. Musk-oxen.
Dr. Lyall and Mr. AUard rejoin. Preparations for search North-
wards. Lost Dog. Freaks of Refraction. Western Island. Effeet
of Sun's Heat. Buckingham Island. Seal -holes. Bear-hunt.
Recovery of Sledge. Watercourses. Rounded Pebbles. Surface
Disturbances. Cape Ogle. Water-fowl. Lemmings. Star Bluff.
Return to the Ship.

June 3. THIS being our third visit to this station, it
afforded a good rating position for the chronometers,
and served to secure all our operations easterly : it had
also the advantage of being further tested by a complete
chain of triangulation, carried through Arthur's Strait
and into connection with our first position at Cape Ho-
garth. Quitting this about 6.30 P.M., we pushed for-
ward towards the Hamilton Depot, in order to pick up
the boat and rejoin our reinforcement at Princess Royal
Island. About midnight we reached the boat, lunched,
took out our provision and boat, rebuilt the pile, and
moved forward, clogged a little by the additional labour
required for the ' Hamilton,' but succeeded notwithstand-
ing in gaining our old quarters, under Cape Parker, by
seven A.M. This distance, from the fact of knowing the
best road, and being altogether in better travelling disci-

298 REVISIT MOUNT PARKER. [Jutie,

pline, was now accomplished in twelve hours ; the out-
ward journey occupied thirty-six hours, or three travelling
days ! A bear came boldly down upon us, and probably
would have afforded us fuel and dog's-meat ; but, fortu-
nately for him, my coxswain, when last in chase of the
old lady and her cub, had loaded with snow before the
powder, which was now found useless, and further en-
tailed great difficulty and delay in discharging, reload-
ing, etc., independent of crippling the ramrod. Bruin
made off very leisurely, yet still continued to evince con-
siderable curiosity. Three of our party volunteered to
accompany him, but he was very suspicious, vouchsafing
them very little attention, and merely increasing his pace
from time to time to preserve a dignified distance, which
having attained, he leisurely turned round to scan his
impertinent intruders. As our affairs did not admit of
delay, we were soon en route : on crossing the flats, now
barely skinned with dirty ice, we noticed fragments of
coal, chert, shells, etc., which had been washed up pro-
bably last season.

About seven P.M. on the 4th, the 'Dauntless' and the
'Hamilton' were despatched in advance, our party as-
cending the mount, in order to obtain, if possible, the
bearing, as well as the best route through the off-lying
pack to our new islands. From the summit they were
barely seen, but I had a very clear view of the eastern
boundary of North Cornwall, confirming my idea of its
being an island ; no land intervened between it and the
capped hills of our northern group. Even to have seen
them was satisfactory, for those who did not view them
through the instrument deemed them imaginary. In

I S 53.] PATCHES OF WATER NOTICKD. 299

the north-west direction the sea presented several large
pools and lanes leading towards Table Island and west-
erly ; but this was more especially evident in those
localities where I knew the tide to prevail with peculiar
force. Several snow-buntings and two plovers were
noticed. One or two lumps of inferior coal, jutting out
of the general debris of mud and limestone ; one rocky
clump of clay ironstone, much broken up by frost into
large rhomboidal masses, and some few pieces of selenite
were picked up. One would almost imagine that this
particular mineral had the value of gold ; it was secreted
by the finders, and obtained a variety of names, that
most prevalent was mica or talc. Shortly after mid-
night we moved forward to rejoin the ' Dauntless,' which,
although hampered by the boat, had gained greatly in
advance. The sun was oppressive, and as our men were
much fagged, we pitched, at the usual hour, about half-
way between Cape Parker and Princess Royal Island,
and one mile from the ' Dauntless.' Shortly before noon,
whilst engaged in taking my customary round of angles,
I noticed three dark objects in the field of the telescope,
and that they were in motion on the side of a hill : it
was very soon evident that they were musk-oxen, the first
clear proof which we had of their existing on this side of
the Queen's Channel. I also noticed on the inner end
of Princess Royal Island a cairn and staff, by which I
felt assured that our relief party had arrived, and, curi-
ously enough, to the very day I appointed, although I did
not intend to meet them when I parted with Mr. Allard.
On the 5th, about eight P.M., we moved forward for
the island; the weather hazy and unpromising. Shortly

300 DR. LYALL AND MR. ALLARD JOIN. \Jtttie,

before eleven we noticed a flag on the south beacon, and
a party was discovered advancing to meet vis from that
direction. A little before midnight I had the pleasure
of shaking hands with Dr. Lyall and Mr. Allard. They
had reached the rendezvous, according to arrangement,
the night before, bringing the latest intelligence from
Commander Richards, as well as the missing despatches,
which were found on the second attempt (accompanied
by Dr. Lyall) just where they should have been on the
first visit, had proper vigilance been observed.

After luncheon we moved forward to the north end of
the island, where the other sledges were directed to as-
semble, bringing up the depot. Time being now a valu-
able commodity, I ascended the peak of the island, and
fortunately obtained the most important stations : I also
saw our new islands, and thus I imagined all doubt was
silenced. A much increased cairn was erected, and we
returned to our tents.

The so-termed " despatches" did not contain one line
from the Admiralty ; they were simply service letters or
official returns from Commander Pullen. By this con-
veyance I received details of Commander Inglefield's
proceedings and discoveries in the ' Isabel,' at Whale,
Smith, and Jones's Sounds, and I now regretted that he
had not been able to obtain one satisfactory line to my
eastern headland from that side ; but the cheering intelli-
gence that the Squadron generally were all supposed to
be pursuing satisfactorily, and without obstruction, their
several allotted duties, was matter of